What are the main costume structures of Hanfu?

The main costume structure of Hanbok is divided into basic structure, overlapping collar, wide sleeves, and hidden buckle.

Basic structure:

The Hanbok is made of cloth and silk with a width of two feet and two inches (about 50cm) and is divided into ten parts: collar, lapel, obeisance, dickey, train, sleeves, sleeves, sleeves, belt, and kneepad. Two pieces of cloth of equal length are folded in half to form the front lapel and the back train, and sewn together to form the center seam of the back. The front placket without obeisance is a straight-necked bodice. If you take another piece of cloth, cut it into two overlapping pieces, and sew them on the left and right lapels, then it will be a slanting collar and right overlapping garment. The middle seam of the front lapel and the back train is called the grub, i.e., the dushi vein and the ren vein, and the obeisance is on the right side of the ren vein, so it is called right obeisance. The length of the train is divided into waist, knee and foot. According to the length of the train, there are three lengths of Hanfu: 襦, caftan, and deep coat. The seam between the sleeve and the train is called the gusset, and the cuffs are called the cuffs. A complete Hanbok usually has three layers: a small coat (underwear), a medium coat, and a large coat.

Cross-collar right-over-overlap:

When the left lapel and the right lapel cross in front of the chest in Hanbok, it naturally forms a cross-collar, so it is figuratively called "cross-collar"; the two straight lines of the cross-collar are like intersecting in the middle line of the garment, which represents the symmetry of the traditional culture, and it reveals the unique neutral and upright atmosphere, and it represents that a person should be impartial, and if it is said that the Hanbok is not partial, it is also said that the Hanbok has to be impartial. Unbiased, if the Chinese dress shows the unity of heaven and man, the cross collar represents the earth in the sky, earth is humanity, that is, square and positive. The sleeves, on the other hand, are rounded, which represents the heavenly circle in the heavenly circle and the earthly circle. This kind of heavenly roundness in the Han Chinese dress is also a reflection of ancient Chinese culture.

The most typical collar type of Hanbok is "cross-overlap and right obeisance", that is, the collar is directly connected with the lapel, and the lapel is crossed in front of the chest, and the left lapel presses the right lapel, which is shown as "y" shape in appearance, forming the overall clothing tilted to the right. The effect is that the whole garment is tilted to the right. Obeisance, the original meaning of the lapel. The left front lapel cover to the right armpit belt, the right lapel cover in, said right obeisance, and vice versa, said left obeisance. This is the Han Chinese dress in the successive changes in style has remained unchanged "cross-collar right obeisance" tradition, but also and China's traditional "right as the honor" of the idea is inseparable, these features are clearly different from the costumes of other nationalities.

Another complement to the "overlapping collar" is the "straight collar" and the "disk collar". A straight collar is a collar that comes down parallel and perpendicular from the chest, without crossing the chest, and some are tied at the chest, while others are left open without ties. This kind of straight collar is usually worn outside of the cross-collar hanbok, and is often utilized in everyday outerwear styles like smock, half-arms, and pasties. Plate collar is a more common style in men's clothing, the collar is a plate-like round, also right-over-oblique, in the right shoulder has a tie, in the Han and Tang official clothing used in the daily clothes also have a plate collar style.

Praise clothes and wide-sleeved:

Hanbok has been praising clothes and wide-sleeved since the ancient gowns, and short clothes and wide-sleeved in regular clothes. Comparing with the western costumes of the same period, Hanfu has an indisputable excellence in human nature. While Westerners bound the development of women's bodies with breastplates and skirts, the wide Hanbok has realized the characteristic of letting the body stretch at will.

The sleeves of the Hanbok, also known as "shimai" (袂), have a shape that is unique in the history of national costumes throughout the world. Sleeves, in fact, are round shirts, representing the circle of heaven and earth in the circle of heaven and earth. Sleeve width and length is a significant feature of the Hanfu dress sleeve type, however, not all Hanfu are so. Hanbok's gowns are generally wide-sleeved, showing gracefulness, elegance, solemnity, and ethereal and dynamic style. All along, the standard style of Hanbok sleeves is the rounded sleeves to close the expectoration, the pre-Qin to Han Dynasty reflected in kind without exception are so. All along, in addition to the Tang later in the regular clothing in the open small sleeves, the mainstream of the Hanfu sleeve is still round shaped to close the expectoration.

"Sleeves wide and long" is the main feature of the hanbok dress sleeve type, but not the only style features, hanbok small sleeves, short sleeves are also more common. Mainly have these kinds of use: participate in daily physical labor of the people's clothing, soldiers and generals of the military uniform, take its tight sleeve warm winter clothing. Sometimes the history of the dynasties of economic and cultural and aesthetic concerns are different, there are different performance in the sleeve type, for example: the Han and Tang dynasties aristocratic gowns with wide and large sleeves, the Song and Ming period of the regular clothes pasted with more small sleeves.

Lacing hidden buttons:

The hidden buttons in Hanbok actually include two kinds of cases, with and without buttons. Generally, Hanboks do not use buttons, and even if there are buttons, they are hidden instead of being shown outside. It is usually just a strap with a knot to tie the clothes. Also, there are large and long belts at the waist. All the bands are made from the same fabric used to make the dress. There are two pairs of belts for a dress, practical, one belt for the left armpit and the belt for the right lapel is a pair of knots to tie, the belt for the right armpit and the belt for the left lapel is a pair of knots to tie, and the two pairs of belts are knotted and tied to complete the process of dressing.

The other kind is the big and long belt around the waist, which is not only practical and decorative, but also symbolic, symbolizing power. The big belt of hanbok is wider in kimono compared to kimono.