Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - Dian Cuisine people's dietary memories: "Where there are Chinese, there is a round table, and a round table signifies reunion."
Dian Cuisine people's dietary memories: "Where there are Chinese, there is a round table, and a round table signifies reunion."
Purple ceramic pots and pans stacked neatly stacked, steam pounds spilling, the air scattered with the original flavor of the steamer chicken, as if the smoke of the food war. The master is on the sidelines, nearly four hours of steaming, never leave. Every repetition of the turnover steam, ordinary waiting, and every inconspicuous process, are carrying this pot of flavor between the steamer chicken flavor and temperament.
A dish is a kung fu.
In the refinement of time, Steamboat Chicken carries the weight of more than 200 years of history. Inheritance is not only a memory of the flavor of Yunnan people, but also the continuation of the ancient artisanal quality of cooking and steaming. Food men and women traveled around, some people have the only true heritage, Yu Haoran is one of them.
Between the square inch field, foreign country it country, we all miss and abide by the voice of the heart and memory of the flavor. Chinese New Year flavor, Sina Yunnan into the memory of the old Kunming, dialogue with Yunnan Yunnan Dian cuisine famous enterprise Fuzhao building owner Yu Haoran, talk about the New Year's Eve dinner in the indispensable that a dish. The form of the New Year's Eve dinner is updated and changed, the fang is indestructible, the memory of the New Year's flavor will never change.
"New Year's Eve dinner is only once, and the atmosphere of reunion is very important." In the catering industry for many years, Yu Haoran most nostalgic when the old people at home to participate in the production of the New Year's Eve dinner. Those who can wear new clothes, get the new year's money on the very happy and simple days for Yu Haoran are all time-honored childhood memories of New Year's Eve.
"If a local cuisine represents the character of a local person, what grows in the land is what is eaten, so gradually formed a local cuisine and dishes, food is a memory."
In Yunnan cuisine, most of the production is simple, with the most direct approach to cooking, to retain the original flavor of the original ingredients, may be Yu Haoran want to retain the "dietary memory". "From a pot of original flavor of the steamer chicken, carried by the simplicity of the sense of gravity, often reflecting the Yunnan people are not very good at expressing themselves, do not know how to package and market their own 'spirit of the mountains'." He has always believed that the dish is full of vitality, but also need to remember things to carry. And to carry this generation, perhaps the hometown flavor called "Yunnan cuisine".
"Cultural dining is not a deep pile of culture, it needs the humanities through, the need for additional history, through a meal can learn more cultural and historical connotations of Yunnan, which is the benign development of the traditional catering industry." In 2002, at the time of Sichuan and Guangdong cuisine hot, Yunnan cuisine decline, with entrepreneurial dreams of Yu Haoran only 10 small tables "Fuzhao building" opened. At that time, pick up the old ancestral traditional Yunnan cuisine of the gold sign; at this time, Fuzhaolou local, authentic Dian cuisine restaurant impression of the heart of the diners.
Ding You year, the eighth day of the lunar month, in the Yu Hao Ran one of the few days of the year to paint, the door god, auspicious children's portraits will be his hand-painted, hand-shaping the flavor of the year has become one of the most eye-catching visual elements of the Fuzhao building.
Yu Haoran is a famous culture in Yunnan restaurant industry, writing and painting is his biggest hobby on weekdays. Therefore, he is often criticized by his peers in the catering industry as "not doing his job". In the early years, Yu Haoran was born from the painting profession, the earliest engaged in the advertising industry, and then change the career runway, he chose to do catering, he wanted to do an old store, an old store to do authentic, authentic Yunnan cuisine.
In Yu Haoran, there is not only a literati temperament through the look and temperament, but also close to the city's peace and wisdom. In his cuisine, there is no absolute standardization of dishes, he gave the chef the greatest freedom of innovation and enthusiasm; in the inheritance of dietary memories, he is close to the old Kunming city culture, in the Fuzhao building to present the bustling atmosphere of the neighborhood, so that diners have a "in the hometown" of the spiritual experience; in the life of his travels through the wilderness, and in the journey to leave some of the poetry and writing In life, he traveled to the wilderness and left some poems and short sentences as essays on what he saw ...... "Life needs some flexibility to retain more of humanity." It is Yu Haoran's openness and this elasticity, so that diners from the Fuzhao building to get more food culture experience.
When the traditional mode of the old store has not matched the needs of urban development, coupled with changes in the mode of food and beverage business body, the flow of people began to move towards a more centralized commercial body to go, Yu Haoran began to do some of the business district to try a small store, in addition to the traditional Fuzhaolou with a steady pace, to add a new store each year to expand the speed of continuous expansion, and so far, has been the formation of large-scale chain of nine stores catering enterprises, Fuzhaolou also In the Kunming business district Nanya, Wanda and other places to launch a small store with special characteristics.
"Dian cuisine to be placed in this sea to toss, to test, in order to stamp out the vitality of Yunnan cuisine, to explore the development path of the Fuzhao floor, showing the charm of the Dian cuisine food culture, more condensed Dian cuisine dare to go out of the courage." Innovation is for better development, adhere to the authentic Yunnan flavor and Yunnan's local market for many years, Yu Haoran has not considered the Fuzhao floor to the country? The answer is yes.
Open-minded not to stick to a particular culinary techniques, he hoped to Yunnan's food culture and dietary elements to convey out: "can be unique, can push the boundaries of the Dian cuisine need to go to the tide of people".
Where there are Chinese people, the traditional Chinese food business will not die. Because the Chinese people talk about 'love', young people and then change can not avoid going home for New Year's Eve reunion, that sense of ceremony will take young people to maturity, until they grow up, become a family, will still come back to the round table, which is the Chinese reunion concept." Even if the years change, Yu Haoran firmly believe that the traditional, memorable flavor, will never die out, people, no matter how far away, will eventually return to the round table.
The round table is the Chinese New Year's belonging, cooking pot symbolizes the reunion of red-hot, steam pot chicken all "righteousness". Heaven and earth, this pot of chicken, a New Year's Eve dinner, a get-together, are a ceremony, are in order to inherit and continue a flavor, a memory, of course, there is a friendship.
? -Remembering the night of the New Year's Eve dinner - Yu Haoran
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