Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Where did the dough come from?

Where did the dough come from?

Hanzhong noodles (liangpi) originated from the heyday of Qin Shihuang (231~213 BC)! According to the records of Chang'an County Chronicle and Liuba County Chronicle, when Qin Shihuang was in power, there were 100,000 acres of rice fields in Nanzhengjin (Hanzhong area---ten counties and one district), which lasted for a year. There was no rain, the rice fields dried up, and the rice that was harvested was all rice residue. The quality of the rice produced was too poor to pay tribute to the emperor. The farmers were deeply worried about the crime of deceiving the emperor, and were very anxious and panicked. At that time, there was a farmer named Zhu. After he mixed the new rice with water, he used a water grinder specially used for rice grinding to grind the rice into a paste, then poured it on a grate, steamed it and cut it into strips. The name It’s rice skin, and everyone was amazed after tasting it. He came to Qin Town with the dough and the people who paid tribute, and presented the dough to Qin Shihuang. The emperor ate the dough and it was delicious. He highly appreciated it and ordered that from now on, tributes in the Hanzhong area could only be rice skins. Later, in the Hanzhong area where he died, every farmer's household had water mills and grinders for steaming dough, so that they could steam and eat the dough every day! Now, in the rural areas of Hanzhong area, you will see a stone water mill placed outside the door of every household to commemorate the memory of this farmer.

In the north, there is less rice and the dough is made from wheat flour. In the south, there is more rice, but there is no skill in making dough. Hanzhong is in the transitional zone between north and south. It has both rice and wheat. It can make both wheat and rice noodles, and is especially famous for its rice noodles. Every family in the countryside has someone who knows how to make dough. Needless to say women, there are also many men who are good at making dough, and they are probably the best in Hanzhong. Hanzhong dough is made by soaking the rice in water until it is neither hard nor soft, grinding it into rice paste, and then spreading the rice paste evenly on the cloth of the steamer. Stir it up for five minutes, and you will see the steam around the steamer steaming and the fragrance overflowing, that is, You can turn the steamed dough over on the counter, let it cool, apply vegetable oil and cut into thin strips, put it in a bowl, add some bean sprouts or spinach, and then add salt, vinegar, soy sauce, ginger juice, garlic paste, mustard, MSG, and sesame oil. There are nearly 20 kinds of seasonings such as , oily spicy seeds, etc., mix well and it is ready to eat. It has a unique flavor when you eat it. It is thick with sour taste and soft with strong tendons. It will make your throat whet your appetite. The more you eat, the more you want to eat. Eat it cold in the summer, and it has a refreshing fragrance; steam it and eat it hot in the winter, which can drive away some of the cold. Eat it cold or hot, it will make you feel hot in your belly, spicy in your mouth, beads of sweat will appear on your forehead, you will feel refreshed and your fatigue will disappear. Speaking of Hanzhong noodles, there is also a folk legend. During the Three Kingdoms period, Cao Cao led his troops to attack Shu Han. It was the rainy season when he entered Hanzhong. One day while passing by the Han River, the water suddenly surged and soaked a boatload of rice collected. When Cao heard this, he beat and scolded the boatmen. A peasant woman happened to be passing by and she begged Cao for mercy and rescued the boatmen. The ingenious peasant woman ground the rice soaked in the river water overnight into rice paste and invented dough. Cao Cao was so full of praise after eating it that he ordered all the peasant women along the river to make it according to the method, steam it day and night, put it into rice bags and distribute it to the soldiers. carry. Since then, dough has been passed down among the people. This local delicacy is connected with ancient legends. No wonder Hanzhong people like dough so much. Dough can be used as a staple food or as a dish. It is one of the favorite foods of Hanzhong people. Whether in the city or in the countryside, whether it's cold or hot, dough has become an indispensable delicacy for people. Since the 1980s, noodle snacks have been all over the streets, alleys, roadside villages, especially on both sides of the streets in the morning and evening, and it has become a "noodle world". The cries of "noodles" kept coming one after another, one after another, like a opera, attracting passers-by to stop. All the noodle shops were packed with diners and almost all seats were occupied. The "diners" sit or squat as they please, chewing and drinking as they please, and their formation is spectacular. The most interesting thing is that most of the noodle eaters are handsome men and women, especially girls. As soon as they walk into the noodle shop, they can’t put down their bowls without leaving a red circle on their lips and beads of sweat hanging on their foreheads. . In the past, this kind of "lower Riba" dough was not popular in elegant halls. Nowadays, at banquets in luxury hotels, the dough has become a delicacy praised by diners. "Let's go and have a bowl of noodles." It has almost become the "mantra" of Hanzhong people. Every morning, salarymen at work and farmers working outside flock to the dough shop to get a bowl of dough and a bowl of porridge. It only costs less than two yuan. It is economical, affordable, and full of flavor. It has become a breakfast favorite for many people. substitute. A housewife cooks a pot of porridge and buys a few kilograms of dough, which is a delicious meal for the family. Even the author's three-year-old son yelled to eat dough when he saw porridge, and dough actually cultivated a new generation of "loving family". For outsiders coming to Hanzhong, the most memorable thing is noodles. A friend of mine from Xi'an loves to eat noodles every time he comes to Hanzhong. He will eat three meals a day if it is not noodles. He will not return to the provincial capital if he is not addicted to noodles. The first sentence in the letter is: "I want to eat your Hanzhong noodles again. It's spicy, sour, fragrant, and tastes great!"

The dough is made from rice, which is soaked and ground into rice slurry. It is diluted with water and steamed in a special cage. After cooling, it is cut into thin strips. It is white, thin, light, tender, fine, soft, tough and fragrant. It is supplemented with bean sprouts, spinach, shredded carrots, and seasonings such as sesame sauce, chili sauce, garlic juice, ginger juice, mustard, five-spice powder, and refined salt. After mixing, red and green complement each other, yellow and white complement each other, bright color, refreshing food, fragrant smell and unique flavor. There are many ways to eat the dough. In addition to eating it cold, it can also be dried and fried. It is white and translucent, crispy and charming, and can be compared with shrimp crackers at a banquet. There are also ways to eat it, such as stir-frying and stewing. It has long been a favorite local snack with unique flavor.

Mianpi is the name of Hanzhong people. Outsiders usually call it rice noodles, and some call it liangpi. Nowadays, the more common name is Hanzhong Noodles. The dough making process is traditional and cumbersome. First, the rice is washed and soaked in water, then ground into a slurry using a stone mill, and then steamed out one by one and eaten with condiments. Speaking of trouble, first of all, if the rice is not soaked well, the dough will not be steamed well. For those housewives, whether they can master this degree is the standard to measure their level. Then there is grinding. Pushing the stone requires strength, scooping the rice requires patience. Both pushing and scooping require considerable skills and close cooperation. In particular, it is very particular about how much rice and how much water is scooped out each time. The fineness and thickness, thinness and thickness of the rice batter determine the thickness and toughness of the dough. Nowadays, the technology of machine polishing rice has been used, which can be said to be quite sophisticated.

Hanzhong people love noodles very much, and everyone from dignitaries to ordinary people likes noodles. It seems that noodles are the most enjoyable food in the world. Every authentic Hanzhong person usually eats noodles for breakfast, followed by a bowl of vegetable tofu porridge. The price is only 2 yuan, but it is delicious to the heart and stomach. I remember when I was studying and working in other places, whenever I was sick or homesick, I would desperately look for our Hanzhong friends. Even if you are sick and have no appetite, as long as you see the skin, don't mention it! By the way, our Hanzhong noodles are generally divided into hot noodles and cold noodles. Haha, it's actually the same process, but you can enjoy the hot dough right out of the basket, and it tastes tender. As for cold noodles, you just let the hot noodles cool down. The taste is smooth and chewy. As for how to choose, it all depends on your own requirements!

As a native of Hanzhong, Shaanxi Province, I have an irreplaceable love for the opposite side. The noodles served at the food stalls in the morning are very enjoyable, and at noon, there are still many people eating at any noodle shop on any street. Not to mention that at night, the stalls selling various snacks are still not as popular as an authentic noodle shop. I don’t have any other hobbies for eating. If I come across a noodle shop with good taste, and the chili peppers are plentiful and fragrant, I don’t need to mention that slander. I must take a deep breath to expand the capacity of my stomach and fill it up. Let’s talk again. Hey, it's a pity that I have completely digested the dough in the morning. Forget it, swallow your saliva and wait for tomorrow!

At the end of the new year, whether you are on a business trip, studying, or working outside, when you return to your hometown, as soon as you get off the train or car, you will immediately look at the noodle stall, rush to it impatiently, put your luggage aside, and eat one or two first Only when the dough comes out of the bowl can we talk about other things. It seems that with the enjoyment of the mouth and tongue, all the worries of being away from home and the deep homesickness have disappeared. Noodles, this is the famous snack in Hanzhong. People all over the world call it "Hanzhong Liangpi", but most people in Hanzhong eat "hot noodles". Hot noodles are white and soft, with a smooth texture, similar to the characteristics of girls here. . Hot dough is made by soaking rice, grinding it into pulp and steaming it. Take out the hot dough, cut it crosswise with a guillotine, place the soybean sprouts in a bowl, and add the spicy garlic water, ginger juice and five-spice soup. Serve. The key to enhancing the flavor of Hanzhong noodles is to "play with spiciness." The oil-splashed chili peppers are usually prepared by the stall owners themselves. Every family has a secret recipe. If the spicy pepper is fragrant, more people will eat it. At the same time, rumors will spread like wildfire. , people will say that the noodle spicy food at a certain stall is mixed with "dichlorvos", "big smoke shell" and "baby's urine". To eat Hanzhong noodles, you usually need a bowl of vegetable tofu porridge as a "set meal". The method of cooking vegetable tofu porridge is as follows: boil fresh soy milk, pour pickled cabbage water along the edge of the pot with a shallow spoon, and wait until the tofu brain appears and a round lump of tofu appears. Just seal the pot. When ladling, a piece of soft tofu floats in half a bowl of soup, which is refreshing and nutritious. As for Guanzhong dough, Qishan dough is the most famous. The shape of the dough and the seasoning are almost the same as Hanzhong dough, but it is still "pasta" in essence. It is made by mixing wheat flour into a dough and then "washing it" with warm water. "Pull out the gluten, ladle the empty soup slurry onto the white cloth retort grate, pour it into balls and steam it into balls." Cut the Qishan noodles out of the pot into finger-widths, first put them into a large iron ladle, then mix in the steamed gluten, garlic water, mung bean sprouts, aniseed soup, spicy oil, and mustard, stir well, and serve. dish. The texture of Qishan noodles is characterized by its tender texture and spicy and sour taste. You will sweat on your head after eating a plate of Qishan Liangpi. Qishan noodles are actually a small revolution in noodles. It removes the "tendons" of noodles, allowing the thick noodles to show a softer side. In terms of characteristics, it is very close to Hanzhong noodles.

Rice noodles have differentiated the general dietary direction of Hanzhong and Guanzhong. At the same time, they have also shaped the very different personality traits and life value orientations of the people in the two places. On this point, we can find some basis from the "Compendium of Materia Medica", "Compendium of Materia Medica" "It says: Rice can nourish the spleen, and wheat can nourish the heart." When the spleen is good, the human nature is gentle; when the heart is good, the person is honest. Therefore, generally speaking, people in Hanzhong are more likely to be born with rice white, tender, short, and strong, while people in Guanzhong are more likely to be born with wheat color, strong, strong, and strong. Supplemented by the training of the mountains and rivers, the Hanzhong people showed a soft and sentimental side in temperament, they were fond of elegance and thought of life carefree, while the Guanzhong people showed a rustic and rough mentality, often as a knight. If you love justice, you may behave like a swordsman from time to time.

This type of stall is generally not big, and one storefront is enough. A large stove was set up at the door, with a large pot on the stove, boiling water was boiling in the pot, and towering steamers were set up layer by layer on the water. One after another, they were picked up and poured with rice milk and steamed. There is a stove next to it, and sitting on the stove is a large pot of seasoning soup that has been simmered all night. There are indeed a lot of good things in it: chopped green onion, ginger, pepper, grass fruits, aniseed and other seasonings, as well as several medicinal materials such as gastrodia elata and angelica.

The dough is actually made of rice, similar to rice noodles in the south. It is named because it is tender and chewy like fine noodles. You can cut it into thin pieces like noodles, or you can pour the seasoning soup on it and put it whole in a bowl and mix it up before eating.

You can't taste the dough without adding chili pepper. The more particular ones use the best peppers, grind them finely into flour, add sesame seeds, and splash hot oil on them. The smell from a distance will whet your appetite. So you had no choice but to sit down. Who makes your stomach so naughty? You just unknowingly ate a bowl, a bit like Zhu Bajie eating ginseng fruit. He only knows how delicious it is, only knows how to eat it, but forgets to taste it. You have to have another bowl and savor it carefully. It's just that I can't explain why. It's not spicy, sour, or numb. I just feel warm in my heart, comfortable in my stomach, fragrant in my mouth and tongue, oily but not greasy, refreshing and heart-warming. It's best to drink it again. A bowl of vegetable tofu is like drinking coffee with a partner. Soon, your head and soles will be steaming, and your face will look like a peach blossom. No wonder the girls in Hanzhong usually look juicy, gentle, and polite, but when it comes to eating dough, they seem to be quite angry.

With the reform and opening up, this kind of snack from southern Shaanxi has also appeared on the streets of Beijing and the food stalls of Shenzhen. Not to mention the high price, the taste is not very authentic, especially because I am not used to outsiders always calling the dough "liangpi". Because I always think that the dough tastes better when eaten cold, but it tastes even worse when eaten hot. Late at night in the middle of winter, the weather is freezing, but the night market is bustling with people. All just for a bowl of hot noodles that are freshly steamed and sold. In particular, it is an excellent late-night snack for lovers. It is steaming hot and you can take a bite of it while I eat it affectionately. After several days, it has become a prosperous, sweet and delicious meal. Forget it!

I thought that snacks are snacks after all and cannot be served on a banquet. Unexpectedly, one time at a friend's wedding banquet, I unexpectedly saw dough. It was surrounded by a circle of oily meat and covered with dough. A large piece of lettuce leaves were dotted with many cherries, lotus seeds and the like. For a moment, all the color, flavor and aroma were taken up by it. Within two minutes of the big plate being brought to the table, it was all gone with two chopsticks per person.

Even so, I always feel that noodles are for the common people after all, and it is better not to put on those noble and gorgeous clothes for popular eating. A little understanding from a foreigner who loves to eat dough:

There are many kinds of noodles in Shaanxi, divided by region, there are several types, Qinzhen noodles, Qishan noodles, Hanzhong noodles, these are just the ones I know. The raw materials are basically flour and rice. Qinzhen noodles and Hanzhong noodles are both made of rice, while Qishan noodles are made of flour and rolled out, so Qishan noodles are also called Qishan rolled noodles. Most people in Shaanxi prefer to eat noodles, especially women. They will definitely think about it if they don't eat it for a few days.

Of the three types of dough, I personally prefer Hanzhong dough, which is softer and smoother. Delicious Hanzhong noodles must be made with soybean sprouts grown without adding auxin as the base, paired with chili peppers that the farmer first stir-fries in an iron pot, then smashes them in a stone nest, and finally pours them with hot oil. Sprinkle some sesame seeds on top to make it fragrant. When eating Hanzhong noodles, the authentic way to eat them is with a bowl of noodles, a portion of vegetable tofu, and a small dish of sauce. The sauce is specially made for the vegetable tofu. Hanzhong noodles can arouse people's appetite just by looking at the appearance, with white dough, soybean sprouts and red peppers. But the green tofu doesn't look good. It looks like smashed tofu, dotted with some pickles, and looks like stale tofu that has been stored for several days. But although it is inconspicuous, it is a very healthy food. The so-called pickles are the store's own pickles. It turns out that Hanzhong people use pickles to order pickled tofu. Isn't it healthier than using pickles? People in Hanzhong are very good-natured, and many people eat at least one meal almost every day. Some people even take some with them when they go on business trips. In addition to noodles and vegetable tofu, Hanzhong also has skin noodles, rice jelly, and soy milk porridge, all of which are delicious.

Hanzhong people live longer, and many Hanzhong people think this is related to the fact that they often eat dough and vegetable tofu. Hanzhong is also a place with outstanding individuals. Liu Bang, Han Xin, Cao Cao, Zhuge Liang...many historical celebrities have left their footprints in Hanzhong. Hanzhong has a pleasant climate and is known as Little Jiangnan. In April, the rapeseed flowers in Hanzhong will bloom very romantically, and the eclipta flowers at Zhuge Liang Temple in Mian County seem to be blooming in April as well. If you have the chance, you should go for a walk, eat noodles, and go out for an outing to review the past. It will definitely be unique. Hanzhong Basin has a humid climate, abundant water resources, fertile land, abundant products, and is rich in rice. It is known as the "Land of Fish and Rice". Hanzhong rice noodles are made from high-quality rice that is abundant in the local area. The rice is washed out the day before, soaked and ground into a paste. The paste should not be too thick or too thin, and should be in the form of a thin paste. The paste is then filled in a special tin pan. Place in boiling water and scald until cooked. Take out the pan, soak it slightly in cold water, twist the chopsticks along the edge of the pan, and flip it back, and a piece of snow-white and soft dough is ready. Apply some cooking oil to the dough, fold it and cut it into finger-width noodles with a knife. The dough is soft and normal, soft in the mouth, smooth and delicate, and has an excellent taste. Of course, the dough is indispensable, and usually some cucumber shreds or boiled bean sprouts and cowpeas are added, as they are mostly crispy things that complement each other. In addition, seasonings are absolutely indispensable: soy sauce, vinegar, minced garlic, MSG, chili, mustard, sesame paste, Hong Kong, all available. Especially chili peppers. It is the most delicious seasoning. If the red oil chili pepper is missing, the soul will be missing. Eating noodles does not depend on the season. It is made and sold all year round, spring, summer, autumn and winter, and is available at any time. Rice noodles are the best food for Hanzhong people to entertain guests. In any hotel, big or small, the banquet is served with gold bottles of fine wine and delicacies, and a large plate of dough is indispensable, and this dough is definitely the most popular and the first to be eaten. Even those who are too sick to think about food and drink still want to eat a bowl of rice noodle skin to whet their appetite. Later, people switched to overlapping bamboo cages, which could steam several sheets at a time and were large and thin. Cut into thin strips, the tendons are flexible, soft and continuous, like noodles, so it is renamed "dough". (The dough here means: made of rice, not flour.) However, the Hanzhong people are becoming more and more sophisticated in making dough. You can keep warm by eating dough in winter, you can digest it in summer, you can relieve fatigue by eating it in spring, and you can get rid of moisture by eating it in autumn. It can be said that it is a rare natural green and pollution-free food suitable for all seasons.

Profit analysis of a 20 square meter Liangpi shop:

Cost and profit analysis of Hanzhong rice dough: taking 50 kilograms of rice as an example:

The unit price of 50 kilograms of rice is 1.3 yuan, that is, 1.3 yuan*50=65 yuan. It can make 125 kilograms of dough. Each bowl is 0.5 kilograms. It can adjust 250 bowls. Each bowl is sold for 2 yuan, ***calculated 500 yuan. Fuel fee is 25 yuan.

Spice water 37.5 yuan, chili oil 25 yuan, sesame seeds 37.5 yuan

Total of 250 bowls of rice skin seasoning: 25 yuan + 37.5 yuan + 25 yuan + 37.5 yuan = 0 + 25 yuan

Total cost: rice 65 yuan + condiments 0 + 25 yuan = 0 + 90 yuan

Net profit: 500 yuan-190 yuan=310 yuan

It seems that compared with dough made from flour and made from rice, the cost of making dough from rice is much lower. Hanzhong noodles are also called Liangpi, and they have different names depending on the raw materials used. Those made with (large) rice are called rice noodles, also called Liangpi, and those made with flour (flour) are called gluten noodles. According to taste, they are divided into Hanzhong noodles and Qinzhen noodles, because Hanzhong noodles are fresher, smoother and have a better taste than Qinzhen noodles. The most important thing is that the raw materials are easy to purchase and the preparation is simple. Therefore, specialty stores and stalls named "Hanzhong Liangpi (noodles)" and "Shaanxi Noodles" can be found everywhere in big cities across the country. It can be seen that the development of Liangpi has great profit potential. , is a short, flat and fast project with small investment and low risk.