What is the process of making woodworking planer?

Making woodworking hand planer, commonly used wood is sandalwood, quercus, acacia wood, etc..

In order to prevent deformation of the wood must be dry, and should be selected between the sapwood and heartwood wood, commonly known as "two standard".

1. will intercept the material, planing straight and square.

2. Note that the bottom of the planing should be made of the surface of the flowers, so that the bottom of the planing is wear-resistant.

3. Drawing lines.

4. First draw the planing mouth line, big planer and two planer planing bottom of the planing mouth slightly back, before and after the length of the ratio of about 6:5, note that the planing head to planing tail should be the direction of the stubble.

5. Draw the side of the line, planer cutting angle is very important, here the big planer cutting angle of 48 degrees, two planer cutting angle of 45 degrees.

6. Draw the jack line on the planing surface, planing warehouse line.

7. Chisel from above with a chisel, taking care not to cross the line.

8. Use a thin chisel to chisel from the bottom of the planer, taking care not to cross the line.

9. Using a smaller drill bit, drill through.

10. Use a smaller chisel to repair the planing bin.

11. Use a thin chisel to repair the planing bin.

12. Saw out the jack.

13. pick out the jack with a small chisel.

14. fine-tune the planing barn and jack.

15. Make the planing wedge.

16.Sawing out the uneven surface of the planing wedge, scraping and leveling with a thin spade.

17. Put copy paper on the slope of the planing bin.

18. Load the planer knife, load the wedge, and tighten the wedge.

19. Tap the end of the planer, remove the planer knife, the slope of the planer bin has a blue spot that is a high point and should be shoveled.

20. After several inspections and shoveling, the blue spots are increasing and form a large plane.

21. Form a large plane, and the top and bottom four corners need to have blue, this time the planing knife and planing bin slope to pay solid.

22. Fine-tune the planing wedge so that it matches the jacks on both sides.

23. Fine-tune the planing kerf.

24. Shovel out the dovetail grooves.

25. Repair the lower part of the jack, the jack should be gradually contracted from the top to the bottom, first slow and then sharp, so that the wedge to the lower part of the planer can still be compressed planer knife, and not to block the shavings.

26. Further processing planing wedge.

27.2.5mm thick copper plate, used to set a large planer planing mouth. Copper is so expensive, buy this piece in the copper store, spent 14 yuan.

28. Use a small chisel to pick out the copper planer groove.

29. Make the hole for the handle.

30. The position of the piercing hole is very important, it should be as close as possible to the top, near the planer knife, so that it is comfortable to hold, and the thumbs of the two hands can be placed against the back of the planer knife, so that it can be pushed to planing when it can be used.

31.fine processing through the handle hole.

32.Putting a copper planing bar on a big planer.

33.Copper planing strip is slightly above the bottom of the planer and needs to be filed down.

34.Need to trim the planer again.

35. Look at the planing gap is not too big or small.

36. For the two planes to make iron gland, two planes are rough planes, is the "trailblazer", with the iron gland can be held against.

37. Make a planer handle.

38. mounted planing handle to try, planing handle should be repeatedly tested to achieve the right degree of tightness.

39. Packing planer knife, new planer knife should be filed and grinding stone flute, so that it does not pinch.

40.back grinding planer knife, new planer knife steel surface has grinder's grinding marks, need to be smoothed.

41. Grind the mouth of the planer, the planer knife and grinding stone to maintain an angle of about 30 degrees, that is, grinding out the bevel is twice the thickness of the planer knife.

42. Then, fine stone back grinding.

43. Fine stone sharpening of the edge.

44. Place the emery cloth on a thick glass plate and fine-tune the base of the planer, which should be slightly bulged, with the coarse planer bulging out more and the fine planer less.

45. Rough planing planing board inspection, shavings out of the sharp.

46. The iron pressure cover and then knocked down, so that the distance from the edge of the planer is less than 0.5mm, the role of bumping to see the planer is straight out, but the planer pushes the sinking, so do not use.

47. Try the big planer again.

48. Invert the flute on the body of the planer to make a planer shape.

49. Sandpaper sanding.

50.Punching holes at the end for carriage screws.

51. Put a carriage screw for tapping when removing the planer blade, which can protect the planer body.

52. carriage screw.

53. All fitted.

54. Apply buggy varnish (paint chips).

55. All finished.