The making process of cross-collar underskirt

There are two common methods of cutting the collar.

Because of the overlapping collar, the front placket will overlap part of the fabric, and it is difficult for one piece of fabric to meet the required amount of front placket fabric. Therefore, these two common cutting methods use two pieces of cloth to form a jacket.

One is the back-middle breaking method.

(shown), the seam line between the two pieces of fabric is in the middle of the back.

In ancient paintings, it is common to see an obvious line in the middle of the back of people's clothes. This cutting method must be used; the other is the front patchwork method, that is, the suture line of the two pieces of cloth is on the right front. The purpose of this cutting method is

The advantage is that the stitching area is covered by the left lapel and cannot be seen on the surface of the clothing.

In addition to these two methods, there is another cutting method that adjusts the slope of the shoulder sleeves to meet the required amount of fabric for the overlapping part of the front. Only one piece of fabric is enough, and there is no need to cut it separately.

The traditional skirt of Hanfu is an encircled skirt, which is made up of several skirt pieces and connected to the waist.

There are ties on both sides of the skirt waist (as shown in Figure (6)). The number of skirt pieces is not fixed, because the cloth width in ancient times was narrow. The more the number of skirt pieces, the greater the width of the skirt and hem. The Han Dynasty skirt style was only

Four panels, usually six panels in the Tang Dynasty, more than six panels in the Song Dynasty, and eight or ten panels in the late Ming Dynasty. Modern cloth width can increase the area of ??skirt pieces and reduce the number of skirt pieces. Modern enclosed style.

The number of skirt pieces of a skirt is generally 3 to 4, but in terms of traditional inheritance, it is best to use the traditional number of skirt pieces when making a Chinese skirt, such as 6, 8, 10, 12, etc.