What is the development of brocade in Qing Dynasty?

Brocade is the most famous traditional silk fabric in China, and it is also an important product in the traditional silk fabric of Qing Dynasty. Brocade in Qing Dynasty was developed on the basis of Jiangnan Brocade.

In the early years of Qing dynasty, agriculture was restored, handicrafts and commerce continued to develop, and the cultivation of agricultural cash crops was encouraged, which led to the general prosperity of the whole country.

In the early Qing Dynasty, Suzhou hand-woven jacquard technology was greatly improved, and important jacquard varieties such as cosmetic yarn, satin and silk were produced. , is woven into more than ten colors, rich in color.

At that time, Suzhou hand-woven jacquard weaving method sometimes used more than a dozen big shuttles to weave at the same time, and sometimes used a big shuttle to weave the background, and a dozen small shuttles each wore different colors of silk and gold and silver thread to weave flowers. The small shuttle for weaving flowers does not cross the whole width, but weaves back and forth in the outline of the pattern according to the boundary of the pattern. The pattern woven in this way is like digging out from the width, so it is called "digging flowers".

Excellent brocade, natural color, faint color and silk thread can rival meticulous painting. A hundred-flower butterfly robe woven in Suzhou during the Kangxi period of Qing Dynasty, preserved in the Palace Museum in Beijing, was woven by scattered broken branches and colorful butterflies in twos and threes, interspersed among the young leaves of flowers. It is not only a beautiful material, but also a work of art, and you will never get tired of seeing it.

In the Palace Museum, there is also a huge heavy brocade woven in Suzhou during the Qianlong period. It is 45 1 cm long and 195 cm wide. There are 274 Buddha statues on it, all of which have clear eyes and expressions. Weavers are more refined than the previous generation.

During Daoguang period of Qing Dynasty, Jiangnan has become the center of silk industry. There are 2,500 textile mills with 50,000 workers in Guangdong. There are 50,000 brocade looms in Nanjing alone, and 500 or 600 in large workshops.

Under the premise of the high development of silk weaving industry in southern China in Qing Dynasty, brocade was developed on the basis of Jiangnan brocade, which was mainly produced in Jiangnan, with Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou as the representative places, mostly produced by traditional brocade, but Hangzhou produced the most brocade and was more famous. Representative products are Song Brocade, Zhuang Brocade, Yun Brocade and Shu Brocade.

Brocade is a triple weave fabric with satin as the base and more than three colored yarns as the weft, that is, a set of warp yarns and three sets of weft yarns. Weave eight warp and satin patterns with jacquard machine.

The fabric woven by brocade is monochrome warp satin, with at least three colors of yarns as weft satin patterns, and twill is also used as an auxiliary decoration when making. Brocade is a traditional China silk fabric, and there are more than three colors of weft yarns on the warp satin. Brocade has a smooth and delicate surface, rich feel and gorgeous colors. Mainly used as women's high-end clothing, but also often used to make ties, bedspreads, carpets, cushions and other decorative items.

Brocade can be divided into nine kinds according to raw materials: silk brocade, rayon brocade, interwoven brocade and gold and silver brocade. Exquisite patterns, gorgeous colors, dense and thick texture and smooth and shiny surface are the representative varieties of traditional silk products in China.

According to brocade materials, it can be divided into silk brocade, gold and silver silk brocade and rayon brocade. Silk brocade is a kind of brocade made of pure silk, which is a traditional craft.

Gold and silver silk brocade is made of real silk or artificial silk satin, with gold and silver silk thread as weft. But usually, it is not only gold and silver silk, but also silk. The ground satin and flowers of rayon brocade are made of rayon. Usually, the warp yarns are thinner and the weft yarns are thicker to improve the color contrast. The price of rayon brocade is lower, and nylon or nylon rayon has better effect, and its durability and dyeability are better than real silk brocade.

Brocade production process is complex, and there are dozens of warp preparation processes. It is necessary to repeat the processes of warping, twisting, doubling, twisting and setting, scouring and dyeing, winding and warping. Processing silk thread into full, tough and elastic silk thread.

For example, in the processing method of silk and brocade warp, a mulberry silk is added with 80 strands per 10 cm, and 60 strands are added in the opposite direction after the two strands are combined, so that the warp density is 0/30 strands per cm/kloc. The preparation of weft is also more complicated than ordinary products, and the weft density reaches 0/02 per cm/kloc.

Traditional brocade is often embroidered with plain patterns to show the elegance and exquisiteness of the satin of the base fabric, such as flowers and plants such as Mei Lan and Zhu Ju, and rare birds and animals such as phoenix, peacock and tiger. In order to meet the international trend, some modern brocade techniques have cancelled detailed patterns and adopted colorful patterns everywhere to make luxurious fabrics for ladies' coats.