Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Russian traditional clothing
Russian traditional clothing
At present, Russian clothing fashion has become fashionable and popular all over the world, and a good "packaging" has become the goal pursued by many people. In big cities like Moscow and St. Petersburg, you can see famous fashion shows from Paris and Italy on TV every week, from which people can capture the current popular styles, predict the future fashion trends and change their clothes to catch up with the trend. However, due to Russia's unique climate and geographical location, not every fashion is suitable. Therefore, it is decided that Russians must not only absorb the "essence" of the world, but also keep their own national costumes completely. Since ancient times, Russia has formed its own national favorite traditional costumes. For many years, people have kept these costumes with unique Russian charm.
(a) Traditional clothing and apparel
Traditional Russian clothing, mostly as daily wear, has long been diluted by the world fashion trend, and has entered the museum of history with the passage of time. However, there are also some traditional clothes that Russians still like today. After several generations of wearing, they have been passed down intact and still occupy a place in major fashion stores. For example, there are two kinds of popular clothes-Lubaha and Salavin, which are very popular among women. Whenever traditional festivals come, people put on this kind of clothing full of ethnic flavor. This kind of clothing has gradually become people's holiday costume because of its bright colors and exquisite decoration, which can set off the atmosphere.
Rubaha
"Lubaha" is a traditional women's dress, and its style is a bit like a long-sleeved dress. In the past, Russian women would wear Lubaha when weeding in the fields, because long sleeves could prevent straw from stabbing their skin. Lubaha is also called "mowing skirt". However, from the current point of view, Lubaha's lower body is a straight skirt, which is not suitable for field work. However, the weeding device in Russia has unique characteristics. Its handle is very long, so you can stand and weed without bending over, and you don't have to wear this skirt when weeding. Rubaha has no waist and must wear a belt.
The earliest Lubaha was made of flax, which was not only monotonous in style, but also lacked color. It was very luxurious to own Lubaha with this material at that time. Only on festivals will people wear this kind of advanced Lubaha. At this time, the Lubaha skirt was cut very wide, usually 90- 140 cm, which made the skirt look elegant.
Lubaha's style is diverse, and different regions are different. Lubaha in the southern region is "Tonika style", with simple style, embellished neckline and straight skirt in the lower part. Lubaha in the north has a slim waist and loose upper body sleeves, which can set off a girl's figure more slender and plump. It is said that this style was popular among Slavs a long time ago.
It is the uniqueness of Lubaha to decorate with beautiful patterns. Lubaha in Moscow and the northern region is bright red with yellow and black colors on the shoulders. The colors are harmonious and pleasing to the eye. The neckline is embroidered with even wrinkles, and the lower part is matched with a red and white plaid skirt. The color is eye-catching and not fancy. This style later became the dress of northern girls, and it is still an indispensable ornament in rural festivals and celebrations.
In fact, Lubaha in each region is unique. Smolensk region is dominated by white, with red and white shoulders, and butterfly sleeve is very beautiful; The Wallonia region is characterized by complex embroidery and complex patterns. On the whole, the colors are warm and lively, but the overall harmonious effect is not lost.
Sarafan
"Sarah Fan" is a kind of women's clothing, which used to be very popular in Russia. Its style is quite similar to the vest skirt or beach skirt that people wear today, but its use is by no means as monotonous as that of vest skirt. You can wear it all year round.
Salavin in winter is made of thick woolen cloth, coarse wool and fur, which is a typical dress of Russian women in the past. People wear cotton and linen shirts, with Salavin outside and thick wool shawls, which can keep out the cold for the winter. Of course, Russian women no longer wear saravan in winter, but many people still wear this traditional dress in summer. Salavin's fabrics are hand-batik, burlap, calico and so on. Clothes are decorated with embroidery, patchwork and ribbons. The changeable decorations and colors make Sarafan look natural, lively and casual. Russian women usually do housework at home when the heating supply is good in winter.
The word "Salafan" comes from the Iranian word "Salaba", which means "from head to toe". According to experts, Salavin first appeared during the separation of Guros and Eastern Slavs, and it didn't prevail in Russia until 16 and 17 centuries. At that time, Sarah Van didn't have a unified name, so the names varied widely. In Moscow and Smolensk, Salavin is called "Salanov"; In Arkhangelsk, it is called "Goodsand".
Not only is the name different, but Sarah Fan Qi's style varies greatly from place to place. To sum up, there are four styles, namely Tonika style, Kosokolin style, straight tube style and belt style.
Kosokolin style is very popular in Arkhangelsk. Because it is located in the north, it is cold in winter, so the lining in Salavin is thick, and it is usually hand-woven. The "lining" made of coarse hemp keeps out the cold, and most of them are dark blue, sky blue and pure white woolen fabrics. Keeping out the cold and keeping warm is the primary function of Salavin. The Salavin worn by Muscovites is a little more delicate. The fabric is made of fine sheepskin and wool, and the skirt is wide, which is called "belt type". The texture and color are high-grade and exquisite. In southern Russia, people wear saravan, which is called straight tube and Kosokolin style.
Due to the disparity between the rich and the poor, Salavin's style is the same, but the texture is different. Sarah Fan, a noble woman, uses brocade to forge silk, and the colors are also bright sky blue and rose. The poor woman's Salavin is only made of tweed and linen, and there are basically no decorations. Sometimes, on holidays, people will sew some glass and copper pieces on it to distinguish it from ordinary clothes.
Shuba
Shuba, a fur coat, is an indispensable winter dress for Russians. Shuba has different kinds of goods, such as mink, fur, sheepskin, rabbit skin and dog skin. A long time ago, Russian shuba was mainly sheepskin. Due to the cold climate in Russia, Shuba has always been the master of winter clothes. Until the appearance of down jackets, Shuba's monopoly position was completely broken.
Russians have been wearing Shuba for many years. Shuba's almost unchanging styles and colors make people feel the similarity and lack of originality of clothing. In recent years, in order to revive Shuba, several new and unique styles have appeared, which have been welcomed by Russians. Xinshuba has beautiful patterns, fashionable styles and gradually rich colors, which has changed the leather clothing business.
Lomonov is one of the producing areas of Russian leather clothes with a history of more than 300 years. The leather clothing here is famous for its special leather material, which comes from a hybrid sheep. /kloc-In the middle of the 0/9th century, Lomonov was famous for comparison. It is said that the winter here is extremely cold. In the past, only sledges were used as transportation. Therefore, you must wear warm clothes when you go out by sledge, and Shuba came into being.
Another place rich in leather clothes is in Boshihong area, and its leather clothes are quite famous in yaroslavl, vologda and Volga River. Dubruka is a short coat that looks like a cloak. Dubruka, as a retro leather garment, is very popular in Russia in recent years with the revitalization of leather garment industry. Due to the ever-changing styles, frosted surfaces and multi-color production, Shuba has become an indispensable ornament for dressing up Russian winter.
Folk headdress
Russian headdress has strong national characteristics. In ancient times, women's different ages can be seen through headdresses. Generally, girls don't wear hats, and their hairlines are exposed on both sides. Married women should wear hats and not show any hair. Anyone who shows "pearls" will be condemned by the public. Russian rural women are used to braiding their hair and wearing it on their heads in the form of horns. In the south, when the weather is hot, women tie their hair in two strands to avoid being disturbed by their hair when working in the fields.
Hair band is a girl's main headdress. Hair with pearl inlay, garland shape and ordinary wood. In addition, hair bands are used to decorate hair, and high-grade hair bands are also inlaid with precious items such as gems. The most common headdress is a handkerchief made of linen, which, like a woman's hat, chooses darker and darker colors with age. After the girl got married, the hat replaced the handkerchief. In many places, women wear horn hats in the first year after marriage, that is, they sew a corner, sometimes bone or sawdust, on an ordinary hat. After women give birth, the horn hat is replaced by a soft hat or a magpie hat that married women often wear.
Russian headdresses appeared in Kiev during the Russian period. At that time, men had long hair and beards. In today's murals reflecting Gullas folk customs, this kind of hair is vividly portrayed. /kloc-in the 0/0 century, Archduke Swadoslav of Russia shaved all his hair, leaving only a small lock of hair hanging over his ears. Not only the hairstyle, but also the beard only has a pinch in the middle of the upper lip. It is said that Dagong's hairstyle is imitated by oriental men. This hairstyle was also popular among Cossacks from 16 to 18, when most Russian men had the habit of shaving their heads. Later, only those who lost their loved ones or fell out of favor in the palace grew hair and beards to vent their sadness and dissatisfaction.
/kloc-in the 0 th and 9 th centuries, Russian men became fashionable by keeping the center. The hat is also a symbol of social status. The hats of rich and famous children are made of satin and inlaid with various gems to highlight their identity. The average man has no decoration, and his head is just an ordinary fedora.
(B) the characteristics of modern clothing
Ladies wear skirts. Russian women have a tradition of wearing skirts all year round. In summer, they usually wear blackie, and in winter, no matter how cold it is, they also wear skirts.
Russian women have their own ideas about skirts. They think that wearing skirts in winter is not cold, but warm. Because the skirt can be covered with knee pads, leg pads, thick socks and thick wool pants, and the skirt is just covered with a layer of cold, so it is warmer than wearing pants. Skirts worn in winter are generally very long. Skirts must be about an inch above boots, so that they look good whether wearing coats or leather clothes outside. Of course, the clothes we introduce are not the "patents" of all women, but the unique clothes of Russian middle-aged and elderly women.
Young girls are different. They also wear skirts in winter, but they wear them in two other ways: one is a miniskirt and the other is an ultra-long skirt. The miniskirt is beautiful, but the girls are "frozen" (moving) because of beauty. Sometimes even when the cold current drops to -20℃, they still show their thighs almost completely, and only a thin layer of silk stockings separates their skin from the air. Even so, Russian girls don't change clothes. This shows the importance of beauty in the hearts of Russian women. It is said that there are more and more joint diseases among middle-aged and elderly women in Russia, on the one hand, because the climate is particularly cold and humid, on the other hand, they are to blame for not paying attention to keeping their legs warm when they are young.
Because the traditional habit of Russian women is to prefer skirts, the daily clothing market is dominated by skirts, including long skirts, short skirts, dresses and suits. There are many western-style and Chinese-style dresses for women's wear, but the supply of suits and trousers is obviously insufficient. This rejection of trousers is also related to the tradition that women like to wear skirts.
Especially in communication and social occasions, women should wear skirts. Wearing pants is considered disrespectful to guests. A Russian friend went to China to do business. It happened that he went to Yangzhou in the spring of March to discuss a business deal with the manufacturers there. In Yangzhou in March, although it is sunny outside and full of spring, the indoor air is still cold. In order to welcome the guests from afar, the factory leaders specially accepted the interview. Russians attach great importance to clothes on this occasion. Men wear straight suits, while wives wear typical Russian "Brakis". After the welcoming ceremony, there was such a long business negotiation that his wife had to sneeze one after another in front of everyone.
Advocating leather clothes As we said before, Russians mainly wear leather clothes to keep out the cold in winter, and they like to wear leather clothes. Nowadays, there are many kinds of winter clothes that can keep out the cold, which are comparable to leather clothes in style and texture, but Russians still have a soft spot for leather clothes. Why?
Russians' pursuit of leather clothes actually reflects their unique taste in pursuing beauty. Leather clothing has a noble, gorgeous and fashionable aesthetic feeling, which is exactly what Russians value. Leather clothing not only meets the cold demand, but also reflects luxury, so it has always been deeply loved by Russians. However, leather clothes were really neglected ten years ago, when down jackets just came out. Leather clothing retreats to the "second line" in the competition, because leather clothing is not only monotonous in color, but also outdated in style, which can not arouse people's interest. If you pursue the texture of leather clothes, you will not pursue styles; It has shiny fur, but it has no unique style. While people appreciate its luxury, they can't help but feel sorry for being overshadowed by other aspects.
Now, with the rise of market economy, the leather clothing market has also undergone tremendous changes. Excellent foreign brands constantly impact the Russian market, and their trendy designs and fashionable styles have revived Russian people's interest in leather clothing. People abandoned rigid down jackets and put on fashionable leather jackets from France, Italy and Turkey. Many Russians travel to Turkey and buy their own leather goods without even going far to Wan Li. Therefore, a few years ago, it also triggered a wave of Russian tourists visiting Turkey. After constant introduction and selection, Russians put their favorite leather styles on themselves. Nowadays, colorful leather clothes, with novel and unique styles, compete with each other and dress up the urban landscape in winter, which has become a unique landscape in Russia.
When wearing leather, you must also wear a fur hat, scarf and gloves of the same quality, so as to get the "outfit". Otherwise, without such a "companion", even the best leather clothes will be eclipsed.
Russians not only pay attention to the color and style of clothing, but also pay attention to the length of clothing.
Perhaps it is located in a cold area, people often choose long clothes, whether it is woolen coats, windbreakers or fur coats, the length of which should reach the calf. This habit is inseparable from the traditional dress style. People wear boots in winter, and the gap between clothes and boots should not be too big, otherwise it is unsightly. According to the Russian eyes, the coat should be at least as long as the calf and not higher than the knee, so that the coat and boots can be perfectly matched. Of course, this kind of dress only refers to women, and the length of men's coats depends on personal preferences and does not require a unified style.
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