The history of tie-dyeing

There are two theories about the origin of tie-dyeing. One originated in the Qin and Han Dynasties (no unearthed objects have been found in Bian Xiao); It is said that during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the cloth unearthed from the No.1 Tomb in the Sixth District of Astana, Xinjiang, is similar to Fang Sheng in today's tie-dyed patterns in Zigong. Unearthed fabrics have mature tie-dyeing technology and have been used in women's wear.

In the Tang Dynasty, China's clothing was in its heyday, and people paid special attention to the assembly of accessories and the complexity of fabric patterns. As one of the contributions of fabric patterns, the tie-dyeing techniques in the Tang Dynasty were exquisite and varied.

Xue Tao, a poetess, wrote in her "Haitang Creek" that "the scenery of Spring Education is in Xianxia, and fish always bring flowers to the surface of the water, while people are indifferent to Linghua, striving to turn red and benefit over sand".

Many beautiful tie-dyed clothes can be seen in many scroll paintings circulating in the Tang Dynasty. For example, the Tao Ren Map by Zhang Xuan, a painter in the Tang Dynasty, is particularly prominent. "Tamping" is one of the most common jobs for ancient women. Cooked silk is washed in autumn and clothes are sewn in autumn. This painting depicts the situation of women in the Tang Dynasty in such labor operations as pounding, winding, ironing and sewing.

In the painting, the women's lower skirt (usually) is a typical big circle pattern, and the pattern on it may be tie-dyed first, and the embroidery pattern is applied in the place where the tie-dye is left blank.

In addition, the costumes of ladies and knights in You Chuntu, Lady Guo and Lady Hua by Zhang Xuan also reflect the superb art of dyeing Valerian in Tang Dynasty.

During the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, tie-dyeing still followed the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty. "Gu Taoqing Louis" records: "Virtue creates respect and stability, and the ink is light and the yellow flowers are deep. Chen Changda, the second minister, was born in a noble family and a poor family. He has a piano sword to make a tent. " A living poor scholar who is almost crazy about tie-dyed curtains is presented to us vividly. The ancients' love for tie-dyeing was unexpected.

In the Song Dynasty, from the nobles in the palace to the common people, there were tie-dyed artworks everywhere, such as clothes and indoor furniture ornaments. The ancient "Han Xizai's Night Banquet" used big dots on women's tops and bedspreads, which is a typical tie-dyeing technique.

Extremes must be reversed. The imperial edict of the second year of Tiansheng in the Song Dynasty was published in Hefuzhi: "In Beijing, people are not allowed to wear black, brown and white clothes with blue, yellow and purple patterns, and women are not allowed to make clothes with white brown wool and light-colored silk, which will break Kaifeng for ten days." Time-consuming and labor-intensive tie-dyeing gradually faded out of the stage of fabric patterns in Tiansheng two years.

During the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, only local tie-dyeing developed. In the book Broken Gold in Yuan Dynasty, there are varieties of colors such as Tanwa, Shuwa, Jin Wa, Cuwai and Silkworm Valle. Among them, there is "Shu Wei", that is, tie-dyeing in Shu. Due to the large batch of tie-dyeing production in Sichuan, it has formed a unique artistic style and won the appreciation of the royal family, so it has a special name and is recorded in the history books.

In the long history from Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties to Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, tie-dyeing as one of the methods of making fabric patterns has experienced various stages, such as germination, development, prosperity, decline and local preservation, until the existing and widely known traditional tie-dyeing techniques in Zigong, Yunnan and Nantong have provided rich historical materials and artistic practice environment for contemporary tie-dyeing art lovers, which deserves our respect and cherish.

Extended data

Various tie-dyeing methods combined with the use of various dyeing methods make the dyed patterns varied and have amazing artistic charm. Tie-dyeing has a history of about 1500 years in China. The earliest existing physical object is the twisted valerian printed silk in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.

Tie-dyeing reached its peak in the Tang Dynasty, and it became fashionable for nobles to wear twist clothes. In the Northern Song Dynasty, the tie-dyeing process was once banned by the imperial court because of its complicated process and labor consumption, which led to the decline and disappearance of the tie-dyeing process. However, the ethnic minorities in the southwest border still retain this ancient skill.

Besides China, Indian, Japanese, Cambodian, Thai, Indonesian, Malaysian and other countries also have tie-dyed handicrafts. In 1970s, tie-dyeing became a popular handicraft, which was widely used in clothes, ties and wall hanging. Traditional tie-dyeing process can develop from monochrome to multicolor effect by using multiple tie-dyeing processes on the same fabric.

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