Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional virtues - What animal was the official costume of the Ming Dynasty?

What animal was the official costume of the Ming Dynasty?

1. Gong, Hou, Xu and Bo are supplemented by Kirin and Bai Ze (Bai Ze and Kirin are mythical animals or ancient extinct animals).

Second, civil servants, painting the son of cranes. Second-class painted golden pheasant Painting peacocks with three products. Four paintings of clouds and smoke. Five paintings of silver pheasant. Egret six-level painting. Seven paintings? ? . Eight pictures of orioles. Draw a picture of quail. Miscellaneous painting practice magpie. Feng Xian's official paintings are sloppy.

Third, the military attache, painting a lion with one product and two products. Draw tigers and leopards with three products and four products. Xiong Bi's Five Needles Painting. Six products draw tigers. Seven products also draw tigers. Eight products draw rhinoceros. Draw a seahorse.

First-class and second-class official uniforms supplement the real thing.

In the Ming Dynasty, besides the dragon ball pattern, there were python clothes (four-claw dragons), flying fish (dragons with wings and fishtails), bullfighting (dragons with two horns on their heads) and unicorn patterns. The people wearing these patterns, Dahongpao, are all senior officials above Qi Huangong, Hou, Bo and Xu.

Official clothes make up the truth

Portrait painting of officials in Ming Dynasty retains the artistic form of contemporary officials' clothing. There are almost no official uniforms that have been handed down since the Ming Dynasty, and a few pieces dug out of the tomb are also damaged, decayed and discolored. The costumes, shoes and hats in the official portrait painting are brightly colored, complete in accessories and lifelike in characters' expressions. It can be said that it is an official fashion show that records the history of the Ming Dynasty for nearly 300 years, and also provides a good reference for academic research, costume drama and modern fashion design.

Ladies' paintings in the Ming Dynasty confirmed the historical facts recorded in the literature and supplemented the abstraction and deficiency of the written narration. From many examples of ladies' paintings, several characteristics can be found:

1. Crown and hat: It can be seen that the official format is only a conditional declaration in principle, and the styles are also colorful and varied. Ancient and modern people pay attention to the overall performance of head circumference, figure and personality temperament. In addition to the natural changes in size, the accessories of boys' crowns and hats, such as the shape, carving, size and edging of the jade ornaments in the middle of the brim, are different. The forms and patterns of girls' headdresses are even more colorful, such as Cuibo Mountain (Cuigai), Jinfeng (Jinzhai), Zhucuizhai, Judy and Baodian. Sanbo Hall (only for the Queen), beaded cards (with beaded rows and knotted rows), beaded clouds, crown designs, hairstyles, earrings, brooches, etc. , there are extremely rich changes, indicating that the ancient handicraft society paid attention to the artistic expression of crowns and hats, as well as personal aesthetic style and modeling taste.

From the gorgeous dress of a lady, we can also see her husband's love and respect for his wife, and the rockhopper shows the girl's talent for beauty and art. There are also some female officials who don't wear crowns, but only insert a few heads, which may be official clothes and casual clothes. It may also be that the early crowns have not yet formed standards and popularity, or it may be related to the size of the official position.

Second, clothes: the color may not be as good as the official regulations: one to four products are red, five to seven products are cyan, and eight products are green. General business casual clothes are mostly dark blue, sky blue and green. It is common to wear a big red when wearing an official hat. For example, the scholars or champions we saw in costume dramas are all dressed in red official uniforms. However, according to the official rank, Jinshi and champion are all seven officials. However, according to the official rank, Jinshi and champion are all seven officials, and they must wear blue official clothes. Probably people in China prefer red festive, so they don't wear it completely according to the regulations. Official women mostly wear red official clothes, so we call girls' embroidery and handicrafts "female red", which has the characteristics of national culture.

There are also many changes in the embroidery patterns of official uniforms in the Ming Dynasty. Some people say that only the emperor can wear the dragon robe of the five-claw golden dragon, but in the Portrait of Li Zhen handed down from the Ming Dynasty, Li Zhen wore the dragon robe of the five-claw golden dragon. Official wives also wear official robes, but they may all be older official women.

The group dragon-walking suit of the officials' official clothes

In the Ming Dynasty, many official image patches were directly embroidered on the chest and abdomen of clothes, and other square patches were not embroidered, which was probably universal, or the official patch regulations were not fully popularized. But it is very common in the performance of female officials' salary. Women in the same family, like birds, are sometimes symmetrical.

Some of the ancients married more than two wives, which can also be seen from official portraits. Some were painted together, others were painted separately. The statue of a female official is characterized by not drawing shoes. The three-inch golden lotus of ancient girls can't be exposed casually, and the skirts of broken scenes are also neatly drawn, with elegant and changeable patterns. Belts, Yu Pei and knots are also considerable.

In China, hundreds of civil and military officials in the Qing Dynasty wore patchwork clothes, and a screen embroidered with birds and animals was decorated in the middle of the chest and back of the clothes, which was called "patchwork clothes". It has become an artistic treasure because of the skills of silk embroidery and dyeing.

The method of distinguishing official ranks with animal patterns originated in the period of Wu Zetian in Tang Dynasty. Prior to this, official uniforms were mostly printed, and the grades were distinguished by the number of accessories and the color of clothes. Wu Zetian gave the embroidered robes decorated with animal patterns to the civil and military officials as the difference between rank and official position. This kind of creativity has changed the image of the royal dress level, which makes people see at a glance.

At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, only military officers compiled the supplementary clothing system, and the supplementary clothing could be woven on imperial clothes, short jackets, leather jackets and mandarin jackets at will. After nine years of Shunzhi, the production of auxiliary clothes has changed, almost completely inheriting the customization of the Ming Dynasty, and only a few patterns have been deleted. Officials at all levels make up their clothes in stone blue with the same style, such as round neck, double-breasted sleeves, flat sleeves over elbows, and body length over knees. The only difference lies in the shape and pattern of the patch.

The tonic of Qing dynasty directly attacked the Ming dynasty, but it also developed and changed. The main difference between the two lies in the form first. Tonics were used in robes in the Ming Dynasty and in robes in the Qing Dynasty. Ming clothing is a group collar shirt, the front chest patch is a whole piece, while Qing clothing is a double-breasted coat, and the front chest patch is divided into two parts. In Ming dynasty, the patchwork was either woven separately or embroidered directly on the patchwork in advance, while in Qing dynasty, it was woven separately and then sewn on the patchwork. The tonic in Ming dynasty was about 40 cm square, slightly smaller in Qing dynasty, about 30 cm square; In addition, in the Ming Dynasty, patchwork was embroidered with plain colors such as red, while in the Qing Dynasty, patchwork was embroidered with colorful colors based on dark colors such as cyan, black and crimson. In Ming dynasty, the patchwork was mostly surrounded by smooth edges, while in Qing dynasty, the patchwork was finely processed and used lace, which had decorative effect. Many civil servants in the Ming Dynasty embroidered a pair of birds, while animals in the Qing Dynasty embroidered one.

The tonic in Ming dynasty was only decorated on the chest and back, while the round tonic in Qing dynasty was not only decorated on the chest, but also on the shoulders.

Embroidered patches on official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty are a sign to identify the rank of officials. It's just that the embroidery workers are different in complexity and color. Tonics existed with official positions and were restricted by the imperial court, so they could not be mass-produced. Therefore, it has extremely high technical value and historical value. Today, it has become a precious collection of cultural relics.

The embroidery patterns of officials are different, mainly using birds as civil servants and animals as military attaché s to show the majesty of military attaché s. The official's wife, Yuan Pei, is a court maid. She can also follow her husband's rank and wear a medal on the chest and back of the official.

Complement can be divided into round complement and square complement. The round supplement is used for the royal relatives above Beizi, and there is a golden dragon pattern with five claws on it, which is decorated on the left and right shoulders, chest and back respectively. Square steps are used for civil servants, military commanders and other officials.

The patchwork patterns embroidered by civil servants are: crane for one product, golden pheasant for two products, peacock for three products, cloud smoke for four products, silver pheasant for five products, crane for six products, chicken for seven products, quail for eight products and bird for nine products.

The complementary patterns of military attache embroidery are: unicorn, lion, leopard, tiger, bear, tiger, rhinoceros, rhinoceros and seahorse.

The system of supplementary service in Qing dynasty was strict, and no one could overstep it. Nian Gengyao's son wore four dragons to make up one. When he convicted Nian Gengyao, there was this item: "Not a person, it is not desirable, you must obey the ceremony."

At that time, because of their low positions, some officials privately asked embroidery workers to make them in order to improve their status. The Qing government's processing factory repeatedly banned it and made supplements higher than its official position, but there were still frauds for the benefit. The institution that makes these supplements is the Royal Weaving Yamen, which specializes in weaving silk and brocade. The royal weaving yamen has gathered skilled craftsmen from all over the world. They use all kinds of embroidered silk materials, apply and inherit exquisite weaving and embroidery techniques, and weave and embroider world-famous traditional clothes. These supplements have now become precious cultural relics and artistic treasures.