What are the representative costumes of men and women in Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties?

The main trend in the history of the Song Dynasty is the popularization of civilians, and the costumes are also simple and simple, reflecting the trend of the times.

There are three kinds of women's dresses in the Song Dynasty: 1, the "official clothes" used by queens, imperial concubines and maids at all levels.

2. The good or bad clothes worn by ordinary people are called "dresses";

3. Daily service.

There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes.

Official clothes: The color of official clothes follows the Tang system, and the official clothes are roughly similar to the long-sleeved official clothes in the late Tang Dynasty. "Curved collar in the square" is also a feature of the imperial costume, that is, the ornaments under the circle are placed on the items of the imperial costume.

Casual clothes: In addition to official clothes and uniforms, the daily casual clothes of Song Dynasty officials are mainly small sleeve round neck shirts and soft-winged hoes, which are still Tang-style, but their feet are changed into casual shoes that are more convenient for daily life.

Legacy clothing: The representative clothing of the Song Dynasty legacy is a long gown with big sleeves and a Dongpo towel. The robe was edged with dark cloth to keep the ancient style.

In the Song Dynasty, various popular men's hoes and towels also appeared in the folk first clothes.

Carola and hijab are very popular with women.

Women's hair style and corolla were the focus of people's pursuit of beauty at that time, which best reflected the changes of clothing in Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, the corolla was usually inserted into the bun with a flower-and-bird comb, and there was no surprise.

There are the following kinds of uniforms in the Song Dynasty:

1 "robe" has two types: wide sleeve, narrow sleeve and narrow body. There are brocade robes with official positions and white cloth robes without official positions.

"Yan" and "coat" are clothes that ordinary people must wear every day.

"Short brown" is a short and thick cloth, which is for the poor.

4 "shirt" is a man's gown with a hem and a horizontal hem.

5 "clothing" follows the ancient system of dressing under clothes. It is the style of coronation dress, court dress or private house dress. There was also a way to wear a coat under a petticoat in the Song Dynasty. Men also wear long coats with black frills on their collars and Huang Shang on them. Stay at home without a belt, and wear a belt when entertaining guests.

6 "Straight tube" is a wide long dress. It is called "straight hem" because there is no slit at the hem and a middle seam at the back.

7 "Crane", wide and long, is a kind of fur woven by twisting crane hair and other bird hair, which is of great value.

In the Song Dynasty, men wore cloth shirts.

Luoshan

It is called an undershirt for internal use, and it has the form of cross collar and jaw collar.

1, the material is very elegant, and silks and satins, yarns and yarns are mostly used. The colors are white, blue, soap (black), apricot yellow, tan and so on.

This coat is made of cloth, silk, silk, brocade, silk and leather.

3. The colors of coat are blue, red, jujube red, dark green and goose yellow.

4. The quality of aristocratic pants is also very particular, mostly based on yarn, yarn, silk, silk, crepe and twill, and decorated with plain weave, large jacquard and small jacquard. Pants are mainly camel, brown and brown.

the Yuan Dynasty

The Yuan Dynasty has a vast territory and mixed races, and various cultures complement each other, including farming culture, grassland culture, middle-earth culture, Islamic culture in West Asia and Christian culture in Europe, which leads to the diversity of costumes in the Yuan Dynasty.

In the first year of the Yuan Dynasty (13 14), considering the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese costume systems, the colors of official and civilian costumes were uniformly stipulated. 1, the official uniforms of the Han Dynasty were mostly Tang-style round collars and hoes;

2. Mongolian officials wear collared clothes and square corrugated hats; For the convenience of galloping at once, plaited coats (round neck tight sleeve robe, wide hem, plaited waist) and hats are the most popular among the middle and lower classes.

The Yuan Dynasty was dominated by robes. Men's official uniforms mostly come from the customs of the Han nationality, "making Luo, big sleeves, standing collar and right collar." Its status is reflected in the colors and patterns of clothing. The crown of public office is made of hoes and lacquered yarn to show its feet.

Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty was divided into two styles: noble and civilian.

Noble woman: She often wears a tall and long hat that looks strange. This kind of hat is called "Crown". The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to pull their robes behind them.

Civilian women: most of them wear black robes.

the Ming Dynasty

Social clothes have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive.

In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was regarded as the positive color, and purple was abolished from official clothes. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade.

1, the most prominent feature of Ming dynasty clothing is that the buttons on the front replaced the knots for thousands of years.

Another feature of Ming-style clothing is that there are beautiful decorations in front, which is very eye-catching.

1. is a variety of ornaments made of gold, pearls, jade and other materials.

This is a special ornament. This is a gold chain with four small objects connected by rings: tweezers, toothpicks, ear scoops and knives. It is very practical for women's life.

The hat character 1 in Ming Dynasty is a square-tube black lacquer gauze hat, which is called Fang Ning towel;

2. It is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means equality in all seas and unity in the world. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin.

High heels have always been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety.

In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown.

Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck.

In the early Ming Dynasty, the color of skirts tended to be light, and pleated skirts were light.

a surname

Men's wear in Ming dynasty is represented by square scarf round neck, which is characterized by wide sleeves, soap (black) edge, blue round neck and soft towel hanging belt. Paddy field clothes are common women's clothes in Ming Dynasty. They are simple and unique.

Ching Dynasty

During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In Qing Dynasty, Manchu costumes were the mainstream.

When I was in the Qing dynasty, I blew my hair and left a braid, which hung behind my head. I'm wearing a thin horseshoe cuff arrow-shaped dress, tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different. The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets.

The costumes of the Qing dynasty, traced back to the source, originated from Manchu costumes. Looking back, it is not the tradition of Hanfu. Therefore, although it is worn by Han people, it does not conform to the "traditional" elements of traditional Chinese costumes, so it cannot be classified as Hanfu;

For thousands of years, the long gown with wide robe and big sleeves is full crown, natural and unrestrained, rich and delicate, which is in sharp contrast with the full dress form with slender figure and short sleeves. Flag dress has replaced the complexity of ancient dresses because of its saving materials, simple production and convenient use, which is also the main reason why it is easily accepted by future generations.

Manchu flag dress, rectangular outline, saddle-shaped collar to cover cheeks, no waist up and down, no shirt exposed, two or three fake sleeves on the right side, horseshoe sleeves to cover hands, inlay ornaments, clothes and clothes, a vest or coat. Its shape is complete and rigorous, showing a closed box shape, so its image is solemn, lofty and unique, breaking through the elegance of tower-shaped clothing for thousands of years.

Today, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, cheongsam, with its slender and graceful curves, has formed the clothing representative of the Han nationality, showing the tenderness and connotation of oriental women, and has eternal value.

In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women were similar to men in dress, the only difference was wearing ears and combing their hair, while unmarried women hung braids. Manchu women do not bind their feet or wear skirts. The vest outside is flush with the coat, and there is a small coat inside the gown, which is equivalent to a Chinese-style chest covering for Han women. The clothes outside are also called "Oolong".