Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Requirements of traditional hairstyle making
Requirements of traditional hairstyle making
In the early primitive society, human beings had no aesthetic concept and lacked the ability of self-beautification. Therefore, men, women and children let their hair hang freely and let it grow naturally, and there is no idea of sprouting and modifying hair, let alone hairstyle and hair accessories. It was not until the late primitive society that our ancestors gradually sprouted the consciousness of pursuing beauty, and the practice of modifying hair made various hairstyles and hair accessories be created. Hair has developed from natural looseness to bundle and fixed with twigs, which has become the origin of hair clasp.
Legend has it that when Emperor Yan was born, the division of labor between men and women was very clear, with men outside and women inside, which created material conditions for women to pursue beautiful hairstyles. At that time, women's hair styles were mainly three kinds, namely poncho, vertebral bun and braided hair.
Wear hair. The bun, also called "bun", is one of the oldest hairstyles in China. A painted pottery pot was unearthed in Liuwan, Qinghai, China. The pot depicts a naked woman with loose hair, which is a typical hairstyle. This ancient hairstyle is widely spread in time and space. As far as time is concerned, until the founding of People's Republic of China (PRC), Dulong women in China still kept their hair, with their foreheads flush with their eyebrows, their left and right ears flush, their backs hanging over their shoulders at will, and their length cut off with a knife. As far as space is concerned, there are many places in China. For example, a bronze ware of the Western Han Dynasty unearthed in Yunnan has the image of Yunnan women with long hair.
Vertebral bun, also known as "vertebral knot", means to form hair into vertebral bun, which is also one of the hairstyles in ancient China. Hanshu? After the Biography of Lu Jia, Yan Shigu noted: "The person with a vertebral bun is a bun shaped like a vertebra." Wei Xueyi's "Tale of Nuclear Ships" also recorded the "vertebral bun", saying: "He who lives on the right has a vertebral bun on his back."
The bun is the earliest hairstyle in ancient China, and its appearance is an important event in the history of hair culture in China. The development of bread has gone through three stages. First, the hair is tied in a bun, wrapped by itself, and there is no headdress for the hair. "The Origin of Things" quoted "Two Records of Instruments" as saying: "Marrying a man is a bun, but it is a tangled hair, and there is no bondage." The second is to tie the rope into a bun. "The Origin of Things" records: "Nu Wa's daughter uses wool as a rope, which makes it easy for future generations, and also uses silk, a famous headscarf and the remains of the rope." The third is to tie your hair in a bun. In 1970s, a Neolithic tomb was unearthed in Xiangfen, Shanxi, China. There is a skeleton of a 35-year-old woman with a bone clip on her head, which is evidence that her hair is tied in a bun.
With the development of bun, the first hair accessories appeared, such as hair rope, silk, silk, famous headscarf, bone flap and so on. Legend has it that Shun Di created a kind of hair clip for women, with two feet, which can spread the extra hair ends. "The Story of Jiyuan" quoted Er Lu as saying, "beginning of life is a bun, Nu Wa's daughter uses bamboo sticks as her hair, and Yao uses copper as her hair, and she walks horizontally. It is this hairpin that begins with ivory and tortoise shell. " This record describes the development of China's original hair accessories. Although traced back by later generations, it also shows us a vague picture of China's original hair accessories.
Braided hair. The so-called braiding is to braid your hair. In the late Neolithic period, our ancestors learned to braid their hair. Dancers with braids are painted on the pottery basin with Datong dance patterns unearthed in Shangsunjiazhai, Datong County, Qinghai Province.
2. Three generations period
Compared with the primitive society, the handicraft industry of the three generations has made remarkable progress, and people's aesthetic consciousness has become increasingly strong with the development of productive forces, laying a material foundation for the development of hairstyles and hair accessories.
Fu is the most commonly used hair accessory in Shang Dynasty. As early as the new era, quilts can be divided into bone quilt, clam quilt, jade quilt and bronze quilt. Depending on the material used to fix the bun. Women's dual-purpose hair clip, obliquely inserted on both sides of the bun. Food forms are diverse, and some are carved into two birds, which look like mandarin ducks. Women in Shang Dynasty had the custom of combing double chicken bun, which was a symbol of good luck. A pair of jade men and women decorated in Shang Dynasty were unearthed from Fu Hao's tomb in Yinxu, Anyang, Henan Province. Their hair style is a double chicken bun.
Most women in the Zhou Dynasty put their hair in a bun and used it all the time. A tomb in the Spring and Autumn Period was unearthed in Guangshan, Henan Province. There was a bun of Ji Meng, the owner of the tomb, and two pieces of wood were obliquely inserted in the bun.
Women in the Zhou Dynasty also had the custom of combing a high bun. According to legend, when she was under house arrest, she repeatedly told women to tie a high bun, which was called a chicken bun. King Wu established the Zhou Dynasty, promoted the ritual system, and stipulated the style and decoration of women's bun. "Zhou Li? "Tianguan" contains: "Chasing a teacher is the queen's first suit, and it is deputy, editor, second, chasing, balancing and matching." The accessories, braids and times here are the hair accessories on women's heads, while chasing, balancing and wearing are the accessories on women's hair accessories. Empress Dowager Cixi of the Zhou Dynasty wore a big bun and various jewels, flowers and dragons and phoenixes. The bun made of real hair can't bear such a rich headdress, so there is a fake bun made of metal.
In the spring and autumn period, there was a fashion to comb wigs in a high bun to show their beauty. This kind of wig is called "parallel imports". Zuozhuan? "seventeen years of mourning for the public" records a story: seeing Lu's wife's long hair is beautiful, she was ordered to cut it off and made a wig for her, called "Lu Jiangqing"
During the Warring States period, women's hair often tilted backwards, similar to the "silver ingot" or "saddle wing" style of later generations. The following picture shows 1949, the "Dragon and Phoenix Lady Map" unearthed from the Chu Tomb of Chenjiadashan, Changsha City, Hunan Province in February. The theme of the painting is to pray for the soaring dragon and phoenix to guide the tomb owner's soul to ascend to heaven as soon as possible. The women's bun in the painting leans backward, which is a typical style of women's bun in the Warring States period.
Some people think that from the Warring States to the end of the Western Han Dynasty, the style and status of this bun are similar.
3. Qin and Han Dynasties
After Qin Shihuang unified the world and established the Qin empire, he asked the women in the palace to wear peach blossom makeup and comb fairy buns. Fairy bun was a popular Hui Hui bun at that time, and it was a new hairstyle besides vertebral bun. As a result, a double-sided fairy bun appeared, which later evolved into a twelve-ring bun. But at this time, the folk still take vertebral bun and post bun as the mainstream. Later, the double-ring bun became the main bun style for unmarried girls. In addition, there were Lingyun steamed buns, Wang Xian's nine-ring steamed buns and Shenluan steamed buns in the Qin Dynasty. Although we can't see the shape of these buns, we can imagine their graceful beauty from their names.
After the Han Dynasty, women's hairstyles have achieved unprecedented development. First of all, in terms of official uniforms, the Han Dynasty formulated hairstyles and hair accessories according to Zhou Li. For example, Empress Dowager Cixi still wears all kinds of complicated headdresses in a bun, which later evolved into a heavy rockhopper. Secondly, the style of rich women's bun gradually changed from post-tendency to high bun, and it was decorated with luxury. For example, Ma Huanghou, the Emperor of the Eastern Han Dynasty, had beautiful long hair. After combing four big buns, there is still more hair, and you can circle the bun three times to become a new high bun. Another example is Mrs. Liang Ji, who created a drooping bun, which became the new fashion at that time. Third, women in ordinary families still like simple naked buns.
The styles of women's hair bun in Han Dynasty are rich and colorful, some push the top, some split to both sides, and some hang down to the back of the head. Different methods of combing the bun have resulted in various kinds of bun. The following are several styles of hair bun in Han Dynasty.
Shake it. As early as the Warring States period, the step-shaking existed, and the written record was first seen in Song Yu's "Phoenix House", which said: "The master's daughter, step-shaking the beads." Women in the Han dynasty began to use step rocking as hair accessories more. The explanation of step shake in Ming Shi is: "There are beads hanging on it, so it is called step shake." "Once"? "Jade Fu Xia Zhi": "Take gold as the mountain topic, and white beads as the cassia twig, which is a must." The Book of Wang Xianqian in the Later Han Dynasty quoted Chen Xiang as saying, "In the Han Dynasty, gold is the phoenix, there is a mansion under it, and there is a nest in front of it, and five jade ornaments hang down, so it moves. "The production of the step shake is mostly made of gold bent into a dragon and phoenix shape, decorated with pearls and jade. In the Six Dynasties, the fancy became more and more complicated, or became flowers and branches of birds and animals, shining, mixed in fine hair and stuck in hair. The picture below shows the Han Dynasty walker unearthed in Beipiao County, Liaoning Province.
Put it in a ponytail. Ma Ji is the hairstyle of Liang Ji's wife Sun Shouming, and it is one of the most popular hairstyles in Han Dynasty. The legend of Ji Liang quoted a custom saying, "Those who have finished ponytails stand on one side, starting from what Ji's surname did, and the death of the capital is valid." It is said that combing this bun, coupled with frowning, crying and other decorations, can increase female charm. In order to match this bun form, women who wear a bun also have a special posture called "bending step". Shang Mo Sang written by Han Yuefu tells the story of an official who molested a mulberry-picking woman and was severely rejected. This poem describes the image of Luo Fu, a mulberry picker, as "a bun on her head and a bright moon beside her ears", which was a popular hairstyle for women at that time. Japanese autumn bun is evolved from autumn bun, which is tilted on one side of the head and looks like it is going to fall. Among the clay, pottery figurines and wooden figurines unearthed in Changsha, Hunan, Xi 'an, Shaanxi and Heze, Shandong, it is common to fall into a bun or bun.
Venison bread. Wang Xianqian's Notes on the Book of the Later Han Dynasty says, "Women in China have deer buns." Yan Xue explained that the venison steamed stuffed bun has "upper and lower wheels", which means it is like a layer of wheels. The lower wheel is big and the upper wheel is small. Comb this bun, there must be a row. " Judging from Yan Xue's description, the deer bun is not complicated, but it is gorgeous.
Women's hairstyles in Han Dynasty are rich and exquisite. In addition to the above hairstyles, women's hairstyles in the Han Dynasty include Yaotai bun, Yingchun bun, Chuiyun bun, Panhuan bun, Tongxin bun, Triangle bun, Triple bun and Double bun.
4. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, women worshipped the fairy-like high bun and liked the high and dangerous shape. At this time, the wig technology has also made great progress, and various styles of fake buns have appeared.
Fake bun During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, fake bun was defined as jewelry for marrying women. "Literature General Examination" Volume 1 14 years: "Wei system, nobles, ladies and below, sericulture, all big hands bun." Big steamed buns are fake steamed buns. During this period, steamed stuffed buns were also very popular among the people. Jin Shu? "Five Elements Records" records: "In Taiyuan, princesses and women have to put their hair on their temples slowly, thinking that it is an ornament. Since they use a lot of hair, they can't keep wearing it, but wear wood and cages, called fake buns or wigs. " During the Northern Qi Dynasty, the form of fake bun developed towards simplification, and there appeared flying, dangerous, evil and deviant hairstyles. North seven books? The young master's book says, "It is as dangerous as a bird for a woman to cut and pick fake buns. As for the south, the bun is in the west, starting from the palace and surrounded by the palace. "
The styles of steamed buns in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties are diverse. The popular "Gai Mo" in Wei and Jin Dynasties was a kind of fake bun. Jin Chenggong's "The Ming of Covering a Bun" made a special description of covering a bun, saying, "Or make a bun, a southern golden wing, a pearl star, and a prosperous decoration." The bun is inlaid with gold ornaments and has a strict system. Unmarried women are not allowed to use it, and married women of different grades are not allowed to leapfrog. Ordinary women not only tie their hair in various bun styles, but also wear fake ones. But this kind of bun is relatively simple, and the jewelry on it is not as complicated and gorgeous as that on the bun, which is called "slow-tilting bun". The picture below shows the pottery figurines unearthed from Mufu Mountain outside the central gate of Nanjing, Jiangsu Province, that is, the woman wearing fake buns.
Snake bread. The snake bun was created by Cao's wife. "Cai Lan Magazine" said: "After Zhen entered the palace, there was a green snake in the court, and she kept spitting red beads. If Woods is big and doesn't hurt people, if people want to hurt it, it will disappear. After dressing up every day, (snakes) tie a bun in front of their back, and the back is different. Because the effect is a bun, which is wonderful. So the bun at the back is different every day, and the number is Lingshe bun. It was drawn up by the imperial secretary, and ten cannot be one or two. " Snake bun is a variety of bun styles, and different combing methods will lead to different styles.
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, many women imitated the customs of ethnic minorities in the western regions and tied their hair in a single or double-ring bun, towering over their heads. The following picture is a part of Gu Kaizhi's "The Goddess of Luo" in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, in which a woman wears a double-ring steamed stuffed bun.
There are also people who wear a bun or a bun. The picture below shows the colored portrait brick unearthed in Deng County, Henan Province. The picture shows a woman in a bun or bun.
In the Southern Dynasties, due to the influence of Buddhism, women often split their hair in the middle of the top and made it into a vertical ring, which was called "flying bun", which was first popular in the court and then popular among the people. You can also decorate the bun with walking pins, flower pins, tweezers or flowers.
5. Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties
Among women's hairstyles in the past dynasties, women's hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty are the most novel, both inheriting the previous generation and deliberately innovating on the basis of inheritance. The richness and rapid change of female hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty are unprecedented. Generally speaking, the hair styles in the Sui Dynasty were relatively simple and did not change much. Usually flat-topped, with hair piled up layer by layer, such as a hat. This hairstyle was still used in the early Tang Dynasty, but the top was not as flat as that of the Sui Dynasty, and it was towering and mostly cloud-shaped. When I arrived in Emperor Taizong, the bun became higher and higher, and the forms became more and more abundant. In Tang Gaozu, semi-steamed bun shops, anti-bowl steamed bun shops and Leyou steamed bun shops are very popular in the palace. During the reign of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, there were double-ring Wang Xian bun, Uighur bun and sorrow bun in the palace. Zhenyuan years, but also created a soft bun, makeup bun and other styles. During the Five Dynasties, women's hairstyles began to return to simplicity, mainly with high bun.
Women's hairstyles in Tang Dynasty are mainly divided into three categories, namely, bun, hairpin and sideburns.
The bun reached its peak in the Tang Dynasty, with extremely rich and exquisite bun styles. Here, I just briefly introduce Ji Hua's novel and beautiful bun.
Flower bun, as its name implies, is a bun style in which various flowers are inserted as headdresses. Li Bai's Gong Xing Yue Ci has a sentence of "the flowers in the mountains are embedded in a treasure bun". People in the Tang Dynasty attached importance to and loved peony as a symbol of wealth and the king of flowers. Noble women like to use peony flowers as a hairpin and insert them in their hair bun to show their enchanting and gorgeous posture. This kind of bun is described in the famous painting Zan Hua Tu by Zhou Fang in the Tang Dynasty. In Zhou Fang's paintings, the lady's bun is high, black and bright. The gorgeous peony flowers on the bun make the ladies more enchanting.
In addition to peony flowers, you can also insert various small flowers as decoration. A picture of a chess lady was unearthed from the tomb of Astana 187 in Turpan. Chess girl has a high bun on her head and her hair is shining. The flower on her hairpin is a kind of small flower. The small flowers in the high bun make the whole bun exquisite and charming.
6. Song Liao Jin and Yuan Dynasties
The hairstyle of women in Song Dynasty was mainly bun. Women's combs in Song Dynasty mainly include high crown and long comb, big comb wrap, high bun, concentric bun, chaotian bun, banana bun, pan bun, pan bun, bun, loose bun and flower bun. Here are only two bun styles: high crown long comb and three bun elegant.
Long comb with high crown. Long comb with high crown, referred to as "crown comb", is a kind of high bun. In Song Dynasty, the urban economy was developed, and urban women liked the bun style with high crown and long comb very much. The prosperity of urban economy makes luxury goods popular, which is reflected in women's hairstyles. Metropolitan women especially like high crowns and big combs. During the Song Renzong period, it was forbidden to use white horns as crowns. The crown width should not exceed one foot, and the comb length should not exceed four inches, so as to curb the extravagant wind.
Sangia. The so-called three-bun elegance means combing three buns on the top of your head. In the Song Dynasty, there was a saying that "the old man with a white head wears a red flower and the woman with a black head wears a three-legged bun". Girls in the Song Dynasty also wore a three-legged bun. This hairstyle is pretty and lively, which is easily loved by girls.
Women's hair styles in Liao Dynasty were not as rich as those in Song Dynasty, and they were usually high and double. Fapi, the most primitive hairstyle, also existed in Liao Dynasty, is the primitive remnant of Qidan nationality. Women in the Jin Dynasty often braided their hair into a bun, wrapped it in a headscarf or decorated it with a garland crown.
Women's cloud bun high comb in yuan dynasty. Panlong steamed buns are also the main style of steamed buns. Yang Tieya, Ancient Yuefu? There is a saying in the poor girl's ballad, "Panlong has a bun and no longer combs it. Who is the treasure without strings?" In addition, women's hairstyles in the Yuan Dynasty include low hair style and hanging bun style. Girls in the Yuan Dynasty liked double bun. In Xie's poem, there is a saying that "only daughters have double buns".
7. Ming and Qing Dynasties
Women's hair styles in Ming Dynasty were not as rich as those in Song Dynasty, but they also had many unique features. In the early Ming Dynasty, the women's bun didn't change much, and it was basically the style of Song and Yuan Dynasties. After Jiajing, there began to be more changes. In the Ming Dynasty, women's hair styles mainly included peach heart bun, peach pointed bun, goose gall heart bun, degenerate bun, peony bun, panlong bun, Du Weiniang bun, wind bun and flower bun.
Fake bun was still popular in Ming dynasty, and it was also a common hairstyle for women in Ming dynasty. Family bun enriches the style of hair style. Generally, it is woven with iron wire and braided with hair outside to become a fixed ornament, which is called "drum". The drum is about half the height of the original steamed stuffed bun. When wearing it, it will shine on the bun to fix the hair. Gu Yiyuan's guest appearance in "Redundant Words" said: "Nowadays, women in Beijing are decorated behind their backs ... they are decorated with iron and silk, and their hair is woven outside, and the bun is half covered, which is called a drum with a hairpin." Fake steamed stuffed buns are available in the styles of "Luohan Pian", "Lazy Comb", "Flying Swallow" and "Loose Pillow", and are also sold in some jewelry stores. Until the early Qing dynasty, there were still women who liked fake buns.
Women's headdresses in Ming Dynasty are very colorful, including golden hairpin, golden hairpin, golden sideburns and impatiens. Women's headdresses in the Ming Dynasty also had various pleasing names, such as "Plum Blossom", "Golden Stranded Lamp Hairpin", "Rhino Hairpin" and "Diancui He Juan". In the picture below, the hairpin inlaid with jewels is on the left and the hairpin inlaid with jewels is on the right.
There are two styles of women's hair styles in Qing Dynasty, Manchu and Han, each with its own differences. In the early Qing Dynasty, the two hairstyles of Manchu and Han still adhered to traditional customs and maintained their original shapes. Since then, under the influence of each other, both of them have changed obviously.
The popular hairstyles of women in Qing Dynasty changed with the passage of time, and the customs in different parts of the country were also different, which made the hairstyles of Han women in Qing Dynasty extremely rich and complicated. In the mid-Qing Dynasty, Han women began to imitate the hairstyles of Manchu ladies-in-waiting. Since then, flat bun, round bun and wishful bun have become popular. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Han women began to advocate braiding, which was popular only among girls at first, and then gradually spread to young and middle-aged women, and the number of braiding people decreased day by day.
The popular hairstyles of Han women in Qing Dynasty mainly include loose-sided flat bun, round head, flat bun, dovetail, spiral bun, swinging bun, peony head, hibiscus head, Yangzhou osmanthus head, long bun and shelf top.
The hairstyle of Manchu women in Qing Dynasty was mostly decorated with curly hair. Xunzi takes iron wire or rattan as the skeleton, and the bread is covered with black gauze, which is inlaid with various decorations. Ordinary Manchu women often comb "fork head", also known as "two head" or "handle head". Influenced by the hairstyle of Han women, Manchu women comb their hair flat, commonly known as "prefix". After Xianfeng, this bun became higher and higher, and gradually developed into an "arched" decoration. It is not hair, but made of silk and satin, just put it on your head and insert some flowers. It is called "big wings", commonly known as "flag head".
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