Seeking an analysis of the costumes of some of the characters in an excerpt from the high school textbook Dream of Red Mansions! `

Editor's note from the qing dynasty character painter to change qi, to contemporary film and television drama creators, the qing dynasty novel "dream of red chamber" in the character dress image, most of the modeling to the ming dynasty hanzhu as a model. Over time, people have come to recognize this series of images, and it would be difficult to get people's approval if anyone changed to Qing Dynasty costumes. We are here to explore the description of the dress in the Dream of the Red Chamber, seems to be able to see something.

In fact, "Dream of the Red Chamber" is a novel of the Qing Dynasty. Although the text is very vague about the background of the depicted era, the images of costumes in the book, some of them are the costumes inherited from the Han Dynasty, and many of them are the costumes worn by people in the Qing Dynasty. For example, Shi Xiangyun in the 49th century wore a "sable rat head and face with big hair, black and gray rat lining, inside and outside the fever coat". The phrase "inside and out" refers to the use of fur on both the outside and inside of the clothes (winter clothes), which was prevalent during the Qianlong and Jiaqing periods of the Qing Dynasty. Although there are at least three ways to say the year of Cao Xueqin's death by the researchers of "Redology", the New Year's Eve of 1763 and the early spring of 1764 all refer to the twenty-eighth or twenty-ninth year of the Qianlong reign. Accordingly, we can assume that this kind of rich people borrowed valuable fur to show broad inside and outside the fever leather jacket popular for a while, it is Cao's own personal experience.

And then, Daiyu first arrived in the Rongguo House, Wang Xifeng wearing a "gold butterflies in red satin narrow side jacket, covered with five-color engraved silk stone silver rat coat". Li dan in the forty-ninth round of the "green dora tweed lapel coat". Assailant to go home to visit relatives is also in the "peach red hundred carve silk silver rat coat" outside, and then set on the "green satin gray rat coat". "Coat" appellation although the Ming dynasty, but the Ming dynasty Fang Yizhi "through elegant - clothes" said: "now Wu people called shirt, the North is called the coat." Xu Ke "qing taolu class notes - clothing" said: "coat, coat, dress is also added to the robe outside the person, said outside the coat, men and women are the same name, only the different ear system." Zhao Zhenmin, "Chinese clothing in the Manchu component of the suit," the solicitude identified: "China's ancient no 'coat' word ...... cover Manchu system." Combined with the Ming people said "North people", can also be considered to be Shanhaiguan, Zhangjiakou outsiders. It should be said that the lab coat is the customary name of the Qing people on the fat top.

Fifty-one wrote Jin Gui's maid Bao Tan, wearing a "piece of brocade (gold) edge pipa lapel small tight", pipa lapel is a kind of curved lapel, the corner of the square, and the lack of hakama robes in the Qing Dynasty, is a more typical of the horse national dress style. Pipa lapel vests were popular in the Qing Dynasty.

The image of Bao Yu's clothing appears many times in the book, often described as "wearing a two-color gold hundred butterflies through the flowers of the big red arrow sleeve" (the third time), or "wearing a white fox armpit arrow sleeve of the autumn fragrance color standing python" (the eighth time), or "wearing white python arrow sleeve" (15th), and "big red gold python fox armpit arrow sleeve" (19th). Although the arrow sleeve of the Ming Dynasty, but people wear not much, mainly limited to shooters and so on. Because the arrow sleeve that horseshoe sleeve, clothing

sleeve body narrow, sleeve end head for the slant, the cuff surface is longer, curved, can cover the back of the hand, so as not to affect the archery and can keep warm. Early Qing dynasty court because of the strong advocate of "not abolish riding and shooting", so the arrow sleeve for dress, became the typical pattern of the Qing dynasty men's clothing. In addition, the embroidered python robe, in the Ming Dynasty for the official regular clothes, only in the Qing Dynasty, only to relax the scope of wear. The Qing dynasty, only relaxed the scope of wear. The Qing dynasty canon has recorded that the prince, the county king, Baylor, as well as guards, princesses, women and other people can wear python robe. Distinguish between the rank of the main way is the number of python on the clothes and the number of python claws (such as four claws, five claws of the points).

Clothing fabrics several times involved in the word "foreign", such as the third Wang Xifeng wearing a "wispy gold butterfly in the flowers of large red satin narrow side seam jacket", "under the emerald sprinkled with flowers of crepe skirt", the forty-ninth Xue Baochai in the first time, the first time in the second time, the first time in the second time, the first time in the second time, the first time in the second time, the first time in the first time. The 49th Xue Baochai wore a "lotus green bucket pattern brocade on the flowers of foreign thread silk crane cloak", are imported materials.

Hair styles, such as the 71st time, wrote that Yingchun room maid Siqi combed "disheveled head", which is a kind of fluffy high bun. The Qing Dynasty people Wen Kang wrote the Qing Dynasty Kangxi the end of the Yongzheng early years of the "Children's Heroes" in the thirty-eighth, that is, "combed with a big loose disheveled head" said. This shows that "Dream of the Red Chamber" in a number of direct depiction of the dress is the Qing Dynasty dress.

Bundle of hair crown

The third time to write Baoyu head wearing a bundle of hair purple and gold crown, Qi Mei Le two dragons snatch pearl gold forehead.

According to: Ming Liu Ruoyu "Ming Palace History" water set "bundle hair crown" article cloud: "the system as worn by the playwright, with gold silk manufacturing, embedded in the green beads on the stone. Each one has a value of hundreds of gold, or more than a thousand gold, two thousand gold. Four-clawed python dragon coiled around the top, under the addition of a forehead, also worn as a playwright, around the insertion of long pheasant feathers. In all cases of outings, the late emperor's holy car is still this crown, then from Wang Tiquan, to the warmth of the Hall of cards stop, are wearing. Each wear narrow sleeves, bundled with jade belt, wear eggplant bag, knife molt, such as singing "Biting the navel Lang hit the fence" story. But Tu Wenfu, Gao Yongshou young to match, the old such as Pei -, Shi Bing, etc. wear it will not be elegant." According to this can be seen, Baoyu's a dress, quite similar to the Ming Dynasty teenage male extremely flashy attire.

Crane cloak

49 wrote Daiyu covered a large red feather veil face white lone skin in the crane cloak, Xue Baochai is a lotus green bucket pattern brocade on the flowers of the foreign line of the crane cloak.

According to: "Crane cloak" two words, seen in ancient texts. The Book of Jin - Xie Wan biography of the cloud: "white spandex scarf, crane cloak fur." Shishu Xinyao - Pengxian": "When Meng Chang was not yet a member, his home was in Jingkou, and he saw Wang Gong riding on a high carriage, being dressed in a crane cloak. When it was snowing slightly, Chang peeped at it from the fence and sighed: 'This is really a man of immortals.'" The Five Dynasties History - Lu Cheng biography: "Wearing a Huayang scarf, dressed in a crane cloak, according to a few decisions." According to Xu Hao, "& lt; Shuo Wen Jie Zi & gt; note paper" cloud: "to the kites hair for clothing, called the crane cloak, the beauty of its name." It can be known that the crane cloak is a kind of woolen fabric made of bird hair, so the name. But in the end what style is still puzzling. Only Ming Liu Ruoyu "Ming Palace History" water set "cloak" article cloud: "There are such as the robe sleeves, in recent years the ugly system. The old system did not sew the sleeve, so the name of the said cloak. Color, vegetative is not constrained." This is clearer. Probably looks like a robe, and not sewing sleeves, so draped over the body like a crane. This kind of clothing in the Ming dynasty in the palace, of course, the noble family also follow suit.

And, Cao Tingdong, Qing Dynasty, "health essay" Volume 3, "clothing" class cloud: "style such as being a banner, no two sleeves, and the total folded on the collar, commonly known as 'a total', also said 'Luohan clothes. Luohan clothes'. When the sky cold gas sukoshi, out of the house, can protect against the wind, sitting still can also be draped to protect against the cold. The world said "Wang Gong Phi crane cloak line in the snow, today's system cover this, it is also known as cloak, do leather when." said basically the same.

White fox skin

Forty-ninth, Daiyu covered a large red feather veil, white fox skin in the crane cloak.

Press: "Historical Records - Meng Changjun biography" cloud: "Meng Changjun have a fox white fur, straight thousands of gold." See, white fox skin has always been a valuable fur. Ming Song Yingxing "Tian Gong Kaifu" also said: "Where the fox raccoon also produced Yan, Qi, Liao, Bian Road. Pure white fox armpit fur price and sable similar. Yellow and brown fox fur is worth one-fifth of the sable, cold and warm body function is second to the sable."

Ermine skin

49 wrote Shi Xiangyun wearing Jia mother and her an ermine head face, big hair black and gray lining coat, big ermine wind collar around.

Press: mink and rat skin is also extremely valuable leather, known as the "Guandong three treasures" one. Ming Song Yingxing "Tiangong Kaiwu" said: "Mink produced in Liaodong, Korea. The rat is good at eating pine nuts, the barbarians wait under the tree at night, hold their breath and quietly shot to take it. The skin of a sable, the square is not more than a foot, the accumulation of more than sixty sable skin only into a fur. Those who serve sable fur, standing in the wind and snow, are warmer under the Yu. Squint into the eye, try to come out, so expensive. Color has three kinds, a white said silver sable, a pure black, a dull yellow." Qing Wu Zhenli "raised Ji Zhai Series Record" contains: "three products above the beginning of the service of the court dress, but I note that the title denies the argument; four products above the service of the sable coat, but Han Zhan Kodo regardless. The batch of the preaching matter, the military aircraft office of the chapter of Beijing and the inner court walking members, non-fourth grade is also permitted to wear ermine coats, since the Qianlong thirty-seventh year to start." Fugue "listening to the rain" Volume II "fur" cloud: "this dynasty, but the outer coat of Cui Cui to the outside, such as robes and jackets are to the inside as well. Prince, county king and outside, not allowed to take black fox. The civil service one, two, three products are allowed to serve outside the Cui Cui ermine set of court dress, the military service three products and also. Wen four products, military three products are allowed to serve ermine rat, lynx. Fifth to seventh grade pen sticker type, military school permitted to use ermine leader hat brim. Eight, nine officials are not allowed to wear ermine, lynx, white leopard, Tianma, silver rat. If the guards, Han Zhanke Dao, military chapters, regardless of rank, are according to the three product color, the mouth outside the cold places on business trips to Manchuria, Mongolia, Han army officials, are allowed to wear ermine, lynx sinking ship, do not restrain the rank." The two said slightly different, but the sable rat skin is not general fur can be compared to, in this can be seen, from the Jia people to the sable fur as a private living suit, that they are poor and luxurious to what extent.

Dorotian

49, Li dandy wearing a green dorotian lapel coat, Bao Yu wearing an eggplant-colored dorotian fox fur jacket.

According to: the early Qing dynasty, Western European countries envoys to China, often to the Qing emperor to do Luo tweed velvet. According to the "Qing canon example" records: Shunzhi thirteen years, the Netherlands into the goods in the Dole velvet, KangXi six years and into the Dole and Dole velvet. Kangxi nine years, the Western countries into the Do Luo velvet. Kangxi twenty-five years, the Netherlands and into the dorotile and dorotile. Yongzheng five years, Western countries and into the big red dorotile, Qianlong seventeen years and into the various colors of dorotile. And, the western missionary Ai Ruliao written "western answer" volume on the western products said: "as for silk, cotton, flowers and fruits, all kinds of the same. The difference is such as velvet satin and so on, there are locks of baggage, Duo Luo velvet, there are gold and silver silk satin, a horse worth one or two hundred gold." Qianlong time, ** people ze yuan Kai written in Chinese "Qiong Pu even pen" Volume II of Chinese merchants Wang Zhuli language cloud: "In recent times, the death of a minister, the court has given DuoLuo was funeral, the Department of the Western tribute, like a mirror." and the cloud: "It is that the DuoLuo is the same as the other. Another cloud: "It is also a mirror, Tangshan call for Doro it, the Department of Western production, so there are tomato word recognition number."

The above information, quoted from the Fanghao "from & lt; Honglou Meng & gt; recorded Western items to test the background of the story," an article, from which it can be seen, do Luo it is imported, and is an expensive tribute, in fact, is a kind of tweed broad width.

The eider nightmare fur

Forty-ninth, fifty-second Baogin wearing eider nightmare fur, is the hair of the head of the wild duck.

By the way: the name of the dimple fur has not been recorded. According to Wu Shichang explained, "Xijing Miscellany", Si Ma Xiangru in Chengdu "to wear the teal turquoise kingfisher fur on the city people Yang Chang buy wine, and Wenjun for joy." According to the "er ya wing - interpretation of the bird" cloud: "the turquoise kingfisher, water bird, cover the goose genus also. The old collection of clouds: 'there are eider mandarin ducks, there are geese the turquoise kingfisher'. Gao lure note "huainanzi" cloud: "long neck green, its shape like a goose.'" Therefore, the turquoise kingfisher is likely to be made from the feathers of ducks. Also, the book of jin - emperor wudi Ji" cloud: "Xianning four years in November Xin Si, too doctor Sima Cheng according to the offering of pheasant head fur. The emperor to strange skills and clothing, ceremony is prohibited, burned in front of the temple. A Shen, the Royal Decree inside and outside the crime of those who dare to commit." And, "South Qi Book - Prince Wen Hui biography" cloud: Prince "good at making treasures, weaving peacock feathers for fur, colorful gold and jade, too far away from the pheasant head." This further shows that the pheasant head fur is there, which is closer to the eider dimple fur of a bird hair fabric.

Match, Zhaojun set

The third time to write Bao Yu head wearing a bundle of hair purple and gold crown, Qi Mei Le two dragons snatch pearl gold match. The sixth time to write Feng Sister's family often with sable Zhaojun set. The forty-ninth time to write Shi Xiangyun head wearing a top dug cloud goose yellow piece of gold in the big red orangutan felt Zhaojun set.

According to the Qing Pingbuqing "Xiawai sort of chips" Volume 10 "Qi Mei, cap, Zhaojun set" article cloud: "Xiyun Zhaji" Volume 1: the women's jewelry has a smear. These two words are also found in the book of Tang - Lou Shide biography ", and" Nanban biography ", and Han Yu" Zheng Shangshu preface ". Continuation of the Han Shu - opinion service Zhi Note, Hu Guang said: 'the northern cold, to sable warm forehead, attached to Shi in the crown, because then into jewelry, this is the origin of the smear amount.' According to: to ermine warm forehead, that is the group of Jun set wipe forehead, and that is the cap, and that is Qi Mei, the actor is said forehead." And, Fan Bin "yandu miscellaneous chorus" poem note cloud: "winter months in the boudoir to ermine skin over the forehead, the name 'Zhaojun set'." According to the above information, Baoyu wearing gold forehead, is jewelry. Sister phoenix and xiangyun wear zhaogun set, is applied to the crown of the sable warm set, not jewelry. The name of "Zhaojun set", when and Wang Zhaojun out of the plug.

Tianma Leather, Wu Yun Leopard

Fifty-fourth, Assailant home, Phoenix ordered Ping'er will be yesterday's piece of stone green engraved silk eight groups of Tianma Leather lab coat out with the Assailant. Fifty-two, Baoyu want to go to Prince Teng's home, Jia mother then ordered mandarin ducks: "the yesterday's that a black cloud panther's cloak to also it." Baoyu look, gold and green **, blue color flashes, and not like the Baoqin cloak eider dimple fur. Only to hear Jia mother laughed: "This is called as a bird gold it, this is Oh Ross country peacock hair flicked line weaving."

Press: "Qing Yitong Zhi" cloud: "sand fox born in the moraine, body small color white, skin set for fur, in the underbelly of the name of the Tianma skin, under the chin of the name of the cloud panther, are valuable." According to this, the sky horse skin, cloudy leopard are sand fox skin, and the following is called "bird gold it", do not understand. Pegasus skin is precious, can be proved from Hao Yi line "sunshine book of the Hall": "You Xitang said: 'in the Beijing division into the court, see the same officials are sheep fur ear. Today, I heard that Ban Xing Ye I do not wear fox lead, Tianma, Sherry Sun.' Eucalyptus in the early Kangxi, now more than a hundred years, fox lead, Tianma has become a private home regular clothes, and there are bone seed sheep, grass on the frost carry on."

Lynx big fur

Fifty-three, Jia Zhen looked at the packing ready to supply, children's shoes, wearing a lynx big fur, ordered in the hall under the columns of the stone islet on the sun, laid a large wolf skin mattress to sit down and look at the children and nephews to receive the annual things.

According to: lynx, also written as pulling a sinking ship, Sherry Sun, is a rare and valuable animals, distributed in the northeast of China and other places, to do the leather clothing, extremely valuable. Qing Dai Lu "Vine Yin Miscellany" recorded: "'Jingtang Zhanhanhan two Yamen, all take off the sable fur lynx sinking ship. Last night five cold, who do not complain about Kwai Zun.' Yuyang play, when the Kangxi b Oh, Ren Kwai Zun Hong Jia Zuo three products below the ban on clothing ermine fur, lynx also. A time to serve the pressure rhyme of stability. Zhao Hengfu Ji Shi Yuanxie poem: 'Remember to give the Qiong Feast sub-division, Cicada Sable dazzle clothing dare to strife.' Now the Beijing Hall Han Zhan Kodao is still allowed to sable, I do not know when the old." And, Hao Yi line "sun study hall pen records" also said: "You Xitang said: 'in the capital into the dynasty, see fellow officials are sheep fur ear. Today, I heard that the class line in no clothes fox lead, Tianma, lynx, the lynx.' Particularly in the early Kangxi, now more than a hundred years, fox lead, Tianma has become a private home regular clothes, and there are bone seed sheep, grass on the frost carry on." The above information shows that the lynx is a valuable fur. Kangxi in the early years, the court officials wear lynx very few, and later wear more and more people, so thirty-four years there are three products below the ban on clothing sable fur, lynx restrictions. Probably to the Qianlong after the middle, the ruling class luxury winds, the ban gradually relax, wear more and more people. Jia Zhen is the third grade Wei Lie general, is not subject to the restrictions of the ban.

Bird gold tweed

Fifty-two wrote Jia mother ordered mandarin ducks to yesterday's a black cloud leopard cloak to Bao Yu. Yuanyang promised to go, really took a piece to. Baoyu look, gold and green **, blue color flashes, and not like the Baoqin cloak eider dimple fur. Only to hear Jia mother laughed: "This is called for the bird gold it, this is Oh Ross country to take the peacock hair flicked line weaving."

According to: Wu Shichang in the "from the Mawangdui Han Tomb unearthed" feather appliquéd silk "to & lt; red chamber dream & gt; in the" sparrow gold it "" an article on the sparrow gold it is very detailed. He quoted from the Han Dynasty to the early Qing Dynasty historical data, confirming that the ancient Chinese working people using bird feathers made of more than ten kinds of clothing, mostly made of fur to protect against the cold, but also woven into Luo, satin, brocade and other luxury goods for the upper ruling class women to do dresses. For the early Qing Dynasty, he only quoted Wu Meicun's words: "Jiangnan good, the loom to take the work of heaven. The peacock wool fabrics are made of peacock wool, which is used to make dresses and skirts for the ruling class women in the early Qing Dynasty. To illustrate the existence of peacock wool fabrics, seems a little inadequate. Early Qing Dynasty Ye Mengzhu "read the world" Volume VIII has a record, is more informative and explain the problem. This record says: "In the past, the satin only silk woven into the Chinese to brocade, and the weaving of the brocade rate are gold skeleton for the, to take its shine only. Today there are peacock hair woven into the satin, called wool brocade, flower more gorgeous, each horse but twelve feet, worth more than fifty silver two." This proves that peacock hair fabrics do exist, and there are certain specifications, there are market prices. However, "Dream of the Red Chamber" that it is the product of Oh Ross country, it is purely incidental to the talk, not credible.

And, "National Studies Series" Book IV in Zhou Zhaoxiang "Palace display of the chronicle" in an article also said: "Peacock hair woven into python clothes in Qianlong, ...... All rare products." Visible before the liberation of the Imperial Palace display there is this kind of wool woven into python clothing in kind exists, which is also a strong evidence of the bird gold it is.