Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - What are the customs of Beijing people?

What are the customs of Beijing people?

The custom of "eating autumn" in Beijing;

Old Beijingers in our 49 cities have the custom of "eating autumn" after autumn, and there is also a folk saying that "beginning of autumn stewed meat". Why eat autumn? This is related to ancestors calling summer a bad season and summer a tiger. Old Beijing has poor sanitation, many diseases, and weak physique after illness. In addition, the summer climate is hot and humid, and people often have symptoms such as chest tightness, weakness of limbs, sweating, listlessness and loss of appetite. , make the human body thinner. The so-called "one summer without illness, three points deficiency", the ancients called these symptoms "bitter summer." There is also a saying in old Beijing that "autumn tonic keeps the disease away in winter". It is for the above reasons that old Beijing has inherited the custom of eating autumn tonic. People of different classes have different ways of eating autumn and old Beijing. Generally, people in the middle and lower classes pay attention to "eating fresh children in autumn". They think that eating new grain and eating new fruits and vegetables is the most nutritious. As the saying goes, "go to the summer to find millet, and the white dew cuts the valley." After autumn, housewives of every household should try early adopters, and often buy white flour made of new corn (that is, corn flour), corn residue, sorghum rice and new wheat, and steam delicious jujube steamed bread, jujube steamed bread, lazy dragon, flower rolls, corn residue porridge and sorghum rice with these new grains for families of all ages to eat. Braised pork, braised fish, stewed chicken and duck and other meat dishes rich in protein are often cooked by wealthy quadrangles after autumn. And some celebrities, literati and artists in old Beijing are very particular about eating autumn, and often take their families or friends to restaurants for dinner. Eat, drink, taste famous dishes or eat Beijing roast duck, barbecue and rinse meat. Some people also have the custom of exchanging gifts with Quanjude roast duck or fruit. These customs of eating autumn and giving gifts were once autumn scenery's sons in old Beijing markets and quadrangles. In addition, autumn is the harvest season of fruits and vegetables in mountain products. Mountain products, such as walnuts, chestnuts, persimmons, apples, Pak Lei, hawthorn, Pinggu or Taolang's jujube, which are abundant in the suburbs of old Beijing, are sold in the old Miao Jing market, the fruit bureau of the market and the hutongs. People often try and store them in advance. Life in Beijing is infinitely better now. People often eat big meat, big fish and big meat in their diet, and they don't lack nutrition and stick on autumn fertilizer. After entering autumn and winter, people need to eat more fruits, vegetables and grains in a balanced diet in order to make people healthier and live longer.

Funeral custom in old Beijing;

Setting of mourning hall and memorial service: the date of mourning after death varies from family to family. In addition to "burying for three to five days every four days" and poor families regardless of time, there are seven days, nine days, eleven days, thirteen days and three days, five seven days and seven seven days (forty-nine days), all of which are three days after three days, and the day before the funeral, and how many tent sutras are read is arbitrary. In the early years, when people died, they rarely used temples to move spirits to do things. They all set up tents in their own homes to do things. On the day of death, on the one hand, people prepare coffins, and on the other hand, they ask people to lay sheds. Scaffolding is a pole, which instantly becomes a balcony. Fighting with porters is a unique skill in Beijing. The materials of sheds are divided according to seasons: there are "warm sheds" and "cloth sheds" in winter; In summer, "gazebo" or "mat shed" is called "glass shed". Formally speaking, the rich house can be built with "ridge shed", "three halls and two rolling sheds" and "one ridge and one flat shed", and the ridge shed can only be used for funerals. Medium-sized families build "flat sheds" and install plain glass. If the inferior family is good, it can build a "arbor", and the inferior family can only build a "curtain". There should be a "platform" in front of undertaker, with two or three partitions. There is a patio on platform 1, and you can walk in three directions: front, left and right. Number two is a little smaller, and number three has a patio, which is only one step away. Poor families have no platform, so they can install railings on the ground. No matter how poor they are, they don't even need railings. For families with status, the coffin is decorated with red brocade.

There are curtains on the left and right sides of the "floor cover", and you can't see the lost daughter from the outside. There is a white cloth coffin, a red brocade chair, a spirit table, a "stuffy lamp" and five offerings in front of the coffin. Qi Ji's family also set up a low table in front of the table, with a "tin drinking pool" on it and a "holding pot" and a "drinking cup" on the left for guests to drink as sacrifices. If the emperor gives wine or the elders give wine, a high coffee table will be set up for drinks. Han people don't set up drinking pools, but decent people set up high coffee tables, put incense burners to burn charcoal in advance, and prepare sandalwood to burn incense for guests. The second kind is to put five sticks of high incense or white incense in the high incense burner inside the five supplies, and paste white paper appropriately. After the guests hold incense, they still plug in the stove. There is a blue cloth mat in the center of the platform, covered with a red carpet, which means that mourners dare not ask the guests to kneel on the mat, but the guests themselves remove the red carpet to show their humility.

The custom of having children in Beijing:

Parenting in old Beijing contains many Manchu customs. In old Beijing, we all know the important position of "descendants of the empress" and "sending the son to the empress" among "nuns". Many families (regardless of Qi Han) worship this empress at home. If there is no child, beg for it. People with children provide it to bless their children's healthy growth. This "empress" was originally from outside Shanhaiguan, and was brought to Beijing by Manchu when she entered Shanhaiguan. Its original name is forifodo omosi mama, which is the "baby-keeping god" in Manchu Sama belief. Mama was originally called Manchu, which means "grandma", that is, grandmother. After entering the customs, it was renamed as "Empress" according to China custom. Maybe the goddess is usually called "Empress" in China. According to the old rules in Beijing, you must "wash three times" three days after giving birth. Old Beijing joked that "people have two or three, wash three first, and then connect three." From the day of washing three, parenting in old Beijing is the custom of Manchu and Chinese living together. Say "hang up" first. You can hang up on the day of washing three, and you can also hang up on the day of the next month (full moon). Since grandma's family (Manchu called her grandmother grandma. There is your mother in a dream of red mansions, that is. Grandma is called the Han nationality in northern China.

Law), relatives can hang up, of course, our elders can also hang up their children. Hanging a thread is hanging a child's neck with blue and white cotton thread. Old Beijing has this trick regardless of the flag. "Xing" actually comes from Manchu customs. Manchu Sama believed in sacrificial rites, such as "changing lanterns for ropes" and "willow branches for happiness". "Line" evolved from "cable". According to the old custom of Manchu, for the sake of children's health, blue and white threads and rags are twisted into "ropes" and hung around the children's necks. Sacrifice to "Mother Frodo" (that is, the aforementioned forifodo omosi mama) and connect it with the sacred board with willow branches. After the sacrifice, remove the rope from the child's neck, put it in the "mother's pocket" and hang it under the Western Wall. This is a pure Manchu custom, which comes from its ancient ancestors. Manchu customs brought this custom to Beijing and became the custom of old Beijing. Moreover, on the day of washing three, boil water with mugwort leaves to bathe the children. At this time, there was the custom of "adding pots". Adding a basin means that when relatives and friends come to congratulate, they put copper coins into a basin for children to bathe in. This is an ancient custom of the Han nationality, but later, on the day when the children of Beijing Banner washed for three days, there was no need to add a pot. Hanging the line and adding the pot shows that Beijing parenting is a combination of Manchu and Chinese. Manchu people don't believe in Buddhism, but they have maintained Sama belief since ancient times. Manchu entered the customs for a long time. In the middle and late Qing Dynasty, Manchu learned some behaviors related to Buddhism from Han people. According to the ancient customs of the Han nationality, it is best to send children who are hard to feed to temples and worship monks as teachers. Although the child is still raised at home, he thinks he has become a monk and is called a "registered monk". Parents give some money to the temple as a thank-you gift every year. It is believed that in this way, the children will not be at home and become monks, and the "three difficulties and eight difficulties" will not infringe on monks, and the children who are difficult to feed will escape the disaster. People call such children "little monks". There are also registered monks who are given dharma names by their Buddhist masters, which is even more Buddhist. When such children grow up, as for the year of marriage, they must be "secular" before they can talk about marriage. How to return to vulgarity? There is a ceremony. When the child becomes an adult, the parents discuss with the old monk to become a monk and set a date. On this day, parents took their children to the temple, first to worship the Buddha, and then to worship the monk and master. A bench was put in front of the temple in advance. After the service, the old monk hit the child with a wooden stick in his hand. The child hurried away and ran out, with the old monk chasing after him. The child ran to the door of the temple and saw a bench blocking the road. The child jumped over the stool and ran out of the temple, and the ceremony was completed. This ceremony is called "jumping over the wall" and this child is called "jumping over the wall monk". As soon as I climbed over the wall, I returned to the customs from the monk. After secularization, you are a layman and can discuss marriage. This is the custom of pure Han nationality. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, the children of Manchu families were spoiled, so many of them went to the temple to register, and later jumped over the wall to return to the common customs. This is true not only for ordinary standard bearers, but also for the royal family. "Grasping Zhou" is an ancient tradition of Cha nationality, but Manchu has no such custom. The original custom of Manchu was to give birth to boys hanging bows and arrows at the door, and at the age of one, they didn't catch anything. At the end of Qing dynasty, Manchu people also followed the customs of Han people and attached importance to Zhou dynasty, but it was slightly different from Han people. Manchu boys grasp Zhou, with small bows and arrows and knives. In short, they have not lost the hunting tradition of their ancestors. The harem worships male prostitutes, and rabbits are regarded as a symbol of reproduction because of their strong reproductive ability. On the fifteenth day of the first month, the whole family bowed down to male prostitutes to help people prosper. But male prostitutes become children's toys after being worshipped. Beijing male prostitute looks funny, and it is difficult to ride a tiger as a military commander. There is Mr. Rabbit in Tianjin, whose shape is much simpler and more like a rabbit. Male prostitutes are unique in Beijing culture.

The custom of Chinese New Year in Beijing:

The New Year customs in Beijing are also different between northern and southern cities. Generally speaking, the culture in the north city is more luxurious and pays more attention to face, while the cultural mentality in the south city is heavier, such as flowers, birds, fish and insects, mostly from the south city. There is a lotus market in the north city, dominated by literati, and an overpass in the south city. People who scold the streets like soldier Huang have become artists, ranking among the eight eccentrics. In the past, when artists from Cheng Nan performed in the North City, they had to change the repertoire to make the content more elegant. From now on, the traditional New Year's Eve dinner in Beijing is unscientific, with a lot of meat, mainly fat meat. Such overeating can easily lead to cholecystitis, which is harmful to the body. But at night, jiaozi, an old Beijinger who is vegetarian, has to make complicated things, such as dicing carrots and frying them with sesame oil, because he has to worship God. Beijing New Year's Eve doesn't have to have fish. Old Beijing is not a fish-producing area, so there are no special rules for eating fish. It is not popular for large families to eat carp and eat the whole body. At the temple fair, most people don't eat braised pork, because it is not "serious meat", but bean juice is eaten by both the court and the people. Drinking bean juice before meals at court is different from that of the poor.

Sample, the two practices are not the same. Wearing an old cotton-padded jacket to wash and dye for the New Year will give children new clothes, but in the past, most people in Beijing were not well off, so they often took off the old cotton-padded jacket, washed it again, dyed it again and sewed it again to be new clothes. It's very cold in winter, and once the clothes are frozen, it's not easy to dry, so it often takes one day to hang the clothes and dry them in the stove at home. In addition, the average family will buy indigo and cook it with clothes. After 30 minutes, they will soak it in hot rice, so that the clothes will be dyed blue again, making the old cloth look the same as the new one, but the dyed cloth will fade easily without washing. Old Beijingers live in bungalows and the heating conditions are not very good. In addition, the roof tiles will be crushed after snowing, and most houses have water leakage, so they must be repaired before the spring, otherwise, once it rains, the house will be in danger of collapse. It is not allowed to repair houses during the Spring Festival in Beijing, and construction can only start after the fifth day of the first month. Especially in areas where houses are relatively simple, such as Chongwen, the custom of "five broken houses and one repaired house" has gradually taken shape. Playing lion dance instead of dragon dance was not allowed in Beijing in the past, because dragons represented imperial power, and only eunuchs in the court could dance for the emperor, and they had to be pardoned in advance. Dancing in the palace is a "fire dragon", which is transparent and has built-in lighted oil lamps. It is spectacular at dusk or at night. Lion dance is more common in Beijing, but unlike Nanshi, Beijing lion dance doesn't have many acrobatic skills, and mainly pays attention to majesty. At first, it was simple. That's a piece of cloth. Lion's head is made of mud or paper pulp. It's very ugly, almost bare. Southern lion is relatively fine, but its shape is more like a cat, not as powerful as a lion.

The Custom Taboos of New Year in Old Beijing

On the first day of the first month: married daughters are not allowed to go back to their parents' homes, and they are not allowed to eat porridge (or they will encounter heavy rain when they go out), meat and medicines, and avoid breaking furniture (including fragile items such as plates, bowls and wine sets), or they will say "Peace through the years". In addition, you can't take a nap during the day. You can't say anything unlucky on the first day. If the child says it, you can wipe your mouth with toilet paper, which means that the child's mouth is as useless as his ass.

On the second day of the first month: don't say "don't" to the God of Wealth, but say "yes".

On the third day of the first month: no nap.

The fourth day of the first month: no going out. It is said that the kitchen god came to audit the accounts and couldn't get out.

On the fifth day of the first month: avoid visiting relatives and friends, eating lotus roots and combing your hair.

On the seventh day of the first month, it is called "Men's Day". It is forbidden to move needles and thread or hit children.

The eighth day of the first month is called "Valley Day". On the harvest day, the annual leave is over, and everyone comes to work to send auspicious words to each other. Good luck and congratulations on making a fortune.

Avoid killing: Han Dong Fang Shuo's "The Challenge Book" said: "On the eighth day after one year old, a chicken, a dog, a pig, a sheep, a cow, a horse, a man and a valley. Mr. Tiandi is a chicken, a dog, a pig, a sheep, a cow, a horse and a stranger. Therefore, there is a folk saying that "no chicken, no dog, no pig, no sheep, no cow, no horse is not punished".

Exquisite dining table in old Beijing:

The culture on the dining table is commonly known as "drinking culture". In old Beijing, under the influence of society, economy, habits and environment, different families have formed their own dining table culture. Many families have "family banquet", "guest banquet" and "informal banquet" in the way of dining-family banquet refers to the banquet set by families for their own festivals and various festive activities; A guest banquet is a banquet for relatives and friends; It's common to have a common meal. All kinds of etiquette at the dinner table in old Beijing are very particular, which gradually reflects the values of old Beijing in the long years, and consciously or unconsciously constructs a dinner table culture with "courtesy", "filial piety", "virtue" and "teaching" as its contents. "Li" refers to the etiquette and etiquette of drinking. It reflects the etiquette, ceremony and personal courtesy requirements formed by family moral concepts and customs. Family banquets and informal banquets should be based on "long" (parents and elders), and guest banquets should be based on "guests". So many rules have been formed to bind family members, especially children. There are formal ceremonies and waiting ceremonies. Formal ceremony refers to the ceremony embodied in the form and atmosphere of etiquette, such as the choice of banquet place, the grade of etiquette, the creation of environment, the preparation of utensils, etc., all of which should reflect a kind of respect for guests. Ceremony refers to the etiquette of entertaining and serving guests. For example, the seating arrangement of banquets is based on the principle of seniority, respect from teachers and respect from afar, that is, the seating is arranged according to seniority, the tutor is given priority, the relatives and friends from afar are given priority, and the relatives and friends from poor families are given special care. The host should spend more time communicating with them, toast more and consciously introduce their "unique skills" to the guests. At the same time, the housekeeper and servants are strictly required not to treat these people ill. Although every banquet depends on the identity of the guests and the characteristics of etiquette and customs, there are differences in the choice of dishes, quality grades and restaurants, but guests must never be allowed to pick out "no" Pay attention to etiquette in the whole process of greeting, toasting, talking, dining and farewell. Before the banquet begins, the host should introduce the important guests to everyone and make a concise and enthusiastic toast; When opening a banquet, the host should personally pour the wine and propose a toast to the elders and guests in order, which cannot be forced; Take the initiative to pour wine for the guests who can't drink well and send a message to the guests.

Meaning; When providing food to guests, we should pay attention to the eating habits of guests, not many times and not much quantity, otherwise it will embarrass guests; The host should pay attention to the universality of mutual communication during the dinner, not to be hot and cold, and if there are female guests, pay more attention to the content of the conversation and respect for the female guests; The host can't put down the dishes and chopsticks in front of the guests, and can't leave the banquet before the guests say they have a good meal; The host should accompany the guest of honor, rinse his mouth and wash his hands before going to another seat for tea. When cooking in a big family, the chef is required not to have food stains around the plate when serving. When serving, he should hold the plates and bowls with both hands, and don't pick the edges of the plates and bowls with his fingers. Fill rice and soup, not too full when pouring tea, but full when pouring wine, but don't overflow; The action of pouring tea should be standardized. It is forbidden to buckle the bowl cover on the table with the teapot mouth facing the guests. Pour tea and step back before turning away; When lighting a cigarette for a guest, you should put it on a plate. Don't pass cigarettes, light a few people with matches, blow out matches with your mouth, throw away match stalks at will, sweep the floor and dust the table in front of guests, especially don't spill tea leaves on the ground. In addition, in front of the guests, the host can't reprimand the children and servants; If the host has an argument with the guest's children, the host should take his children away. No matter who is right or wrong, he should apologize to the other party, but he can't teach his children in front of the guests, otherwise the guests will feel uncomfortable. Children are generally not allowed to attend banquets. I remember when I was a child, I asked my children to be polite, polite and educated. There are three things that are not allowed: no noise and chopsticks knocking on the table, no smacking, no false respect. The second grandma said that it was disgusting to hear squeaking while eating, and it was unbearable to show humility while eating. And let the child who coughs and burps continuously take the initiative to get off the table. Don't drag chairs and stools to avoid making harsh sounds. This is the requirement of silence; Second, it is forbidden to "talk". Children are not allowed to hold food first without their elders moving chopsticks. They are not allowed to put anything in their mouths. They are not allowed to wolf down their food. They are not allowed to stand up and take food that they can't reach. They are not allowed to use chopsticks to pick and rummage things on the plate. They are not allowed to stare at the food on the table while eating. They are not allowed to point at others with chopsticks. They are not allowed to throw things they don't like, and their mouths are dirty. The most taboo is that children directly insert chopsticks into their rice bowls; Third, children are absolutely not allowed to drink. At that time, the two grandmothers liked to play with the children, play some games at the dinner table, and give a performance if they lost. After dinner, they also want to show the children whose rice bowl and desktop are the cleanest, and the warm atmosphere at the dinner is very strong. The "filial piety" family banquet pays attention to respecting the elderly and loving filial piety. When I was a child, grandma and grandma sat in the upper position. Because my third grandmother is paralyzed, she can't attend, but she should leave a place to show her position in the family. When the old woman said "Come and sit", everyone sat down in the order of ranking, and the younger children had to go to another table for dinner. Several aunts and my mother can only stand behind their families, serving food, wine, tea and towels. At every family dinner, the two grandmothers will order their favorite dishes for their daughter-in-law to reward their daily hard work, which they call reward dishes at family dinners. Grandma is kind and dignified. At the dinner table, everyone should observe the mood of the two old ladies. When you are in a bad mood, you must act according to the rules. We must toast and flatter, we must use different words, and we can't favor one over the other, so everyone is very cautious. When in a good mood, parents also talk and laugh, and lesbians often praise each other's children. Grandma will say at this time: "Everyone is just playing together. Why are you still so disciplined?" At this time, everyone will relax and the atmosphere will be harmonious and happy. Adults will also take their children to the main table to greet the elderly. My sister will please the old man and take out a few peanut beans or candy bars from her pocket and stuff them into his hand. The two parents were very happy and full of praise for their granddaughter. Second grandma is more casual. She would go to the children's table in Doby and ask them to order food and feed it to her mouth. The children are happy, too. Everyone is enjoying family happiness in a positive and harmonious atmosphere. This kind of "filial piety" is not only the respect and respect of the younger generation to the older generation, but also the care of the older generation to the younger generation. Therefore, the younger generation will respect their elders more, be more filial to the elderly, and cast a sincere filial piety in everyone's heart. "Virtue" is a kind of conduct, and family drinking requires "concession, moderation and frugality". "Let" is to ask everyone to be humble to each other, not to rush to eat delicious food, to let others eat first, even if they all eat up, there can be no resentment, to be the first; "Degree" requires moderate eating and drinking, no overeating, and no persuasion.

Degrees are intoxicating. "Thrift" means to be thrifty and not to waste, especially to ask children not to waste food. The two grandmothers often told the banquet not to be extravagant. After the banquet, everyone should take home the dishes that have not been touched by chopsticks or served on the table. "Teaching" means family education in drinking. Through example, I inherited the old rules and customs of my family. When having dinner with a tutor, grandma always asks several teachers to "give lectures" to her children and put forward new requirements for them according to social fashion. When I see bad phenomena, I will give them some suggestions to let the children know what to do and what not to do. Influenced by courtesy, filial piety, morality and teaching, children have developed good eating habits, and then formed a table culture that attaches importance to form, psychology, behavior and inheritance, which is also a microcosm of old Beijing culture. There is a folk saying in old Beijing: "The head is on the jiaozi, and the pancakes are on the eggs." It's about the food folk custom that every family in old Beijing abides by for a few days. Why are there such dietary customs and sayings? It is said that it was related to the solar terms and the production technology of vegetable farmers at that time: agriculture was backward, there were no greenhouse facilities, and there were no more summer vegetables for the people to eat. When the summer solstice drops a few volts, it is the time when the vegetables are green and yellow, and because the rainy days in old Beijing are extremely hot, people sweating all want to eat simple, light and refreshing meals at this time, so the custom of eating jiaozi, noodles and pancakes on rainy days is derived. Jiaozi, with a history of 1000 years, was originally called "wonton" in jiaozi. According to historical records, Guangya, written by wei ren Zhang Yi in the Three Kingdoms period, described a kind of wonton food: "Today, wonton is shaped like a crescent moon, which is universal in the world." In recent years, more than a dozen jiaozi have been found in a wooden bowl unearthed from a Tang Dynasty tomb in Turpan, whose shape is exactly the same as that of jiaozi now. Eating jiaozi in the Qing Dynasty was called cooking cakes. "Yanjing Years Old" said: "On the first day of each session, no matter rich or poor, cakes were cooked with white flour, which is called cloud cooking cakes." The above shows that old Beijingers have a long history of eating jiaozi. Beijingers love to eat jiaozi all year round. In Futian, the varieties and fillings of jiaozi are also varied, including boiled jiaozi, instant noodles jiaozi, fried jiaozi and fried jiaozi. Meatballs with meat stuffing, pumpkins, pumpkins or zucchini mixed with meat, leek stuffing all year round, and jiaozi stuffed with fresh lotus root, fungus, eggs and mushrooms. When I was a child, my family also liked the fried dumpling jiaozi with wax gourd stuffing. Source: Beijing Evening News jiaozi is also called "Fu (Fu) Tie" or "Fu (Fu) Tie" jiaozi. "Fu" and "Fu" are homophonic, meaning auspicious and rich. In the old society, Beijingers should bring gifts when visiting relatives and friends, and pay attention to giving "eight Beijing pieces", namely "big eight pieces" and "small eight pieces". This was originally an essential gift and decoration for the wedding and funeral ceremony and daily life of the royal family in the Qing Dynasty. Later, the formula was spread from the royal chef to the people. Its main ingredients are refined white flour, sugar, lard, honey and various fruit seeds. The so-called "eight pieces", that is, eight kinds of snacks, generally have sesame cakes, jujube flowers, roll cakes, and some are engraved with different words such as blessing, luck, longevity and happiness. There are round, peach, square and so on. They are packed in a rectangular cardboard box. "Little People" is in duplicate, and sixteen pieces are packed in a carton. In the past, when my daughter went back to her parents' home to pay a New Year call to her elders, I always went to the pastry shop to buy a box of eight big ones in my hand, which was generous and beautiful. Later, Beijingers only needed to bring a paper box filled with all kinds of cakes, or a small wicker basket filled with all kinds of seasonal fruits and cover it with a piece of red paper to visit relatives and friends. When there are guests at home, it is extremely impolite to wash the tea set, make new tea and pour old tea for the guests. Pay attention to "tea should be half full of wine." You can't fill the cup with tea, but 70% can, otherwise it is disrespectful to the guests. And when pouring tea, the spout should not be pointed at the guests. In the past, when a large family stayed guests for dinner, they usually went to restaurants to ask for food. Before long, the waiter brought it by car. The food is still hot because of the good heat preservation. When guests come, they have to eat in the restaurant. In the past, officials were entertained by banquets, group dinners or people they met for the first time. You don't have to go to a big restaurant to pay for the whole table (you can be informal if you are a close friend). The host will arrive first to welcome the guests. The guests came to offer tea and cigarettes, and sat around with them. All the guests were seated. The order is left first and then right. There are three seats on the left of the upper seat, four seats on the right of the two seats, and so on. The host opposite the first seat raised his glass and offered him a drink. The guests stood up, raised their glasses, took their seats, and drank and ate. Serve cold meat dishes first, then hot meat dishes, and finally serve the most expensive Lai dishes. As the saying goes, "pigeon eggs stewed with bird's nest and shark's fin, full of snacks and fruits, and stewed vegetables with fish, board and duck soup sauce." As soon as this dish is served, it is the last meal. All dishes are suitable for drinking, but you can't eat wine on an empty stomach. You should bring snacks when you come to Shanghai. What food to eat and what snacks to go with. Every time I enter a dish, the host will raise a glass to persuade me to drink and raise chopsticks for dinner. Drinking, guessing or giving orders during the dinner. Instead of drinking tea, the guest thanked the host and left. Generally speaking, inviting guests to eat noodles (Lamian Noodles or fishing noodles) is to show that they can stay for a long time. If a guest lives in the host's house, the host must treat the guest to jiaozi to show his enthusiasm.