Hanfu in ancient Chinese clothing

The clothes of Xia, Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties didn't really exist. According to the jade articles and stone statues unearthed from the tomb of Houjiazhuang and the tomb of the rich in Anyang, it can be known that the nobles in Shang Dynasty wore collar clothes, a gentry belt at their waist, a petticoat under them, and a city (knee-covering) in front of their abdomen. There are few figures left over from the Western Zhou Dynasty. Judging from the jade and bronze humanoid car unearthed in Luoyang, clothes, dresses, belts and markets are still the basic components of aristocratic men's wear. Its clothes are positive color and middle color, pay special attention to the market in front of the clothes. According to the bronze inscriptions in the Western Zhou Dynasty, Zhou Wang often gave clothes at the registration ceremony, such as "Zhu Shi, scallion yellow" (Mao), "Shi, Huang" (Xun Gui) and so on. In ancient literature, Cheng and Huang refer to "balance", which refers to knee covering, and "balance" refers to a whole set of accessories including jade binding group and jade pieces. The figurines unearthed from Changtaiguan in Xinyang, Henan Province and Jin 'an in Jiangling, Hubei Province belong to Yu Pei in front of their bellies. On the other hand, under the rule of Yu Pei, nobles were highlighted with special colors, thus becoming a symbol representing their status.

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Both men and women in Shang Dynasty adopted the shape of the upper and lower sections, and put on clothes and dresses. Later generations called clothes "clothes", which was derived from this. The waist and sleeves of its clothing are basically tight and narrow, knee-length and easy to move. It was in the Shang Dynasty that the costume characteristics of the ancient Chinese nation were formed.

Although the basic forms of commercial clothing are similar, in fact, commercial clothing still has a quite strict hierarchy. The more advanced dyeing, embroidery and decorations are enjoyed by slave owners, while the people at the bottom can only wear linen and woven fabrics made of the same linen. According to textual research, the dress of senior dignitaries in Shang Dynasty is usually a short coat, right collar, hip and wrist, narrow cuffs, pleated skirt, wide belt and leg-binding. Wear pointed shoes. Noble women wear ankle-length coats, crossed collars, long sleeves, and broadband covering the waist and knees. A large towel around the front of clothes to protect your knees. Knees are narrow at the top and wide at the bottom. Wear shoes on your feet and a hoop on your head.

In addition to modeling, the strict hierarchy of Shang costumes is also reflected in the use of colors. Noble dresses, the tops are mostly solid colors such as blue, red and yellow, and the skirts are mostly indirect colors, such as ochre, ochre and green. They have been dyed several times, and the collars and sleeves are edged. Everyday home often wears clothes, green clothes and clothes. Ordinary people's clothes are not so colorful.

When it comes to clothing culture, there are not only clothes, but also ornaments, and clothes and ornaments usually appear together. From the images of jade figures unearthed in the Yin Dynasty, it can be seen that men and women in the Yin Dynasty still had the habit of wearing jade articles, and the rulers even formulated a whole set of Yu Pei system to distinguish classes and grades. In the modeling of businessman Yu Pei, jade is generally carved into various small animal images, and the most common one is a jade fish.

In the Yin and Shang Dynasties, such grade differences in clothing were closely related to the prosperity and technological progress relative to the primitive economy at that time. It was precisely because of the economic development at that time that it could provide a large amount of clothing for the society, and the ruling class could make good use of it and abandon it to poverty; Only in this way can clothing materials be classified in terms of texture, color and pattern, which laid a certain foundation for the classification system of later generations and formally established the chapter and clothing system of later generations. The "Zhang Fu System" began in the slave society of China and developed in the feudal society. Zhang Fu system made relevant regulations on the clothes, background colors and patterns worn by emperors and officials, as a symbol of distinguishing status grades.

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With the establishment of the Western Zhou Dynasty, the social productive forces have greatly developed and improved, the material is obviously rich, and the social order has been organized and established. Due to the existence of hierarchy and the need of etiquette, the form of clothing has been further standardized, and it has been included in the category of "ruling the country by courtesy", which is different in terms of honor and inferiority.

Petticoat: At that time, uniforms or petticoats were the mainstream and the style remained unchanged. It's just that the sleeves are getting bigger every day, forming big sleeves and eliminating styles. The clothes are getting wider and wider.

Hairstyle: At that time, most men in the Western Zhou Dynasty braided their hair to the top of their heads, but they didn't have the habit of long hair when doing business, and there were some exceptions abroad. However, hair binding has become a unified national standard, laying the foundation for Chinese hairstyles for thousands of years.

Crown hat towel: the crown at that time was fully developed, and the basic crowns of later generations could be seen at that time, including magpie tail crown, Shang crown, long crown, tube crown and crown. The hat was also formed at that time.

At this time, the special boundary grade marks of clothing began to be clear, and the variety categories also increased accordingly, such as the special sacrificial dress in the palace when offering sacrifices to the gods and gods of heaven and earth, the court dress in the court ceremony, the military service dress, the wedding dress, the mourning dress and so on. Although the clothes are still yellow, a big belt (made of silk or silk with a width of four inches) and jade (made of jade with a ribbon around the waist) are added to the official clothes. In addition, clothing colors are also graded. In the Western Zhou Dynasty, in addition to the unique style of taking off the long ribbon of the coat, it also absorbed the clothes with hooks at the waist of Xianbei people (now Xibo people) in the north (thin hooks or buckles made of gold, silver, copper or iron at the connection of the ribbon).

Crown service system: The greatest contribution of the Western Zhou Dynasty and its influence on later generations is the perfection of the formal dress system (also called crown service system). The Western Zhou Dynasty's formal dress system was also up and down, except that there was a crown on the head (all kinds of crowns at that time had been developed and perfected, and continued to later generations), clothes should be graded, there should be chapters, and there were knee, jade and other related dress accessories, so the perfect formal dress system continued until the Ming Dynasty. At that time, the main grade of the dress was crown dress, so it was called crown dress, depending on the style of the relevant crown dress. For example, wearing a crown is a crown, and wearing a crown is a crown. They are still under the coat, but the hat top and badge are different, and the grade of accessories is different. Coronation dress, as a kind of high-class dress, lasted until the Ming Dynasty. Only then can emperors, officials and doctors wear coronation clothes. Later, with the strengthening of centralization, only the emperor and the prince Wang could wear it. At that time, the queen had already begun to wear Zhai clothes as women's clothes. At that time, the queen had six kinds of Zhai clothes. At this time, deep clothes and Hu clothes began to become popular. Deep clothes are called deep clothes because they connect clothes that were not connected up and down in the past. Its hem is not sewn, but the skirt is extended and covered backwards, which is called "continuous sewing and hemming". Deep clothes were quite popular during the Warring States period, and there were people wearing deep clothes in the Zhou royal family and the relics of Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin and Qi. Chu tombs reveal the deep clothes of folk figures, and the detailed structure is clearer. Short sleeves are a major feature of Chu clothing. There used to be a short-sleeved "dress" in the tomb of Mashan 1 in Jiangling. According to Shuowen, it's a jacket. According to Zeng Houyi's clothes, it should be short-sleeved clothes.

Khufu mainly refers to clothes and trousers, especially trousers, which are the costumes of the northern grassland nationalities in China. For riding convenience, they wear narrower coats, trousers and boots. According to Records of the Historian Zhao Shijia, this system was first used by King Wuling of Zhao to equip the Zhao army. The bronze warrior statue in Changzhi Valley of Shanxi Province is wearing a rectangular collar, a straight-breasted coat, trousers, a belt and a sword. This is the image of a Zhao warrior who uses Khufu.

"The system of Khufu, the crown is Huiwen, the belt is the northern generation, the shoes are boots, and there are pleats under the pants ... Since King Wuling of Zhao in the Warring States Period, Khufu rode and shot, and the pleats of pants were introduced to China, which was thought by previous dynasties, or with its crown, or with its shoes, or with its belt, or all three, which was occasionally used by the people in the Jin Dynasty. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Hu Fu was the official costume of the Northern Dynasty, while Han Fu was the military uniform of the Southern Dynasty. Compared with the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the emperor was a hunting costume, or a public costume, and folk costumes were the most popular. Tracing back to its spread and prosperity, from military to civilian, it has a long history and complicated changes. Wang Guowei's "Hu Fu Kao" is the most detailed, so there is no need to repeat it. It was only in the Tang Dynasty that why it became so popular has not been verified so far, and Wang has not mentioned it. In my humble opinion, there are three reasons: (1> During the Tang Dynasty, many Hu people lived in the mainland. (2) The aristocratic class abandoned the past and sat for the conference semifinals; (3) courtiers, abandon the car and ride horses. (4) Khufu's riding and shooting is mainly to integrate the elements and advantages of Khufu into Hanfu, not to abandon Hanfu, but to wear Khufu.

In Khufu, there are so-called semi-armed people. In ancient times, it was called half arm, but today it is called mandarin jacket. There is no official script in Shuowen, and there is no official script in Pian Yu, for fear that it is an official script. Li Shu and Li Shu both get their sounds from Guangxi, but they can't be hung up or hung up. Sleeveless or semi-armless clothes are Hu clothes. "Sin only records crown clothes" says: "Every dynasty wore pleats, and the clothes were also military, with short sleeves or sleeveless, with horizontal pleats and vertical pleats under them. If the sleeves are long, they are dragged or interrupted at the waist, and they intersect with a line, which is called Cheng Ziyi and Wireless Road, which is called Taoist robe. "

Just like this trouser pleat, it became the general name of Khufu. All sleeveless, short-sleeved and long-sleeved clothes, as well as robes that span the waist with cable channels or wireless channels, can be called trousers pleats, so it is no problem that the half arm in question is Hu clothes. As for its shape, Song Zengsan's Notes on Explaining Words is the most detailed:

"In recent years, there has been a clothing system, such as spinning coats, which are not longer than the waist and the sleeves cover the elbows. It is made of the thickest silk and wrapped in a clip, or made of cotton and purple soap. It is called today's sleeve. It started in the Imperial Horse Courtyard. Those who are short in front and back may wish to take off their saddles and wear short sleeves to facilitate the management of their ears. " Not longer than the waist, the sleeves only cover the elbows, and the edges are covered with purple soap cloth, with coats and cotton-padded clothes. Obviously, it is a half-arm system. Because its front and back lapels are very short, you might as well take them off when sitting on the saddle, so it can also be called a jacket, which is a pair of lapels. The system of Ming and Qing dynasties still exists. The Japanese Records, Volume 28, Duijian Clothing, said: "Taizu recorded that in March of the 26th year of Hongwu, officials and civilians were forbidden to wear Duijian clothing, and only rode horses to let them ride." Yeah, yeah. "(Excerpted from Huang Xianfan's Preliminary Study on the Interpretation of Ancient Books) During the Qin and Han Dynasties, due to the unification of the country, clothing styles tended to be consistent. The Qin Dynasty was the first feudal unified country with vast territory and numerous nationalities in the history of China.

After Ying Zheng became the first emperor, the king of Qin immediately began to implement a series of measures to strengthen centralization, such as unified measurement, criminal laws and regulations, including the system of dressing. However, due to Qin Shihuang's short ruling time, the clothing system is just beginning and incomplete, and only the colors of clothing are unified. Qin Shihuang was deeply influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements. He believes that Qin should be fire and water, because the Zhou Dynasty is "fire is better than gold, and color is still red", so Qin Shengzhou is a water virtue, and color advocates black. In this way, in the Qin Dynasty, black was a noble color, and clothing was also a fashionable color.

We can see the armor and battle clothes of the Qin Dynasty from the unearthed cultural relics. The armor worn by pottery figurines unearthed in Lintong, Shaanxi Province should be the most common armor style among Qin terracotta warriors and horses, and it is the costume of ordinary soldiers. This kind of armor has the following characteristics: the armor on the chest is pressed down by the upper piece, and the armor on the abdomen is pressed down by the lower piece, which is convenient for activities. Starting from the middle line of the chest and abdomen, all the nail plates are stacked from the middle to both sides, and the combination of the shoulder nail plates is the same as that of the abdomen. The nail plates around the shoulders, abdomen and neck are connected by nail belts. All nail plates have nails, and the number of nails varies from two to three to four, with no more than six at most. The length of armor is equal before and after, and the hem is generally round.

The excavation of a large number of terracotta warriors and horses in the pit of Qin Shihuang Mausoleum provided sufficient examples for the samurai costumes in Qin and Han Dynasties. The half-length clothes they wear are relatively light, but they are still deep clothes, with pants below and a belt with hooks around their waist. This kind of clothing was still widely popular in the Western Han Dynasty, and pants gradually spread to the whole society. The establishment of the crown system was realized in the Han Dynasty. In ancient times, the crown of Huaxia nationality was mainly subordinate to the ritual system, and men had to perform the crown ceremony when they were adults. Crown rule in Han dynasty is mainly subordinate to the service system, which is a symbol of identity, official position and even rank. People with low status can only wear hats, not crowns. A crown is a hair cover added to a bun and does not cover the whole head. E is like a hat. The crown and cloak have nothing to do with each other. Wang Mang arrived. It is said that because he was bald, he wore a cloak first and then was crowned. Later, this way of wearing became popular, so the crown that appeared on the stone relief in the Eastern Han Dynasty was also placed under it. Crown and pavilion can't be matched casually. The immortal crown worn by civil servants should match the roof-shaped pavilion, and the martial arts crown worn by military officers should match the flat pavilion on the top. Jin Xianguan is towering in front, inclined in the back and inclined in appearance. There are "beams" in front of the crown, and the wearer's identity can be distinguished according to the number of beams. The Tian Tong crown worn by the emperor and the far crown worn by the princes are also dazzling on the basis of the Golden Fairy Crown. Wu Ge's big crown, also known as "Hui ("), was originally made of (thin linen) drooping ears. Later, it was placed under it and painted on it to make it look like a painted sand cage, so it was also called "cage crown". The sarong crown was unearthed from Xin Mang's tomb at No.62 Mozuizi, Wuwei, Gansu. Besides, samurai also wear crowns. Law enforcement officers wear sabers.

Although the beams on the crown of Jin Xian have played a certain role in distinguishing the advantages and disadvantages, the number of beams does not exceed three, and the classification is relatively rough. Therefore, in the Han Dynasty, as a symbol of official rank, the color, weave, density and length of ribbons of officials at different levels were different. At this time, although the ribbon was the official seal, it was closely related to the Western Zhou Yupei Group. Women in the Han dynasty generally combed their hair back into a drooping bun, called a vertebral bun. Women often wear deep clothes. Women's deep clothes are famous for their clothes. Their twists and turns are not only wrapped around several layers in the lower body, but also decorated with triangles and long streamers on their oblique width, which is called harmony in literature. Its shape can be seen in the Han Dynasty portrait bricks unearthed in Sichuan.

Clothing in the Han Dynasty has seven characteristics:

1. When wearing a coat, because the collar is large and curved, it is necessary to reveal the collar type of the middle coat when dressing;

2. Dressing must use white cloth;

3. The sleeve is one foot and two inches wide;

This shirt is sleeveless;

5. When wearing leather, the fur is facing outwards;

6. The belt is exquisite, and the hooks used are made of gold into various animal shapes, such as mantis or pipa. The image is very vivid and interesting. The general length of the hook has reached a very high level in modeling, color and technology, and it is much more exquisite in design and production than in the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Warring States Period. So it is very popular with men and wears a lot;

7. Men keep the custom of wearing knives, but the knives they wear are tangible and bladeless, so they lose their practical value, mainly to show their appearance.

In the Han Dynasty, sacrificial clothing was extended to "Great Unity", following the ancient ceremony of wearing a crown dress and wearing a jade pendant. Emperors, officials and princes all use large ones, but they only differ in the texture of the jade beads or silk threads to which they belong. Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi and Lady Komsomolsk's sacrificial clothes (temple clothes), silkworm clothes, court clothes and wedding clothes are all made of deep clothes.

In the Han dynasty, working women always wore short skirts and long skirts, and their knees were decorated with long pendants. Workers usually wear a raft, calf nose pants and a cloth skirt around their clothes. This kind of clothing is the same for slaves, serfs, businessmen and scholars. The overall clothing style in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties can be summarized as "colorful, blending North and South". During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, due to the constant wars, frequent dynasty changes, the economy was destroyed, all aspects of social life were seriously affected, people's concept of etiquette and law became weak, and clothing also changed significantly, which was a period of great changes in ancient Chinese clothing. Wei and Jin costumes basically inherited the old system of Qin and Han dynasties.

Although the Wei and Jin Dynasties maintained the basic form of the Han Dynasty, they had unique and outstanding characteristics in style, which was closely related to the creative ideas of artworks and handicrafts at that time, and the identity of their styles was obvious.

The costumes in the Southern and Northern Dynasties showed a trend of mutual absorption and gradual integration among all ethnic groups. On the one hand, influenced by the traditional culture of the Han nationality, some rulers of ethnic minority regimes enthusiastically advocate wearing Hanfu, resulting in the situation that "all ministers are Hanfu". On the other hand, due to wars, natural disasters and plagues, the people in the north were forced to leave their homes and all ethnic groups lived together. Due to the above reasons, there was a trend of mutual influence among ethnic groups and gradual integration of living customs.

Persian patterns were introduced into China through the Silk Road in the 6th century A.D., which had a great influence on textiles, clothing and other decorations at that time. This is reflected in Dunhuang murals.

The political environment of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties made scholars have the ambition to be loyal to the monarch and serve the country, but it was useless. Because their political ambitions and life ideals can't be realized, scholars no longer limit themselves to Confucian rules too much, but begin to emphasize the liberation of self-personality. So at that time, the society appeared the wind of praising clothes and belts, forming a unique Wei and Jin demeanor. Men are shirtless and shirtless, pursuing relaxed, natural and casual feelings; For women, long skirts mop the floor, big sleeves are graceful, and ribbons are layered, trying to show elegance and nobility.

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was stipulated that the palace, China and Korea should take red and often purple. White serves ordinary people. At this time, the dress style is still dominated by skirts and dresses, and autumn is informal dress. Women's decorations are exquisite, such as gold rings, silver fingers and jumping around their wrists. There is still a big difference between the texture inside and outside the palace.

The most common form of armor in Wei and Jin Dynasties was two crotch armor, knee-length. Above the waist, it is the breastplate. Some are made of small armor pieces, and some are made of whole large armor pieces. The armor is divided into two pieces, and the shoulders and sides are tied with straps. There are circular shields on the chest and back. Because most of them are made of copper, iron and other metals, and polished into aurora, quite like a mirror. Wearing "bright armor" on the battlefield will give off dazzling "light" because of the sun's irradiation, so it is called this. There are many styles of this kind of armor, and the complexity is also different. Some only add two round guards at the front and back of the crotch, some are equipped with shoulder pads and knee pads, and the complicated one is heavy shoulder pads. Most of the bulletproof vests grow to the hips, and the waist is tied with a belt.

During the Southern Dynasties, skirts were the main style of dress, and women, especially women wearing skirts, were orthodox. It is considered impolite to show your pants without wearing a skirt. At that time, the woman wore a white silk scarf (a blue ribbon scarf, which was said to have been worn by Zhuge Liang during the Three Kingdoms period) with long and narrow sleeves and a wisp of carved flowers. Dancers wear robes, long belts and ten thousand towels on their heads.

In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, there were also "robes" and "shirts", and shirts were a necessary costume in the Jin Dynasty. "Qiu" is extremely precious at this time, especially mink. "It's teenagers' favorite clothes. Shallow teenagers prefer colorful clothes. Thin, thin and crane are all popular clothes at this time.

The Southern Dynasties basically inherited the Wei and Jin Dynasties. Due to the frequent changes in wars and countries, clothing has also changed. Clothes in the south of the Yangtze River are shorter than those in the north, but at that time it was popular to wear small hats and coats. Sometimes, a sleeve is split in two and a skirt is cut into two skirts. Some styles have big collars and belts, some have narrow sleeves, some have long skirts that mop the floor, and some have long skirts that cover their feet. In the Southern Dynasties, the imperial costume was still mysterious. There are regulations on the materials used in clothing. People below the third grade officer are not allowed to wear variegated clothes, and those below the sixth grade officer can only wear colorful clothes, and gauze is not allowed. The artistic works of the Southern Dynasties are in the same strain as the clothing styles. Many unearthed pottery figurines show us a woman with a thin waist and a round face, and her facial features are very beautiful, especially the pottery figurines in the south of the Yangtze River, which are in harmony with mopping the floor and taking off the coat straps.

During the Northern Dynasties, officials wore red light clothes on formal occasions, so that uniforms and uniforms were the mainstay. Wear a red robe with a gold belt and a small sleeve gown with a gold belt. Ordinary women take coats as official uniforms, just like the Southern Dynasties. In the Northern Dynasties, silk brocade was the most luxurious clothing material.

The rolling grass pattern in the Southern and Northern Dynasties was developed on the basis of the moire pattern in the Han Dynasty. Dynamic images such as well drilling in Dunhuang (suitable for patterns alone), triangle flower (suitable for patterns), strip flower (continuous in two directions), flying and moire are skillfully combined, which are concise, beautiful and implicit. Wool carpets, linen and silk were all popular products at that time. On the basis of the mutual influence and systematic formation of Hu and Han costumes in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the costume system in the Tang Dynasty appeared the situation of "legal costume" and "regular costume" in parallel. As a big dress, the French dress is still the traditional crown, crown, skirt and dress, while the regular dress is improved on the basis of Xianbei dress. In the Tang Dynasty, from emperors to servants, men had to wear uniforms in their daily lives, including round necks, lack of robes, hoes, belts and boots. A robe that opens without a robe. Wotou is evolved from Xianbei hat. It's a headscarf. When wrapped, the two corners of the towel are pulled forward into a bun, and the other two corners are tied behind the head, so the excess part naturally hangs down. At first, the material of steamed bread was black buttons or rolls, so the hanging angle of towel was soft, so it was called "soft-footed steamed bread". Later, a corner of the towel was supported by copper wire and iron wire, which became a "hard hoe". Due to the different shapes of hard feet and different angles of lifting, there are also equations of "sentence foot", "spread foot" and "sky". At first, the belt in the Tang Dynasty was tied with a narrow thong, so this belt got its name. Many square plaques were fixed on it. According to different ranks, belts are made of jade, gold, rhinoceros, silver, jade, blue iron and other materials, making belts a symbol of different ranks. In addition, "color tasting clothes" appeared in the Northern Zhou Dynasty and formed a system in the Tang Dynasty, which became a major feature of China's official clothes. In the Tang Dynasty, officials ranged from first class to ninth class, and purple, red, green and blue were equal differences. Women's dresses in Tang Dynasty are mainly composed of skirts, shirts and purses. This often hides the shirt in the skirt, so it looks very long. Bibi, also known as Bibi, like a slender shawl, was once popular in the Central Plains under the influence of Buddhism in West Asia. In the early Tang Dynasty, women's costumes were also popular in Hu fu, such as a virtual hat with rolled eaves and lapels. After the Anshi Rebellion, this trend gradually subsided.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was also very popular for women to wear "Khufu". "Khufu" is the costume of western people. The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Khufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. At this time, "water belt" with gold ornaments was popular, and the belt for tying things was short and small. This kind of belt was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Northern Song Dynasty. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "women's gift clothes".

After Tang Gaozong, purple is the representative color of military officials; Light scarlet is the color of five official uniforms, dark green is the color of six official uniforms, light green is the color of seven official uniforms, dark blue is the color of eight official uniforms, light blue is the color of nine official uniforms, and yellow is the color of outsiders and ordinary people.

Tang suit also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan Heshun absorbed the essence of Tang costume to a great extent in color, and Korean costume also inherited the advantages of Tang costume in form. The lines of the Tang suit are long and soft, which is very beautiful and comfortable. The material used is mainly silk, so its clothes are famous for their softness and softness. The Tang costume itself is varied and varied. It boldly absorbs the characteristics of foreign costumes from appearance to decoration, and draws lessons from foreign costumes in Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia, North China and the Western Regions, enriching the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty, making it colorful and unique, and becoming a wonderful work in China's historical costumes, attracting worldwide attention. The costumes of the Song Dynasty generally followed the Tang system. At this time, the hoe was lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquer yarn, which was called "hoe hat" by Song people and could be taken off at will, which was very different from the soft-footed hoe that had to be temporarily wrapped in the early Tang Dynasty. At this time, the emperor and senior officials all wore exhibition feet, which stretched straight to both sides for several feet. A humble tolerance, servant, etc. Wear more hoes without feet.

Women in the Song Dynasty also wore skirts and tops. At this time, blouses were mostly double-breasted and covered outside skirts. The skirt is very narrow, and many folds are applied. In addition to the Luo skirt, Fuzhou Huangdi Mausoleum also has open crotch pants and closed crotch pants, which shows that women in the Song Dynasty wore pants inside the skirt. Foot-binding began in the Five Dynasties and was popular in the late Northern Song Dynasty.

The official system in Song Dynasty basically followed the previous generation, so the official clothes in the palace were similar to those in the previous generation, which were divided into royal clothes, sacrificial clothes, official clothes, military uniforms, mourning clothes and seasonal clothes. The royal dress is a red red dress with a white silk inside and a big silk belt outside. Covered with crimson silk over the knee, there are brocade, jade, jade bracelets, white stockings and black shoes. In addition to this unified style, the level of official position is also distinguished by the different collocation. Mainly in the presence of Zen clothes (single) and patterns on brocade. You must wear "Golden Fairy Crown" (a kind of painted beam crown hat), "The Story of Losing Sim Crown" (also known as "cage towel", which is a crown hat made of rattan with patterns painted on it) and "Xi Fairy Crown".

Public service is a regular service, also known as "provincial service", which is mainly in the form of curved collar and belt waist, and has a narrow sleeve style. This kind of clothing is graded by color. For example, blue is used for Q9 officials and above; Seven products are green for officials and above; Cinnabar is used for five officials or above; Purple is used for third-class officials and above. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the color changed slightly, and purple was used for more than four products. More than six products are scarlet; Use green for grade nine or above. According to the regulations at that time, people wearing purple (scarlet) clothes should be equipped with fish bags decorated with gold and silver to clearly distinguish between high and low. Seasonal clothes are clothes for officials and ministers according to the season. From the emperor's generals to the guards, the varieties given are robes, coats, shirts, robes, pants and so on. Most of the clothes given are embroidered with birds and animals.

In the Song Dynasty, in addition to men's official uniforms, South Korea's usual uniforms were also very distinctive, also called "private servers". There is not much difference between Song officials and ordinary people in the form of Yanju clothing. Only there are obvious rules and restrictions on the use of colors.

There are two kinds of robes: wide sleeves and narrow sleeves. There are brocade robes with official positions and white cloth robes without official positions.

"Yan" and "coat" are clothes that ordinary people must wear every day.

"Short brown" is a short and thick cloth, which is for the poor.

"Tui shirt" is a man's robe with horizontal lace at the bottom.

"Clothes" followed the ancient system of dressing under clothes. It is the style of coronation dress, court dress or private house dress. There was also a way to wear a coat under a petticoat in the Song Dynasty. Men also wear long coats with black frills on their collars and Huang Shang on them. Stay at home without a belt, and wear a belt when entertaining guests.

"Straight tube" is a wide long dress. It is called "straight hem" because there is no slit at the hem and a middle seam at the back.

"Crane", wide and long, is a kind of fur made of crane hair and other birds' hair, which is of great value.

In addition, men's clothing in the Song Dynasty also includes cloth shirts and Luo shirts. It is called an undershirt for internal use, and it has the form of cross collar and jaw collar. The materials used are very elegant, and satin, yarn and yarn are mostly used. Colors are white, blue, soap (black), apricot yellow, dark brown and so on. This coat is made of cloth, silk, silk, brocade, silk and leather. Coat colors are blue, red, bordeaux, dark green, goose yellow and so on. The quality of aristocratic trousers is also very particular, mostly based on yarn, yarn, silk, silk, crepe and twill, and decorated with plain weave, jacquard and small jacquard. Pants are mainly camel, brown and brown. The Yuan Dynasty was an era of ethnic integration in China's history, and costumes also fully reflected this feature. Genghis Khan, the founding emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, founded the capital in 1206. After the destruction of Xixia and Jin, the ethnic composition was mainly Mongolian. In the Yuan Dynasty, the textile industry and handicraft industry were greatly damaged due to the sharp ethnic contradictions. The court dress system has long been extended to the Song Dynasty. It was not until Yuan Yingzong l32 1 that the ancient system was referred to and the system of "quality positive clothing" was formulated, which was called "monochrome clothing" or "quality positive clothing" by the Han people. This is a clothing system that inherits the Han nationality and has Mongolian characteristics.

"High-quality sun clothes" are widely used. Ministers can wear them at banquets in the palace, and musicians and guards can also wear them. The difference between the upper and lower layers of this kind of clothing is reflected in the difference in texture and thickness. The son of heaven has fifteen grades (graded according to quality). The raw materials and colors used in each grade are completely unified, and the clothes and hats are consistent, and the overall effect is excellent. For example, if the clothes are cut into velvet, their hats must be warm hats; If the clothes are white leather, the hat must be a platinum warm hat. There are fifteen grades of summer clothes in Tian Zi, which are similar to winter clothes. There are nine grades in winter clothes and fourteen grades in summer clothes, which are also distinguished by texture and color.

"Side by side" and "armor to armor" are also uniforms. "Bijian" is a kind of leather coat with inside and outside, which is slightly longer than the coat. In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolians called it "the answer of ignorance". Gaby is a kind of clothing that is easy to ride and shoot. Collarless and sleeveless, short in front and long in back, with snap connection. In the Yuan Dynasty, the official dress of men followed the custom of Han nationality, and it was also the custom of women to wear a short-sleeved shirt outside the official dress (called a half-arm skirt).

Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty was divided into two styles: noble and civilian. Most of the nobles are Mongolians, wearing fur coats and hats as national costumes. Mink and sheepskin are widely used in clothing, with wide robes, narrow cuffs and wide sleeves. Because the clothes are long and mop the floor, your wife must be led by a slave when she goes out to play. This robe has a cloud shoulder, the so-called "gold embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel", which is very gorgeous. As a gown, the fabric texture is very elegant, using big red brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. The most popular colors at that time were red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple and gold. It was quite popular for civilian women to wear half-arm Han skirts in Yuan Dynasty. The appearance of Hanfu often appeared on the dancers in the palace, and the narrow sleeves and hats of the Tang Dynasty were also preserved. In addition, influenced by neighboring North Korea, aristocratic empresses in Beijing also have the custom of imitating Korean women's clothing. In order to revitalize China society, the Ming government adopted the policy of inheriting the Zhou and Han Dynasties and the Tang and Song Dynasties, attached great importance to rectifying and restoring etiquette, and redefined the clothing system according to the Han tradition. With the development of politics, economy, culture and science and technology, the costumes of Ming Dynasty were dignified and elegant, which became a model of China's costume art in the past century.

The daily clothing of the Ming emperors was a dragon robe embroidered with dragon patterns, Zhai patterns and twelve chapters, which was generally made of yellow gauze with a golden crown. The emperor's formal attire still maintains the ancient system of upper garment and lower garment, which is composed of mysterious clothing, upper garment, leucorrhea, yellow knee covering, plain yarn and red belt. Xuanyi weaves dragon patterns on the shoulders, stars and mountains on the back, fire, insects and Zong Yi patterns on the sleeves, and the collars, cuffs, skirts and ruffles are all true colors. Weaving algae, powdered rice, glutinous rice, glutinous rice.

In the early Ming Dynasty, it was required to restore the Tang system (as shown on the left), and its robe style was similar to that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the Jinxian crown was changed to the Liang crown, and the Zhongjing crown was added. In the Ming dynasty, official uniforms also used hats and round neck robes, but at this time the hats were painted with black paint, and the feet of the hats were short and wide, so they were called black hats. Civilians without official positions were not allowed to wear them. In addition to coloring according to the grade regulations, the public service also patches the chest and back. Civil servants decorate birds, and officers decorate animals. In recognition of the meritorious service of officials, embroidered robes, flying fish clothes, bullfighting clothes and other costumes were specially presented. Python is a dragon with four claws, flying fish is a python with fins, and bullfighting is to add curved horns to the python's head. Jade belt is for official use, so it's best to use it. Therefore, "embroidered robe and jade belt" became the most prominent costume of the big bureaucrats at this time. Hanfu had a far-reaching influence in the Ming Dynasty, as far away as North Korea in Northeast Asia, Japan, Ryukyu and other vassal countries. Hanfu is a traditional costume of the Han nationality in China, which began in Xuanyuan Huangdi and ended in the Qing Dynasty Massacre. All 56 ethnic groups are equal, and the Han people should also have their own national costumes, namely Hanfu.