Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Introducing the clothing specialties of our Shaanxi province! Fast !!!!!!!!!!!
Introducing the clothing specialties of our Shaanxi province! Fast !!!!!!!!!!!
The Qing Dynasty, men wore robes, the style of the straight collar with a slanted lapel, nailed cloth pimples buttons, ankle-length. Earlier, when wearing the robe, outside the coat must be set, to the Republic of China period, the robe is used alone. The robe is a symbol of social status in the old days, often for the rich merchants, squires, intellectuals attire, the working people usually rarely wear robes, only encountered major celebrations or important ceremonial interactions only to wear blue cloth tunic.
The waistcoat is a man's garment from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, used as a dress. The coat was long and stocky, with elbow-length sleeves, and was placketed and worn over a long shirt. The material is mostly black or tawny satin. Horse coat is a Manchu riding coat, easy to increase or decrease, not only to protect from the cold, but also conducive to riding and shooting.
After the Manchu men generally wear regular clothes, Han men also used as a dress to wear. 30 years later, the wearer of the horse coat gradually decreased, after the founding of the country, the horse coat and robes were all eliminated.
Northern Shaanxi has cold winters and the lowest temperatures in the province. Here, agriculture and animal husbandry parallel, fur production is more, more wear sheepskin jacket in winter to protect from the cold. Rich people wear lambskin, commonly known as "lamb skin tube", the wool is fine, soft and curved, known as the "nine bends", hanging fabrics on the outside, known as the "hanging face leather jacket", wearing a light and soft. Crops are wearing old sheepskin, not hanging fabrics, wool towards the inside, skin towards the outside, not afraid of dirt, not afraid of rubbing, not even the buttons are not necessary, take a cloth belt to the waist a stranglehold, can be sheltered from the wind and cold. When you lie down to rest on the hillside, you can cover your body with it, which is a coat during the day and a quilt at night. It is economical and practical, with many benefits, but it is difficult to catch lice, which is vividly described in a few local jingles: "Wear it during the day and cover it at night; when it is cloudy and raining, the fur faces outward, and the lice bite and sunbathe against the wall". The old sheepskin jacket is bulky and looks rustic, but it is very warm, so the farmers love it, and the sheep farmers can't live without it.
Women wear a long shirt called "cheongsam", which is the most national characteristics of women's clothing. The cheongsam is a Manchu women's robe, after the 1911 Revolution, Han Chinese women also commonly worn. It can be used as both dress and casual clothing for all seasons. The cheongsam has had several ups and downs, but is still popular today. The cheongsam has undergone numerous changes in terms of waist, length, slit, sleeve, neckline and hemline. The whole appearance of the cheongsam changed from a loose straight line to a curved line that hugged the waist and emphasized the chest, waist and hips, showing the clear and smooth curves of the female figure. The characteristic of cheongsam is that the upper and lower garments are not divided, which eliminates the trouble of sewing and matching of shirts and pants, shirts and skirts. And it is like a skirt, not a skirt, wearing a comfortable, light and airy walk, looks very slim, very beautiful, but also very generous. Its modeling and Chinese women's gentle, shy, subtle character is extremely harmonious, and therefore by the Chinese women's general popularity. 50's, cheongsam was regarded as feudal landlords and bourgeoisie products, once not very popular, 80's after the restoration of the vitality, and novel design, style variety, long-sleeved, short-sleeved, high slit, low slit, round neck, square neck, high neck, low neck, and so on various kinds of competition for the beautiful, colorful, fully displaying the new style of modern women.
The opposite of the long shirt is the short coat, which is the daily attire of the farmers. The traditional Chinese short clothes have two kinds of lapel and oblique lapel. Most of the men's Chinese tops are placketed, commonly known as "placketed lab coat", the style is straight, long to the hips, both sides of the small∶, straight collar, the front pinned a row of cloth pimple buttons, the lower two sides of the same fabric as the pocket. This kind of short coat has cotton, folder, single points. The cotton jacket was made by putting cotton between the inside and the outside of a jacket with a lapel, so as to protect it from the wind and cold in winter. Those without cotton are called "jacket" and are worn in spring and fall. The single shirt was worn in summer. In order to prevent the jacket from being stained and to avoid the trouble of dismantling and washing it, a single shirt, called a "smock," is usually worn over the jacket, and more than two smocks are often sewn to replace a single jacket. after the 1980s, this type of short jacket was gradually phased out, and only some elderly people still wear it. Only some of the elderly still wear them.
The traditional Chinese short garment for women is the tilted placket, commonly known as the "big placket". From the neckline from the oblique nail a slip of cloth lump pan flower buttons, obeisance mouth open on the right, under the lapel on both sides of the open small:, large lapel just to the chest wrapped tightly, appearing simple and dignified. Women's short shirts in the Qing Dynasty can be as long as the knee, high collar, large sleeves. Collar, placket, hem and cuffs, etc. to set a piece of inch-wide different colors of fabric edges, called "set edge", some do not set fabric edges, only set a rounded edge of lace, called "roll edge". Later on, the shirts were not edged and rolled, and were changed to have low collars and narrow sleeves, and although the length of the body was shortened accordingly, it was still longer than the hips. This kind of clothes not only had good warmth, but also had some practical value. When you go to the vegetable field to pick melons and beans, you don't need to carry baskets and cages, you lift up the front of your shirt with one hand and pick with the other, and when you've picked enough, you go home with your arms. Going to the village store to buy small miscellaneous goods also do not bring pockets, the front lapel lift, one by one loaded down, can be leisurely and return. This reflects the aesthetic characteristics of Shaanxi women, who emphasize affordability and thrift. Now young and middle-aged women have given up the lapel coat and pursued a variety of uniforms and suits, and only some of the older women are still clinging to the "lapel coat" of the original color.
Women in Guanzhong and northern Shaanxi have the custom of wearing a belly bowl, which is a kind of underwear worn close to the body. Its style is a square piece of cloth cut off the upper corner, into a concave shallow semicircular shape, at both ends of the nail with a hanging collar, the lower corner or pointed or rounded, across the two corners of the belt tied to the waist, to protect the chest and abdomen, so that the stomach and intestines from the wind and cold, both the role of bras and wrapped belly. Most of the bib surface with decorative flowers, common open pomegranate, twin lotus, peach, mandarin ducks playing in the water and so on. In remote villages, some older women in the summer only with a bib to work at home, this phenomenon illustrates the practicality of wrapping the belly.
Shannan Bashan deep women's clothing has a very peculiar habits, long to wear inside, short to wear outside, three pieces of clothing, one of the most inside the white, the longest, the middle of a red, the second longest, outside the blue, the shortest. Each piece should be short a finger width, wear up the edge of the lower lapel white, red and blue levels well, the color is clear. Proverbs " women boast of rich than the clothes pretty ", wearing a few pieces of clothing at a glance, young women can wear this person can be proud of a township, showing a kind of vanity.
Shanxi rural areas, middle-aged and elderly men are dressed after the custom of wrapping the belt. Commonly known as " three clamps as a cotton, three cotton as a wrap ", the local people attach great importance to this " a wrap ". Belt is about half a foot wide long cloth belt, or black or blue, color is not confined, the length is not fixed size, generally have to be wrapped around the waist on the two - three rounds, wrapped the thicker the warmer, not only work well, wipe the sweat is also very convenient. Going out to the market or working in the field, the old men often put the long pipe dry tobacco bag, smoke purse, fire sickle and loaded with flint small cloth bag tied together, inserted in the waist asked to go to the market to buy a few bits and pieces of supplies can also be pinned in the belt. Sometimes by chance can not find the belt, take a grass rope should also be wrapped in the waist to break. Not only men favor wrapping belt, some women also can not leave the belt. They would wrap their long belts around their chests in a cross, then around their backs and breasts, and then wrap their children around their backs so that they could go out to work or work in the fields. A belt may seem unassuming, but it has become an indispensable object in the daily lives of farmers everywhere.
The long coat worn by modern men is a Western-style coat, which emerged in the 1920s. It is styled with a large lapel. It has two rows of large plastic buttons on the chest, is knee-length, and has slanted pockets on both sides. At that time, it was mostly worn by teachers, students and ordinary intellectuals in winter, and was called "overcoat" in the countryside. This kind of clothing is still popular today, but in the past the kind of cotton has been rare, now the coat material is mostly tweed. In addition, there is a short coat, popular in the 1950s and 1960s, and the style of the coat is exactly the same, but shorter than the coat, only up to the bottom of the hip, often fur or planted velvet for the collar, both sides of the pockets to do oblique insertion, walking and standing can be inserted into the warmth of their hands. This short coat is now very difficult to see, mostly replaced by down jacket.
---Men's summer top coat called "undershirt". Mostly made of white cloth or fine linen, the shape is quite similar to the shoulders, no collar, no sleeves. Guanzhong called it a "sweatshirt" and Shaanxi Bei called it a "lab coat". These clothes are thin and short, and are light and cool in summer.
There are two kinds of kangshi worn by men in spring and fall, also known as "folder back heart" and "cotton undershirt", and it is also a kind of collarless, sleeveless lapel short coat. This short coat can protect the front and back of the heart from the wind and cold, wearing and very convenient, the most popular in the northern Shaanxi region, the boys labor, wearing a shirt, like to wear a shirt, like the kit outside the kangshi, dry work to look dry and sharp.
Children, whether male or female child, summer season only wear wrap belly, Huaxian area called "mom belly" or "hemp pocket". Is a piece of diamond-shaped cloth to protect the chest and navel, to avoid the stomach and intestines from the cold. The top is nailed with a band, which is placed around the neck, and the left and right corners are also nailed with cloth bands, which are tied from behind. Exquisite belly wrap generally use brightly colored fabrics, embroidered with beautiful patterns. Customs in Guanzhong, the child's wrapped belly to use five-color silk thread embroidered on top of a tiger, both beautiful, but also to ward off evil spirits. Guanzhong children have the habit of wearing "five poison vest", this undershirt with red, blue, yellow, white, green, five colors of fabric spliced together, embroidered with centipedes, scorpions, geckos, spiders, toads, five animal images. Folklore says that the five poison undershirt has the role of "attacking poison with poison", so use it to wear on the children or teenagers, that can get rid of evil and protect the children's healthy growth.
In the Guanzhong countryside, there is also a "cassock jacket" is also very popular. Women will be colorful edges of rags cut into diamonds, squares, triangles and other geometric patterns, each pattern of the side of the length of a centimeter or so, and then the many small pieces of cloth sewn together, it will be made into a small sweatshirt, a small jacket, worn on the body of the three- and four-year-olds, looks colorful, very nice. Now it has become a tourist handicraft and is sold at stalls in various tourist spots, and many foreign friends who come to Shaanxi to visit are eager to buy it.
---" bib " is used for infants and young children's clothing, made of floral cloth or plain cloth, above the nail band, hanging between the child's collar, the two sides also nailed to the cloth band, tied to the back. It is used to protect the child's chest and prevent saliva from staining the clothes. The "cloak" is a winter and spring windbreaker against the cold, no collar and no sleeves, it will be draped over the body, with a belt tied under the neck, the shape of which is quite like a big clock buckled, so there is also "a buckle clock" said. In the old days, when rich families went out in winter to use it to protect themselves from the cold, and then adults abandoned the use, only children continue to use. Now you can still see a lot of infants and young children have a big red satin cloak.
The windbreaker is the rise of the 80's, its style and the coat is basically the same, made of tarpaulin, mostly gray or beige, go out and wear in the suit or wool coat outside, not only can prevent the wind to cover the dust, in the event of a small rain or snow can also be shielded.
After the Xinhai Revolution, the most popular men's clothing was the "Zhongshan suit". It is said that the Zhongshan suit is Mr. Sun Yat-sen advocated the design, so it got its name. This garment is wider than the suit, long and under the buttocks, is the lapel type, the front has five plastic round buttons, folded small collar, clothes in front of the upper part of the two small patch pockets with a cover, the lower part of the two large patch pockets with a cover, four pockets are nailed with a button. This kind of clothing is characterized by easy to wear and fit, beautiful and generous, so zhongshan suit has become one of China's formal dress. This kind of clothing has been popular from the early years of the Republic of China to the present, especially in the 50s to 70s, adult men all over the world, regardless of their class, wore this kind of serious zhongshan suit almost uniformly. It was only in the 80's that this monotonous clothing situation changed due to the proliferation of suits, jackets, jeans, sweatshirts, and so on.
The suit, which was imported from the West, is characterized by a collar, three buttons on the chest, and a split back. It is comfortable to wear and looks elegant. It can be used as a daily wear, but also in the more solemn social scene with dress. Women don't wear suits as rigid and formal as men do, they don't need to wear a tie, they can also leave their buttons unbuttoned, and their shirts inside can be brightly colored.
Traditional Chinese pants in Shaanxi are wide-waisted and long-crotched, commonly known as "big crotch pants," regardless of gender. The pants and the waist are made of different colors of fabric. The pants are blue or black, and the waist is made of a five-inch wide piece of cloth. When the pants are put on, a wide pleat is made at the waist of the pants and tied with a belt. The belt is called the "waistband of the pants," and the belts of young men and women are often decorated with embroidered bird and flower designs. The legs of these pants are also very wide, although very costly cloth. But the figure is loose and comfortable. Older people, winter and spring season to use a pair of silk woven black band near the ankle bone of the trouser leg tube tied up, called "tied legs", to prevent the cold wind invasion, the band is called "tied feet belt". Although the custom of tying pants is very common everywhere, this custom has another role in the Bashan region of southern Shaanxi. People in southern Shaanxi Province know that there is a water leech in the paddy fields, and in southern Shaanxi Province, there is a similar small animal called "dry leech" in the mountains, it grows in the grass, people are walking, it will quietly climb up the legs, head into the flesh, the more people pull it more into the drill, only in the opposite side of the leg to beat, it will automatically exit. In order to prevent the invasion of pests, when you go out, you have to first tie the pants, over time, it has become a Bashan people have a unique custom. Now the big crotch pants are nearly extinct, mostly replaced by western-style pants. Western-style pants are easy to fit, with pockets on both sides. Men's front crotch openings, and openings nailed with buttons or zippers; women's front more than not open, in the waist of the left side of the pants to open a small∶, and nailed with pants buttons.
" set of pants " popular in the 30s ago, its form is similar to the child's crotch pants, only two legs, no crotch closure, the upper end of the buckle trip, can be tied on the belt, it will cover the outside of the pants, mainly for the protection of calves and thighs from the cold. Because it has no back waist, no back buttocks, so some people sneer at this wear is "put on the pants TuYangLi, buttocks on the heel of the cold miles". In the old days, they were mostly owned by the rich and powerful. "Horse pants" popular in the Republic of China years, initially for the army cavalry clothing, and then there are a few folk imitation. The crotch of this kind of pants is fat, the leg is narrow, and the warmth is good. The outer leg opening, nail double rows of buttons or zippers. Most of the military and political circles and rich businessmen to wear, the general crops do not wear, soon after the founding of the country is disappeared.
"Skirt pants" is the 80s began to popularize women's pants, long and foot hock, wide legs, mostly made of light silk. Wear it in the summer wind cool, walking two wide pants tube suddenly open and close, like a skirt non-skirt, appearing light and airy, quite popular with the city's young women's favorite. "Pants" is a kind of shorts, men's summer labor wear. In addition, both men and women, close to wear shorts are also known as "pants".
Skirt, ancient called "clothes", is used by both men and women underwear, after the Tang Dynasty, men wore robes, pants, but not skirts, skirts have become women's exclusive products, "skirt hairpin" word has become a pronoun for women. Qing Dynasty women wore "pleated skirt", skirt and wide and long, the length of its feet to cover the surface of the skirt to play a lot of wrinkles, on the one hand, play a role in binding the waist of the skirt, on the other hand, also appears to be flowing and beautiful, pleated skirt of the name that is derived from this. This skirt is made of satin, non-rich people do not have. " Ten belt skirt " popular in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China period. The whole skirt is embroidered, with a small silver bell hanging from the top. Wearing wooden shoes with bells, the dress tinkled with every step. There are two folk sayings to describe this kind of attire: "The skirt with ten straps is choking and jangling, and the wooden-soled shoes are banging and whistling". In the old days, women from wealthy families often used this skirt as a dress. The "embroidered skirt" is a skirt embroidered with colorful bird and flower patterns, mostly made of red silk. This skirt is not the usual clothing, the old rural wedding, the bride must wear red embroidered skirt. " Monokini " is made of general fabric, this is a kind of skirt, whether labor or leisure can be worn, mostly for the ordinary family women's wear, wear are tied within the blouse.
From ancient times, the skirt has been one of the favorite clothing of women. In modern times, the skirt style is more colorful, design and production has been diversified, personalized, very rich in the flavor of the times. Summarized, the modern skirt has a long skirt, skirt, short skirt. Long skirt can cover the calf or ankle, from the shape of the flared skirt, straight skirt and fishtail skirt three. The flared skirt has a wide, flared hemline. This type of skirt covers thick legs and large hips, and gives the illusion of being slightly lower on the taller side of the body. The skirt is knee-length, and can be divided into two types: suit skirt and pleated skirt. Suit skirt is suitable for middle-aged and elderly women to wear, for cultured professional women, can make it more mature and stable charm. Pleated skirt is suitable for young people to wear, the abdomen is large or short, through the straight line can give a person the illusion of slim. Short skirts are all above the knee, and their styles include the "one-step skirt" with a very small lower slit, the "lantern skirt" which is simple, bright and elegant, and the "mini skirt" which is modern and romantic. "
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