China ancient diet

1, China's ancient dietary aesthetics.

Sweetness, Kindness and Beauty —— The Germination of China's Diet Thought

Yuan Mei-"The way to learn, the foresight, the diet."

"All five flavors are sweet."

"Big sheep are very fat."

"The words of food are good."

Yuan Mei, an ancient China gourmet (17 16 ~ 1797), said: "The way to learn is to learn before you act, and so is diet." ("and the garden food list, notice list")

The term "prophet before action" here is not the epistemological inversion of idealism in which knowledge precedes practice, but it means "it is not difficult to know before action" and it is the regression and deepening of the second stage of "knowledge-practice" in the cognitive process. In other words, only by mastering the necessary experience and knowledge can we make a good dish, and only by having considerable aesthetic cultivation can we create a corresponding gourmet life.

It can be said that the brilliant development of China's ancient food culture is the result of the joint efforts of countless gourmets, food theorists, food producers and countless active participants in food activities in the long history of national food life. They created their own unique aesthetic theory in their diet practice, and under the guidance of this theory, they pushed their diet life and culture to a glorious historical height.

1. Sweetness, beauty and goodness-the bud of the concept of food beauty. The origin of "beauty" has always been the first question to be answered by aestheticians.

Due to the different aesthetic angles, research methods and cognitive levels, there have been many theories, such as "primitive religious consciousness theory", "human nature theory of loving beauty", "labor theory" and "game theory".

It should be said that all the above origins have some truth. "Everyone has a love for beauty", and the feeling and consciousness of "beauty" are different understandings of my life in the world.

Therefore, it can be said that the above statements are not comprehensive enough. Because the understanding of "beauty" and the objects caused by it are extremely extensive and all-encompassing.

In this way, the origin of beauty should be all areas of human life-the tentacles of human thinking. This determines the extreme universality and heterogeneity of the consciousness of beauty.

The aesthetic consciousness of the standard of diet life can be understood as the feeling and consciousness of human beings (nations or individuals) on the beauty of diet life. The aesthetic thought of diet is the concentration, deepening, leap and systematic perfection of the above consciousness, the feeling, understanding, thinking, exploration and creation of the beauty of diet life, and the understanding, understanding and theorization of the beauty of diet life. Of course, enlightenment and understanding of other objects and fields cannot be ruled out. But it can't be understood as the simple mechanical transplantation and borrowing of the latter. Rich written records and unearthed cultural relics provide a lot of credible evidence for our understanding.

The concept of "beauty" originated in ancient China. Shuowen explained: "Beauty is sweet. From the sheep. Sheep are fed by six livestock keepers. Beauty is consistent with goodness. " Paragraph note: "What you say is good. Sheep are auspicious. Therefore, beauty follows the sheep. " "These sheep are big and fat." This seems to tell the general law of China's ancient food aesthetic consciousness: it comes directly from food practice. Mutton tastes "sweet", and Shuowen explains: "Sweet and beautiful. Take one from your mouth. First, Tao also. " Paragraph note: "All five flavors are sweet." "Food is different, but Tao is one. The so-called taste is also awkward. " Food is beauty, beauty is a feeling, a realm-"Tao", and all kinds of food have concrete and abstract "Tao". The so-called "Tao is one" is not a kind of "taste", but an artistic conception that various tastes have or can achieve, and it is a subjective examination of the objective.

In ancient times, sheep was one of the livestock widely raised by the ancestors of Huangsa Valley, and it was the most important meat source for people's daily consumption. Secondly, probably because sheep is needed by everyone, and it can walk (so as not to burden the carrier), produce milk, reproduce and gain weight (as a symbol, it won't wear out), so in ancient times, sheep was the easiest to act as a barter medium. This point is * * * in the commercial development history of many nationalities in the world, so Marx regarded sheep as "a general or social equivalent form" in Das Kapital. Third, sheep are used as sacrifices in sacrifices and alliances. Probably because of this, the sacrifice of sheep is of great significance. Both Xiu and Shuo Wen are interpreted as "astronomical phenomena". See good or bad. "Show" and "Look at good or bad luck." In order to avoid bad luck, sacrificing sheep can bring good luck. This is the birth of the "beauty" of sheep. Fourth, the sheep is a "sacred object" to worship ghosts and gods, so in personnel, giving away the sheep is regarded as a heavy gift. Because sheep is a symbol of ceremony, a grand ceremony is not a ceremony unless it is a sheep. When Zigong "wanted to tell the sheep of the new moon" (The Analects of Confucius III), he was opposed by Confucius, who abided by etiquette and righteousness. From the above four points, we can see that sheep played an extremely important role in the economic life and religious sacrifices of ancient Chinese people. Therefore, it can be inferred that when the ancients created the word "beauty", it was this universal "sheep" that was chosen as the pictograph and understanding of the word "beauty".

February 4, 2008 14: 13 reply ♂ light ink and light fir ♀ 1 fans, 2nd floor.

However, we still feel that the above four points are not enough. Because it only answers the important position of sheep in people's lives, the degree of attention and the general reasons. This only shows that sheep have important economic and general cultural significance, which is not enough to fully explain the aesthetic significance. So, what exactly is it, that is, what kind of sheep's essential attributes have aroused people's love and triggered our ancestors' beautiful reverie and thinking? Let's look at the explanation in Shuowen again: "Beauty is sweet. ..... Beauty is consistent with goodness. " Look up the "Gan" section of Shuowen again, and you will know: "America also has a population." Duan Yucai explained: "Gan is one of the five flavors, and all five flavors are delicious." "The beauty of the five flavors is sweet. Everything that is good is called beauty. " The word "goodness", both Xu Wen and Zhu Duan are "consistent with beauty and goodness". Interpretation of the name: "Gan, containing also, people containing also." That means delicious food. Therefore, "sweetness" and "beauty" are mutually trained, and beauty and goodness are synonymous; Taste is known in the mouth, beauty comes out of the mouth, goodness comes out of the mouth, and the beauty of diet appears.

Sweet taste, after being chewed, makes people feel comfortable and comfortable in touch, taste and psychology. This image can also be painted and decorated on the painted pottery basin surface of Yangshao culture (sketch) in Anbanpo, Xi 'an. Although there is another interpretation of the meaning in the picture, intuitively, it is more appropriate to understand that a population contains two fish, with a smile on their faces, as if intoxicated by the sweetness of this fish. We believe that the aesthetic consciousness in diet life originates from "sweet" delicacy-that is, the first is functional pleasure.

Harmony of Five Flavors —— Exploration of Harmonious Beauty

The ideological source of "harmony"

The content of "harmony"-the method of cooking things, the heat is the heaviest, those who need fire, frying is also right, and weak fire will exhaust things. If there is a need for slow fire, it should also be slow, and the fire is fierce and dry. People who use fire first and then slow fire will gather soup, and impatient people will be scorched and unfamiliar inside.

Harmonious effect-"sweet but not strong, sour but not cold, salty but not reduced, spicy but not strong, light but not thin, fat but not thick."

The Fifth Generation Elders Understand Diet-Advanced Aesthetics

People seldom know the taste after eating and drinking.

Ten aesthetic styles-a systematic and perfect aesthetic principle

quality

Quality and nutrition of raw materials and finished products

It is the premise, foundation and purpose that runs through the whole diet activity.

The quality beauty of raw materials is the foundation and soul of all other beauties, so it has been put forward as a gourmet element for a long time and has always been the basic element of China's ancient food aesthetics.

sweet

A smell that evokes emotion and stimulates appetite.

As the saying goes, if you can't see its shape, "those who smell it are ten steps away." (Biography of Wang Xiaoyu, the chef of Kokura Mountain Residence) Smelling incense is one of the most important signs of food beauty, and it is also a key aesthetic link to identify beauty, predict deliciousness and an important sensory index to test cooking skills.

The word "Xiang" expresses meaning, which originated from people's feelings about the beauty of diet. Shuowen explained: "Sweet and fragrant. From glutinous rice, from sweet. "

Color, pleasing to the eye and moist color, not only refers to the natural beauty of raw materials (the beauty of quality is the premise, and the temperature and other factors in cooking are also important), but also refers to the combination of various raw materials. Take beauty as another criterion. Beauty, not only can see the beauty of raw materials, but also can see that cooking skills and cooking methods are just right. You can also see the beauty of harmony between the colors of various raw materials. The aesthetic value of Yao biography can basically be determined by the intuitive judgment of two sensory indexes: color and fragrance.

shape

Artistic and aesthetic modeling that reflects the effect of food and serves the purpose of eating.

The understanding and pursuit of formal beauty in China's ancient food aesthetics thought is based on the beauty of raw materials, which fully embodies the combination of qualitative beauty, natural beauty and artistic beauty. Like China's ancient poems, paintings and calligraphy, they all pursue a natural, simple and elegant artistic conception.

The occurrence and development of cold dishes in China are much later and worse than hot dishes. Cold dishes had an important development period in the Tang and Song Dynasties, paying attention to the requirements of quality, taste, color, fragrance and shape. It is necessary to show the natural essence of raw materials and the skills of cooking knives in the combination, rather than carving.

appliance

Exquisite and suitable cooking and drinking utensils, mainly catering utensils.

Dining utensils include not only dishes, tea, wine, spoons and other utensils that ordinary people understand, but also special dining tables and chairs.

"A glowing glass of wine", "Good food should be beautiful" and "Good food is not as good as beautiful utensils". Exquisite utensils have not only become one of the important criteria for judging ancient cuisine, but also developed into an independent handicraft category with unique appreciation standards.

taste

Appetizing taste, also refers to delicious.

It emphasizes the natural taste of raw materials and the compound taste of five flavors.

This is the key to the good-looking effect when eating. Whether it is the innate taste of "orphan" raw materials or the compound taste of "anti-skin collocation" of various raw materials, it is necessary to "taste at the right time" (Article 28 of the Book of Rites Zhong Ni Yan Ni).

February 4, 2008 14: 13 reply ♂ light ink and light fir ♀ 1 3 The taste discrimination of fans on the third floor is not only a physiological function, but also a skill and a high-level ability to appreciate food culture;

Delicious is the main goal of China's ancient diet, and the beauty of taste has become the highest ideal realm.

Taste discrimination is a comprehensive identification activity of nose, eyes, tongue and spirit. Through the smell, color, shape, taste and rhyme, it is finally completed.

(appropriate)

Comfortable taste is the pleasant effect of tongue contact.

For the understanding and pursuit of fitness, "slippery" and "crisp" are the two most common words.

Crispy, because the texture of raw materials is timely and beautiful, and the cooking is ingenious, the taste is crisp.

"Slippery" and "crisp" are often used as delicious compliments, and "crisp" and "slippery beauty" are often seen in the literature.

Besides "smoothness" and "crispness", another important indicator of palatability is temperature.

Aesthetic feeling caused by proper touch, such as smoothness, brittleness, heat, cold, etc. , so that diners can get a very satisfying feeling in the process of eating and reach a pleasant artistic conception.

order

Refers to the reasonable collocation of raw materials, humidity, color, taste and tone of a table or the whole table; Scientific serving order; The harmonious and rhythmic procedure of banquet design and catering process.

The introduction of Preface is the inevitable result of taking food as pleasure and seeking beauty enjoyment in the process of eating.

. "Serving method: first salty and then light, first thick and then thin; There is no soup first, there is soup first ... Overeating will make the spleen sleepy, so we must use spicy to shake the spleen. I'm worried that I'll be tired after drinking too much. Must be reminded with sweet words. " ("With the garden food list, instruction list, instructions one after another")

situation

Elegant, harmonious and elegant banquet environment.

The banquet environment is different from natural, artificial, internal, external, large and small.

After gourmet life is recognized as a cultural aesthetic activity, "environment" naturally becomes one of the aesthetic factors.

interest

Delicious taste and elegant style.

At the same time, we need spiritual enjoyment, and finally achieve the purpose and situation of life enjoyment through the combination of the two.

Therefore, a variety of colorful singing, singing and dancing, silk and bamboo, geisha music, bo opera, elegant talk, wonderful calligraphy and painting activities, etc. It should be arranged with the whole banquet process, so that the banquet process can become a psychological process of activities and physiological activities, and a harmonious enjoyment of physiology and psychology that fully embodies cultural characteristics.

The ultimate goal of the top ten beauties

In Yuan Hongdao's "Zheng Zheng", thirteen criteria are listed for the "welcome" of banquets, and sixteen disadvantages are pointed out. The concentrated expression of the top ten beauties can be expressed in one word, that is, Yuan Hongdao's "Huan", that is, the style of interest is elegant and free from vulgarity, and as the last joy of the banquet, it ends in joy.

2. The diet thought of China aristocrats.

The traditional dietary concept of "chef cultivates virtue" has never been realized.

The phenomenon of dual personality thought and behavior deviation of "gentlemen stay away from cooking"

Common people's diet thought

Eat a full meal-food is the first thing for the people.

Be prepared for famine-it's sunny, but it's cloudy, so there are rice to prevent it.

Diligent housekeeping-the character of tightening one's belt and living a carefree life.

Poor to masturbate-eat humble meals until you are old, and wear rough cotton-padded clothes until you are old.

Not clean after eating, not sick.

China's Dietary Thought of Intellectuals

"It is said that most people in this nation have been honing their virtues all their lives, and they consciously retain the memory of the ancient holy teachings handed down by their ancestors."

Plato's Republic: "Only those who are hungry for wealth and commodities are lowly."

The dietary thought of upright people-respecting esophagus, observing dietary etiquette, being ashamed of taste, being content with frugality and keeping in good health.

Dietary thought of traditional Chinese medicine

Four principles of a reasonable diet-harmony of five flavors, moderate diet, hygienic diet and proper diet.

Emphasis is placed on the idea of treating diseases before they occur-"dietotherapy is the principle of treating diseases" and "a skill of treating diseases without illness".

Emphasize dietotherapy-medicine tonic is not as good as food tonic, and medicine tonic is not as good as food tonic.

Vegetarians' dietary thoughts

Early quasi-vegetarians-"Everyone is a vegetarian if he is hungry"

Taoist vegetarian view of health preservation-"fat meat is thick and wine is thick, and each strives for self-improvement, which is called rotten intestines."

Vegetarian Thought in Buddhist Commandments —— Xiao Yan's Nine Questions about Broken Meat

National tradition of showing filial piety and vegetarianism.

Zoroastrianism's "Eating Vegetables as Demons"

Gourmet's diet thought

A Tea Ceremony Gourmet Composed of a "Poet Who Loves Monks"

The formation of drinking gourmets-"A gentleman says that wine is a ritual, not a continuation of lewdness, but also a righteous one." "Ordinary people are drunk in ignorance, two people are drunk in nirvana, and only a great sage can drink less than chaos."

The concept of "gourmet"-everything is delicious, no matter how expensive.