What major adjustments have been made to the clothing system in the Ming Dynasty?

Clothing in Ming Dynasty belongs to Hanfu system. After the Yuan Dynasty overthrew Mongolian rule, the Ming Dynasty restored the tradition of Han nationality. Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty, re-established the clothing system according to the tradition of the Han nationality, "inheriting the Zhou and Han Dynasties and succeeding the Tang and Song Dynasties". Many popular male hairstyles in Ming Dynasty were initiated by Ming Taizu. For example, the "net towel" symbolizes the completeness of national laws and regulations, the "Siping square towel" symbolizes national peace, and there is also the "six-in-one hat", that is, the "melon-skin hat" (which was shortened to adapt to the new hairstyle after shaving in Qing Dynasty, and was almost regarded as a typical hat in China by westerners in Qing Dynasty). The most prominent feature of the clothing development in Ming Dynasty is that the front buttons (mostly metal or jade buttons) are one of the main ties, but the hidden buttons are still the main ones, but the buttons did not start in Ming Dynasty, and began to appear in the form of buttons from the chest of Song Dynasty.

The specific performance is as follows:

Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck. In the Ming Dynasty, the blouse was narrow-sleeved and three-collared, more than three feet long, revealing a skirt of two or three inches, which was called "big-sleeved round neck corolla skirt coat". At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: blouses were 2' 8 "long, sleeves were 1 2" wide, sleeves were inlaid with splendid flowers, and mink fox skin was inlaid in winter. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt was light in color; During the Chongzhen period, white skirts were advocated. This skirt has an embroidered edge of one or two inches. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt width was six, and it developed into eight or ten at the end of the Ming Dynasty. Skirt pleats are very popular, with thin pleats and large pleats. Folding decoration is very particular. There is a striped skirt, each of which is made of satin of the same color. Each piece of colored satin is embroidered with flowers and birds, and the edge of the belt is inlaid with gold thread, which can become an independent strip. Several such colored stripes are spliced on the belt to form a striped skirt, so it is named "phoenix tail skirt". Some also hand-made the whole piece of satin into fine pleats and named it "pleated skirt". A 24% off skirt, named "Jade Skirt".

In the Ming Dynasty, there was a special hairpin named "Bi Xia" because its shape was as beautiful as rosy clouds. This scorpion appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got its name in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. Take it around your neck and hang it on your chest. Because there is a gold or jade pendant hanging at the lower end, it looks more noble.

Life women's wear:

Most of the materials preserved in ancient times are the dress images of court ladies. When a maid wears a dress, the use of colors and patterns is regular. Generally, when you wear a gown on a big sleeve shirt with a red background, you should embroider the gown with dark cyan. The difference of grades is mainly manifested in the ornamentation, as listed below.

In the first and second products, the cluster brocade used by famous women to post embroidery (that is, long-tailed pheasant).

Third, the fourth product, a celebrity post, embroidered Xia Yun peacock pattern with gold.

Five-product life woman embroidered Xia Yun Yuanyang pattern under the post.

Six or seven products, the famous woman iron practice magpie tattoo cloud.

Eight, nine products, ladies post with embroidery wrapped patterns.

In the Ming Dynasty, the patterns of Xunzi were basically the same as those of Bi Xia except that eight or nine kinds of ladies-in-waiting used group flowers instead of tied branches. In the Ming Dynasty, Xunzi noodles were widely used. There are two kinds according to identity; The lapels used by nobles are in the form of leaders, and they are double-breasted in courtesy occasions; As a uniform, civilians take the form of straight collar and double-breasted small sleeve.

Vest:

There is also a collarless double-breasted vest in Yuan Dynasty, also known as "Gaby", which is a special costume for the queen in the court. Later, it was gradually introduced to the people, expanding the scope of use. Gaby prevailed in the middle of Ming Dynasty and was mainly favored by young women. From the formal point of view, this kind of "gabi" is related to the half arm in Sui and Tang Dynasties, and the vest that appeared after the Qing Dynasty is the deformation of this kind of gabi.

Accessories:

Another feature of Ming-style clothing is wearing ornaments on the front, which is very eye-catching. They are all kinds of decorations made of gold, pearls, jade and other materials. Among them, the one hanging on the chest is called "falling collar"; The one tied in front is called "seven things"; Those who walk noisily are called "no walking", and these accessories are collectively called "miscellaneous accessories". Another special ornament is a gold chain with four small objects connected by rings: tweezers (an iron gadget with one end fixed and the other open, called "hair clippers"), toothpicks (for picking teeth), ear scoops (for digging ears) and knives, all of which are practical products for women's lives.

Men's wear:

Coronation: Since the Song Dynasty, there has been almost only one coronation of the emperor.

Hanbok: There are Tian Tong's crown clothes, leather clothes, Hanbok and so on.

Public service: the official service of 100 officials. Everyone uses it.

Uniforms: Restore the uniforms of the Tang and Song Dynasties.

Women's wear:

Clothing:

Clothing: abridged for the Queen, visited temples and attended court meetings.

Zhai Yi: This is the Queen's second dress.

Dress: a big dress for an official or a woman.

Official uniform

On weekdays, officials in the yamen of this headquarters will wear uniforms. The rules of uniform are: wear a black hat, a collar shirt and a belt around the waist. In the twenty-third year of Hongwu, the length of the official uniforms of civil and military officials was defined as: civil servants, white-collar workers to future generations, one inch to the ground, sleeves over their hands, back to elbows, and public servants, Hou and Xu. The military attache is five inches to the ground and his sleeves are seven inches longer than his hands. In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu, Pin Guan's "Buer Pattern" was formulated, stipulating that the materials of official uniforms can only be used for silk storage, silk and variegated embroidery. Officials' clothes and curtains are not allowed to use propaganda, yellow and purple, nor are they allowed to embroider dragon and phoenix patterns. Anyone who violates the ban will be guilty of dyeing and weaving.

Wearing a black hat and mending clothes are the main costumes of officials in Ming Dynasty, and officials distinguish them by mending clothes. This kind of robe is the main clothing style of men in Ming Dynasty, which can be worn not only by bureaucrats but also by ordinary people, but with different colors. The collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid dark black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow, while others such as blue and ochre are not restricted, commonly known as "variegated collar clothes". Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must put patches on the chest and back of the robe, with birds for civil servants and beasts for military officers to show the difference.