38-Novel creation of the costume of the past dynasties data reference (VIII) Qing Dynasty clothing (6)

In the early part of the Qing Dynasty, Han women's clothing was the same as that of the end of the Ming Dynasty, with the traditional jacket-skirt suit as the main one.

After the middle period, women wore skirts and pants. The maidservants and rural laborers only wore pants instead of skirts. In towns and cities, simple long skirts were the mainstay. There were many types of skirts for women in rich families, such as the "moonflower skirt" embroidered with floral patterns in the pleats of the skirt, and the "phoenix-tail skirt" which was made of gold and silver threads to connect the pieces of the skirt and resemble a phoenix's tail. （

In the Qianlong period, women liked to wear light yellow shirts with pink trim, with embroidered skirts underneath.

Xianfeng, Tongzhi period in the phoenix-tailed skirt on the basis of the emergence of the " fish scale pleated skirt ", that is, in the skirt at the hem with a line cross-linked, so that it can be spread can be closed, shaped like fish scales.

The late Guangxu skirt began to add belts, pointed at the corner of the gold, silver, copper bells, action tinkling.

Han women's skirts to red for the expensive, in the festive season, women wear red skirts, this red on behalf of the concept of good luck affects to this day.

Inlaid sash embroidery color is a major feature of women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, generally in the collar, sleeves, lapel, hem, slit, pants and other places inlaid embroidery. Early three set of five sash, later developed into eighteen set of sash. Han women usually wear jacket and skirt, cloak and so on. Clothing from inside to outside are: belly pocket, close small jacket, large jacket, kangshi, cloud shoulder, cloak.

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In the book "A Brief History of Chinese Clothing" (by Wang Ming), which I copied for reference, there is no mention of the "horse-faced skirt" for some reason (perhaps there was no horse-faced skirt when the book was written). Maybe when the book was written there was no such thing as a horse-faced skirt!) But I checked a lot of online information, there is the content of the horse skirt introduced, I need to introduce a special here.

Horse-faced skirt is the most typical style of Han Chinese women's dress in the Ming and Qing dynasties.

On the " horse face skirt " the origin of this name, there is no exact historical records, but " horse face " is actually a building name, refers to the city wall system used for the defense of the structure, because the skirt door is similar so this pleated skirt is commonly known as "horse face skirt".

Horse-face skirt, also known as " Horse-face pleated skirt ", one of the main skirt style of the ancient Chinese Han women, before and after the inside and outside **** there are four skirt door, two by two overlap, the outer skirt door is decorated, the inner skirt door is less decorated or undecorated, the horse-face skirt tucked on the side, the skirt waist is more than white cloth, take the meaning of the white head to the end of the day to the rope or the button fixed knot.

In the previous article written in the Ming women's clothing (" 31-novels written in the costume data reference (VII) Ming dynasty clothing (5) "), inside the" moon skirt, pleated skirt " is the horse skirt.

(1) Ming Dynasty horse skirt

Horse skirt began in the Ming Dynasty (its predecessor is likely to be the Song Dynasty skirt, unearthed in kind for the skirt unearthed in the tomb of Huang Sheng in Fujian Province), the Qing Dynasty Han Chinese women are popular in the horse skirt, and continued to the Republic of China. The structure of the horse skirt can be roughly divided into three parts, the skirt door smooth without pleats, pleated on both sides, like this:

Horse skirt and " skirt ", which is a strip-shaped pattern, with a special symbolism, or to show the dignity of the identity, or that the peace and good luck, the most common patterns are bats, cloud pattern, lanterns, the Eight Immortals across the sea, unicorn twining branches, dragons and phoenixes. The most common patterns are bats, cloud patterns, lanterns, eight immortals across the sea, unicorn twining branches, dragon and phoenix and cloud python decorations, and so on.

The Ming Dynasty horse skirt is more simple, horse face folds large and sparse, for the live pleats, turn up very nice, like the moon, so it is also called "moon skirt". Ming Dynasty horse skirt without any decoration of plain horse skirt, decorated bottom of the skirt, decorated bottom of the skirt plus knee skirt, that is, the kind of skirt with two skirts.

(2) Qing Dynasty Horse Face Skirt

In the Qing Dynasty, Han Chinese women liked to wear horse face skirts. Unlike the previous dynasty, Qing horse face skirts were complicated in structure, and the creases were fine and dense, up to a hundred folds, and all of them were dead folds, and the horse face skirts in the Qing Dynasty attached importance to the decoration of the horse face, with embroidery and other ways of decorating the horse face, some of the horse face skirts had complicated embroidery, and they derived from the side tucks type, 襕 stem type, phoenix tail type, and other forms. Category

Side tucks (pleated skirt):

The style formed by pleating the skirt on both sides of the horse skirt is called side tucks, which is the same feature of the horse skirt of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Qing Dynasty horse skirt pleats more fine and dense, symmetrical, neat and orderly, the degree of pleats "less than dozens, more than a hundred or up to one hundred and sixty", commonly known as pleated skirt.

襕 dry style (襕干裙)：

There is a unique way to decorate the horse skirt in the Qing Dynasty, that is, on both sides of the flat skirt with dark satin cut into thin strips of separation rolled on it, dozens of fine satin will be divided into several parts of the skirt in an orderly manner, the appearance of the appearance looks like a "襕干"，and therefore called the "襕 dry". Therefore, it is called "phoenix-tailed".

Phoenix-tailed (phoenix-tailed skirt):

Phoenix-tailed skirt is one of the more special Ma Mian skirt, according to Li Dou "Yangzhou Boat Records" records, the end of the Ming and early Qing dynasty women's skirts, once "to satin cut for the strip, each embroidered with flowers on both sides, inlaid with gold threads, broken into skirts, called the phoenix-tailed". Fully demonstrates the particularity of the phoenix-tail skirt: dozens of colorful strips of cloth cut into sharp corners at the end, side by side at the waist and fixed into the skirt. The phoenix-tail skirt should be the biggest change in the style of the horse skirt, both sides of the skirt and the front and back of the horse is no longer a continuous fabric, but by the slender strip of cloth from the form of generation, due to the gap between the cloth is large, has been insufficient to cover the body, so do not wear alone, usually tied around the horse skirt as a decorative outside.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty, there were two other forms: the phoenix-tail side tucks and the phoenix-tail stem. (This can not find a picture, make up your own mind, huh ~)

To a wave of horse skirt beauty map it:

Late Qing Dynasty Han Chinese noblewomen also imitated Manchu cheongsam or decorative techniques, so that the evolution of Manchu-Chinese women's clothing in the evolution of the fusion of the trend gradually formed.

(Excerpts from the book "A Brief History of Chinese Clothing" by Wang Ming)