How did the costumes of our country's dynasties evolve?

Dress pattern originated from life, dress pattern formed in people's concepts, therefore, as a dress pattern originated from life and formed in the concepts, naturally, with the continuous progress of society and people's concepts and the continuous development of the development of society. Shang Dynasty Dress Patterns China's dress patterns have a long history after thousands of years of development. Dress pattern according to the initial examination shows that there are written records of the Shang Dynasty. At that time, the slave owners wore clothes with thunder tortoise pattern. Pattern decoration is mainly manifested in the clothing collar, cuffs, lapel, hem, pants and other edges of the corner and belt; the form of expression is mainly a rule back to the tortoise, rhombus pattern, cloud and thunder pattern, and it is a two-sided continuous composition form to show. This shows that the primitive ancestors in China not only designed and made the more fitting clothes with patterns, but also could use design skills to decorate the clothes. To this day, this form of bipartite continuous composition is still commonly used in clothing pattern design, and at the same time, it is not uncommon in other modeling designs. From the point of view of the decorative patterns of the costumes from the slave society to the feudal society, they were mainly inspired by the pleasure of animal shapes, but the subjective colors were not strong, and they were a kind of reproduction of natural objects. Patterns in the performance of clothing, mainly cloud thunder pattern, back to the tortoise pattern, geometric pattern is mainly. The use of patterns is much more ingenious than that on bronzes. The cloud and thunder pattern on the bronzes of the slave society appeared as the base pattern, and the main pattern was based on the animal face pattern, while the cloud and thunder pattern on the costumes appeared as the main pattern. With the development of society, people's pursuit of patterns showed a subjective consciousness, which is also the budding consciousness of totem. At that time, people put some animals as totem worship (such as birds, fish, tigers, etc.), its pattern first in the artifacts used by people (wine, tableware, household items) on the performance, but soon reflected in the dress. In the Shang Dynasty, men and women used a variety of jade ornaments, hat ornaments, dental scallops, etc. also have this imprint. Zhou Dynasty dress pattern By the Zhou Dynasty, with the social changes, the development of productivity, the textile industry came into being, so the appearance of gorgeous dark silk and colorful embroidery. People used it to make garments, and thus the coronet appeared. Yu Shu - Yiji" chapter recorded: "I want to look at the image of the ancients, the sun, the moon, the stars ...... With five colorful commendation applied to the five colors, make clothes you Ming." Here said with five colors applied to the clothes, that is, twelve chapters of floral pattern with painting and embroidery method applied to the coronet, indicating that the dress pattern at that time has been very characteristic. From the twelve chapters of the pattern form and symbolism, these patterns did not discharge the people at that time the psychology of totem worship, at the same time, also shows that people are not only the totem worship as the only dress pattern decoration, and has been able to use a variety of nature to decorate their own patterns, showing the aesthetic consciousness of the people of the slave society. However, this kind of aesthetic consciousness has social limitations, which is mainly manifested in the hierarchical difference between slave owners and slaves. That is to say, the ruling class regarded these patterns as class divisions, which made the originally natural and beautiful objects covered with strong class colors. For example, the son of heaven dress can enjoy the twelve chapters of the pattern; the vassals from the dragon gun and down to embroidery, the scholar dress algae, fire, the great doctor plus powder rice. In this regard, we see that this period of dress pattern in the design of attention to the performance of art, as a cultural performance, showing that people's aesthetic awareness has improved greatly. Costume Patterns in the Warring States Period The Warring States Period was a period of great change in ancient Chinese society, in the ideological field, a hundred schools of thought rose, the sons of war, social trends and concepts were unprecedentedly active. At this time, the decorative motifs of artifacts changed considerably: the strict Taotie and coiled chi dragon motifs gave way to the lively and vibrant human themes, and the strict designs on clothing became more expansive. From the point of view of the costume patterns of the Warring States period, many of the graphics are no longer direct depictions of natural objects, but variations of natural objects. This shows that people added their own subjective aesthetic consciousness to the design of patterns, and more idealized things. This not only shows the improvement of people's aesthetic interest, but also makes the dress pattern has a high artistic appreciation value. Everything has a process of occurrence, development and gradual improvement. During the Warring States period, the dress pattern experienced the development process from Yin Shang to Zhou, which made the dress pattern reach a high level in design form. People began to change the strict and delicate design style to pursue a lively and generous form of artistic expression. Influenced by the art of Qin Wadang, the costume pattern began to pay attention to the totality of the artistic image, rather than sticking to the details and local portrayal. In the artistic treatment, the contrasting techniques of using fewer than many, taking the real with the imaginary, and modeling the generalization and realism to express the beauty of simplicity and simplicity. This kind of style ups and downs is inseparable from the people's active thinking at that time, which shows that the progress of culture is inevitably manifested in the material. If the dress pattern before the Warring States period was characterized by strict planning, then after the unification of the Qin Dynasty, the dress pattern was bright, generous, lively and unrestrained to express life. Han Dynasty Dress Patterns The Han Dynasty continued the dress style of the Warring States period, and tended to be more atmospheric, bright, concise and varied in the pursuit of patterns. From the change of shoes, it is close to the style of our modern shoes and boots, which shows that the dress at that time was more developed. At this time, in the decoration of clothing fabric patterns, a change in the Shang, Zhou Dynasty, the center of symmetry, repeated successive patterns of the organizational form, but to overlap and entangle, up and down the interspersed, the four sides of the extension of the composition appeared, and fantasy and romanticism, unconventional deformation, the formation of a lively cloud pattern, bird pattern and dragon pattern pattern. It is characterized by the use of flowing arcs extending up and down, left and right arbitrarily, and the lines at the turns are thickened or small blocks are added, emphasizing the dynamic lines and enriching the image. In the silk paintings unearthed in Changsha's Mawangdui, the image depicted in the clothing pattern is "S" shaped cloud pattern. This "S"-shaped pattern is characterized by the vividness of the left, right, up and down echoing each other and circling back and forth. Its lines thick and thin with the size of the interspersed, in contrast to the unity of the pattern in the law of formal beauty, a new creation. The weaving and embroidery techniques of the Han Dynasty show that this period was the first flourishing period in the history of dyeing and weaving in China, and the fabric varieties and pattern layouts reached a high level. Changsha Mawangdui unearthed cloud pattern, its line stretching smooth, strong sense of movement, with the "S" shape. It can be seen that the Han Dynasty cloud pattern at this time there is a new development, that is, in the up and down, left and right arbitrary extension of the line produced the rhythm of the virtual and real, but also to freely extend the "S" shaped skeleton to show a kind of atmospheric, coordinated aesthetics, for the later art modeling design laid the foundation. Known for its lightness, delicacy and chicness, the lacquerware craft also reached its peak in the Han Dynasty. The craftsmanship was precise, and the decorative patterns were mainly stretching and flowing deformed cloud patterns, animal patterns, plant patterns, geometric patterns, but the lacquer crafts were more cloud patterns. In the Han Dynasty, the use of color in clothing patterns was mainly based on contrast, emphasizing bright, eye-catching, gorgeous, showing the characteristics of beauty in the plain. This feature is also used by people in modern dress design. During the Han Dynasty, in addition to the continued use of twelve chapter patterns, clothing as a symbol of the power and status of the ruling class, the significance of the more intense. For this reason, a variety of craftsmen in order to meet the needs of the rulers, in the design of the dress pattern more pursuit of the aesthetic value of art, the pattern is not only to meet the deformation of a variety of natural objects, but to adapt to the needs of the ruling class. In the choice of pattern modeling, highlighting the symbolism of the dragon and phoenix. It can also be seen from the pattern modeling that the dragon and phoenix at that time already had a high degree of artistic expression. In the performance of dress pattern, the dragon and phoenix pattern not only has a strong craftsmanship, decorative features, more aesthetic value, but also in the design of the pursuit of artistic modeling perfection. In summary, the above shows that the use of dress pattern has gone through the most primitive pursuit of an obscurantist beauty, the worship of totem, power, status symbols of such a development process, has reached the human subjective artistic processing, creation of the situation. That is to say, the pattern as a dress decoration is not only a symbol of beauty, but more prominently demonstrated its artistic appreciation value, although it is covered with a layer of power hierarchy (i.e., the color of the class). For this reason, we say that the use of dress patterns to the Han Dynasty, has had a higher artistic expression. Wei, Jin period of dress pattern Wei, Jin period of dress pattern in addition to continue to follow the artistic style since the Han Dynasty, in the design of the line tends to be rough, giving people a sense of fat. In the pattern of costumes, it is not deliberately pursuing the localization, but mainly pursuing the overall line beauty of the costumes and the floating beauty, so as to express the aesthetic effect of the costumes. Such as in the clothing appeared in the stretch, flowing large skirt, loose cuffs, are to the overall modeling beauty to express the life. At that time, people in the overall performance of clothing to plump, fat, flowing for the fashion. Sui Dynasty Dress Patterns By the Sui Dynasty, even though Sui ruled for only 37 years, the expression of dress tended to be flashy, and the use of pattern motifs was still much more cloudy. This style of ostentation continued into the Tang Dynasty. Can be seen in the dress decoration, the Sui dynasty dress pattern has amazing achievements, dress pattern depicted in colorful clothes, there are joint pearl dress pattern, lion phoenix dress pattern, group of flowers brocade pattern pattern, its color and lustre of gold shining, comparable to the real brocade. These patterns are representative of the Sui Dynasty dress patterns. Their skills are highly skillful, and the patterns are novel and chic. In the diamond-shaped format, covered with white lianzhu and yellow cloudy wave patterns, the lions and phoenixes are accompanied by lonicera scrolling leaves and regimental flowers. Squatting lion and light and dancing phoenix, symmetrical, continuous, staggered arrangement, the image is clear, beautiful, vivid, is the Sui dynasty brocade pattern in rare fine. Tang Dynasty Costume Patterns Tang Dynasty, is the heyday of China's feudal society, both people's thinking, or material production has reached a historical peak. Beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the craft decoration generally used flower pattern, its composition is lively and free, sparse and dense, plump and rounded. Especially after the combination of wave-like continuous pattern and flowers and plants, it is the Tang Dynasty prevailing twining branch pattern. Tang Dynasty dress pattern, changed the previous kind of creative ideas with the gift of God, with real flowers, grass, fish, insects for sketching, but the traditional dragon, phoenix pattern has not been excluded, which is also determined by the influence of the imperial power of God. At this time, the design of dress patterns tended to show a free, plump and fat artistic style. Late Tang Dynasty dress pattern is more delicate and beautiful. Flower and bird dress pattern, border pattern, group flower dress pattern in the silk gauze on the soft clothing, it is really flowery, compete with each other. As Wang Jian of the Fifth Dynasty said: ″Lo shirt leaf leaves embroidered heavy, gold phoenix silver goose each a bush, every dance time two directions, peace long live the word in the middle. ″Today, we see these gorgeous and beautiful dress patterns, is the painters in the Dunhuang Grottoes with hard labor for the future people to retain the precious image of the information. The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty was an overall development, when the design of clothing patterns tended to express freedom, fullness, flamboyance, roundness, in shoes, hats, scarves, jade pendants, hairstyles, make-up, and jewelry performance, all of which illustrate this feature. From the style of shoes, the Tang Dynasty prevalent warped round head shoes, exquisite workmanship, even the straw shoes are also pay attention to the craftsmanship. The pattern of silk shoes was embroidered as a tiger's head, which was similar to the pattern of tiger's head shoes worn by children in Shandong, only that the tips of tiger's head shoes worn by children in rural areas of Shandong were not so upward. The similarity between the style of men's shoes and modern shoes shows that the development of shoes had reached its peak at that time. The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States, Wei and Jin Dynasties, combining the rigor of the Zhou Dynasty's dress pattern design, the stretching of the Warring States Period, the brightness of the Han Dynasty, and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, so that the dresses and dress patterns reached the peak of the history; the Tang Dynasty's dresses and dress patterns have continued to have an influence on the future generations until today. The use of twining branch pattern in modern dress pattern demonstrates the implication of the combination of traditional pattern and modern aesthetic sense. Costume Patterns of the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties Costume patterns of the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties showed different kinds of decorative styles on the basis of the increasing realism of the Tang Dynasty. The dresses of this period, bearing the form of the previous generation, not only developed the cloud pattern into the cloud pattern, but also made more use of the "auspicious pattern". With the social and cultural, economic development, people's vision is broader, clothing accessories design more up, especially in the Song Dynasty, began to focus on the decorative effect of turban such ornaments. Turban, i.e., the first garment worn when wearing public and regular clothes, is also known as the folded-up scarf, because it is a folded and upward scarf style. While inheriting the pattern of the previous generation, the Ming Dynasty pattern created and enriched the harmonic pattern and allegorical figure. For the Ming Dynasty Ming Xianzong Chenghua Emperor's regular clothes. He wore a good crown on his head, wearing a full cloud pattern lined with a group of dragons and twelve chapters of the pattern of the dress, the crown with a yarn, folded corner upward, after the name of the wing good crown; robes with yellow, plate collar and narrow sleeves, before and after and on each shoulder embroidered with a gold disk dragon one; with peyote, boots for the leather of the. The emperor often dress with cloud pattern and twelve chapters of the various patterns, allegory of the emperor's talent and virtue, civil and military, can call the wind and rain, is imagined personified God. Ming Dynasty crown system provides that the emperor in the rituals and ceremonies and deal with government to wear robes with dragon pattern. Ming Shenzong Wanli Emperor Shou Halloween (i.e., birthday) worn by the dragon robe and Emperor Xianzong dragon robe is similar, only full of cloud pattern pattern is full of allegorical patterns instead. Its decorative embellishment is only one aspect, and pattern moral connotation is more profound, only in the Ming Wanshou clothing dress pattern a pattern, the good moral pattern is so rich. In addition, along with the development of, such as osmanthus and wan nianqing, meaning rich and valuable wan nianqing; sun and phoenix, meaning phoenix and sunrise; lotus and carp, meaning year after year; goldfish and begonias, meaning jin yu mantang; bats and clouds, meaning the blessing from heaven. There are many other such allegorical patterns, some of which are still in use today. As can be seen from the above diagram, whether it is a group of dragons, sitting dragons, or walking dragons, all show a programmed modeling, cloud patterns, plant patterns, bird patterns, fish patterns also tend to be realistic, showing the characteristics of programmed modeling. The dress of the Qing Dynasty is the peak of the development of China's clothing, clothing patterns at this time the decorative role has reached the peak of the degree of excellence. If the successive generations of clothing patterns have a certain development, there is still room for creativity, then, to the Qing Dynasty, the decorative pattern of the dress is a complicated pile. If the development of the Qing dynasty costumes and costumes of the past dynasties are different, then, here to say, is a variety of clothing accessories perfect, complicated pattern, and the concept of hierarchy in the pattern of the reflection of the more strict and clear. The dress of the Qing Dynasty, in addition to the attire of the previous generation, mainly in the decorative objects more complete, such as clothing appeared in the horseshoe sleeves of the blouse, appeared in the vest (shoulders). In the design of the pattern inherited twelve chapters of the pattern, in the Ming Dynasty on the basis of the eight auspicious patterns, set the decorative role of the pattern of energy, so that it has reached the degree of complexity.

Remember to adopt ah