What are the characteristics of Ming Dynasty costumes?

Clothing in Ming Dynasty belongs to the traditional clothing system of Han nationality. After the Yuan Dynasty overthrew the Mongolian rule, the Ming Dynasty resumed the Han tradition, and Zhu Yuanzhang, the Ming Taizu, re-established the clothing system according to the principle of "inheriting the Zhou and Han Dynasties and taking the Tang and Song Dynasties". The following are the characteristics of Ming Dynasty costumes that I carefully arranged for you. I hope you like them.

Characteristics of Ming Dynasty Costume

biographical notes

Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck. In the Ming Dynasty, the blouse was narrow-sleeved and three-collared, more than three feet long, revealing a skirt of two or three inches, which was called "big-sleeved round neck corolla skirt coat". At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: blouses were 2' 8 "long, sleeves were 1 2" wide, sleeves were inlaid with splendid flowers, and mink fox skin was inlaid in winter. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt was light in color; During the Chongzhen period, white skirts were advocated. This skirt has an embroidered edge of one or two inches. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt width was six, and it developed into eight or ten at the end of the Ming Dynasty. Skirt pleats are very popular, with thin pleats and large pleats. Folding decoration is very particular. There is a striped skirt, each of which is made of satin of the same color. Each piece of colored satin is embroidered with flowers and birds, and the edge of the belt is inlaid with gold thread, which can become an independent strip. Several such colored stripes are spliced on the belt to form a striped skirt, so it is named "phoenix tail skirt". Some also hand-made the whole piece of satin into fine pleats and named it "pleated skirt". A 24% off skirt, named "Jade Skirt".

In the Ming Dynasty, there was a special hairpin named "Bi Xia" because its shape was as beautiful as rosy clouds. This scorpion appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got its name in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. Take it around your neck and hang it on your chest. Because there is a gold or jade pendant hanging at the lower end, it looks more noble.

Mingfu clothes

Most of the materials preserved in ancient times are the dress images of court ladies. When a maid wears a dress, there are rules on color and pattern decoration. Generally, when you wear a gown on a big sleeve shirt with a red background, you should embroider the gown with dark cyan. The difference in grades is mainly manifested in the ornamentation, as listed below.

One or two famous prostitutes posted their posts, and the embroidered text was * * * that is, the long-tailed pheasant * * *.

Third, the fourth product, a celebrity post, embroidered Xia Yun peacock pattern with gold.

Five-product life woman embroidered Xia Yun Yuanyang pattern under the post.

Six or seven products, the famous woman iron practice magpie tattoo cloud.

Eight, nine products, ladies post with embroidery wrapped patterns.

In the Ming Dynasty, the patterns of Xunzi were basically the same as those of Bi Xia except that eight or nine kinds of ladies-in-waiting used group flowers instead of tied branches. In the Ming Dynasty, Xunzi noodles were widely used. There are two kinds according to identity; The lapels used by nobles are in the form of leaders, and they are double-breasted in courtesy occasions; As a uniform, civilians take the form of straight collar and double-breasted small sleeve.

waistcoat

There is also a collarless double-breasted vest in Yuan Dynasty, also known as "Gaby", which is a special costume for the queen in the court. Later, it was gradually introduced to the people, expanding the scope of use. Gaby prevailed in the middle of Ming Dynasty and was mainly favored by young women. From the formal point of view, this kind of "gabi" is related to the half arm in Sui and Tang Dynasties, and the vest that appeared after the Qing Dynasty is the deformation of this kind of gabi.

baldric

Another feature of Ming-style clothing is wearing ornaments on the front, which is very eye-catching. They are all kinds of decorations made of gold, pearls, jade and other materials. Among them, the one hanging on the chest is called "falling collar"; The one tied in front is called "seven things"; Those who walk noisily are called "no walking", and these accessories are collectively called "miscellaneous accessories". Another special ornament is that four small objects are hung on a gold chain by rings: namely, tweezers * * * are small iron tools with one end fixed and the other open, which are used to hold fine hairs, called "hair tweezers" * * *, toothpicks for picking teeth * * * and ear scoops for digging ears * * *.

other

Ming Hui Dian is an official book in the Ming Dynasty, which records that the materials used in aristocratic women's dresses are "all kinds of silk and yarn", while the materials used in civilian women's dresses are limited. Even for dresses, purple coarse cloth is limited, gold embroidery is prohibited, and robes and shirts are limited to purple, green and pink. In the 14th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty, it was also stipulated that merchants' houses could only use silk, and farmers could use it? Yarn and silk.

Men's wear in Ming Dynasty is represented by square scarf and round neck, and the shirts written by Confucian scholars are very similar to the costumes of Peking Opera literati on the stage today. Features are wide sleeves, * * * black * * colored edges, blue round neck and soft towel straps. Porters and porters wear blue shirts and trousers, long towels, wide coats and sandals. The official dress is a satin round neck robe and a satin coat. This robe is one inch from the ground, and the sleeves are too long. Short sleeves mean that the sleeves are one foot wide and the cuffs are nine inches wide. They are typical red shoes.

Clothing regression of Ming dynasty clothing

Shortly after the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, Khufu was banned, the dress code of the Tang Dynasty was restored, and the legal department and the formal department could go hand in hand again. The Ministry of Justice is basically the same as that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the golden fairy crown was changed to Guan Liang, and the crown style of loyalty, tranquility and harmony was added. Officials wear their work and round neck robes. In addition to the color regulations, the official uniforms are also decorated with patches on the chest and back, and different embroidery patterns indicate different levels of officials. Not only that, officials' belts also have different textures due to different grades. Therefore, the clothing characteristics of the Ming Dynasty are mainly reflected in the strict restrictions on grades. Scholars often keep their hair straight or drag it straight and wear towels. Civilians wear short coats, small hats or net towels. There are many styles of women's hair bun in Ming Dynasty, and they often tie a bag on their forehead, which is called "covering their eyebrows". The dress is similar to Song and Yuan Dynasties, but the underwear is a small round neck with buttons around the neck. The dress is long, decorated with gold pendant, cloud shoulder, vest, etc.

Zhu Yuanzhang unified the world, and the Ming Dynasty began to generally restore * * * clothing. After absorbing the habits of conference semifinals in the Tang Dynasty, he developed * * clothes.

In the men's wear of the Ming Dynasty, most adults wore long, wide and straight clothes with green cloth and square flat towels on their heads, while ordinary people wore short coats and headscarves.

At this time, a small hat with six petals and eight petals sewn together appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half. It was first worn by servants, but later it became popular because it was convenient to wear. This is the predecessor of the "melon hat" in the Qing Dynasty.

Most of the ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore robes with big red sleeves, while most women could only wear pink, purple and green and some light colors. Ping is wearing a jacket and a long skirt with a ribbon around her waist. Skirts are very wide, and there are many styles, such as pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts and yuet skirts.

Types of Clothing in Ming Dynasty

Ming dynasty cloak

Cloak is a double-breasted coat that can be worn by both men and women in Ming Dynasty. Ming people think that it developed from scorpions in the Song and Yuan Dynasties, and the scorpion illustrations painted in the Sancai market are the style of cloaks. The cloak is double-breasted, straight-collared, about a foot long, with slit sleeves and split hem. Lapels are fastened with a pair of shoelaces, and some are fastened with flower-shaped jade buckles. The production of the cloak is mentioned in Zhu Shi's Talks with the Water: "* * * The cloak is made of the same clothes, silks and colors as Taoist clothes, but the cloak has no edges ... It has buttons, a pattern made of jade, or a small belt." "Eight Notes on Respect for Life" even mentioned a cloak button made of small gourds: "* * * Potted small gourds * * are only inches in shape. Choose a suitable shape, just hang one, dry it after frost, and use it as a cloak button. "

Cloak is a popular costume in Ming Dynasty. "Cloak and casual clothes" mentioned in "Copying from the Cloud" in the late Ming Dynasty also appeared repeatedly in "Dream of Red Mansions". It is worth noting that there are both cloaks and cloaks in a dream of red mansions, which shows that there is a difference between them. According to the descriptions in Sanyanhui and Zhu Shi's Talking about Wonders with Water, the cloak of Ming Dynasty is actually similar to that of Song Dynasty, but it is different. This cloak has sleeves, a straight collar and a split. "Zhu Shi talks about strangeness along the river" says: The cloak is a straight collar, with a pair of lapels, which split left and right.

In the Ming dynasty

Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Among them, Bi Xia, Beizi and Gaby are double-breasted and split left and right. Adult women's clothing, with the changes of family and identity, has a variety of different shapes. Ordinary women's clothes are relatively simple, mainly including skirts, backs, coats, shoulders and robes. In Ming dynasty, there were wide sleeves and narrow sleeves. Wide sleeve back, only on the skirt, decorated with lace, collar all the way down? . Narrow sleeves on the back, decorative lace on cuffs and collar, and lace on collar only reaches the chest.

Gaby in Ming Dynasty

Gaby's name only appeared after the Song and Yuan Dynasties, but the basic style of this kind of clothing already exists. The armor is sleeveless with double-breasted buttons and split left and right. The semi-weapons in Sui and Tang Dynasties had a certain relationship with Gaby. In the Ming Dynasty, Gaby was mainly worn by young women and was popular among ordinary wives, daughters and handmaiden. In the Qing Dynasty, this kind of clothing became more popular and constantly changing, and later vests were also processed and reformed on this basis.

Ming dynasty armor

In the Ming Dynasty, there was a kind of fat coat for sergeant's clothing, which was made of "knee-length, narrow sleeves and inner cotton" and was red in color, so it was also called "red fat coat". Knights ride horses in double-breasted clothes. Battlefield is mostly made of copper and iron, and leather is rarely used. The armor worn by the general is also made of copper and iron, and the shape of the armor plate is mostly "mountain", which is accurate and light to wear. Soldiers wear chain mail, iron mesh skirt pants and iron mesh boots below the waist.

Yan skirt in Ming dynasty

In the Ming Dynasty, there was no difference between upper and lower skirts, but among young women, a short waist skirt was often added to facilitate activities, and some maids and maids also liked this kind of dress. The coat is a long-sleeved coat with a cross collar. The skirt was light in color at first, although it had patterns, but it was not obvious. By the early years of Chongzhen, skirts were mostly plain white, and even if there were embroidery patterns, only a lace was decorated one or two inches below the skirt as a presser foot. The first six skirts follow the ancient instrument, that is, the so-called "skirt drags six pieces of Xiangjiang River water"; By the end of the Ming dynasty, eight skirts had been used, with dozens of fine pleats at the waist and lines like water lines. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the decoration of skirts became more and more exquisite, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats at the waist are more and more dense, and each pleat has a color, which is low-key and extremely elegant. The breeze blows, and the color is like moonlight, so it is called "Yuet dress". In addition, there are cloth strips cut into regular sizes with satin, each embroidered with flower and bird patterns, and the other with gold thread on both sides, which is called a phoenix tail skirt; There is also a pleated skirt, which is integrally forged and folded into slots.

The procrastination in Ming dynasty

One of the more popular costumes in Ming Dynasty evolved from knitted coats in Yuan Dynasty. People with short sleeves or sleeveless sleeves say it's pleated, while people with long sleeves say it's dragged away. The ex broke up and the horse was beaten.

There are wrinkles on the face, and the back is through, without wrinkles; There is a pendulum beside it. In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the clothes were renovated and colorful, and the gentry were very keen on innovating new styles of clothes. Scholar-officials lived in seclusion, and there appeared three styles, namely Qiutu III, Cheng Ziyi and Daopao, which were collectively called "Qiupai". In the Ming Dynasty, Tosa, also known as Yisa, changed its voice to "one color", which originated from the Mongolian word "Sun Zhi". In the Ming dynasty, dragging clothes was another name for high-quality drying clothes.