Line up for 2 hours, spend 100 yuan to bake oranges! Why is it so hot to make tea around the stove?

In the winter afternoon, about three or five friends sat around the fire, spent three or five hundred yuan, boiled a pot of green tea, and served with roasted things such as chestnuts, sweet potatoes and persimmons, chatting with friends while drinking tea. This winter, cooking tea around the stove has become the new favorite of young people. In Tik Tok, the topic of "cooking tea around the stove" was played more than 3.4 billion times; Searching for "cooking tea around the stove" in Xiaohongshu has more than 6,543,800 related notes.

Why is it so hot to make tea around the stove? Will it become the normal state of offline tea space?

▲ Photo courtesy of respondents

Someone came specifically for "making a movie"

"The form of cooking tea around the stove is very traditional. It used to be relatively small, and now it is really surprising to attract so many young people. " Nanfeng (pseudonym) is currently engaged in tea drinking. I used to make tea with friends in the circle, but most of them were mainly tea tasting. It is the first time for Nanfeng to experience the baked goods like this "cooking tea around the stove", full of winter breath.

Nanfeng works in Chengdu. In June 2022, it became popular to cook tea around the stove. Nanfeng and his friends also wanted to experience it, so they chose a highly recommended teahouse in Xiaohongshu.

"This gives me a good feeling. Usually, people get together for tea, coffee or dessert. This form is a relatively new way of gathering. Besides, it's not expensive to cook tea around the stove. We used to drink tea alone, and the per capita cost was about 100 yuan. The price of cooking tea around the stove is similar. " Nanfeng introduced that they cooked tea around the stove and spent less than 100 yuan per capita. There are sweet potatoes, potatoes, chestnuts, peanuts, oranges, persimmons and some snacks, such as raisins, dried apricots and melon seeds.

In the south wind's view, compared with traditional tea tasting, cooking tea around the stove is more interesting and has a stronger sense of atmosphere. Friends gathering in autumn and winter is a good choice. "And it's good to cook tea around the stove. A friend of mine went to take pictures at that time, and some people specially wore Hanfu to experience it. " The south wind said.

Mr. Chen of Liupanshui, Guizhou also thinks that in the cold winter, it is very pleasant for two or three friends to cook hot ginger tea and bake snacks such as egg tarts and longan around the stove. "Chatting is very comfortable, and hot food warms the heart. The price is also right, and the average person's money for a cup of milk tea is enough. " Not long ago, Mr. Chen and his friends just experienced a cooking stove in a local teahouse, and three people spent 69 yuan.

▲ Photo courtesy of respondents

However, not everyone's experience of cooking tea around the stove is beautiful. Zhongxin Jingwei noticed that on social platforms such as Tik Tok and Xiaohongshu, many netizens complained that cooking tea around the stove in reality was far from what they saw in their circle of friends. Some people think that cooking tea around the stove should be called "taking pictures around the stove"

Nanfeng also encountered some minor problems when cooking tea around the stove. "Teahouse stove is small, the heat source is not enough, baked oranges and persimmons are ok, and sweet potatoes are difficult to cook. I think it is more appropriate to make tea outside around the stove. If it is a charcoal stove, there will be smoke indoors. At that time, we just thought the indoor smoke was too thick, so we chose the outdoor location. It wasn't very cold at that time, and it was still very warm to have a sip of tea. " The south wind said.

It is difficult to "surround" without making an appointment on weekends.

The rise of cooking tea around the stove has also made some offline tea spaces smell business opportunities. Zhongxin Jingwei noticed that in Beijing, in addition to teahouses, cafes, dessert shops, etc., they also launched tea cooking packages around the stove, and the per capita consumption was mostly 100-200 yuan.

Recently, Zhongxin Jingwei called a teahouse in Beijing as a consumer. The relevant staff said that there are indeed many customers around the stove to make tea recently, especially on Saturday and Sunday. If you don't make an appointment in advance, it's difficult to ensure that there are seats available on that day. "We all prepare ingredients as agreed. If you don't make an appointment, it is very likely that the position on that day is full, or there are no ingredients. It is best to call us one day in advance to confirm. " The staff member said.

Zhongxin Jingwei saw on the US delegation that the teahouse launched a number of group purchase packages, including a limited double package for cooking tea around the stove in autumn and winter. The group purchase price is 352 yuan, including tea, handmade Chinese cakes, seasonal fruits, rice cakes and other things baked around the stove. Calculated, the average per capita reached 176 yuan, with 75 transactions in the last six months.

Coffee shops and dessert shops are relatively cheap to make tea around the stove. Take a high-rated dessert shop of Meituan in Beijing as an example. The group purchase price of this store's "Good Peanut Tea for Two" is 198 yuan. According to the per capita 99 yuan, 68 orders have been sold in the last six months. Its staff said that under normal circumstances, there will be more consumers coming to the store to make tea on weekends. "There will be fewer people before two o'clock in the afternoon on weekends, and there will be more people after two o'clock, so you need to queue up, maybe for two hours at most."

The staff of a coffee shop in Beijing also said that on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, they went to the store to make tea around the stove, and basically had to queue up. "Mainly because this period of time around the stove to make tea hot. Many people come to take pictures and punch in. In addition, everyone is' Yang Kang' recently, and there are more people coming out to play on weekends. " The staff of the cafe said. Zhongxin Jingwei noticed that in addition to the tea-making package with per capita 100 yuan, the cafe also introduced Hanfu experience, small-scale shooting and other charging items.

It is worth mentioning that most of the tea-making packages launched by offline stores have a time limit, generally 2-3 hours, and extra fees will be charged beyond the specified time, ranging from 30- 100 yuan/hour.

The heat of cooking tea around the stove is rising, attracting more and more merchants to join. The data shows that from 65438+February 2022 to the present, the number of entities that have added the service of "cooking tea around the stove" in public comments has increased by 326% compared with the same period of165438+1October; Since June 1 1, the search popularity of cooking tea around the stove on this platform has increased by 1 1.7 times compared with last year.

"There are currently three or four such' cooking tea around the stove' shops in our fourth-and fifth-tier cities, and the business is also good. Like the store we went to two days ago, we sometimes have to make an appointment one day in advance on weekends, otherwise there will be no place. " Mr. Chen said.

Nanfeng said that for teahouses, the cost of cooking tea around the stove is not high, just need to prepare more fruits, dry goods and ovens, so businesses are willing to try.

▲ Photo courtesy of respondents

A gust of wind or an industry trend?

Actually, it's nothing new to make tea around the stove. As early as the Song Dynasty, there was a form of brew tea. After tea leaves are crushed, boiled, stirred and filtered, the tea soup is poured into a teacup for drinking. After drinking tea, I added some tea and fruit snacks, and three or five friends sat around and recited poems.

Today, the forms of cooking tea around the stove are also varied. In the eyes of some people, cooking tea around the fire today is more like "roasting tea in a fire pond" in Yunnan. Fireplace is an indispensable thing in Yunnan people's life. People use it for heating and lighting, cooking food, and baking food directly on charcoal fire.

Zhu Xiangzhong, food industry analyst and vice president of Guangdong Food Safety Protection Promotion Association, introduced that cooking tea around the stove is actually just a scene innovation, which makes this tea drinking form more topical and social, catering to and matching the core needs and demands of the new generation of consumer groups, which is an important reason for the popularity of cooking tea around the stove.

The person in charge of Meituan's emerging gameplay project also mentioned that the market has seen the emotional value contained in the way China people drink tea around the stove. "First, this product is enough to make people curious. Charcoal stoves, teapots and baked goods can simply create the atmosphere and sense of ceremony in China's traditional life and meet the needs of taking photos and punching cards. On the other hand, it provides a comfortable and warm social way. Experiencing slow life has become the core meaning, and it has also pinned consumers' yearning for' quiet years'. "

In the south wind's view, the rise of cooking tea around the stove also reflects the recognition of traditional tea culture by young consumers to some extent. "In recent years, consumers are increasingly pursuing health and wellness, and their love for tea is gradually increasing. In fact, before cooking tea around the stove, there were signs of fire in the teahouse. In the past, everyone would go to cafes, and now many consumers will choose new teahouses. " The south wind said.

Teahouses have a long history in China. Today, teahouses have both commercial and leisure attributes, and some enterprises are sought after by capital. According to tianyancha APP, from 20 19 to 2022, the new teahouse brand teastone has received four rounds of financing, with a single round of financing amounting to tens of millions of yuan. Investors include Tongchuang Ye Wei and Metasequoia Investment. 202 1, T9 received tens of millions of Pre-A financing from Qingrui Venture Capital; 202 1, one tea and one house received millions of angel rounds of financing, and the investors included fresh capital and kiss food.

"With the successful application of China tea, cooking tea in the future is definitely a major consumption trend." The south wind said. It is reported that on129 October, 2022, 165438+ China declared "China's traditional tea-making skills and related customs", which passed the evaluation and was included in the UNESCO representative list of human intangible cultural heritage.

"Cooking tea around the stove has changed young people's perception of drinking tea. This brand-new tea culture will not be very stressful for young people, and everyone is more willing to try. Perhaps in the future, young people will like tea culture because of this experience, and the significance of cooking tea around the stove will be achieved. " Tian Yuanyuan, founder of Sikou Tian Yue Tea Culture Slow Life Museum, said.

However, offline teahouses have some limitations in cooking tea around the stove. For example, some stores only pay attention to creating a sense of atmosphere, but they don't export enough tea and traditional tea culture, and consumers' live experience is poor. On social media, some netizens said "I won't go there for the second time" after experiencing cooking tea around the stove.

Bai Wenxi, vice chairman of China Enterprise Capital Alliance and chief economist of IPG China, said that cooking tea around the stove can indeed be combined with tea culture to create new consumption scenes and better promote tea culture. However, this form needs to be further improved.

"As a trend demand, cooking tea around the stove can really attract many businesses to enter the market in the short term, but in order to achieve long-term operation and large-scale development, we must explore and cultivate from the aspects of scene, socialization and even catering, instead of a gust of wind. Punch consumption. " Bai Wen likes to say.

Zhu also mentioned that with the injection of traditional culture, cooking tea around the stove has more connotations and will go deeper and more "professional". The mutual drainage of traditional culture and online media may make cooking tea around the stove become a new trend of drinking tea.