What is the difference between the stand-up collar of Hanfu and the stand-up collar of cheongsam?

The development of Han costumes to the Ming Dynasty has achieved great richness, which is unmatched by previous dynasties. Women's robes come in four forms, generally cross-collar (slanted collar), straight collar (double-breasted), plate collar (round collar), and joint collar (high collar). This high collar is what many people call a stand-up collar. This high collar is actually just one variant of the lapel collar. It was popular during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, especially as a home decoration for middle-class women in the South. Its characteristics are: the collar is about an inch high and has one or two collar buttons.

So is the high collar of Han women in the Ming and Qing Dynasties the same as the stand collar of cheongsam? It can only be said that high collars and stand collars are very similar, but if you look closely, there are big differences between them. First of all, the forms are different. The high collars of Han women in the Ming Dynasty usually had no edges or too many decorations, and the corners were linear and naturally smooth. But if you look at the Manchu stand-up collars, they usually have edging. This trend became more and more popular later. In addition, they used the Yuanbao shape and had a certain curvature. This can be seen by comparing it with the Sanniangzi painted by Kang Tao at the same time; secondly, The opening methods are different. Han women's high collars are usually straight and open at the sides. The stand-up collar of Manchu women has an arc around the lapel. Third, the expression forms are different. The high collar of the Han people is more decorative and often comes in two forms: inner shirt and outer shirt. In addition to the inner shirt, there are also styles such as lapels or round necks. It reflects that the clothing of the Ming Dynasty already has the mix-and-match and layered nature of fashion. The Manchu clothing is more practical than decorative as a button, and generally only exists in the form of a single outer shirt.

In addition, the concept of standing collar is actually not correct even if it is generally called the Yuanbao collar of the Qing Dynasty. The stand-up collar specifically refers to the cheongsam collar that was starched to appear stiff after the 1920s and 1930s. And that's not the most important thing. Because the difference between Hanfu and cheongsam is not in the high collar or stand-up collar. The symbol of cheongsam is its fabric buttons and slanted armpit hems. On the other hand, Hanfu has laces and slanted waistline.

The stand-up collar in Han nationality clothing is a stand-up collar, which is characterized by square corners, tall and thin, and the collar is usually decorated with two metal buckles, so this type of clothing is also called "button coat" , first appeared in the mid-Ming Dynasty, and became widely popular in women's clothing by the late Ming Dynasty. Historically, the emergence of the stand-up collar was related to the special climate cooling of the "Little Glacier" at that time. However, judging from the formation structure of the stand-up collar at that time, it was more like It is a variant form of wide cross collar. Due to the so-called "male obedience and female disobedience" in the Eight Banners of Manchuria in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties that forced Han people to "shave their hair and change clothes", Ming stand-up collars and other women's clothing were briefly maintained for a period of time. There are two main styles of Ming stand-up collars: One is a large-breasted coat (i.e. oblique-breasted: it is different from the bannerman's "chang" lapel, which is a straight-line oblique lapel tied to the armpit); the other is a double-breasted coat. By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, that is, the middle and late Qianlong period, with the changes in the entire society, women's vertical collars also began to undergo many changes. First, the height became lower and they were usually edged with dark colors. This kind of collar was replaced by the emerging arc collar in the late Qing Dynasty. Instead of a high-shaped collar, this curved collar is the originator of what is later known as the cheongsam collar. In fact, the robes of the Bannermen were originally collarless. The so-called cheongsam collar was just a product of the Bannermen who borrowed Han women's clothing and added collars to their robes.