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On China's historical period of aquatic processing and preservation of this field, previous scholars involved relatively little, in addition to the general history of fisheries works in the relevant chapter and section of the discussion [1], the topic of the exposition of the more involved in the chilled anchovies, etc., dedicated to the period of the Ming and Qing dynasties aquatic processing and preservation of the relatively rare. In fact, due to the Ming and Qing dynasties in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in the waters of the flourishing fisheries production, and fish such as fresh is very easy to corruption, so the aquatic products processing industry is quite developed, processing a variety of processing methods, processing a huge number. This paper is intended to explore this issue. Ancient ice storage technology, although the application of very early, but it is difficult to popularize in fisheries production. Autumn fish fat, just when the fishing season, the number of catches is very large, not into the trade market, not consumed in a timely manner, such as fresh fish without processing is very susceptible to spoilage. Our people have long grasped the simple fish processing technology, such as fish salted, or fresh fish into dry fish storage, "abalone restaurant" that is salted fish processing workshop. Development to the Ming Dynasty, due to the official attention to the fisheries industry, fisheries production has developed greatly, the number of processed aquatic products has also greatly increased, the quality is getting better and better, aquatic processing technology tends to be diversified, refined, beverage processing technology is more colorful and this is evident from the official levy of the fish class in the name, in addition to the fish class of money and silver levy, there are also dried fish, fish oil, fish gland gum, fish preserved in various colors, fish preserved peppers and spices, such as the color of the levy. The signs. By the late Qing Dynasty, the cold storage and preservation of fishery products was gradually popularized, especially after the ice factory gradually increased, and the cold storage method, which was originally used only for paying tribute to the royal family, was gradually promoted. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, aquatic products canning technology was introduced from overseas. In addition, people to non-food by-products are also processed and utilized to make the best use of things. A traditional processing 1. pickled, bad system of pickled fish is mainly preserved fish, preserved fish production has a very long history. The production of preserved fish and fish sauce and other methods early in the "qimin jiuju", to the Song Dynasty technology is higher. According to contain jade plate preserved fish (i.e. koji preserved fish), sturgeon preserved fish, lotus bag preserved fish, silverfish preserved fish, crab preserved fish and so on more than ten kinds. Southern people to fish for preserved fish skill is very high, there are "after ten years and not bad. The longer the preserved fish is stored, the better the quality and the more it is treasured. Different processing methods of different products, such as rice preserved fish, wrapped preserved fish, lotus leaf preserved fish and so on. According to zhou zhi fei "ridge outside the answer" volume six records, the best preserved fish, choose what kind of raw materials, all have to pay attention to, sealing method and now pickles are very similar to pickled vegetables. Ming and qing dynasties in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River are prevalent in the production of preserved fish, such as the lakes and GuangZhou area, anhui anqing area and the taihu lake basin have production. According to historical records, the Ming dynasty hu guang area also specializes in fish preserved fish processing professional craftsmen - preserved fish households. Lake wide each year to the imperial court tribute to a variety of fish processing specialties such as sturgeon preserved fish, koji preserved fish, carp preserved fish, preserved fish, sauce a few small barrels of preserved fish, valuation of how much silver, plus the barrel cabinet objects, hoops barrels of water bamboo, the commission of the official panga, preserved fish household panga silver, etc. ***331 two, the passing of a year to commission the head of the official member of a first year in April to Lee, such as the law of the building, the Hou the next year, led by the "preserved fish household two name "into the Beijing tribute [2]. It can be seen that there are not a few such preserved fish households in the water towns of Hunan and Guangdong, and those who go to Beijing with them to offer their skills are among the most skillful in their craftsmanship. Lake and Guangdong area since the Chenghua years began to tribute to the preserved fish, and then preserved fish tribute of the levy of the end of the Ming generation is not a little wide, the fishermen's burden is getting heavier and heavier, this is in the second chapter and the eighth chapter are mentioned, the latter especially have detailed, this is not to repeat. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the production process of preserved fish was more refined than before. Such as Taihu Lake area, the production of preserved fish, according to the Republic of China "Wu County" Volume 51 "two" transcription of "CaiKuanFu time words" cloud: "WuZhong for preserved fish, more on the creek pool in the lotus leaf packet for the after a few days to take food, than in the bottle in the smell of the special wonderful". The former record is also contained, "the countryside take big fish cut into pieces, with rice chips, lotus leaves, three number of heavy package, known as the lotus bag". But this method is not directly in the lotus pond production. Occasionally, there are also used for preserved meat, directly in the lotus pond with the pond lotus leaves wrapped, "a few moments for delicacies"; but because "the lotus leaves are vicious and greasy, more can harm the lotus". Historical records of fish preserved in red yeast and other production of preserved fish, such as the Wuchang area of preserved fish, the system "to fish, or mixed with rooibos, or mixed with red yeast" [3]. Another example is the Anqing region of preserved fish "to red wine brewed, can be eaten raw" [4]. The middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the production of preserved fish, the raw materials used more sturgeon. This is mainly because the sturgeon bone crunchy, tender meat, the most suitable for making preserved fish, it is chosen. Qing Kangxi Wu County, Shen Chaochu has "Remembering Jiangnan" word cloud: "Suzhou good, dense wax drag oil sturgeon bone preserved fish." Another example is the Kangxi fourteen year "Anqing Fu Zhi" Volume 5 "Products" records, "Acipenser resembles a dragon, more than ten feet long, the big one more than a thousand pounds. Jiangdong call for sturgeon, also known as kingfish ...... can be preserved, bone crunchy, skin is also fat"; the region's "goods class" that is, the production of goods in the category of preserved fish, "Waining with sturgeon, Tongcheng with The preserved fish in this region is "goods type", i.e., among the commodities produced, there is preserved fish. Cured fish in addition to the above production process is more complex preserved fish, there is a simpler direct salt storage method of preserved fish. Salt storage method can be divided into two, one for the brine method, that is, fish impregnated with salt water, in order to prevent corrosion; another for the salt method, that is, with salt all over the fish body, and then heavily stacked in the barrels and other containers in the apparatus, containers also spread the bottom of the salt. The latter method of preservation for a longer period of time. The fish stored in these two methods maintain a fairly salty flavor in the fish. It can be said that the salt storage method of preserving fish is one of the most commonly used methods, because it is simple to make and easy to use. However, its preservation time is not as long as the preserved fish, but preserved fish preservation must be sealed, otherwise easy to change flavor. 2. dry system will be made into dried fish to long-term collection is a very common, widely used traditional processing methods, its production history has been very long. As early as in the Shang and Zhou Dynasties that there is this fish processing methods, dried fish called fish, or called fish, fish wax. The villages in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River still adopt this processing method. Drying method according to drying heat source can be divided into drying and fumigation system of two kinds, "drying method, or with the sun or fire baking, make sure that the water in the body of the fish completely evaporated"; according to whether the first salted and can be divided into the dry and salt dry two kinds of dry, "its use of fresh water after washing and drying is said to be vegetative dry products, the body of the fish with water boiled, then Drying is said to boil dry products, by salt water once the impregnation, and then wash with fresh water and dry is said to salt dry products "[5]. Salt the body of the fish and dry the water it contains are to prevent the invasion of bacteria and make the fish rotting and difficult to eat. Air-drying method: Generally speaking, in the summer and fall seasons when the temperature is high and the sun is abundant, the air-drying method is often used to make dried fish. Therefore, all kinds of fish that are caught during the summer and fall seasons are also processed by this method. The dried fish drying method is mostly used in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, such as the two lakes plains of Hunan and Guangdong, the plains of Poyang Lake in Jiangxi Province, the plains along the river in Anhui Province, and the Taihu Lake Basin of the Yangtze River delta, etc. Dried fish are produced in these places, but the scale of the fish drying is different, and the output is not the same. In the Ming Dynasty, Changde Province in Hunan Province "had more dried fish. Salt fish day dry, goods in all directions, quite a treasure. Counties are out, and Yuanjiang especially "[6], it can be seen, the process is first coated with salt, and then in the sun to dry. Another example is the Ming Dynasty Yuezhou Huarong County processing dried fish, "merchants baking exposure, trade throughout the Jianghuai between" [7], it can be seen that the processing technology is both smoked, but also with the sun. This two examples can be seen in Yuezhou, Changde, Hubei Province, the number of dry fish processing products. Not only the two provinces, Hubei and other provinces and states must be the same, such as in Hubei there are a large number of small and medium-sized shallow lakes, fish-rich province, the scale of its dry fish production when compared to Hunan Yuezhou, Changde and other provinces and states more. Such as Wuchang County, "there are white fish, that is, Yang (), white meat can be cake" [8], that is, after removing the fish spines pressed and dried into fish cakes. In Anqing Susong area, "silverfish a speciality of my euphonium, after catching to sunlight drying clean, with a cloth bag device. ...... In addition, if the shrimp a kind of also produced a lot of shrimp, shrimp take fresh shrimp steamed and boiled spinning dry to remove the armor to store the meat that is called shrimp", the production of dried silverfish and shrimp are the use of sunlight drying; "the merchants selling dried fish will first buy the fresh fish ", and then "salted through the salt water, on the sunlight drying" [9], the business of dry fish trafficking merchants also use drying method to produce dried fish trafficking. Taihu Lake area also used sunlight drying silverfish, dried crabs, mantis seeds and so on. Tongzhi "Suzhou Prefecture" Volume 20 "Products" records: "fish, out of Lake Taihu, a swordfish, commonly called the knife crabs, also known as the lake crabs, different from the production of the river is also out of Changshu seaways are particularly large, April and May to take the seeds of the drying of the name of the praying mantis son; the small one is said to be yellow-tailed rainbow fish, dried fish of the can be far away; silverfish, out of Lake Taihu, the color of the white, no scales, dried fish of the can be far away". The so-called "fish", that is, pressed and dried. Fish eggs, also known as fish roe, the so-called mantis son of crabs into the sun-dried roe. Another example is the "Taihu Lake Preparatory Examination", Volume 6, "Products", which records: "The fish (鮆鱼), a cutlass fish, commonly known as the knife crabs, also known as the lake crabs, different from the river production; a small one is known as the plum crabs, which is dried by fishermen to be sold"; and "The silver fish, dried by the fish, can lead to the distance". The two records are generally similar, which means that the whole Taihu Lake area is basically in this situation. The Japanese Yamamoto Tianfang 1885 written in the "Qing aquatic discovery of fresh" recorded: "crabs in the Yangtze River in Jiangsu Province, an annual output of five million pounds, dried crabs annual output of about 150,000 pounds of transportation and marketing all over the world". In the coastal Chuansha area, "dried fish are also dried with salt" and "can be used for food" [10]. Drying fish drying in addition to the above first coated with salt, and then the use of sunlight drying salt drying products, there is no salt to wipe and direct sun drying. According to Zhang Lei "Ming Road Magazine" records, as early as the Song Dynasty, in Hanyang Wuchang area that there is a "light fish", the method will be a number of thousands of fish cut open, do not add salt, exposed to the sun on the river bank, dry to the thing pressed as fish carried to Jiangxi Province for sale. Raozhou, Guangxin and other places "especially important", "although the stench of rot and abominable and even better", "if the food and drink offerings, no light fish is not a great gift. A boat "light fish, the value of hundreds of thousands". This is the situation in the Song Dynasty, it is estimated that the Ming and Qing Dynasties, this product is still circulating. Another example is in the Su Song area of Anqing, "If crabs and leaning fish are also dried for sale, but do not need to be salted; crabs and leaning fish are produced in the summer months, so they are dried in the evening when they come out of the water, and those who are trafficked out of the area every year are also known as the bulk of the fish" [11]. The production of dried crabs, by the dried fish, that is, to take full advantage of the strong summer sunlight and rapid steam-drying of the fish body water, saving the first salt pickling process, but also to make the dried fish products of more varied varieties. Fumigation method: in the lower temperatures of winter and rainy, humid air in the spring, the capture of fish has no conditions to use the drying method. In this case, people will use the fumigation method of processing dried fish, that is, the use of smoke or fire roasting method of the fish body contains moisture vaporization. Such as the aforementioned Ming Dynasty Yuezhou Huarong County processing dried fish, "businessmen baking exposure", the processing technology will be both smoked, and sun. Lavender products and drying products of the flavor is completely different from each other, around the lavender products and have their own local characteristics. However, in comparison, due to the limitations of the conditions, the use of artificial smoke or fire roasting of the scale of the lavender system to be much smaller than the use of natural daylight anywhere, anytime the drying method of drying, the former's output is also much lower than the latter. However, as the saying goes, "Rare is precious", but its production is less, it is more precious. 3. By-products processing and utilization in addition to aquatic products for food processing, people also carry out some by-products processing and utilization, such as refining fish oil, processing of swim bladder glue, with shellfish shells fertilizer and so on. The refining of fish oil for lamp burning was used in ancient times, such as the previously quoted poem of the Ming people, "eight-foot-long pole with a large net, the front boat called the back boat should. Fish for rice and wine, more fish oil for night light" [12]. Another example is "yellow catfish and catfish intestine and belly fat, and can take the intestine to boil oil for lamps, known as fish oil" [13]. This is for the fishermen to take full advantage of the catch, local materials processing by-products for daily needs of the example. People also used swim bladder to process swim bladder glue or fish line glue at an early stage in history. Example of processing swim bladder glue: "The swim bladder in the belly of a fish can be used as glue, which is called big glue. Tang Zhang Yanyuan Yun Wuzhong swim bladder rubber picking chapter of the use, cover the ancient painters to take this "[14]. Visible, as late as the Tang Dynasty, people are known to process swim bladder into swim bladder rubber production "采章", that is, similar to the modern seal, the painter that is useful for this swim bladder rubber chapter. In the previous chapters concerning the fishery economy, it was discussed that most of the fish lessons collected in various regions had the levy of fish line glue, which can be seen in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River where the processing of swim bladders into fish line glue was extremely common, and the government designated it as a kind of amount of levy, and most of the levy of the original color. It is clearly recorded in the Wanli "Daming Huidian" that the official levy of fish line glue is for shipbuilding, i.e., as a kind of adhesive. The production of shrimp mentioned above is the raw shrimp steamed and sun-dried to remove the armor and become, the peeled shrimp armor, people also be recycled, "where the dry shrimp to go to the armor and can be purchased for the dung field, shrimp armor is also known as shrimp chaff" [15]. Shrimp and crab and other aquatic shells and nails are rich in phosphorus, therefore, the shells can be crushed and used to fertilize the field, is a good phosphorus fertilizer. Even after pickled fish left brine, people can do waste utilization, such as "pickled fish water is called drop of brine, can help cooking, and can be used for the production of soy food" [16]. What's more, in the Ming and Qing dynasties, salt is extremely valuable, the official tax on salt is very heavy, people can not easily discard the water can be further utilized drop of brine. [1] Cong Ziming, Li Ting, edited by China Fisheries History, China Science and Technology Press, published in 1993. [2] Wanli "hukuang general record" volume 21 "tribute to the record a". [3] Guangxu "wuchang county" vol. 3 "property". [4] fourteenth year of the Kangxi "Anqingfu Zhi" Volume 5 "goods". [5] Republic of China "Baoshan County renewed Zhi" Volume 6 "industry Zhi - fisheries". [6] Jiajing changde fu zhi [Changde prefecture zhi] vol. 8 [food and goods zhi - products]. [7] Longqing "yuezhoufu zhi" vol. 11 "food and goods kao". [8] Guangxu "wuchang county" vol. 3 "products". [9] Republic of Su Song County Records, Volume 18, Industry - Fisheries. [10] Republic of China, Chuansha County Records, Volume 5, Industry - Fisheries and Forestry. [11] Republic of Su Song County Records, Volume 18, "Industrial Records - Fisheries". [12] (Ming) Tang Zhi-chun, Tang Yu-shi ji, Volume 1, Fishermen on the Huai. Siku 1236-528 (Preceded by the preface of the volume, followed by the preface of the page, the same below.) [13] Republic of China, Su Song County Records, Volume 18, Industrial Records - Fisheries. [14] Tongzhi "Suzhou prefecture records" Volume 20 "property". [15] Republic of China "Su Song County Records" Volume 18 "Industrial Records - Fisheries". [16] Republic of Su Song County Records, Volume 18 "industry - fisheries". Two cold storage and canning 1. cold storage cold storage, ice storage, ice storage method is the most simple, that is, the fresh fish buried in natural ice or artificial ice, used to preserve the freshness of fish for a short period of time. Ice storage method to keep fish fresh technology applied very early, but because of ice storage technology is more complex, in a longer period of time, the scale of its great limitations, chilled fish are mostly limited to slave owners, nobles to enjoy, or tribute to the Royal Tribute, and less applied to large-scale fisheries production. Ming and Qing dynasties have appeared larger-scale professional ice factory. Ming Wang Griddle revised "Zhengde Gusu Zhi" in the "three volts on the market to sell cold ice," the words, it can be seen in Suzhou in the Ming Dynasty has a professional ice factory. Qing Shen Deqian revised "Yuanhe County Records" records: "Ice manhole outside the turnip gate, set up manhole twenty-four ...... every severe cold, bailing water stored in the swings field. Ice is hard, stored in the manhole, in the summer need to protect the fish fresh, and to cleanse the summer heat". You mourned made "ice manhole song" cloud, "turnip creek outside the door twenty-four, year after year, especially for seafood place", its poem further explains that the professional ice factory is mainly for marine fisheries preservation of freshness organized. Kangxi twenty-third year "Jiangnan Tongzhi" records: Songjiang Province, "every early summer, Jia people driving huge boats, the group of hundreds of calls for noise net to take" yellowtail, are "first in Suzhou Ice Plant City Ice to wait". Qing Dynasty, the coastal area to consume chilled yellowtail has become a habit and hobby. Qing Kangxi Wu County, Shen Chaochu "Memories of Jiangnan" word describes the pomp and circumstance of eating fresh ice: "Suzhou is good, summer food ice fresh, stone head with yellow lotus leaves wrapped, shad like snow willow through, everywhere to receive fresh boat." Small boat inserted triangular red flag, sounding the gong market, said peddling fresh ice, Wu custom most Shang this fish, every taste of new, not hesitate to pay a heavy price, so there is a classic account to buy yellowtail proverb. Tongzhi "suzhou prefecture" volume 20 "products" records, wu has a proverb "neem flowers bloom stone head to come, the bamboo was floss dance three Taiwan", said the sale of winter tools to buy fish. [1] Ming and Qing Dynasties, a huge scale of shad tribute, but also with ice long-distance escort transportation. To this end, in nanjing yanziji built royal specialized ice cellar and fish factory. Land transportation, according to 15 kilometers a stop, by more than 3,000 horseback riding relay relay transmission, more than 1,250 kilometers from the Yangtze River to Beijing, limited to 22 (44 hours) hours to deliver. Preservation of freshness is the way by end with a lead box, filled with ice in the middle, splashed with thick oil sealing, and then covered with Ruo leaves. Waterway, the fast boat day and night along the canal north, the ship carries ice escort, along the way and has an ice library, a constant supply of ice, to ensure that the tribute to the capital is still very fresh. Ming and Qing dynasties have appeared larger-scale professional ice plant, but before the late Qing Dynasty, its application in fisheries production is still not common. Professional ice plant is still not large-scale general construction, chilled fish due to higher costs, less expensive and less expensive, the above Wu sold winter tools to buy yellowtail that is a proof. Another example is the Tongzhi "Suzhou Prefecture," Volume 20, "Products" recorded: "Shishou fish, commonly known as the yellowtail. Today, only out of the sea, the flavor is absolutely precious, the beginning of summer is to, Wu people neem flower time for the wait. At this time has been gradually hot, fish more meat defeat gas odor, Wu people are accustomed to see, so there is to endure the stink of eating stone head of ridicule. Twenty years to the coastal people began to hide ice, all the ice to raise fish is not defeated". It can be seen, in the Qing dynasty before the Daoguang, the coastal ice fish farmers are still few; to Xianfeng, Tongzhi years, the catch of ice preservation method began to flourish. Since then, the ice plant set up more and more, the region is gradually popularized and popularized. Republic of China "Chuansha County Records" Volume 5 "Industry - Fisheries and Forestry," a record clearly reflects the process of change, the record cloud: "seafood caught in recent years are made of ice, in order to be transported to distant ports ....... Ice plant, the summer catch of fresh fish, must be made of ice. To because of the purchase from Shanghai, special form of inconvenience. Since the first year of Xuantong in the Qing Dynasty, Zhou Lanchun and other set of shares, in the eight groups of North A Bailong Harbor South, rented land to build an ice plant. In the past few years, the sale of a wide range of fishing boats in the Hengsha, more to buy and use, and make a lot of money. In the fourth year of the Republic of China, some people set up a factory to seek expansion of business. In September of the eleventh year, the people of the eupharmonic family Zeng, etc., and in the eight groups of South Sanjia Beach, shares of the ice factory, submitted to the county governor Yan Sen show protection." From this paragraph of historical data can be drawn the following conclusions, first, the late Qing dynasty, the coastal areas of the summer marine fisheries production of the catch has been mostly used to ice preservation; second, in the first year of the Qing dynasty Xuantong years ago, the coastal Chuansha and other areas with ice to hide the fish are mostly still have to be purchased from the Shanghai town of Shanghai; third, since the first year of the Qing dynasty Xuantong years, the coast around the construction of ice plants, no longer need to buy from Shanghai, and its scale of operation Expanding trend, the governance of the ice plant is also increasingly tight. Above is the general development process of aquatic products ice preservation, in short, until the late Qing Dynasty, ice preservation in fisheries production to get large-scale application. 2. canned aquatic products canned processing method of the application of the above processing methods are late, can be said to be a kind of "berries", that is, for the introduction of overseas processing technology. As late as the late Qing Dynasty, aquatic products canned processing is still less, such as coastal Chuansha area "manufacturing dried fish, but also the first salt sun, and no canning, can be used for food needs" [2]. But with the opening of the door and gradually into the lives of the people of China, according to the Republic of China "Baoshan County and then continue to record" Volume 6 "industry - fisheries" records, "cans of storage method is very much, applicable to the national hobby of fish cans of about three kinds of"; one of them is the system of water, that is, the treatment of raw fish into the jar after the appropriate, injected into the water sealing, heating and system; The second is seasoning system, the method will be caught with soy sauce, sugar, spices, etc., first cooked in the can, heat sterilization and become; the third is the fumigation system, the method will be the fish first appropriate conditioning, and then by the oil and fumigation smoke work, and then seal the cans made. With the first method of production of canned fish can be used as raw materials for cooking in the kitchen, with the latter two methods of production of finished products for the family travel at any time to take, without further seasoning. [1] See Cong Ziming and Li Ting, editors, A History of Chinese Fisheries, p. 67. [2] Republic of China, Chuansha County Records, Volume 5, Industry - Fisheries and Forestry. The history of aquatic food processing is almost as long as the history of mankind, since the production of fishing and hunting, the diet that includes aquatic food processing. The general method of aquatic food and drink processing has long been generally grasped by the people. Such as Su Shi, "the type of things phase sensation Zhi" records, mint to fishy, boiled fish soup in the cooked into the Sichuan pepper can go fishy, with Hovenia or Fenghuang flower seeds cooked fish is soft and so on. Another example is the puffer fish flavor is very beautiful, but there are poisonous, Song Dynasty Wu people have grasped a complete set of puffer fish processing methods, on what part of the most poisonous and when caught as well as know. Kong Pingzhong "renewed world", Zhang Lei "Ming Dao magazine", Hu Zai "Campsis fishermen's hidden series of words" and other books have recorded, such as eating puffer fish on the day can not be into the service of soup, because the puffer fish and the traditional Chinese medicine aconite, epiphyllum is contraindicated. If it has been poisoned, the method of detoxification is to induce vomiting and medicinal detoxification. To induce vomiting is "to drink filth urgently", the medicine to solve the lobster brain water or to the treasure Dan or olive, can also be fried acacia flowers and dry Yanzhi (rouge) and so on pounded into powder, water mixing irrigation. Drinking food processing can be divided into flavorful fish products and famous products. Relatively speaking, the Taihu Lake area of aquatic beverage processing technology is more delicate than other regions, "Wu real estate fish, Wu people are good at governing food, it has been a long time" [1]. Republic of China, "Wu County" Volume 51 "Produce two" cited (Sui) "Daiye Miscellany" cloud, Wu people for perch dry chopped fish method, "five or six months of the sea to take this fish, wisps cut and dried, held in porcelain bottles, sealed mud. Want to eat open to take, with a new cloth wrapped in a large basin at the bottom of the well, soak long out of the cloth, sprinkle but the water, the dressing is scattered on the plate"; and carp as raw materials for the author, the method is also "out of the Taihu Lake, purely carp for the carp; a bottle of four or five hundred head of fish, taste over sturgeon". Another example of crystal chopped meat method, "to red-tailed carp net wash to salivate, with new water slow fire simmer thick, remove the scale dregs, to be cold that is cut in strands, Wo to five Xin" [2]. It can be seen, the production of various fish chopped meat from the selection of raw materials, the grasp of the fire to the release of condiments have a series of more complex processing procedures. Food processing in the city is particularly elaborate, such as the Northern Song Bianjing (that is, today's Kaifeng) has because of the "South people do not serve northern food" and open the southern food store. A part of the "southerners" knew how to make southern food, such as Ye Mengde's "Record of Summer Vacation", which recorded that the old maid in Mei Shengyu's family could make sashimi with crucian carp as the main ingredient is a case in point. And according to Zhou Dafei "Ling Wai Dai Ai" Volume 6, Zhao Yanwei "Yun Lu Man Kei" Volume 5 and other books, at that time, there were famous and excellent products such as "Fish Soul" made by cutting off the lips of live sturgeon, "Xishi Milk" made from the belly of puffer fish, and "Mushroom for Soup, Carp and Carp for Carp" made by Sister-in-law of Song Wusao outside the gate of Qiantang. The "Golden Soup and Jade Chopped" made by Mrs. Song Wushu outside Qiantang Gate, which is made of mushroom as soup and carp or chopped meat. All of the above are the processing methods of drinking food that existed before the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and there is no doubt that their processing techniques must have been passed down from generation to generation and become more and more exquisite. Quoted above, the Republic of China period of the Taihu Lake area of the processing of its food still has a specific record that is clear evidence. Ming human collection also has a specific record of the processing of fish dishes, "the Wu people make perch preserved fish, quail, the flavor is very beautiful, the so-called gold spices and jade chopped meat also. Perch meat is very white, mixed with cattails flowers and leaves, purple and green, to return to the beans, a rest of mud, fragrant apricot greasy body, the real treasures. The same is true for the fish wax. Back to the beans as fine as hazelnut meat, very beautiful flavor. A breath of mud such as pepper, back to the spices. Fragrant apricot greasy a eight Dan almonds, Yuan people "meals are about to drink" more than this material. Jiaozi fish in the capital now known as gizzard shad fish "[3]. It can be seen at the time of the fish, this dish has been spread from the Taihu Lake area to the capital, and has another name. Poetry and song more mentioned, such as one of the cloud: "high lake ice as a block, the water falls out of the old traces of the back of the continent. Fisherman waving sinking net, on the guest tour view slow fur belt. The fisherman's net is sinking, and the guest's fur is slowing down. He jumps over the green and white to lift a few tails, and the pomfrets do not say that they are popular. I still love things and love them, but I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to explain what I'm doing. Jade flower line to see the boarding of Cuipan, vegetarian dorsal fins have long been raised Qingse"; its second cloud: "flat lake such as the seat of the continent if the block, the fisherman hit the water to scare the back of the fish. A net of several scales such as picking up mustard, fused with the head of the Guanqi phase haunted. Breakfast people waving knife flying snowflakes, guests stop eating to talk about jade chopped" [4]. Specialized books in the Qing Dynasty, such as "with the garden food list" recorded in the Jiangzhe area of cooking and processing of dishes, including stone hair, sauce stone flower, stone flower cake, shark fins, swordfish, anchovies and other aquatic treasures. In addition to the above variety of famous products, there are also fish and other flavor products, "where pickled dry fish must first cut open the fresh fish, go to the belly of the intestines and stomach of each piece of the so-called fish miscellaneous, the Binhu Lake production of fish more than to take the fish miscellaneous cooking meals, said delicious." [5]. Ming and Qing dynasties, shrimp and crab and other types of aquatic food processing types are also very much. Crab has a sauce crab, bad crab, drunken crab, etc., the processing of the secret of the so-called "female does not offend males, males do not offend females," "wine does not offend the sauce, sauce does not offend the wine," "the crab must be all live, chelae and feet are not injured" and so on. Shrimp processing of drunken shrimp, shrimp pine, shrimp powder, etc.. In summary, due to the official attention to the fisheries industry in the Ming Dynasty, fisheries production has developed greatly. Aquatic processing industry in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in the Ming and Qing dynasties is quite developed, aquatic processing technology tends to be diversified, refined. Aquatic processing in a variety of ways, processing a huge number of processing, processing quality is excellent, drink Zhuan processing technology is colorful, exquisite and diverse. This can be seen from the official collection of fish class name, in addition to the fish class of silver levy, there are dried fish, fish oil, fish gland gum, various colors of preserved fish, preserved fish pepper and spices, such as the color of the levy. The traditional processing methods include salting and spoiling of preserved fish, exposure to sunlight, drying and fumigation of dried fish, and so on. To the late Qing Dynasty, the catch of the refrigerated preservation gradually, especially after the ice plant more and more, before it is difficult to popularize, mostly used for the royal tribute to the refrigerated preservation technology gradually promoted, especially in the late Qing Dynasty. The end of the Qing Dynasty, and from overseas introduction of aquatic products canned processing technology, canned processing number also rose rapidly. In addition, people of all kinds of by-products to be processed and utilized to make the best use of things, such as refining fish oil, processing of swim bladder glue, with shellfish crustaceans fertilizer, etc.. [1] Republic of China "Wu County Records" Volume 51 "Products". [2] Qianlong "Changzhou County Records" Volume 17 "Products". [3] (Ming) Yang Shen, Shengan ji, vol. 69, "Golden Spices and Jade Chop". Siku 1270-682.[4] (Ming Dynasty) Sun Chengyeun "Wenjian ji" vol. 21 "Lunar month with Huo We-nyong and all the public Wulongtan watch fishing with Po-Weng rhyme two". Siku 1271-264. [5] Republic of Su Song County Records, Volume 18, Industry - Fisheries. The second section of the aquatic trade on the Chinese historical period of the aquatic trade in this area, previous scholars involved relatively little, in addition to the general history of fisheries works in the relevant sections have discussed [1], the special paper on the author of the tube to see and Mr. Zhang Jinguang's "the development of fishery production in the Tang dynasty and its commercialization issues" [2], Japan, Mr. Nakamura Ji Bingwei's "Tang dynasty's fisheries policy and the circulation of fish," [3], the special article Those who discussed the aquatic trade in the Ming and Qing dynasties are rare. In fact, the aquatic trade in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in the Ming and Qing dynasties was relatively prosperous, and both the trade in fresh fish and the transportation and marketing of processed products were quite developed. This section is intended to explore this issue. A fresh fish trade in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in the fish-producing rivers and lakes in the waters of the fish trade is quite developed, in the pre-Ming Dynasty fisheries is extremely prosperous period is especially so. From the form of its sales and trading scale, the lower and middle reaches of the Yangtze River fresh fish trade can be divided into sporadic sales and merchants to two different types, the following classification description. 1. sporadic trading in the spring and summer non-concentration of fishing period, are all fishing households alone production, catch production is not large, the catch is relatively small. Therefore, the sporadic sale is the period of fresh fish trade in the form of the more important, by the merchants to the traders less. During the period of concentrated production in the fall and winter, in addition to bulk resale by merchants, the form of sporadic trade also still existed. From the point of view of trade volume, the amount of sporadic trade is much lower than the bulk operation of merchants in bulk. But the sporadic trade in fresh fish almost all year round, the riverside waterfront transportation convenient place are the size of the fish market, water market. Most of the fishermen specializing in fishing for a living all year round, regardless of the morning and evening of the day and night are in production. Fishermen four times a boat in the five lakes in the wind and waves, boat for home, water for the field, there is a poem for evidence: "the eldest child has been long when the portal, the youngest child ten years old can sculling. The woman sat in the window all day long, mending fishnets and sewing clothes. Clothes and food would rather talk about thick and thin, life is not as happy as life" [4]. Related poems can be countless. Geographically speaking, the Ming and Qing dynasties of the fresh fish trade to the lake area of the Jianghan Plain and Dongting Lake Plain and the Taihu Lake basin is most prosperous. Li Dongyang "Huailutang set" volume 3 "fishing map song" poem Yun: "river flower clip bank river water deep, this time feet of fish such as inches of gold. ...... families sell fish to the river, large and small boats do not know the number of". Born in Changsha, Li Dongyang is very familiar with his hometown of Chu's fisheries production, which describes the Jiangpu fish market when the situation is a realistic statement. Another poem by He Jingming in Dafuji, Volume 11, "Fishing Songs in Jin City", reads: "The big boat is tied up to the river bank, and catfish and pomfrets are collected in millions. The small boat takes speed but not much, and throws nets like a shuttle. The savages live in the water without boats, and they weave bamboo beams for their nets, which are like koos. At night, the water is long without a sand back, and every family in Tianjin sells fish." Its reflection is also the fishery production and sales of the prosperity of the situation. The scale of fresh fish trade in other areas is also considerable, such as the Taihu Lake area, large six-masted fishing boats in the "stern of the three boards tied to the boat, into the market fish multiplied by round trip" [5]. Fishermen are the direct participants in the sporadic trade - sellers, or catch and sell, or sell in the morning and evening while the market.