The changing process of traditional handicrafts

Handwork, hand-made machine, power machine, industrial structure adjustment and transfer period, post-modern high-speed development period of textile industry.

The origin mechanism of ancient textile technology in China: hemp-the earliest textile plant fiber raw material; Silk-the earliest textile animal fiber material: cotton-the most important textile material. In addition, China's unique climate and species gave birth to the wild silk weaving technology invented by the ancients, which blazed a unique road for the development of silk technology in the late Neolithic period and was the most important creative achievement of human textile technology. From mulberry planting, sericulture, silk reeling to weaving, it needs to go through a variety of technological processes and operations. In the practice of mulberry silk weaving, the ancients accumulated rich scientific and technological knowledge and experience in botany, entomology, materials science, chemistry and mechanics, which left us valuable scientific and technological achievements.

First, the primitive handmade textile period (before the 22nd century BC) was roughly equivalent to the primitive society before the Xia Dynasty, that is, the "Three Emperors and Five Emperors" in historical books and legends of previous times. This period can be divided into two stages: 1 mainly collecting raw materials; Roughly equivalent to the paleolithic age. At that time, people collected pueraria lobata, hemp, silk and the feathers of birds and animals they hunted and knitted them locally, which were basically made by hand without tools. 2. The main stage of cultivating raw materials: roughly equivalent to the Neolithic Age. With the development of agriculture and animal husbandry, people gradually learned the methods of cultivating fiber raw materials such as planting hemp, raising silkworms and raising sheep. At that time, more textile tools were used and the products were more elaborate. In addition to wear resistance, patterns and colors have also begun to be woven. But labor productivity is still extremely low. 2. During the weaving period of hand-made machines (2 1 century-AD 1870), the tools used in this period have been gradually improved and developed into a complete set of machines including prime movers, transmission devices and actuators. But this kind of machine is driven by manpower, and people's hands and feet also participate in some technical actions, so it is called "manual machine". This period is also divided into two stages: 1 the formation stage of hand weaving: roughly equivalent to the Xia Dynasty to the Warring States Period (2/kloc-0 BC/century-222 BC). At that time, silk reeling machines, spinning wheels and pedal looms developed into manual machines one after another. People take part in technical actions such as drafting and weft insertion, and they have to pull pulleys or pedal machines with their hands or feet. In this way, the labor productivity is greatly improved compared with the original manual labor, and the producers are gradually becoming professional. Hemp spinning and wool spinning technologies have also developed and improved accordingly. Realizing manual mechanization is the first leap in the history of textile production. It appeared in China a long time ago, and then spread to foreign countries through various channels. Combined with the creation of local people, the textile production level was greatly improved. 2. Development stage of hand-made machine textiles: equivalent to the Qin and Han Dynasties to the late Qing Dynasty (2265438 BC+0-65438 AD +0870). Hand-made textile machines gradually developed and appeared in various forms. For example, silk reeling and spinning wheel have developed from manual to several double spindles (2-4 spindles) pedal; Looms have formed two series: ordinary looms and jacquard looms. The first leap in textile production in China was about 500- 300 BC. At that time, China had popularized the earliest machines in human history, such as silk reeling machines, spinning wheels and looms. This hand-made textile machine was later recorded on the stone reliefs of the Han Dynasty, and its image was preserved. Due to the popularity of this manual machine, the output, quality and labor productivity of textiles have been greatly improved. Textile processing and manual machines have reached a generally perfect level in the Song Dynasty. The appearance of regular satin makes the fabric structure more perfect. The hand-made looms used by one person in a family have been quite complete and have been passed down to modern times, and have not changed much so far. After the Southern Song Dynasty, cotton textile production gradually developed into the main textile production in many parts of the country. Cotton cloth has become the main material of people's daily clothes all over the country. Pueraria lobata was gradually eliminated, and hemp also lost its position as a bulk textile raw material. In some areas, a 32-spindle spinning wheel driven by animal power or water power has appeared to meet the needs of large-scale collective production and become the embryonic form of power textile machinery. But the loom is still operated by 1-2 people, which is suitable for one household. Third, during the weaving period of power machine (after 187 1 year), the power of textile machine gradually developed from animal power and water power to steam power and electricity, which gradually transformed the scattered form of one household or small manual workshop into a centralized large-scale industrial production form. The role of manpower has changed from the main driving force to the main function of looking after machines and carrying raw materials and products, which greatly improves labor productivity. This is the second leap in the history of textile production. This leap in the world began in western Europe as early as18th century, and then gradually spread to other places. The mutual promotion of spinning technology and weaving technology in the industrial revolution In the British industrial revolution, the two technological innovations of spinning and weaving promoted each other, thus finally realizing the great development of the textile industry. Spinning is first done by hand, without spindles. Spindles or textured spindles are used from special spinning to air-jet spinning, while air-jet spinning does not use spindles. Spinning spindles are used vertically, while manual and pedal spinning wheels are used horizontally. Multi-spindle spinning machines are used to erect lakes with various types of power spinning machines. Twisted winding machine _ Historically, it is "long separation and long combination, long separation will be combined." It can be seen that the appearance of each new machine determines the shortcomings of its old form and inherits its advantages. However, under the new development conditions, what was previously denied may be reused in another form. The new spinning method that jumped out of the old frame was obtained by a leap from quantitative change to qualitative change in the evolution of thousands of years. It can be represented by the block diagram as follows: Development diagram of spinning frame. From the development history of loom, it can be seen that the weave information clip was originally a horizontally arranged heald bar or heald frame, then developed into a vertical small flower book, then developed into a horizontal annular large flower book, and finally an annular pattern chain. The opener is hand-held on the original waist machine without peristalsis, and it changes from single peristalsis to double peristalsis and then to multiple peristalsis on the manual loom. After adopting the combined heddle method, the creep is reduced, and it is not necessary to creep on the jacquard machine. These developments can be shown in the following block diagram: development diagram of looms and tools. Four. During the period of industrial structure adjustment and transfer (1960 ~ 2000), there were three obvious industrial transfers in the history of textile industry development, as shown in the left figure below. At present, the third industrial transfer is under way, that is, from South Korea, Hong Kong and Taiwan to other developing countries in Asia (mainly Chinese mainland). The shift of textile production center of gravity is the inevitable result of international division of labor in the process of globalization of production and trade. In fact, after three textile industry transfers, exporting countries have not completely withdrawn from the textile industry. They constantly develop and monopolize high value-added products, while importing countries occupy low value-added production links. Specifically, in the end, developed countries will focus on the two ends of the industrial chain: the front-end raw material development and the back-end deep processing and market channels. Developing countries occupy the middle end of the industrial chain, with low added value and relatively low technology content. The ultimate goal of industrial adjustment is to pursue higher profit rate. Developed countries continue to develop and monopolize high value-added products, and the production of some low value-added products with relatively backward technology is transferred to underdeveloped countries. In the industrial value chain, there is a trend that profits shift from manufacturing links to sales links, and from intermediate links of the value chain to upstream and downstream links respectively. 5. In the post-modern high-speed development period of textile industry (2000 ~), the scientific and technical personnel of textile industry in developed countries made unremitting efforts to change the labor-intensive situation of textile industry and made some progress. This is also the goal of the textile industry in developing countries. Countries are trying to apply cutting-edge technology to textiles, which has changed the face of textile production. It can be predicted that textile production in the future will gradually turn to technology-intensive production, which is characterized by surrealism of raw materials, intelligence of equipment, intensive technology, functionalization of products, beautiful environment and informationization of operation. By then, textile raw materials will be mainly produced by industrial methods, rather than relying mainly on agricultural and animal husbandry methods. The quality of raw materials will combine the advantages of natural fibers and synthetic fibers to overcome their respective shortcomings. The variety of raw materials will be more diversified to meet different needs in all aspects. Textile equipment will be automatically sorted and controlled by electronic computer system, and will be developed into an automatic production line on the basis of single machine automation. The long technological process of textile dyeing and finishing will be gradually shortened and further continuous through technological progress, so that it is easier to form the overall intelligent production system of textile mills, which will further liberate people from the machines and make the workshops run automatically with few or no people. Labor productivity has been greatly improved again. Textile products will be greatly enriched.