Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - What influence does Chaoshan cuisine have on the past and present?
What influence does Chaoshan cuisine have on the past and present?
Many snacks in Chaoshan are not only loved by local people, but also very popular in other places. Eight kinds of Chaoshan snacks were awarded the title of "Chinese Famous Snacks" at the National Excellent Snacks Variety Appraisal Meeting-"Chinese Famous Snacks Commendation Conference". Why are Chaoshan snacks so attractive? What are its characteristics? First, she was born in poverty, in our nature. Almost all her works are created by the people and have been circulated among the people. This is determined by the fact that Chaoshan is located in the "corner of the country at the end of the province" in history, far from the national political center, the commercial society formed late and the social wealth was not high. Here are some Chaoshan snacks in hand: Xitianxiang Oyster Roast, Goose Goose, Elder Sister's Pig's Foot Rice, and Mother's Gong Zongqiu. Which name is not simple and straightforward, and the local flavor is tangy. Throughout Chaoshan snacks, there are roughly three channels for their formation. 1, pay tribute to the gods. The coastal climate in Chaoshan is hot and humid, and people are prone to get sick. In addition, offshore operations are risky, labor and harvest are out of proportion, and there are many unexpected factors. When people can't predict their own destiny, they often pin their hopes on the blessing of the gods. In addition, in the era of material scarcity, people can also give themselves a reason to improve their lives with the help of worship activities. Therefore, the old Chaoshan folk custom has the characteristics of many seasons and many gods. Many Chaoshan snacks were originally sacrificial offerings, such as "colored head fruit" (meaning "colored head") and "sweet fruit" in the Spring Festival, "Mianxian" (meaning "longevity") in Mazu's birthday, "Zongqiu" in the Dragon Boat Festival and "moon cake" in the Mid-Autumn Festival. As the saying goes, "when the season is ripe, it is mature." 2. supplement snacks for dinner. Unlike Cantonese dim sum, these Chaoshan snacks are refreshments for the leisure class to pass the time, but snacks for rural towns to work hard to satisfy their hunger. Hipsters are used to eating porridge, for one thing, there was not enough food earlier, and for another, the climate was natural. People who do rough work can't stand a sweat after eating several bowls of porridge in the morning. They were hungry before dinner. At this time, meeting a food stall porter coming across the street is like finding a savior. He can use a few cents to supplement his physical strength and meet his temporary needs. At that time, there were grass cakes (bean jelly), bean curd and various sweet soups in summer to cool off the heat. You don't need a spoon to eat hay Pick up a shallow bowl, spin it around the bowl with your mouth and wipe your mouth with a cloth. Cool! There are hot beef ball soup, leek and water chestnut in winter. Beef balls were originally Hakka snacks. After Shantou opened its port, mountain products went abroad and foreign goods entered the mountains. Handi area in Shantou used to be the anchorage of Hakka cargo ships. In the evening, a Hakka rowed a boat and sold beef ball soup as a snack to the cargo ship owner. Later, beef balls were developed by Chaoshan people, and kway teow was added to the soup to become beef ball kway teow. Later, fish balls, shrimp balls, cuttlefish balls and pork balls were cloned, and the Chaoshan "meatball series" was created. The "Xinxing Street Beef Ball" in "Chinese Famous Snacks" is made by Shantou people. Now when it comes to beef balls, everyone thinks it's trendy. In fact, it is the product of hipsters' utilitarianism, and hipsters' intelligence and wisdom are fully displayed in a small ball. 3. homemade snacks the most delicious snacks are all kinds of snacks made by Chaoshan clever wives to alleviate their children's greed. Such as pumpkin, autumn melon and tomato. In the old society, children clamored for "cakes" before the season, so the daughter-in-law at home had to find a way to send these greedy children away. Every household in Chaoshan rural area has enough sweet potato powder. Picking fruits and vegetables from their own fields, mixing them together and frying them in oil will become a unique snack. When I was a child, I ate the "cold porridge" cooked by my grandmother with sweet potato powder mixed with cold porridge for the night. This is really unique. There is a snack called "pig's head zongzi", which is said to be made unintentionally by Chenghai people. In the early years, Chenghai countryside had the custom of having a Lantern Festival pig race. Every household should kill pigs to worship their ancestors. There is a family that worships ancestors, and the remaining pig heads can't be eaten for a while, so they chop up the pig's head meat and add seasoning to make it into "pig's head jiaozi", which is particularly delicious. So it spread and became a flavor snack. Chaoshan snacks entered the market as commodities in the 1920s and 1930s, which was the heyday of Shantou's commercial economy. At that time, the small park was crowded with shops, restaurants and hotels. As a kind of food, Chaoshan snacks can naturally find their place here. For example, the time-honored Aixi Regan Noodles, delicious snacks, Xitianxiang oyster sauce and Malaogong dumplings all entered the small park at that time. Now many overseas hipsters come to Shantou, and the first thing they do is to go straight to the small park and have a delicious Chaoshan snack in the old snack bar, but they are homesick. Chaoshan snacks are rooted in the people, not attached to official culture and scholar-bureaucrat culture. Since their birth, they have been circulated among the people with a natural attitude and in accordance with the natural laws of natural selection. Therefore, we can taste so many local snacks now. Second, the materials are simple and the taste is unique. Cantonese dim sum is good at foreign flavor, such as cream buns, egg tarts and barbecued pork buns. Shanghai snacks are famous for seafood, such as crab roe soup dumplings and minced fish spring rolls, while northern snacks are mainly pasta. Chaoshan snacks are nothing without rice. The word "pot" in Chaoshan dialect summarizes the main raw materials of Chaoshan snacks. In Chaoshan Dictionary, the word "fruit" is interpreted as a kind of fruit with rice flour as the skin and stuffing. Leek buns are called "rice-free buns" because the skin is sweet potato powder and the stuffing is vegetables, which shows the position of rice in snacks. Earlier, the ancestors of Chaoshan moved south from the Central Plains to Chaoshan. According to the custom of ancestral home, pasta is a fruit for ancestor worship, and wheat is not produced in the south, so rice can only be used as fruit. This is the origin of "country". Later, the raw materials and practices of sacrificial food continued to innovate and develop, and people called all sacrificial bags "pots". It's amazing that hipsters use rice as a snack. It can be a kind of raw material that is both skin and stuffing-"Bao Fan". If there is a snack called "Guo Tao", it is not only boring, but also delicious with glutinous rice flour as the skin and glutinous rice as the stuffing. Chaoshan is rich in sweet potatoes, which are flat and cheap crops and are also widely used in snacks. Sweet potato powder can be used as the skin of snacks, such as "crystal ball" and "leek cake" with sweet and salty stuffing. It can also be mixed with fruits and steamed into "Maling potato cake", "taro cake" and "horseshoe cake". It can also be made into "cake baked sweet potato" and "sweet potato soup". Although sweet potato comes from humble origins, it is a big family in Chaoshan snacks. Different from Shanghai and other coastal areas, Chaoshan snacks use less seafood, such as lobster, shark's fin and crab. One of the reasons is that the Chaoshan climate is hot and seafood is difficult to store. In addition, it is also caused by its civilian characteristics. Oysters are abundant in coastal areas, but only Chaoshan-"Oyster Roast" makes oysters into snacks. Its practice is also very simple, that is, the sweet potato powder and oysters are mixed and fried into cakes, and duck eggs are poured on them, but the taste is extremely unique, crisp outside and tender inside, and it has become a famous snack. Look at Chaoshan snacks, mainly vegetarian, with few fish. Its material selection is simple, and most of them are common crops-rice, sweet potatoes and vegetables, but it has won people's favor with its unique pastoral flavor and is deeply loved by people from all walks of life because of its low price.
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