Yuan dynasty clothing on the Song dynasty

Song dynasty clothing, its clothing color, clothing style more inherited from the Tang dynasty, just with the traditional dissolution to do better, more natural, giving people the feeling of restoring the Chinese style.

Song dynasty clothing Song dynasty men's clothing is largely inherited from the Tang dynasty style, the general public more than wearing a cross-necked or round-necked robes, do things when the clothes up tucked in the belt, the clothes are black and white two colors.

Then the retired officials, the scholar and the general public wore a kind of long shirt called "straight pick up" lapel, the sleeves are big, cuffs, collar, shirt corner are set with black edges, and then wore a square barrel-shaped hat on the head, called "Dongpo scarf".

The women's clothing of the Song Dynasty was to wear a narrow-sleeved jacket with a long skirt, usually with a long-sleeved pasted piece outside the jacket, much like an undershirt nowadays, and the pasted piece was embroidered with beautiful lace on the neckline and the front.

Men's clothing clothing:

Coronation clothing: the Song Dynasty began to reduce the types of coronation clothing, the big ceremony to wear a non-coronation clothing, the situation, it often occurs.

Court dress: In the Song Dynasty, a special decoration was added under the Jin, which was called the "square-centered curved collar".

Official dress: Song women's dress:

Dress: the color of the dress is the same as that of the Tang Dynasty.

Regular dress: all with large-sleeved blouse, long skirt, cape as regular dress

The regular dress as public dress.

2. Forms of dress in the Song Dynasty

The report of the Shaoxing four years of the Arms Office to the court stated that the weight of the iron armor at that time was 45-50 pounds, and that "the edict should not be more than fifty pounds."

This fifty pounds of armor belongs to the "heavy armor". Heavy armor in combat protection function is strong, but inconvenient to move.

Southern Song Dynasty in order to certain cavalry light special needs, can also specialize in the manufacture of "light armor", characterized by "long as the knee, cloak but elbow, helmet also kill heavy for light."

(See "Song history - Bi Zaiyu biography").

Southern Song Hua Yue's "Cuiwei northern expedition record" in accordance with the different characteristics of the horse army combat and infantry combat, suggested the shape of the horse army armor. It says, "the waist ring with four hangs. The body of the armor is covered by the left side. The waist skirt was three inches above the knee. Legs together with the removal of hanging."

No matter what kind of soldiers, body armor is essential, followed by shoulders, followed by leg skirts. Horsemen should also be hanging on the legs when encountering the enemy, retreating from the division is unlocked into the hitching bag, and avoid being held back.

3. Characteristics of the Yuan Dynasty dress

The traditional dress of the Freshman people is anciently known as the Goryeo dress. Historically, there were three countries on the Korean Peninsula, namely, Ma Han, Chen Han, and Ben Han, so the Korean people called themselves the "Three Han Nation" or "Three Han Children and Grandchildren". The Korean people also known as the Han nation, so the official academic circles of Korea Korea's official name for its "Han clothing". The Goryeo royal costume has long been influenced by China. The Yuan dynasty royal dress itself is also in the inheritance of the Han tradition on the basis of the increase in their own national characteristics, so the Goryeo royal dress is not fully montaged, such as the Goryeo king's sacrificial clothing has been with the Han system.

In the early period of Goryeo, the king's public service and regular clothes basically follow the Song system, until the late Goryeo was really influenced by the Yuan Dynasty, accepting the dress style of the king's clothes of the Mongol Yuan.

4. Ming Dynasty dress and Yuan Dynasty dress

What are the characteristics of the Ming Dynasty dress, Ming Dynasty dress belongs to the Han traditional dress system, after the overthrow of the Yuan Dynasty Mongol rule, the Ming Dynasty to restore the Han tradition, the Ming Dynasty, according to the tradition of the Han Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, the Ming Dynasty, "the upper inheritance of the Zhou-Han Dynasty, and the lower take the Tang and Song Dynasty," and re-establish a dress The Ming Dynasty was a time of great change for the Chinese people. So what are the characteristics of the Ming Dynasty dress?

Compared with the Tang Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty dress was a clear inversion of the proportion of the skirt, from the short upper garment to the long lower garment, gradually lengthening the upper garment and shortening the length of the skirt. Collar also metamorphosed from the Song Dynasty's collar to a round neckline. Ming Dynasty women's tops are three narrow sleeves, body length of more than three feet, skirt two, three inches, the so-called "Corolla skirt jacket, large sleeves and round neck".

Then Yangzhou popular a new style: women's shirt length of two feet eight inches, the sleeve width of one foot two inches, the outer sleeve set brocade embroidery, winter set sable fox skin. Skirt in the early years of the Ming Dynasty with the color tends to be light; Chongzhen period to promote white skirt. Skirt with one or two inches of embroidered edges. The beginning of the Ming dynasty skirt width of six, the end of the Ming dynasty for the development of eight, ten. Skirt pleats are very prevalent, there are fine pleats, there are also large pleats. Pleated decoration is very elaborate. There is a kind of skirt named color stripes, each selection of a color satin, each color satin embroidered with bird and flower decorations, with the edge of the band inlaid with gold thread can become an independent strip, will be a number of such a variety of colorful strips put together in the waistband, it becomes a colorful stripes fluttering skirt, so named "phoenix-tailed skirt". Some will also be the whole piece of satin material by hand into a fine pleated pattern, named "pleated skirt". A twenty-four pleated skirt named "jade skirt".

Ming Dynasty, there is a special style of cape, due to its shape as beautiful as the color of the sun, so named "Xiapi". This cape appeared in the period of the North and South Dynasties, the Sui and Tang dynasties to get this name. To the Song Dynasty it will be included in the ranks of the dress. Ming Dynasty to take this type of more common, it is shaped like a long colorful strap, each cape width three inches and two minutes, five feet seven inches long, when taking around the neck, hanging in front of the chest, because the lower end of the pendant with gold or jade, so more and more appear to be upright and noble.

5. Yuan Dynasty costume artifacts

1, Dashufa stone fish

Yuanmingyuan Dashufa stone fish is located in the burning of the former Xiyanglou building complex, body length of 125 cm. Great Water Method from the Qianlong twelve years of construction, to the twenty-fourth year of the Qianlong (1759) is basically completed, so this pair of stone fish has at least 248 years of history.

After the robbery of the Yuanmingyuan, this pair of stone fish in the late 1920s in exile, and now finally by the knowledgeable people free of charge to return home. At the same time home to the remaining eight pieces of stone artifacts including steps, railings, bases, etc., was sent back by the Beijing Diancai. eight components, six because of the carving of exquisite Western pattern, presumed to be the parapet of the Western building, etc., and the other two for the Chinese-style carved railings.

2, gold ou everlasting gold cup

golden ou everlasting gold cup for the emperor of the qing dynasty on the first day of the first month of each year, held on new year's day when the opening ceremony of the special ware. The cup is ovoid, caliber 8 cm foot height 5 cm height 12.5 cm, with two kui dragons for the ear, kui dragon head of a pearl; to three rolled nose elephant head for the foot.

Cup full burin Baoxiang flower, pattern symmetry, inlaid with pearls, rubies and sapphires to do the heart of the flower, point Cui ground. On one side of the mouth of the cup, engraved with four characters of "Jinou Yonggu" in positive seal script, and on the other side Inscription "Qianlong Nianzhi". It is now in the collection of the Palace Museum in Beijing

3, "The Picture of Steed and Bone"

"The Picture of Steed and Bone" is an ink and brush painting on paper created by Gong Kai, an artist of the Yuan Dynasty, and it is now in the collection of the Osaka Municipal Museum of Art, Osaka, Japan.

The picture depicts a starving horse, so thin and bony that it can hardly lift its head, but the indomitable spirit of the horse can still be felt in its torch-like gaze.

Steer Bone Figure combines writing and coloring, depicting the horse's bones, muscles, iguana tail, hooves and wrists, which is quite like sketching.

4, the twelve zodiac animal head bronze statue of the Yuanmingyuan

The twelve zodiac animal head bronze statue of the Yuanmingyuan was originally part of the fountain outside the Hall of Haiyan in the Yuanmingyuan, the red copper casting of the Qing dynasty Qianlong. 1860 British and French invasion of China, the Yuanmingyuan was burned down, and the animal head bronze statue began to lose overseas.

Till 2012, the bull's head, monkey's head, tiger's head, pig's head, and horse's head bronze statues have been returned to China, collected in the Poly Museum of Art; April 26, 2013, the French Pinot family announced in Beijing will be a free donation to the Chinese side of the loss of the twelve big water law of the Yuanmingyuan in the bronze rat and rabbit head. The donation of the rat head, rabbit head, for the Beijing Yuanmingyuan lost two of the twelve Chinese zodiac bronze statues.

At present, eight of the twelve animal heads of the Chinese zodiac from the Yuanmingyuan's twelve water spells have been returned to China, with the dragon's head currently well-preserved in Taiwan, although the whereabouts of the snake's head, the chicken's head, the dog's head and the sheep's head are unknown.

5, "Forty Scenes"

Yuanmingyuan "Forty Scenes", according to the will of the Qianlong emperor Hongli, in the ninth year of the Qianlong emperor (1744) before and after the court painter, the words of the minister to draw and become a 40-panel divided into the scene. According to its painting method is divided into two categories, the first category for the work of colorful map, only one set, originally stored in the Yuanmingyuan. The map of high artistic value, good visual effect.

The second category is the ink line white drawing, *** there are three kinds of versions: one is by the word minister by order of the school publication of the Qianlong "imperial forty scenes of the Yuanmingyuan Poem" of the accompanying map, there are Qianlong ten years of the Neifu line of the book; the second is the thirteenth year of Guangxu lithographic reprint of the Yuanmingyuan Chart Wing attached to the sub-scene map, the original by Sun

6. The influence of the Yuan dynasty dress on the dress of the Ming dynasty

襦裙按领子的式不同，可 be divided into cross-collar jacket, straight-collar lapel jacket, oblique-collar lapel jacket, round-collar jacket, and lab coat. According to the height of the waist of the skirt, it can be divided into a mid-waisted jacket, a high-waisted jacket and a flounced jacket.

The end of the Jin Dynasty, women popular underwear waistcoat over the cross-necked jacket. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the jacket appeared with the clothes over the skirt and the waistband on top of the clothes, and the underskirt was mostly an inter-colored skirt, which was spread to the Korean Peninsula and Japan.

The Tang Dynasty popular chested jacket and high-waisted jacket, often with a pashmina, the late Tang to the Fifth Generation appeared chevron skirt, is in the upper jacket plus chevron, outside the large-sleeved smock or half-arm, and go to the upper jacket only chevron with a large-sleeved smock to wear, the large-sleeved skirt jacket is also the time of the women's gowns.

Song dynasty Han women's clothing to 襦裙为主，最常见的是对襟襦裙以及只穿内衣和裙再加加褙子，也有把对襟上襦穿成交领者。

The clothing of Han women from the late Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty was predominantly jacket-skirt, and the main difference with the previous generation of 襦襦裙 was that the upper garment was not bundled up in the skirt.

After the Qing Dynasty ordered the shaving of hair and the changing of clothes, although Han women could continue to wear Han clothes, the Han women's costumes in the Qing Dynasty were also influenced by Manchu costumes until the Yongzheng period at the latest, from the cross-neck to the factory collar type of lapel, pipa lapel, and so on.

7. What is the dress of the Yuan Dynasty

The official dress of the Yuan Dynasty is mainly the upper and lower color of the quality of the Sun suit and the waist with a fine fold of the braid line robe, these two garments are quite a northern nomadic characteristics of the robe, to facilitate the life of the horseback riding and archery.

After the Yuan Dynasty came to dominate the Central Plains, the official uniforms in the form of public service inherited the Han system, according to the color, ornamentation, etc., the different divisions of the official grade.

The clothes of the Yuan Dynasty were mainly "Qisun clothes", which were shorter robes, tighter and narrower, with a lot of folds at the waist, which made it easy to get on and off the horse.

8. Characteristics of the clothing of the Yuan Dynasty

The Yuan Dynasty nobles attacked the Han system, widely woven dragons on the clothing. According to the "round history of public opinion clothing" records, the emperor ritual with gun clothes, shelter knee, jade hairpin, leather belt, ribbon ring, etc. There are decorated with a variety of dragon motifs, only the gun a piece of eight dragons, the leader of the clothing side of the small dragons are not yet counted. Dragon pattern is created by the Han people, it represents the culture of the Chinese nation. Late Tang Dynasty after the Five Dynasties, the northern minorities have established regimes, all without exception, followed this pattern.

To the Yuan Dynasty is more prominent, in addition to clothing with a large number of dragons, in other living equipment is also widely used.

Mongolian men in the Yuan Dynasty, wearing a kind of rattan gimlet made of "corrugated hat", there are two styles of square and round, the top of which is decorated with jewelry.

9. Typical clothing of the Yuan Dynasty

Yuan Dynasty weaving pattern of this period of weaving and embroidery technology has been a great development, Liao, Jin, Yuan Dynasty accepted the traditional Chinese auspicious patterns, on the one hand, based on its own auspicious connotations, on the other hand, there are political considerations.

Under the government's attention, the textile industry became increasingly specialized and larger in scale, laying the foundation for the weaving and embroidery industries of the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Liao embroidery Xixia wear branch lotus pattern woof

Liao, Jin and Yuan ornaments and embroidery technology, this period of the jewelry craft has also been a great development, engaged in the craftsmanship of artisans to improve the status of society, specialization of the production of ornaments is also more exquisite. This period of jewelry style is quite detailed, in the shape of more realistic.

10. History of Yuan Dynasty Costume Development PPT

The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by the Mongols, so the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were also more special. The Mongols mostly made the hair on the forehead into a small lock, like a peach, and the rest was braided into two braids, and then wrapped into two big rings hanging behind the ears, and they wore hats on their heads. The clothes of the Yuan Dynasty people were mainly "Qisun Clothes" which were shorter robes, tighter and narrower, with many folds at the waist, and these clothes were very convenient for mounting and dismounting from horses.

Yuan Dynasty noble women, often wearing a high, long, strange-looking hat, which is called "Kwu Kwu Crown". They wore robes, wide and long, walking is very inconvenient, often two maidservants in the back to help them pull the corner of the robe, the general civilian women, mostly wearing black robes.