History of ancient Chinese costumes

In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up "Si Fu" and "Nei Si"

"In office, in charge of the royal dress. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, China's crown service system was initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and was perfected in the Zhou Dynasty, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Royal officials and ministers show their respect.

Your Majesty, in different ceremonial occasions, the crown should be crowned in an orderly way, and different forms, colors and patterns should be adopted in dress and dressing. The most famous is the twelve chapters in the Book of History and Arts: "Sun, Moon, Stars, Mountains, Dragons and China".

Insect painting, Zong Yi, seaweed, fire, pink rice, blessing characters and blessing embroidery are displayed in colorful colors as clothing. "Chapter 12 Tattoos became the service system of the emperor's coat, which continued until the abdication of the Qing emperor and the restoration of Yuan Shikai as emperor. Zhou Cong

Judging from the unearthed humanoid cultural relics, although the costumes are decorated differently, they are clear from top to bottom, laying the foundation for the basic shape of China costumes.

Spring and Autumn Warring States Costume (770 BC ~ 22 BC1year) Spring and Autumn Period

During the Warring States period, the great progress of weaving and embroidery technology made the clothing materials more and more fine, and the varieties and names were more and more. Brocade in Xiangyi, Henan, ice dance, romance and embroidery in Qilu, Shandong are popular all over the country. The spread of technology makes it diversified and refined.

Beautiful clothes stand out. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, not only the princes themselves were luxuriantly dressed, but even the courtiers Ke Qing wore pearls and jade around their waists, and clothes, crowns and shoes were very expensive. The ancients wore jade articles, respected and humbled them, and endowed them with personality images.

Sign. As far as influence is concerned, people in the upper class, both men and women, should wear several pieces or groups of exquisite carved Yu Pei. The sword was a new weapon at that time. In order to show courage and self-defense, nobles must wear swords inlaid with gold and jade. Waist belt return

Various hooks are popular and compete with each other. Men's and women's hats are more eye-catching, with delicate veils as thin as cicadas and precious pearls and jade; Some are shaped like cups. Shoes are mostly made of small deerskin, or woven with silk thread and fine straw.

Cheng; In winter, fur coats are extremely thick, and white fox fur is worth thousands of dollars. Women like to make the front of the cuffs with fur, and thin and gorgeous gloves with half exposed fingers, which are extremely beautiful. Clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the width of the upper class.

The narrowness of the rich and the lower classes has become very different. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of domestic literati and the dresses of Shu Ren people. They are unisex and may have been formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. In the past, the handles of deep clothes were separated.

The independent jacket and the lower skirt are combined into one, but the boundary line remains two, and the upper and lower parts are not stitched, and the width is not wide. The most ingenious design is to embed a rectangular piece of cloth at the junction of waist seam and sleeve seam under two armpits, which can make a plane.

Three-dimensional tailoring can perfectly express people's body shape, and the sleeves also have greater elbow function. According to records, there are four different names for deep clothes: deep clothes, long clothes, linen clothes and medium clothes. Judging from the unearthed objects, the clothes of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period

There are many kinds of clothes in the first part, which are widely used. Some of them can be regarded as variants of deep clothes. In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu to promote Khufu's riding and shooting. Khufu refers to the costumes of the "Hu people" at that time, similar to taking off the coat in the Central Plains.

Clothing varies greatly, characterized by knee-length clothes, a belt around the waist, hooks and boots, which are convenient for riding and shooting activities. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing styles were unprecedentedly rich and varied, including deep clothes and Hu clothes. Happy people have hoods.

Yes, the sleeves of dancers are several feet long. Some people often wear horns or magpie tails, long skirts with small sleeves and skirts with diagonal arms. These are all related to the colorful social life.

Qin and Han Dynasty clothes (BC

22 1 ~ A.D. 220) Compared with the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the clothing materials in this period were richer, and the deep clothes also got new development. Especially in the Han dynasty, with the establishment of the clothing system, the distinction between official ranks and grades of clothing was more strict. Qinhanfu

The fabric is still thick and gorgeous. Embroidery patterns are mostly mountain clouds, birds and animals or vines. Brocade has various complicated geometric diamond patterns, and the whole pattern is woven with words. Jianyuan three years (BC 138) and Yuanshou four years (BC

1 19), Zhang Qian was ordered to go to the western regions twice, which opened up the land passage between China and western countries. Throughout the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, thousands of silks were exported continuously, which was called the "Silk Road" in history. Therefore, China clothing.

Spread all over the world. Since the Qin and Han dynasties, there have been some developments and changes in deep clothing. Judging from the upper class in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the general cut robes were institutionalized. There is not much difference between the clothing system in Qin Dynasty and the Warring States Period, which ensures that China's clothing keeps the basic form of deep clothing. western

China men's and women's clothing is still in the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together.

For the same suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "boasting clothes and big skirts". The first step is to wear different shoes. Belt. In the Qin dynasty, clothes were black. In the Han Dynasty, there was a clothing system. History books list dresses, court clothes,

There are more than 20 kinds of uniforms. The grade difference in clothing is very obvious. The main manifestations are as follows: ① On the basis of inheriting the old system, the crown service has developed into a basic symbol to distinguish grades; (2) The matching system was established as a symbol to distinguish official ranks.

Wei State (AD 220-265)

Costumes in the Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties (220 ~ 589) During the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, grade costumes changed and national costumes merged. The crown hat has been replaced by towels used by scholars, such as horn towels, water chestnut towels, purple nylon towels, white nylon towels and so on.

Towels, etc. Wei Chu and Cao Wen have formulated a nine-product official system, which takes purple, red and green as the difference of nine products. Since then, this system has been used in successive dynasties until the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. In the Jin Dynasty, the first dress had an official position, except that the towel was used by the society.

Some men still wear small crowns, and the lacquer sarong crowns with gauze hats on them were originally made by warriors of the Han Dynasty and passed down from generation to generation, not only for male officials, but also for the people and men and women. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, northern minorities entered the Central Plains.

People live in different places, politics, economy and cultural customs permeate each other, forming a situation of great integration, and clothing is also easy to develop. The folds of northern national shorts have gradually become the mainstream, and both men and women can wear them, regardless of grade. women's clothes

"Thrift on frugality". From the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the period of Qi and Liang Dynasties, dresses were skirts, which originated in the Han Dynasty. In the Jin dynasty, it had the characteristics of short coat and wide skirt. There was a time when full-toe shoes and high-toothed shoes (a kind of lacquer-painted clogs) were popular.

On the other hand, influenced by the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, ethnic minorities wear Hanfu. In the 18th year of Taihe (494), after Xianbei Northern Wei moved its capital to Luoyang, Emperor Xiaowen of Wei promoted the policy of sinicization and changed his surname to Tuoba, leading a group of people.

I was dressed in the Han and Wei Dynasties. "It turns out that Xianbei people are wearing small sleeve clothes with collars. This reform of the old customs, called "filial piety reform", has enabled the old system of crown clothing to continue since the Qin and Han Dynasties and promoted the development of China's clothing culture.

Sui dynasty

Tang Zhuang (58 1 ~ 907) During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stabilized by war and prospered economically and culturally. The development of clothing presents an unprecedented brilliant scene in materials and styles. Jincai, yes.

Five-color silk woven into various patterns is often used as the half arm and collar edge of a dress. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors. Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing flowers

Patterns are divided into multicolor overprint and monochrome dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades.

Use patterns to indicate grades. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties was full of fashion flavor, which often developed from palace women's clothing to folk, and was imitated in succession, and was often influenced by northwest nationalities. The most fashionable dress for women in Sui and Tang Dynasties was Yan.

Skirts, that is, tops and long skirts, are tied with ribbons at the waist, almost to the armpits. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and there is a small belt.

When the chest is tied. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle with flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder, and one end was fixed on the chest belt of the half arm.

In fact, it is draped over the shoulders and twisted between the arms. This is called silk. Women's hair accessories in Tang Dynasty are various, each with its own name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of splendid fabrics, colored silks and leather. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities.

Like other foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia, Khufu's new clothes were very popular during the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan.

The costumes of the Song, Liao, Xia, Jin and Yuan Dynasties (947 ~ 1368) basically retained the style of Han costumes in the Song Dynasty.

The costumes in Liao, Xixia and Jinyuan periods have the characteristics of Qidan, Tangut, Jurchen and Mongolian respectively. National costumes are once again exchanged and integrated. There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. Official clothing noodles in song dynasty

Luo is the main material. Because of the five generations old system, the government (crab) gives the pro-expensive ministers brocade robes in seven different colors every year. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being above three grades, Zhu being above five grades, green being above seven grades and above nine grades.

Serve green. The style of official dress is similar to that of long-sleeved official dress in late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress (crown hat, etc.). ) It is already a flat-winged black silk hat, named Straight Foot, which has been customized. The official clothes of the Song Dynasty followed the system of wearing fish in the Tang Dynasty and were qualified.

Officials in purple and scarlet uniforms must wear a "fish bag" around their waist, which contains fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. "Curved collar in the square" is also a feature of the imperial costume, that is, the ornaments under the circle are placed on the items of the imperial costume. Song dynasty

In addition to official clothes and uniforms, everyday casual clothes are mainly small sleeve T-shirts and soft-winged hoes, which are still Tang-style, but they are replaced with casual shoes that are more convenient for daily life. The representative dress of the old people in the Song Dynasty is the standing collar (cross collar).

Wide sleeve gown Dongpo towel. The robe was edged with dark cloth to keep the ancient style. Dongpo towel is a square tube-shaped towel, which was created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. In fact, it is the revival of ancient towels, which were often worn by old gentry in the Ming Dynasty.

Folk first clothes were also very popular in Song Dynasty. Men are popular with hoes and scarves, while women are popular with crowns and hijabs. Women's hair style and corolla were the focus of people's pursuit of beauty at that time, which best reflected the changes of clothing in Song Dynasty. Women in Tang and Five Dynasties

Corolla has become more and more dangerous, and the corolla in Song Dynasty has further developed and changed. It's no surprise to put a flower-and-bird comb in your bun. Liao, Xixia and Jin were the regimes established by the Khitan, Tangut and Jurchen in ancient China.

Decoration reflects the development track of carrying forward the national tradition in the long-term cultural exchange with the Han nationality. Tangut women wear Hu clothes with lapels and the neckline is beautifully embroidered. Khitans and jurchen usually wear narrow-sleeved round neck and knee-length coats with the first step.

Wearing boots, suitable for shooting and hunting at once; Women wear long gowns with narrow sleeves and collars, and they are all left-handed. Contrary to the Han people, the fishing piers they used to wear are widely popular in the mainland. The Liao-Jin regime took into account the place where the Han people lived together.

In reality, there is a system of "southern officials". Han people are ruled by Han people, and the old system of official uniforms in Tang and Song dynasties is adopted for Han officials. The embroidery patterns of mountains, rivers, birds and beasts on the silk official uniforms in Liao Dynasty distinguished official products, which affected the grade identification of official uniforms in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

In the Jin Dynasty, the rank was determined by the size of the pattern on the official clothes, and the lowest rank was sesame with no pattern or small diamond pattern. The men's wear of Khitan and Jurchen is also adopted by Han people because it is easy to move. The first year of the Yuan Dynasty was extended (13 14), giving consideration to ancient and modern Mongolia.

The Hanfu system has unified regulations on the colors of the upper and lower officials and the people. In the Han dynasty, the official uniforms were mostly Tang-style round collars and hoes; Mongolian officials wear collared clothes and square corrugated hats; The middle and lower floors are the most fashionable to ride at once.

Braided clothes (round neck tight sleeve robe, wide hem, pleated waist), hat. The textiles in the Yuan Dynasty include Nashijin, Hunjintiezi, Jindianzi, Douluojin, III. Daling, Xiaoling, Nansi, Beisi and Mu.

Brocade, brocade ... all kinds of names. During the Yuan Dynasty, there were 10 many times a year. At that time, thousands of officials wore high-grade dresses with the same color and style and decorated with gems and jewels, which was called high-quality sun clothes, which was rare in past dynasties. this

In the Ming dynasty, this kind of clothing was used as the official clothing.

Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368 ~1911) was dominated by traditional Han costumes in Ming Dynasty, and Manchu costumes were the mainstream in Qing Dynasty. And the next two generations.

All the clothes have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. Ming dynasty

Because the emperor's surname is Zhu, Zhu is a positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius has "evil purple takes Zhu also", the purple color was cancelled from the official dress. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is about 40 ~ 50 cm square.

Silk material is embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and the other on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. Usually, T-shirts are distinguished by the length of clothes and the size of sleeves. Those who grow up

Respect. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded towels, and the wings of his hat stood up from behind. The official robe wears lacquered yarn with spreading wings and often wears his duties. The wives and mothers of officials who were sealed by the imperial edict,

There is also a red dress with big sleeves, stripes and decorations of different grades, and various skins. In addition, high heels have been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. The clothes of ordinary people in Ming Dynasty were long, short, blouse or skirt.

Inherited the old tradition, and the variety is very rich. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown. The hats of ordinary people are old except since the Tang and Song Dynasties.

Sample is still popular, Zhu Yuanzhang and personally formulated two kinds, promulgated in the country, widely implemented. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called a square nipple; One is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means universal.

Peace, the world is unified. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. Shunzhi nine years (1652),

The royal decree "Regulations on Wearing Colored epaulettes" was promulgated, and the crown clothes with strong colors of Han nationality were abolished from then on. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing dynasty, the hair was weak, the braids hung behind the head, and thin clothes were worn.

Horseshoe sleeves, tight socks, deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different. The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. Jacket is a coat added to a robe, named after it originated from riding clothes. It is characterized by front and back slits and large breasts.

Nail azurite to make up the son (the prince and the county king use circles to make up). Buzi's bird and beast patterns and order are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. The official hats of the Qing Dynasty are absolutely different from those of previous dynasties. All military and political personnel, such as non-commissioned officers and officers, wear small weft like hats.

Hats are divided into warm hats and cool hats in winter and summer. According to different grades, they are fitted with "coats" of different colors and materials, and a bunch of peacock feathers are dragged behind the hat. Feather is called Hualing, and advanced feathers have "eyes" (round spots on feathers) and single ones.

Eyes, eyes, eyes are different, eyes are more expensive. Only princes or ministers who have made outstanding achievements are rewarded. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors are gradually becoming popular among officials and gentry.

Popular, become a general dress. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. Silk weaving, embroidery, dyeing, and the progress of various handicrafts are all clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty.

Abundance creates conditions. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After drying, the clothes get fatter and shorter, the cuffs get wider and wider, and then

Add cloud shoulders, and there is no end to renovation; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most of the expensive clothes were spent on them. Manchu women wear "flag clothes", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two ends), and wear

"Flower pot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so-called cheongsam circulated in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies of the Han nationality.