Dong costume information!

Dong costume has always been an important part of Dong people's pursuit of beauty, and it is also an important symbol of Dong social development. Due to the different living habits in different places, Dong costumes are also diverse and different. Dong women's dress can be divided into formal dress and casual dress. Dressing is particularly rich in traditional national characteristics, which embodies the essence of national crafts. The costume culture of Dong people has been recorded as early as ancient times. In the Biography of Northern History compiled by li yanshou in the Tang Dynasty, it is recorded that "modern people can make fine cloth, and the color makes it fresh and clean", which reflects Dong Xianmin's textile technology and printing and dyeing skills at that time. In the Song Dynasty, there were more and more records about Dong costumes. "Notes on the Old Learning Temple", Volume 4, said: In Chen, Yuan, Jing and other states, there was a singer who said, "An unmarried person has a golden feather in his bun". Women are decorated with conch beads. "Xiao Fang Huzhai Jade Emperor Congchao" said: (Dong) Unmarried people are "arhats" and "all trapped in chicken feathers". Sun Yi's "Li Ping Chronicle" poem says: "The tall buildings are green and heavy with thousands of trees, and the pheasant-tailed bait rings worship each other." Every year in the first month, when the moon is sailing, men stick their heads on the tail of chickens, wear ancient costumes and play lusheng, which is great. Hongzhi's New Records of Guizhou in the Ming Dynasty said: Liping House belongs to "men's heads and feet, or wooden shoes", and "women's clothes, pants and short skirts are pleated skirts with embroidered words on the back like ribbons, embroidered cloth on the chest, and silver money and wooden combs on the back." Embroidering a gentleman is like a brocade, with a pointed top as a cover and no sandals on his feet. "There are similar records in the literature of the Qing Dynasty. He also said: "Dong people, vertebral bun, first inserted pheasant tail, flowered clothes", "Luohan first inserted pheasant feathers, vertebral bun wrapped in a wooden comb, wearing a half-flowered sleeve shirt, with pants but no skirt, the shortest shirt and the longest pants. Women wear a bun, a long hairpin, a flowered shirt, earrings and bracelets just like men. The skirt is the shortest, revealing the knees, wrapping the belly on the chest and decorating it with silver tweezers. A man and a woman each have a shoe. "In the last hundred years, with the improvement of social productivity, the exchanges between ethnic groups have increased. Especially in the Qing Dynasty, the degree of sinicization in the northern dialect area of Dong nationality has been very significant, and the costumes in the southern dialect area have also changed, except for Liping, Rongjiang and Congjiang in the southern mountainous areas, which have not changed much, and still maintain traditional characteristics. This is an embroidered coat of Dong nationality. It embroiders patterns on embroidered pieces, then cuts the embroidered pieces into pieces with different sizes and sews them on clothes as needed to form the patterns of the whole clothes. Dong costume culture is not only recorded in historical books, but also widely circulated in folk literature. There is a sentence in "Kuanci" that "the father looks for the tail of the chicken, and the mother makes a warm cloth to cover the body"; The Song of Sacrificing the Ancestors written by Chejiang in Rongjiang also said that young men "hang their tails over their ears and hang pipa on their chests". Nowadays, in Gao Chuan and Xindi, young people always dress up beautifully. There is a habit of wearing a plaid handkerchief with a chicken tail or heron feather on it to show their beauty. Legend has it that there are four styles of Dong costumes in Qiandongnan. In the long historical process, the Dong people have experienced a long and arduous migration, forming today's distribution areas and forming different styles of Dong costumes. Legend has it that in the early days, when Dong people migrated from east to west, they went up the river and reached Gao 'an, and some people went up the south river and settled in Shuikou and Anmin (this area is called Sizuniu area in Dong language). On the 15th day of August, young men compete to play lusheng, and young women are more beautiful than skirts. Because the girls in this area have temples on their heads, three silver crowns, tight sleeves on their tops, and shiny beads on their long skirts, much like peacock feathers. The local people call the girls' clothes in this area peacock clothes. Others moved to baloche and went upstream along the Luoxiang River to Guangdong, Du Dong, Tundong, Zhaodong, Yundong and Rudong. The Dong language is called Liu Dong area, and part of it passes through Zhong Chao, Jiasuo, Liping and Tanxi, reaching Jinping, Jianhe, Tianzhu and Qingshui River. Women in this area are dressed in blue. Some people migrated to Yintan, Shangsizhai River, Liping Cave and Congjiang Cave. The women's clothing in this area is similar to the ancient kimono, so the locals call it kimono style. The last part of the people moved to Rongjiang Guzhou, Shanghaoxi to Wancun, which is called forty-eight villages in Dong dialect. Women's clothing in this area is simple and ancient, showing a typical mountainous area. Therefore, people call it alpine style. Dong costumes can be roughly divided into north and south, each with its own characteristics. Tianzhu, Jinping and other places in the northern region have relatively convenient land and water transportation, high production level and developed cultural level. Therefore, the evolution of men's wear is basically similar to that of Han nationality. Only women's clothing, except in the county area, still maintains the traditional characteristics. Take the Dong costumes in Qiu Ping County of Jinping as an example: Women's dresses in Qiu Ping are worn by women, and the fabrics they wear are all operated by women, including cotton planting, textile, indigo printing and dyeing, sewing and embroidery, which shows their diligence and wisdom. The coat is mostly blue, round neck, right-slit, button-type pheasant, shoulder-shouldered color piping, and it is as long as the middle of the thigh, with red inner sleeves exposed at the feet. The sleeves are flat and the cuffs are lace. There are two belts on the back of the colored belt, which dance with the characters walking. Underwear is white or moon blue, and the sleeves are longer than the cuffs of the coat, which are exposed on the hand bowl. Wearing blue trousers and embroidered cloth shoes, feet up. Headdress and silver ornaments are the most exquisite decorations for women in Qiu Ping. They are good at long hair. They tie a hair plate on their heads with red rope and wrap a black handkerchief. They wear a silver hairpin and comb on the back of their heads, a silver plate flower and a silver crown on their heads, and gold and silver rings on their ears. Two groups of silver buttons on the neckline are arranged correspondingly, plus two groups of pheasant buttons; Wear five collars of different sizes around your neck; Wear five silver chains and a silver lock on your chest to suppress evil spirits; Wear a silver bracelet and a square bracelet on your wrist. There are patterns such as carving dragons and painting phoenixes, birds, insects, flowers and plants in the silver ornaments, which are all made by local craftsmen and are the fine products of local costume culture. This dress is simple and complicated, and it is very interesting. It's silvery and tinkling. The costumes in the southern area of Dong nationality are very different. Because it is located in the mountainous area, the traffic is inconvenient, so it still maintains a relatively old skirt. Nan Dong people are good at embroidery and their costumes are extremely exquisite. Women wear collarless clothes with large rows of buttons, and their skirts and cuffs are inlaid with exquisite ponytail embroidery. The patterns are mainly dragons and phoenixes, water clouds and flowers, pleated skirts and flower shoes. The bun is decorated with ring hairpin, silver hairpin, dragon and phoenix silver crown, multi-layer silver collar, earrings, bracelets, belts, silver waist, green cloth head, wide pants, sandals or barefoot. When dressing up, wear costume, bird costume, silver dynasty costume, moon costume, etc. Dong women are famous for their bright black hair and various hairstyles. They use tea seed oil to regulate water and wash their hair. Whether a girl or a married woman, long black and shiny hair looks good, and all kinds of hair temples are pulled out. No wonder people praise Dong women's hairstyles as the most beautiful among ethnic minorities. Dong women's hair bun decoration in Congjiang area is very rich. They decorate their hair with silver combs, wooden combs or colored beads and small silver ornaments. They also like to decorate their hair with flowers. Dong girls in Jiangzengchong area tie their hair on the left side of their heads and wear a pearl on their heads, which is very beautiful. Dong women in Liping wear silver crowns, which are made up of silver mascots such as fish, butterflies and silver coins, and some have feathers of various colors. Zhao Xing Dong girl scattered her hair on the side of her head, decorated with twisted silver ribbons and ruby and silver ornaments, and decorated with flowers, which was very beautiful. Zhenyuan reported that the silver crowns of Dong women in Beijing are more exquisite and gorgeous, and consist of many silver flowers. Dong women in the adjacent areas of Liping and Jinping wear hair bun and triangular headscarves. Dong women in Tianzhu and Harmony tie long braids on their heads before marriage and decorate them with flowers, colorful spikes and silver chains. Tie a bun after marriage and wrap your head with a long handkerchief. Dong nationality is a nation without writing, and its long and splendid culture has been passed down from generation to generation. In the long historical development process, the Dong people have stored some of their own cultural characteristics in their costumes, which has played a role in "writing history books". Dong people's costumes are the reappearance of farming culture: Guyue people are the earliest people who planted rice in China. Dong people are descendants of the ancient Yue people, and did not enter the stage society until the Tang Dynasty. In the long stage of primitive society, people worked together to grow rice, with obvious social division of labor. Everyone is in the same position, regardless of their status or their age. There are many patterns in Dong costumes, especially the "Hundred Birds Clothing" and "Lusheng Clothing" worn by women and men on major festivals. The patterns are complete, mainly including grain patterns, osmanthus patterns, plum blossom patterns, petal patterns, duckweed flowers, snail flowers, waterwheel flowers and other plant patterns, which have an intuitive connection with farming economy. Dong people's clothing rarely reflects the animal pattern of hunting economy, and fish bone pattern, shrimp pattern and dragon pattern are also related to farming. The value orientation of these patterns is always inseparable from the theme of rice culture. In addition, there are a large number of abstract geometric patterns in Dong costumes, such as triangle patterns, diamond patterns and spiral patterns, which are abstract reflections of people's production and labor in costumes. Archaeological data show that in Jiangnan, Southwest China and other provinces with a long history of rice cultivation, the unearthed pottery, bronzes, handicrafts and costumes handed down from generation to generation are almost all plant patterns and abstract geometric patterns. These areas are the earliest areas for rice cultivation in China, and they are also the Baiyue distribution areas. Since the founding of the People's Republic of China, the Dong people have mainly lived in this area. Dong costumes have the function of "national emblem". Although the Dong people are divided into three branches: Lao, Tan and Wen, their national consciousness and culture are basically the same, and the Drum Tower and costumes are basically two national emblems. As long as there are Dong villages, there will be Drum Tower. Obviously, Drum Tower has become a symbol of Dong people. As one of the important components of the Dong national culture, one of its social functions that cannot be ignored is to condense the spirit of the Dong people, thus forming collective unity, unity and order and enhancing the collective survival and combat effectiveness. For other nations, it is a sign of difference, while for this nation, it is a flag of mutual recognition and forms an inseparable bond. It is this aesthetic principle produced by the function of "national emblem" that makes the three branches of clothing types different. The "old" school is famous for its good embroidery, that is, it has exquisite composition and meticulous patterns on clothes, and Dong brocade is its typical representative. " "Tan" is good at making pottery, which is reflected in the clear lines and patterns on clothing, and the gown and skirt are its representative texts. "Tan" is a well-branched building, which is reflected in loose and harmonious clothing, simple but elegant and dignified. A variety of worship meanings in Dong costumes. Dong people are a polytheistic people who believe in animism. In the eyes of Dong people, dragons, phoenixes, flowers and birds, mountains and rivers, ancient trees and boulders, small bridges, wells and other things between heaven and earth can "show spirits" and drive away evil spirits, so people worship them, so they put on clothes with these patterns, pray for peace and get the protection and blessing of the gods. As a farming nation, the Dong people especially worship the natural objects related to rice farming, such as mountains, water, earth, sun, sky, thunder, grains and trees. After thousands of years of evolution, although the original characteristics have been lost, the worship custom has been passed down to this day, which is reflected in the clothing, and there are many clothing patterns related to totem worship. Grain patterns are related to grain varieties, and the custom of "Eating New Festival", which is popular in the whole Dong area, is a reflection of the worship of grain varieties. Fishbone pattern, triangle pattern and diamond pattern come from fish totem. Dong people have many myths and legends about fish totems, such as fish on New Year's Day morning, fish in marriage, fish in mourning for the elderly or ancestor worship. Water ripple and vortex ripple are related to Dong people's water worship, vortex ripple and dragon ripple are derived from snake worship and dragon totem respectively, circle ripple is related to sun worship, heaven worship and thunder worship, and tooth ripple is related to mountain worship. Children's hats often imitate animal heads and pray for children's health, which means amulet. In some areas, women wear horn handkerchiefs, which is said to be related to the totem of cattle. Many Dong costumes, especially the figures holding hands in Dong brocade, are the portrayal of the dance scene in which one or two hundred people are Cao, singing and dancing hand in hand, and several people are blowing sheng, leading the way. From these patterns, we can not only see the meaning of totem worship and ancestor worship of the Dong people, but also feel the rich local flavor and national characteristics of the Dong people.

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