Behind the dispute between Hanfu and Hanfu is the love-hate relationship in East Asia for more than 400 years.

In the past two days, the topic of Hanfu dispute has detonated the network. The origin and facts of the incident are not complicated, but through the appearance of this cultural dispute, the essence reflected is a historical tragedy that has plagued countries in East Asia or Chinese character cultural circles for more than 400 years-the rupture of cultural identity.

Looking back at history, the source of this historical tragedy must be the fall of the Ming Dynasty. Compared with other Central Plains dynasties overthrown by peasant uprisings, it is not only that the successors of the Ming Dynasty are barbarians from outside the customs, but also that this tribe not only conquered China by force, but also changed the costumes, rituals and music that have been passed down for thousands of years by force. Shave off your hair and change into clothes, which all conquerors have never done before. This behavior makes pre-modern China freeze forever with an aesthetic contemptible appearance. So that braids have become the most rude labels for westerners on China's traditional costumes and hairstyles.

The collapse of East Asia lasted for 400 years.

The Japanese once wrote in a China poem by Zhu Yuanzhang:

There are many countries in the Central Plains, and the people are the same as the ancients.

Clothing is made in Tang dynasty, and etiquette and music are Han, monarch and minister.

The silver urn is used for sake, and the golden knife is used for silver carp.

Every February and March, Tao Lichun.

Although this poem makes Zhu Yuanzhang angry enough, it also illustrates the fact that East Asia once had a unified sense of cultural identity, the core of which was the political and cultural combination of the unified regime of the Central Plains and China's rites and music, and one of its most distinctive signs was a right-handed Hanfu.

With regard to Manchuria's entry into the Central Plains, the Japanese put forward a harsh-sounding argument based on the Confucian theory of the debate between China and foreign countries-the transformation of China people and foreigners, and thought that this was the end of civilization from barbarism. Naturally, Japan, Korea and Vietnam, countries with Confucian values, are emotionally disgusted with the Qing Dynasty and do not really agree with the legal system and orthodoxy of the Qing Dynasty. So that in the late Qing Dynasty, the Japanese used this theory to encourage the revolutionary party to be full and restore China, but that was another story.

The Ruan Dynasty in Vietnam also called itself the Mid-Summer, and regarded its conquest of Indo-Chinese aborigines as a move to promote kingliness and turn summer into a thing of convenience. Accuse and intimidate those southern barbarians who don't want to join the emperor of the Central Plains.

Although Japan, North Korea and Vietnam generally have a good impression on the etiquette system of Hanfu, if we want to adhere to the etiquette and music of Daming's clothes, we must first promote North Korea. After the change of dynasties in the Ming and Qing Dynasties was a foregone conclusion, North Korea renamed the note "Chao Tian Lu", which recorded the activities of visiting Beijing, as "Yan", and there was no more China, only visiting Yan. Look straight at the Central Plains from the perspective of admiration and respect. Not only that, it also used the year number of the Ming Dynasty for a long time, so that it pushed the Chongzhen year to more than 200 years. Building a big newspaper altar offered sacrifices to Emperor Wanli for "rebuilding the vassal state" and the kindness of Emperor Chongzhen. Even, he sought the Northern Expedition to the Qing Dynasty.

After the Qing Dynasty shaved their hair and changed their clothes, the contact between the border people made both North Korea and Vietnam face a problem-the clothing style of the Qing Dynasty may affect their subjects. In this regard, both sides issued a ban, prohibiting their subjects from imitating the costumes of the Qing Dynasty. However, in contrast, Koreans are more concerned about sticking to the clothes of the Ming Dynasty.

During the Qianlong period, envoys from North Korea, Vietnam and other countries visited Beijing, and Vietnamese envoys put on Qing Dynasty costumes in advance to please Qianlong, which naturally made him happy. However, when the meeting was over, the North Korean emissary seized the Vietnamese emissary and asked, "I didn't know that the dress code in your country was like this." . The Vietnamese messenger knew that he was wrong and was not ashamed to hide his face. On another occasion, a North Korean envoy visited the Qing Dynasty and passed by on his way back. A local man saw the Han clothes they were wearing, and he hoped that the special envoy would take off his clothes and let him try them on. When he put them on, he bowed to the North Korean envoy, and the two of them cried.

There are many such stories. When I was in college, I was quite shocked by these chapters in Ge's sinology works abroad, and felt that I had completely opened a new door to history. In the face of these stories, a word "sadness of parting" suddenly popped up in my mind.

However, history is cruel. After the Qing Dynasty entered the Central Plains, although the members of the original Chinese character cultural circle privately despised him, in the face of the huge scale and powerful strength of the Qing Dynasty, these "cousins" who paid attention to China's rites and music and Han costumes could only look at the Central Plains and move forward separately.

With modernization and nationalization, East Asia is drifting away.

Although Koreans have maintained their inner insistence on the former king's clothes, loyalty and the distinction between Chinese and foreigners, they still need to face the reality of surrendering to the Qing Dynasty. Not to mention the Japanese and Vietnamese, gradually, the mood of Lu Chen, who missed the sadness of China people, began to change. All three countries call themselves China, believing that they have inherited the vanished civilization of Zhongzhou. Moreover, in order to keep a cultural distance from the Qing Dynasty and leave the nourishment of interaction and mutual learning between the Ming Dynasty and the Central Plains, the two sides inevitably developed in a more local direction in terms of clothing.

The costumes of the early Li Dynasty were not much different from those of the Ming Dynasty, not only because they admired China, but also because the Central Plains accepted them as a member of the Greater China world and they took the initiative to learn. More importantly, through constant service, the Ming Dynasty ensured that the dress system of North Korean aristocrats remained roughly similar to that of the Ming Dynasty. It can be said that the annihilation of Hanfu system in the Central Plains indirectly led to the exhaustion of maternal nutrition in the evolution of clothing for the surrounding ethnic groups characterized by right collar.

Later, as we all know, when the once-in-a-thousand-year great changes came to East Asia, the different roads of different countries once again tore the remaining cultural identity to pieces. Japan not only confronted its neighbors militarily and politically, but also ideologically jumped out of the Greater China identity circle constructed by Confucian culture and left Asia for Europe. North Korea and Vietnam, facing the dilemma of modernization and the danger of being colonized, have become the top priority. The argument between China and foreigners was not so important hundreds of years ago.

After World War II, the cultural outlook of Vietnam has been changed by the colonists, and the square characters have withdrawn from the society, and the Latin Pinyin invented by the French has become the official script. Under the Japanese colonial rule, the Korean peninsula has been constantly exploring the cultural forces that unite the people against Japanese rule, among which the proverbs invented by Sejong and Christianity introduced from the West have become important cultural weapons. Japanese with Chinese characters has become a colonial era mark that needs to be removed.

Today's noise is the aftermath of 400 years ago.

In the past 400 years, the international relations system in East Asia has gradually changed from the traditional Confucian world structure to a modern international system with nation-state as the main body. The civilized resources that once nourished the whole cultural circle of Chinese characters have become the fuse that easily leads to disputes.

Japan, as an island country, began to localize in the cultural circle of Chinese characters earlier. Since the 9th century, it has created writing symbols of pseudonyms with reference to Chinese characters. Moreover, the attitude towards the elements of civilization from the mainland, such as clothing, music and architecture, is detached. It is generally believed that they originated in China, but after thousands of years of development, they have formed their own national culture.

Of course, the people of China can feel this gesture of the Japanese and feel gratified. However, as a former invader, all the cultural symbols with Japanese imprint in China today are easy to cause negative associations, and sometimes such associations even hurt themselves. For example, Chunxi Road burned Hanfu.

The peninsula, once proud of inheriting Daming's mantle, is divided into two parts. After experiencing the rising period of rapid economic growth, it is inevitable for South Korea to strengthen its national identity and pride through culture. At this time, many cultural elements once faced the danger of confrontation with China. There are simply too many such examples, Dragon Boat Festival, Chinese medicine (TCM) and Korean medicine. Aside from the media embellishment surrounding these events, we can see the fact that the cultural resources used by China's great civilization circle 400 years ago are incompatible with the independence of the nation-state and the sense of national culture today.

/kloc-The story of the revival of Hanfu in 0/7 continues.

Seventeen years have passed since Wang Letian bravely put on his own Hanfu and took to the streets in 2003. However, there are also many theoretical, practical and commercial differences among Hanfu practitioners known as Tongpao. As a wild companion who only participated in modern Hanfu from 20 1 1, I saw many problems and arguments, but most of them were the prosperity of Hanfu.

Zhou Zong or Chongming is the biggest problem. If a clothing system needs to be identified, it must have a relatively unified external image. Zhou is the source of China's rites and music, and Ming is the latest fracture surface of China's clothing.

On the one hand, this kind of debate and practice has caused some troubles for the outside world to quickly accept Hanfu again, but it has also released thousands of years of cultural resources and enriched everyone's choices. In decades of practice, the popular style of Ququ has gradually become cold, but now many styles dominated by Tang, Song and Ming styles have gradually become the mainstream, and a number of Ming and Han clothing merchants such as Minghuatang have become industry benchmarks. The dispute between Zhou Zong and Chongming has seen hope in practice.

This is also a foreshadowing of the dispute between Hanfu and Hanfu. For hundreds of years, Hanfu was absent in East Asia, and now it is back, but it still faces many problems, which are not fully known by all Han people. Its close relative Hanbok, with the strong output of Korean film and television dramas, has left a distinct label in the cognition of many people in China. No wonder many people in China mistake Hanbok made in Ming Dynasty for Hanbok. This is the tragedy and helplessness of history. Please don't yell at your compatriots who don't know the truth.

The reason why people have a vague understanding of Hanfu lies not only in its forced withdrawal from the historical stage, but also in the biased theme of film and television dramas and sloppy service. The theme preference is obvious to all, and the Qing Palace drama and the Republic of China drama occupy the screen. Take the most common sloppy clothes as an example-golden wings and a bright yellow robe. It can be said that, as far as I can see, before The Biography of Female Doctor Fei Ming, I haven't seen any decent Ming Dynasty costumes appearing in TV series, and the influence of The Great Ming Robbery is also limited.

The development of Hanfu movement indirectly promoted the improvement of clothing standards in TV dramas in Ming Dynasty. First of all, a large number of viewers began to care about the correctness of Ming Dynasty costumes as one of the indicators to judge the score of a TV series. Secondly, many individual researchers and businessmen in the field of Hanfu began to rediscover historical patterns, colors and shapes, and made ready-made clothes, which provided a shortcut for those crews to learn from or copy. Thirdly, Hanfu has become a cultural phenomenon. In the Z generation, it was superimposed with ancient music and animation to form a considerable commercial market. Once consumers are created, brands will certainly please them.

Therefore, Hanfu has returned to the public's vision. With the increase of participants, the level of ready-made clothes has been continuously improved, and the new consumer culture has gradually formed a climate, which is then fed back to the field of literary and artistic creation. In this way, the film and television works with the Ming Dynasty as the background dare not deceive the public so blatantly, and even flaunt their own textual research to gain a good impression, because more people know that Hanfu in the Ming Dynasty is not a feathered hair, a funerary object on the head or a tulle on the body.

Therefore, many netizens can take out so many historical documents and painting materials to fight back at the first time after this dispute, and domestic research institutions are also involved. Looking back, have you ever seen such a scene when Dae Jang Geum was released? Anyway, I read it with relish, but I still feel very intimate.

I hope the future will be an era of reconciliation.

The collapse of the Ming Dynasty caused the rupture of East Asian cultural identity. After the Central Plains shaved and changed clothes, North Korea continued an important branch of Hanfu. However, things have changed. Chinese people forget Hanfu, Koreans think their clothes are their own, and Hanfu returns to the Central Plains.

Although the Ming Dynasty was the center of East Asia and exported a large number of cultural elements to North Korea, the two sides also had exchanges under the same background of cultural identity. For example, the ponytail skirt was introduced to Beijing from North Korea.

However, the modern country is no longer the Ming Dynasty. After reviving our own culture and refuting the outside world, we must not fall into the center of China's great powers again, which makes people feel disgusted. We should cherish the cultural resources we once shared. I hope that after the historical roots are cleared up, everyone will treat each other as equals, properly handle disputes and move towards a reconciled future.