What is the theoretical basis of the official clothing form in Ming Dynasty?

Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck. In the Ming Dynasty, the blouse was narrow-sleeved and three-collared, more than three feet long, revealing a skirt of two or three inches, which was called "big-sleeved round neck corolla skirt coat". At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: blouses were 2' 8 "long, sleeves were 1 2" wide, sleeves were inlaid with splendid flowers, and mink fox skin was inlaid in winter. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt was light in color; During the Chongzhen period, white skirts were advocated. This skirt has an embroidered edge of one or two inches. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt width was six, and it developed into eight or ten at the end of the Ming Dynasty. Skirt pleats are very popular, with thin pleats and large pleats. Folding decoration is very particular. There is a striped skirt, each of which is made of satin of the same color. Each piece of colored satin is embroidered with flowers and birds, and the edge of the belt is inlaid with gold thread, which can become an independent strip. Several such colored stripes are spliced on the belt to form a striped skirt, so it is named "phoenix tail skirt". Some also hand-made the whole piece of satin into fine pleats and named it "pleated skirt". A 24% off skirt, named "Jade Skirt". In the Ming Dynasty, there was a special hairpin named "Bi Xia" because its shape was as beautiful as rosy clouds. This scorpion appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got its name in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. Take it around your neck and hang it on your chest. Because there is a gold or jade pendant hanging at the lower end, it looks more noble. Most of the materials preserved in ancient times are the dress images of court ladies. When a maid wears a dress, the use of colors and patterns is regular. Generally, when you wear a gown on a big sleeve shirt with a red background, you should embroider the gown with dark cyan. The difference of grades is mainly manifested in the ornamentation, as listed below. In the first and second products, the cluster brocade used by famous women to post embroidery (that is, long-tailed pheasant). Third, the fourth product, a celebrity post, embroidered Xia Yun peacock pattern with gold. Five, the product life women post embroidery Xia Yun Yuanyang pattern. Six or seven products, the famous woman iron practice magpie tattoo cloud. Eight, nine products, ladies post with embroidery wrapped patterns. In the Ming Dynasty, the patterns of Xunzi were basically the same as those of Bi Xia except that eight or nine kinds of ladies-in-waiting used group flowers instead of tied branches. In the Ming Dynasty, Xunzi noodles were widely used. There are two kinds according to identity; The lapels used by nobles are in the form of leaders, and they are double-breasted in courtesy occasions; As a uniform, civilians take the form of straight collar and double-breasted small sleeve. There is also a collarless double-breasted vest in Yuan Dynasty, also known as "Gaby", which is a special costume for the queen in the court. Later, it was gradually introduced to the people, expanding the scope of use. Gaby prevailed in the middle of Ming Dynasty and was mainly favored by young women. From the formal point of view, this kind of "gabi" is related to the half arm in Sui and Tang Dynasties, and the vest that appeared after the Qing Dynasty is the deformation of this kind of gabi. Another feature of Ming-style clothing is that the front is decorated with beautiful ornaments, which is very eye-catching. They are all kinds of decorations made of gold, pearls, jade and other materials. Among them, the one hanging on the chest is called "falling collar"; The one tied in front is called "seven things"; Those who walk noisily are called "no walking", and these accessories are collectively called "miscellaneous accessories". Another special ornament is a gold chain with four small objects connected by rings: tweezers (an iron gadget with one end fixed and the other open, called "hair clippers"), toothpicks (for picking teeth), ear scoops (for digging ears) and knives, all of which are practical products for women's lives. Ming Hui Dian is an official book of laws and regulations in Ming Dynasty, in which it is recorded that the materials used for aristocratic women's dresses are "all kinds of silk and fine silk yarns", while the materials used for civilian women's dresses are restricted. Even for dresses, purple coarse cloth (that is, "ochre") and gold embroidery are prohibited, and robes are only limited to light colors such as purple, green and pink, and it is forbidden to use them. In the 14th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty, it was also stipulated that merchants' houses could only use silk, and farmers could use it? Yarn and silk. Men's wear in Ming Dynasty is represented by square scarf and round neck, and the clothes worn by Confucian scholars are very similar to those of Peking Opera literati on the stage today. It is characterized by wide sleeves, soap (black) edges, blue round neck and soft towel straps. Porters and porters wear blue shirts and trousers, long towels, wide coats and straw sandals. The official dress is a satin round neck robe and a satin coat. This robe is one inch from the ground, the sleeves are too long, the sleeves are one foot wide and the cuffs are nine inches wide. The red shoes are typical. Shortly after the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, Khufu was banned, the dress code of the Tang Dynasty was restored, and the legal department and the formal department could go hand in hand again. The Ministry of Justice is basically the same as that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the golden fairy crown was changed to Guan Liang, and the crown style of loyalty, tranquility and harmony was added. Officials wear their work and round neck robes. In addition to the color regulations, the official uniforms are also decorated with patches on the chest and back, and different embroidery patterns indicate different levels of officials. Not only that, officials' belts also have different textures due to different grades. Therefore, the clothing characteristics of the Ming Dynasty are mainly reflected in the strict restrictions on grades. Scholars often keep their hair straight or drag it straight and wear towels. Civilians wear short coats, small hats or net towels. There are many styles of women's hair bun in Ming Dynasty, and they often tie a bag on their forehead, which is called "covering their eyebrows". The dress is similar to Song and Yuan Dynasties, but the underwear is a small round neck with buttons around the neck. The dress is long, decorated with gold pendant and cloud shoulder armor (big vest). Zhu Yuanzhang unified the world, and Hanfu was generally restored in the Ming Dynasty. After absorbing the habits of the Hu people in the Tang Dynasty, Hanfu developed. In the men's wear of the Ming Dynasty, most adults wore long, wide and straight clothes with green cloth and square flat towels on their heads, while ordinary people wore short coats and headscarves. At this time, a small hat with six petals and eight petals appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half. It was first worn by servants, but later it became popular because it was convenient to wear. This is the predecessor of the "melon hat" in the Qing Dynasty. Most of the ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore robes with big red sleeves, while most women could only wear pink, purple and green and some light colors. Ping wears a shirt and a long skirt every day with a ribbon around her waist. Skirts are very wide, and there are many styles, such as pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts and yuet skirts.