Ming and Yuan Costumes in the Republic of China

Republic of China clothing; Qipao; Civilized new clothes?

Clothing in the Republic of China is an important period in the history of clothing in China, and it is also an important period for the decline and transformation of traditional clothing in China. At the same time, it is also a period when new clothes give birth to new life. As the most representative female costume in the Republic of China, the emergence, change and development of cheongsam accompanied the whole Republic of China society. ?

First, the cheongsam in the early years of the Republic of China?

In the early years of the Republic of China, the whole country and society were always in revolution and turmoil. Not long after, people experienced the baptism of revolution, clothing concepts and lifestyles were at a turning point, and cheongsam also quietly transitioned in troubled times. Generally speaking, at this time, the cheongsam has retreated to a less conspicuous position, which is no longer the conspicuous position before. At this time, the shape of cheongsam has not changed much, and it is still characterized by generosity in the late Qing Dynasty. The collar has changed from an early collarless or low collar to an "ingot high collar", which can be flush with the tip of the nose at the highest. The sleeves are slightly tightened and shortened to between the elbow and the wrist; The length of the robe was shortened to between the knee and ankle. The shape of cheongsam lines is still relatively straight, and the color tone is relatively elegant. The collar, sleeves, lapels and other parts are also inlaid, but it is much simpler than before, usually with only a few lines. Embroidery patterns also tend to be simple, no longer use decoration to reflect status and identity, but also begin to pay attention to women's curves. ?

Second, in the1920s, did you show your feet?

With the continuous opening up and the strengthening of communication between China and the West during the Republic of China, a large number of western women's wear styles flowed into China, and many newspapers and magazines published them on a large scale. At that time, overseas students who returned from studying abroad also brought back many foreign ideas and clothes; At that time, many women's clothing designers imitated the western style to design women's clothing. Therefore, a large number of western women's dresses are flooding the society, and these clothing styles and design methods are increasingly accepted and respected by people. These characteristics of western popular women's clothing are also mapped on cheongsam. ?

Since the mid-1920s, a new kind of cheongsam has been born. At that time, Shanghai was recognized as a fashion center, far ahead of all parts of the country, affecting the changes of China's fashion. At the beginning of Shanghai cheongsam's popularity, it appeared in the form of sleeveless long vest, and the long vest outside the short coat replaced the long skirt. 1926, the combination of long vest and short coat obtained the original style of the new cheongsam in the Republic of China. Zhang Ailing commented: "The newly developed cheongsam is rigorous, cold and square, with a Puritan style. [1] "The robe body is loose, the outline is straight, the length is above the ankle or around the calf, and the sleeves are inverted. Collar, lapel, pendant, etc. I still like to do piping inlay, but the complicated bedding style is decreasing, and "dry" and wide rolling strips are regarded as outdated symbols. In autumn and winter, I wore a cheongsam with big sleeves, only decorated with lace and slightly waisted. /kloc-in the autumn of 0/924, Liu, the daughter of the last top scholar, married Xu Zhenya, the author of "The Soul of the Jade Pear", and the bride wore this inverted sleeve cheongsam [2]. After 1926, the hem of cheongsam rose again and again. ?

By the end of 1920s, cheongsam began to shrink at the waist. Influenced by the fashion trend of short skirts in Europe and America, the cycloid is raised to the knee, and women generously show beautiful calves. Although the sleeves are still upside down, the cuffs are smaller. Decorative inlay tends to be clean, or even completely cancelled, and the color tone also strives for elegance and harmony, and the back is very simple and convenient. 1929, the cheongsam worn by Shanghai female students, the cycloid has reached the knee, the robe body has become fit, and some cuffs are matched with western cuffs, which has become a fashion. In the early years of the Republic of China, the "civilized new clothes" were also inverted sleeves, which were always used in cheongsam in the 1920s and gradually disappeared in the 1930s [3]. Throughout the 1920s, there were more opportunities for exchanges between China and the West. Textiles such as cloth, feather yarn, tweed, velvet and lace imported from Europe have expanded China people's dress choices and changed their dress concepts. People are no longer so stubbornly pursuing "one thing for three generations", which stimulates the desire to buy and promotes the popularity and change of cheongsam. The cheongsam in the 1920s was obviously influenced by Dicko's art, which was mainly manifested in linear modeling, symmetrical decoration and patterns. ?

Third, the classic?

The 1930s and 1940s were the most heroic times of the China revolution and the most magnificent times of the women's liberation movement in China. At this time, women's progressive thoughts and self-awareness were the most active, so the 1930s and 40s were also the most brilliant and prosperous period of modern women's wear in China. Just at this time, cheongsam established an irreplaceable position on the stage of women's wear and became a typical representative of women's wear in China. Known as China people? Dressed cheongsam and Shanghai-style cheongsam with western style quickly swept the country from Shanghai. What makes the world a household name is actually the cheongsam in the 1930s. ?

Cheongsam is more suitable for China women's slim and exquisite figure. In addition, foreign fabrics continued to enter China during this period, and there were clothing columns in major newspapers and magazines, as well as the popular monthly magazine of fashion and beautiful pictures, which promoted the emergence and popularity of fashion. Major department stores often hold fashion shows and exhibitions. Shanghai, in particular, became the fashion center of the whole country, because the latest European and American styles were popular in Shanghai every three or four months at that time, and all parts of the country took Shanghai as an example and competed to imitate it. Shanghai style cheongsam became the mainstream of cheongsam in 1930s. Moreover, during this period, cheongsam was adopted as a school uniform by many middle schools and universities. In the 1930s, it was popular in Europe and America to close the waist, which better reflected the beauty of women, that is to say, cheongsam would become more slender, tight-fitting and high-forked. 1934, almost below the hip, with a narrow waist and legs faintly visible when walking. It can be seen that the behavior constraints on women at that time have been greatly relaxed, thus conforming to the ideal image of exquisiteness, exquisiteness, openness and liveliness in the 1930s. ?

The style of cheongsam in 1930s has two characteristics: "the combination of Chinese and western styles is changeable". At that time, women who loved beauty wore cheongsam in various ways, some westernized, and some wore western-style coats outside cheongsam. Partial westernization refers to the practice of adopting western-style clothing for collars and sleeves. For example, western lapels, lotus leaf sleeves, split sleeves, ruffled hem, or asymmetric lace. But this is only the social dress of some stars and ladies. Most people still like to wear cheongsam with a suit. For example, wear a suit jacket, fur coat, sweater, vest, etc. Wearing a scarf or a pearl necklace around the neck outside the cheongsam is elegant and chic. At that time, the slender waist-closed cheongsam with perm, transparent stockings, high heels, necklaces, earrings, watches and purses were the most fashionable dresses, and the role of women was fully emphasized. Cheongsam has become a unique "national costume" of the Chinese nation. ?

Fourth, the continuation of the classic?

It can be said that the process of cheongsam going classic was basically completed in the 1930s, and the 40s was the continuation of its golden age. The smoke in War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression is burning, and most people are not interested in the luxury of clothes. In the early 1940s, cheongsam was no longer the luxury style of mopping the floor at the edge of clothes in the 1930s, because of its practical functions such as economy and convenience for activities. Its length was shortened to the middle of the calf and up to the knee. In summer, sleeves are often cancelled, collar height is lowered, and various complicated decorations are omitted. Make it more convenient and fit, thus forming the unique style of cheongsam in the 1940s. ?

The improved cheongsam first appeared in the late 1930s, and the short-sleeved cheongsam began to have shoulder seams. There was no province at first, and the return was great. Then there was a chest dart, which was not obvious at first. Later, it gradually developed into a waist province with sleeves, which became popular in the mid-1940s. Since then, cheongsam has become more suitable. According to newspaper reports, in the early 1940s, the price of cloth rose by 100%. Therefore, frugality in dress, advocating "old clothes movement" and generally advocating domestic products movement make cheongsam quite distinctive in the use of fabrics. On New Year's Day and Spring Festival, Shenbao, an influential newspaper at that time, issued the plan of "clothing, food, housing and transportation": "Today, when the country is in deep trouble, it is time to save the country and advocate the movement of wearing old clothes. It doesn't matter whether the clothes are old or new, but they need novelty. It would be nice to have a new brain ... 4] "; It only requires suitability and economy, and in case it is necessary to make a new one, use pure homespun. Therefore, it is not surprising that homespun has become a common material for cheongsam. At the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War, cheongsam made of domestic white cotton cloth or wool blue cloth (also known as patriotic cloth) was once popular in Shanghai. At this time, although the cheongsam is extremely simple in decoration and common in materials, it is still the mainstream of daily clothes. In the mid-1940s, cheongsam also introduced two western-style accessories-shoulder pads and zippers. It became one of the fashions at that time to replace the traditional coil fragrant buckle and right-angle buckle with zipper. The dress cheongsam is a little longer, the decoration is more elegant, and the school uniform is simple and generous. Factory women wear a simple cheongsam in summer: it's similar to digging a round hole in a flour bag-sleeveless, collarless or low-necked, with a small slit up and down the knee, and wearing a pair of shorts to cool down and go into battle lightly. ?

5. Qipao abdicated?

After the War of Liberation, New China was founded, and people seemed to be immersed in the wave of revolution. People's enthusiasm seems to have completely turned to revolution and labor, and the comfort and leisure represented by cheongsam seem to have lost their living space. Women's wear, which is more representative of professional women, suitable for professional women and can show the new era and revolution, has become the mainstream; Cheongsam quietly retired to the corner of history, and the cheongsam of the Republic of China ended here. ?

Picture reference:?

(1) The original cheongsam?

(2) in the late 1920s, Nanyang Brothers Tobacco Advertising Company. The Light of Signature (Xie Zhiguang). The ends of the hair sleeves still have the aftertaste of the 1920s, and the style of the whole cheongsam is the first in the 1930s. ?

(3) 1938' s overseas cheongsam, with high collar and low swing, split to the knees, is tight, slender and sleeveless, showing the graceful figure of the wearer, and the two piping edges are very refined and refined. ?

(4) Influenced by Europe and America, "transparency, exposure and thinness" became popular in the mid-1930s. Make a cheongsam with transparent silk, which is split to the hip. ?

(5) Cheongsam, which was popular in the late 1930s and early 1940s, was treated more like a silk cheongsam with short sleeves and narrow waist in the monthly paintings.