Clothing characteristics of Hui nationality

The Hui population ranks fourth among the 56 ethnic groups in China. In the history of Hui people, the Tang and Song Dynasties were regarded as "immigrants" or "ancestors". /kloc-At the beginning of the 3rd century, a large number of Central Asians in West Asia moved eastward with the Yuan Army. After coming to China, they generally engaged in commerce, craftsmen, officials, scholars, military craftsmen, gunmen and soldiers. These outsiders intermarried with the indigenous peoples in China, thus forming a new ethnic group-Hui people in the late Yuan Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty. In fact, judging from the fact that the Hui people in the Song Dynasty had developed into several large inhabited areas and the conditions for the formation of general nationalities, the Hui people in the southeast, northwest and parts of North China had already formed before the Yuan Dynasty.

Historically, Shang Hu, Dashi, Semu, Ke Fan, Hui and Hui were appellations for ancestors or Hui people who came to China in different periods, and the word "Hui" was used for a long time. Before Yuan Dynasty, the meaning of the name "Hui" was a popular slang word converted from the word "Hui", and the usage of the word "Hui" changed except for the words "Hui" and "Hui" in the early Yuan Dynasty. Han people use the Mongolian translation of Sarta'ul, which means "foreign businessman", to describe businessmen from the East in remote areas of the western regions such as West Asia and Central Asia. At this point, Uighur and Uighur are different concepts. The former refers to Arabs, Persians and Muslims in Central Asia who believe in Islam (including a few non-Muslims, such as-Shu (Jews), green-eyed Hui (Azores who believe in Christianity) and Li Luo Hui (Gypsies), while the latter refers to Uighurs. Since then, the word "Hui" has been used instead of "Sa 'ertawule" in the official documents of the Yuan Dynasty.

/kloc-At the beginning of the 3rd century, due to Genghis Khan's Western Expedition, a large number of Muslims of all ethnic groups from West Asia and Central Asia migrated to the interior or frontier of China. Some of them settled in the mainland of China, some did business, and some were officials. They intermarried with Uighurs and local aborigines, and a new ethnic group basically formed in China. In A.D. 1235, the Hui people were officially registered in the household registration by the then government. Changing from "Ke Fan" to "Hui" means having China nationality and becoming a new member of the Chinese nation. Since then, in the official documents or imperial edicts of the Yuan Dynasty, Uighurs have been clearly distinguished from other ethnic groups. For example, in 1265 (Yuan-Yuan two years), Kublai Khan said in an imperial edict: "It is now planned to ride from the south of the Yellow River to the east of Tongguan among the people, monks, Taoists, scholars, people who are warm, savage and afraid of my son, and Hui people in Qixian County ... It should be said that there are no official servants. (See da Ma Yuan Ji Zheng). The descriptions of nationalities in the "Xiangfu Tujing" in Yuan Dynasty are as follows: Mongolia, Uighur, Hui, Hexi, Qidan, Nuzhen and Han. Another example is the description of overseas Chinese households in Jiang Zhi, Shunzhi Town, Yuan Dynasty: "There are 29 Mongolian households, 59 Hui households, and 367 Han households/kloc-0 households. "

By the end of the Qing Dynasty, some people in the middle of Uighur explicitly called their group Uighur. As a nickname, a clear description of the Hui people first appeared in the Qianlong period-in the book "Rebuilding the New Records of Suzhou" of Qianlong, Volume 30, "The Yi people in Hami moved to Suzhou" wrote: "In the Ming Dynasty, the Yi people in Hami migrated to three households in Weidong Guan Township, Suzhou. Yue Wei's son family, whose people are slightly similar to China customs; Yuehalabu people, who are the same as Yi people; When the white flour returns, the hui people also. Today, men plow the fields and women weave, in order to protect themselves. Scholars do business, and there are salty people. " In the fifty years of Qianlong (1785), Fu Kang 'an used the word "Hui people" more than once in his memorial about suppressing the uprising of Hui people in northwest China. In the Biography of Yang Changrui's loyalty and righteousness in Gansu published in the 16th year of Guangxu (1890), the words "Hui people" and "returning home" also appeared many times. Fan Qingxin at the end of Guangxu even took the name "Hui people" as a clear classification category in "Gansu Hui bandits eliminate the remnants".

During the Republic of China, Dr. Sun Yat-sen publicly and solemnly put forward the slogan of "Harmony between Han, Manchu, Mongolia, Hui and Tibet" in his revolutionary program.

Of course, it was only after the founding of 1949 New China that the Hui and other ethnic minorities finally gained equal status, and the state began to formally recognize all ethnic minorities in China. Among the 55 ethnic minorities, 9 ethnic groups are recognized: Korean, Hui, Manchu, Mongolian, Miao, Uygur, Yao, Yi and Tibetan, which were naturally established without investigation. Hui people have their own autonomous regions and autonomous counties. Their right to be masters of their own affairs has been truly reflected in the new China under the leadership of the * * * Production Party. Since then, according to the national characteristics, historical development and present situation, as well as the wishes of the nation, other brotherly peoples have been identified in three stages, so that all ethnic groups have ended the exploitation and rule of feudal emperors and warlords and gained respect and equal status.

The main symbol of Hui costumes is the head. Men like to wear round hats made of white ones. There are two kinds of round hats, one is flat-topped and the other is hexagonal. Exquisite people will also tattoo exquisite patterns on round hats. From the color point of view, whether there is a small white hat or a small black hat, most people like to wear a white hat. Some people don't wear hats, but wrap their heads with white towels or white cloth, which is commonly known as back and forth Baotou. There are also those who wear horn hats because of different sects and regions, such as pentagonal hats, hexagonal hats and octagonal hats. In winter, some elderly Muslims, such as imams, don't like to wear cotton hats, but still wear a white hat on their heads and a pair of embroidered green earmuffs (made of cotton or leather) on their ears. Jackets generally like to wear double-breasted fir, and some also like to wear white pants and socks, which is neat, lively and solemn.

Hui women are also very particular about clothes. Generally speaking, they wear white round hats and headscarves. The hijab is also very delicate, and the elderly women wear white, which looks white and generous; Middle-aged women wear black, which looks solemn and elegant; Women wear black, which looks solemn and elegant; Unmarried women look fresh and beautiful in green. Many married women usually wear white or black round hats with edges. There are two kinds of round hats, one is made of white bleached cloth, and the other is made of white thread or black silk thread, which is often woven into beautiful geometric patterns. In terms of clothing, Hui elderly people like to wear white shirts and black vests (villagers call them "vests"). Old Hui women wear black or brown headscarves in winter and white scarves in summer, and they have the habit of wearing trousers and fading. Young women wear red, green or blue headscarves in winter and thin red, green and yellow scarves in summer. Hui women in mountainous areas love to wear rusty shoes and have the habit of piercing their ears and wearing earrings. In the Arab region, there used to be many sandstorms and water shortage, so it was difficult for people to take a bath in time. In order to prevent sandstorms and maintain hygiene, women sewed headscarves to cover their faces and protect their hair. Over time, the custom of wearing hijab for Hui women has gradually formed. There are girls, daughters-in-law and old people. Generally, girls wear green, inlaid with gold and embroidered with elegant flowers and plants; Married women wear black, only over the shoulders; Old women wear white clothes and put them on vests. Hui women generally wear clothes with large rows of buttons. Girls and daughters-in-law like to line, color, roll and embroider clothes, wear gold and silver bracelets, earrings and rings, and some even dye their heads and nails. Looks fresh, beautiful and handsome.

Hui men and women like to wear green vests. Especially the Hui men, wearing a green vest on a white shirt, is strong in contrast, fresh and pleasing to the eye, and looks elegant and solemn. In severe winter, it is comfortable and convenient to wear a cotton vest or a leather vest and then a blouse, which is both warm and not bloated. Hui people in alpine regions also like to wear two furs, fetal furs and old sheepskin coats.

In recent years, the Hui people in cities, especially the young people, like the Han people, like fashion, emphasizing novelty and bright colors.

Further reading

Development situation

Nowadays, with the development of social environment, the clothing of Hui people in urban and rural areas has changed greatly compared with the 1950s and 1960s before the founding of New China and after the founding of New China. Especially young and middle-aged men and women living in cities, wear rich and varied clothes. Hui people's clothing has developed from a single white sweatshirt, green vest, casual clothes and tunic suit to fashionable suits and jackets. Some Hui people in the city are dressed up, and it is difficult to tell which nationality they are from their clothes.

The traditional culture of Hui costumes, like most other ethnic groups, is also facing the problem of how to preserve it. I hope that the majority of Hui compatriots will pay attention to our traditional culture and national costume customs, so that our splendid culture can be passed down and developed forever. This is the unshirkable responsibility of our contemporary Hui youth!

The state attaches great importance to the protection of intangible cultural heritage. On May 20th, 2006, this folk custom was approved by the State Council to be included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.

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Ningxia clothing

Hui costumes are a vivid portrayal of Hui religious beliefs, living environment and cultural activities, and also an important carrier of Hui cultural heritage.

However, according to the survey, the existing Hui costumes in Yinchuan are outdated in style and single in color. There is a lack of specialized talents and insufficient research and development of Hui costumes; The collection and dissemination of information is not fast, and there is a lack of necessary communication, which lacks a certain cultural atmosphere for the development of Hui characteristic industries. According to the preliminary statistics of Yinchuan Chamber of Commerce, there are more than 12000 enterprises and individuals engaged in clothing business, production and processing in Yinchuan. Most of them are engaged in commercial circulation, and there are only more than 30 enterprises specializing in garment production and processing. Only four national garment manufacturers are on the verge of bankruptcy.

In 2005, Ningxia held the first national Hui costume exhibition competition, and some Hui costumes with exquisite design and synchronous development were appreciated by the majority of Hui people in Ningxia. Ma Shumin, an international first-class stage art designer of China Conservatory of Music and a judge of the competition, believes that Hui costumes have been gradually recognized by people after years of development, but they have not yet formed a complete costume style. She believes that the Hui people's clothing culture is very profound, and the reason why it has not formed its own style has a lot to do with the Hui people's diaspora. In addition, they are greatly influenced by China culture, and their national characteristics are not obvious. She hopes that designers can launch a number of costumes with Hui customs, and manufacturers can also promote Hui costumes with low profits. 1The teacher born in 969 told the reporter that to develop Hui costumes, we must first have our own designers, make bold innovations in the hue and design of Hui costumes, combine national culture with the market, combine Hui traditional culture with modern lifestyle, and combine the development of high-grade costumes with the development of middle and low-grade costumes.

Hainan clothing

Hainan's Hui costumes have distinctive national characteristics. In the areas inhabited by Hui people, the Hui people still maintain the traditional costumes of Central Asians. The most striking feature is: Muslim costumes with Hui characteristics-men wear white hats and women wear headscarves of various colors.

In addition to language, Sanya Hui costumes are different from those in the mainland. Hui men, like their Hui compatriots everywhere, are no different from Han costumes. However, the traditional costume of Hui women, Wangmaifu ("Wang Mai" is a Hainan dialect, which means Hui women), has the characteristics of both Southeast Asia and li miao, a local resident in Hainan, indicating that the Hui people in Sanya are adaptable and creative.

Inheritance and protection

20 19, 1 1, the list of national intangible cultural heritage representative projects was published, and Wuzhong Cultural Center was awarded the qualification of "Hui costume" project protection unit.