Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What are the types and styles of Hanbok
What are the types and styles of Hanbok
The styles of Hanbok that are often worn by Hanbok revivalists are: curved train, straight train, high-waisted 襦襦, 襦襦裙, round-necked gowns, pasted together, Zhu Zi Shamyi, Xuan Duan, etc. □ Curve Train □ Curve Train was popular during the Qin and Han Dynasties. □ Curve Train Popular in the Qin and Han Dynasties, basically extinct in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, and belonging to the "ancient costume" in the Ming Dynasty. □ Straight Train Popular during the Qin and Han Dynasties, this style was later developed into a variety of styles, such as the straight-jacket and the straight-body. The Japanese kimono is largely based on this style. □ 襦裙 襦裙 As a woman's costume, it has been the basic style in almost all dynasties. □ Pasted jacket A popular fashion in the Song and Ming Dynasties, the large-sleeved pasted jacket with basic lace at the seams was popular in the Song Dynasty, and the small-sleeved pasted jacket was popular in the Ming Dynasty. □ Xuan Duan Chinese-style tuxedo, traditional large dress. □ High-waisted 襦裙 The popular fashion for women in the Sui and Tang dynasties, and the popular noble hairpin-tin big ceremonial clothes in the same period, which is the originator of the twelve sheets of Japanese kimono nowadays. Meanwhile, the style of high-waisted jacket had a profound influence on Korean Joseon dress. □ Round-necked robe Since Tang, it basically became the style that only people with status and position were qualified to wear, and the Song and Ming official dresses were basically round-necked. And during the Ming Dynasty, the Korean Lee Dynasty's court dress was almost copied from the Ming Dynasty. □ Zhu Zi Shamyi The traditional upper and lower garments are cut separately, but sewn together to form a whole called Shamyi. The Juzi Shamyi was generally worn by scholars. Ancient Clothing The earliest clothing is supposed to have originated in labor. According to legend, the ancient image of Shennong, the Emperor of the Yan Dynasty, was: wearing a red jacket, with arm bands on his arms, his calves were bound, his head was covered with a bird-feathered hat, his feet were on leather shoes, and his hands were holding agricultural tools, which was just like a picture of a farmer. And legend has it that what the common people wear on their heads is not a feathered hat, but a pointed hat or a cylindrical high hat. Legendary image portrayal may be from the unearthed artifacts in some of the image of the analysis; but prehistory is no record, it is incredible, so it may also be out of the speculation of the descendants. In ancient times, the Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun began to have clothes, the end of the prehistoric state of the periwig. People wore this style of clothing to worship their ancestors and heaven and earth. People learned from experience that in the morning before dawn, the sky is black (called Xuan), and the upper garment is like the sky, so the color Xuan is used; while the earth is yellow, and the lower garment is like the earth, and the color of the garment is yellow, thus expressing the worship of the sky and the earth. Ancient times, the upper garment and lower garment on behalf of the clothing style, and the upper garment and lower garment connected to the deep clothing system, this deep clothing form at that time men and women did not distinguish " "Wei Jin clothing Wei Jin clothing clothing, although retained the basic form of the Han Dynasty, but in the style characteristics, but there is a unique and prominent place, which has a close relationship with the art and crafts of that time the creation of ideas, the homogeneity of their styles is more obvious. Sixth century A.D. Persian pattern pattern through the Silk Road into China, the textile, clothing and other decorations at that time, have had no small impact. This is reflected in Dunhuang murals. The Wei and Jin dynasties stipulate that the court dress with red, often take purple. White was the color of the common people's clothes. At this time, the clothing style is still mainly 襦, skirt, fur is informal clothes. Women's decorations are more elaborate, there are gold rings, silver about the finger and around the wrist of the jump off and so on. There was still a big difference in texture between the palace and outside the palace. Wei Jin armor is the most common form of armor is two crotch armor, long to the knee, above the waist is the chest and back of the armor with small pieces of armor braided together, some with the whole piece of large pieces of armor, armor identity before and after the two pieces of the shoulder and both sides of the belt with a bundle. Chest and back with round protection. Because most of them are made of copper and iron and other metals, and polished to be extremely bright, rather like a mirror. When the armor is worn on the battlefield, it emits bright light due to the sun's irradiation, so it is called this way. This kind of armor style is many, and the complexity is different, some just in the crotch on the basis of the front and back of the two pieces of round protection, some are equipped with shoulder pads, knee pads, complex and heavy shoulder pads. Most of the body armor is long to the hips, and the waist is tied with a belt. Southern and Northern Dynasties Clothing Southern clothing style to 襦襦裙, women, especially with a skirt for the orthodox, do not wear a skirt and show pants people, is seen as impolite behavior. At that time, women wore white scarves (a kind of scarf with a green ribbon, which legend has it that Zhu Geliang usually wore during the Three Kingdoms period), with long and narrow sleeves and carved floral motifs. The dancers wore long shirts and very long bands on their bodies, and their heads were bound with dandy scarves. The North and South Dynasty clothing style and robe and shirt, shirt in Jin Dynasty has been a must-wear clothes. Fur is extremely precious at this time, with sable fur as the most. Is a young man's favorite clothing, thin young people love colored, jacket, cape, cape, these are the popular clothing at this time. The Southern Dynasties basically inherited the Wei and Jin Dynasties, due to the war and the frequent change of the country, reflected in the dress code has also changed. Jiangnan clothing style than the northern short, but at that time it was popular to wear a small hat wearing a coat, sometimes a sleeve into two, a skirt cut into two skirts, some styles of large collar with a large band, some of the clothes narrow sleeves, some skirt long trailing, some clothes long hidden feet. The court dress of the Southern Dynasties is still the basil coat. There were regulations on the materials used for the costumes. Officials below the third rank were not allowed to wear clothes made of mixed-color qi, and those below the sixth rank could only wear seven-color qi, and could not use raw silk. The art and dress styles of the Southern Dynasties were in the same lineage, and many excavated figurines show us women with thin waists and round faces, with very beautiful faces, especially from the figurines of Jiangnan, which are more prominent, and the dresses are very consistent with the long skirts and the wide clothes and sashes. North Dynasty dress, official formal occasions wearing vermilion-colored singlet, plain clothes and military uniforms to the main. Wearing red robes, they wore gold belts, and wearing long robes with small sleeves, they used gold and jade belts. Civilian women wore jacket and coat as their regular clothes, which was no different from the Southern Dynasties. During the Northern Dynasties, the most expensive material for dress was damask brocade. The scroll pattern of the Northern and Southern Dynasties was developed on the basis of the cloud pattern of the Han Dynasty. Dunhuang made well (alone suitable for pattern), triangular flowers (suitable for pattern) and striped flowers (two-sided continuous), flying sky, cloud pattern and other dynamic images skillfully combined, both ancient, beautiful, but also subtle and soft. Woolen blankets, linen and silk were prevalent products at that time. Western Zhou clothing The establishment of the Western Zhou, so that the social productive forces greatly developed and improved, the material is obviously rich, the social order is also towards the rationalization, and there are rules and regulations. Dress form also due to the existence of the hierarchy of inferiority and superiority, the need for etiquette and further standardization, was included in the scope of the rule of etiquette, inferiority and superiority, respectively. At this time the special boundaries of the dress level mark began to be clear, the variety of categories also increased accordingly, such as the court room to worship heaven and earth, to honor the gods and goddesses when the special sacrifice dress, on the dynasty ceremonies when there will be the court dress, military in the special from the military service, the wedding ceremony special wedding dress, mourning and funeral service. Clothing, although still using the upper garment Xuan lower garment yellow, but in the official dress in the front of the dress increased the big belt (big belt is made of silk weaving or woof, four inches wide), Jade (jade as raw material, to the ribbon attached to the waist of the pendant). In addition, the color of the clothes also began to have a hierarchical difference. Western Zhou clothing in addition to the unique style of wide clothes and long belts, but also absorbed the northern Xianbei (now Xibo) to the belt hook waist dress color (in the joints of the ribbon, gold, silver, copper or iron and other metals made of fine hooks or buttons). Clothing of the Qin Dynasty During the Qin and Han Dynasties, due to the unification of the country, the style of clothing also tended to be consistent. The Qin Dynasty was the first feudal unified state in Chinese history with a large area and many nationalities. After Qin Wangzheng became the first emperor, he immediately began to implement a series of measures to strengthen the centralization of power, such as the unification of weights and measures, laws and regulations, including the clothing system. However, due to the short period of time during which Qin Shi Huang was in power, the dress system was only the first of its kind and was not yet complete; only the colors of the clothes were unified. Qin Shi Huang was y influenced by the doctrine of yin and yang and the five elements, and believed that when Qin overcame Zhou, it should be water overcame fire, because the Zhou Dynasty was fire over gold, and the color was red, so when Qin overcame Zhou, it was the virtue of water, and the color was revered as black. In this way, in the Qin Dynasty, black is the color of honor, clothing is also black as the fashion color. Qin Dynasty armor battle dress we can see from the unearthed artifacts. In Shaanxi Lintong unearthed terracotta warriors wearing armor should be the most common style of armor in the Qin terracotta warriors, is an ordinary warrior's attire, this type of armor has the following characteristics: the chest of the armor are the upper piece of the pressure of the lower piece of the abdominal armor, are the lower piece of the pressure of the upper piece of the armor, in order to facilitate the activities. From the center line in the middle of the chest and abdomen, all the armor pieces are stacked from the middle to the sides, and the combination of the shoulder armor pieces is the same as that of the abdomen. The armor pieces around the shoulders, abdomen, and under the neck are all connected by an armor band, and all of them have armor spikes, the number of which varies from two or three or four, up to a maximum of six. The length of the armor is equal in front and back, and the hem is generally more rounded. Han Dynasty Clothing China's complete clothing and dress system was established during the Han Dynasty. Dyeing and weaving crafts, embroidery crafts and metal crafts developed faster during the Han Dynasty, which promoted changes in clothing decoration. When the Western Han Dynasty was established, it basically followed the clothing system of the Qin Dynasty. During the Eastern Han Dynasty, black clothes were worn with purple silk decorations. The long crown dress was commonly used in the ritual ceremonies. The queen's ceremonial dress was: the upper garment was in blue color, and the lower garment was in soap color. For the Empress' silk dress, the upper garment was in cyan and the lower garment was in misty color (light yellow). When Emperor Wen of Han was in power, he was more frugal and wore black silk clothes and leather shoes himself. General officials were required to wear zen clothes, also known as godly clothes. During the 200 years of the Western Han Dynasty, the dress system was characterized by a cicada-like crown (hat), red clothes, field-like collars, jade, and red shoes. The Shamrock system was a system where the upper and lower garments were joined and sewn together, and it was extremely common for both men and women to wear the black side of the middle garment for the ceremonial garment and the red side of the middle garment for the pilgrimage garment. The general name of the garment was Zen-yori. Zen clothes are single-layer outer garments. Zen clothes inside the middle garment, deep clothes, its shape and the zen clothes are not very different, only the sleeve shape has changed, all belong to a single layer of cloth and silk clothing. Officials are required to wear black Zen clothes when they go to court. Han style to the lapel classification, can be divided into two kinds: one for the curved train Zen clothes, that is, the lapel is from the collar curved oblique to the armpit; one for the straight train Zen clothes, is the lapel from the collar down to vertical, this kind of Zen clothes, also known as . This kind of Zen clothes is also known as . Qu Train, that is, the popular deep clothes in the Warring States period. It was still used in the Han Dynasty, but in the Eastern Han Dynasty, there were not many men who wore a deep train, and it was usually a straight train, but it could not be used as a formal dress. This type of clothing is both long and wide, from the style of officials and civilians to take basically no difference, but from the raw materials and colors, but can clearly show the different levels. The Han Dynasty court dress color has specific provisions, all year round according to the five time dress, that is, the spring with green; summer with red; seasonal summer with yellow; autumn with white; winter with black. The Han Dynasty clothing has seven characteristics: wearing outerwear, because the collar is large and curved, wearing clothes must be exposed in the collar of the clothes; clothing must be used in white fabric; sleeve width of one foot two inches; shirt sleeveless; wearing fur clothing fur outward; belt is extremely elaborate, the hooks used to make a variety of beasts made of gold, such as praying mantis or pipa-shaped. The image is very vivid and interesting. General length of one and a half to six inches between, is the middle of the garment important decorations. Han belt hooks from the shape, color and craftsmanship have reached a very high level, compared to the Western Zhou and Warring States period, in the design and production are much more exquisite. Therefore, quite popular with men, wearing a lot of people; men to maintain the custom of wearing a knife, but the knife worn by the shape of no edge, so lost the practical value, mainly to show the appearance. The Han dynasty sacrificial clothing extends the big system, follow the ancient rituals to wear a coronet wear ribbons, wear jade. Emperors, ministers, vassals are with large, only in the texture of the tied jade beads or silk rope to distinguish. Empress dowager, empress dowager, public ministers and other wives of the sacrificial service (visit the temple service), pro sericulture clothing, court dress and wedding clothes in the form of deep clothes system. During the Han Dynasty, laboring women always wore a short jacket on top and a long skirt underneath, decorated with a long hanging belt around their knees. The regular dress of working men was a jacket on top, calf-nosed pants underneath, and a cloth skirt around the coat; this attire was the same regardless of whether they were working slaves, serfs, merchants, or scholars. Spring and Autumn and Warring States Clothing As a result of successive wars, various rituals were gradually abolished and not used during the Warring States period. Seven warring states qi, chu, yan, han, zhao, wei, qin vassal states dress, due to terroir, accordingly produce some changes. From the painted wooden figurines in the tombs of Warring States Chu unearthed in Changsha, Hunan Province in recent years, we can see the representative features of the costumes at that time. At this time the dress to the lower body along the wide edge of the winding type of fat clothes. Its winding is to wrap the front lapel to the back body, that is, to take the horizontal line and diagonal line of the space complementary, to obtain the static in the movement and movement in the static decorative effect. Because of the thin material, in order to prevent the thin clothes from wrapping around the body, so the use of flat brocade fabric edging, and then decorated with cloud patterns on the edge, that is, the clothes for the embroidery, brocade for the edge of the utility and aesthetics of the clever combination. These ideas and production methods are fully embodied in the ancient design of wisdom and intelligence. During the Warring States period, men's clothing was not longer than the knee, decorated with continuous rectangular patterns and stripes, which were very similar to the lacquerware side decorations of the time. Men's clothing was based on the basic style of crossed collars, narrow sleeves, and belts around the waist. During the Warring States period, most of the hooks were made of gold, silver, copper, iron and jade, and the hooks were engraved with floral motifs, and sometimes turquoise, to show that they were noble and rich. There is also a kind of gold and silver wrong handmade craft, the appearance of the gold and stone processing, its appearance is more exquisite and luxurious. Iron smelting industry in the Warring States period is relatively prosperous, can be made to hang on the man's copper knife; craft is also superior, such as a twenty-five-centimeter-long small curved knife, the back of the knife is carved with a variety of patterns, then widely loved and worn by the people, called Rong knife. At this time the hanging knife, is not entirely practical, largely decorative instead of practical. Shang Dynasty Clothing Ancient China's Yin and Shang Dynasty began to have a text, then the vast majority of the text is hieroglyphic characters, and even drawings. From the oracle bone inscriptions, we can see the characters of clothes, shoes, yellow clothes, belts, shirts, etc., reflecting the dress and attire. From the unearthed figures, we see jade pendants, jade rings, earrings, necklaces, matrices, combs, as well as silk, linen and bronze ornaments, distinguishing fine ornaments and elaborate clothing, but these were all owned by the nobility. It shows that the clothing and dress system is being further improved. Clothing, clothing, crowns, shoes, hats, socks and other clothing forms continue to appear, indicating that people's understanding of clothing is also increasing, gradually from purely practical function, to the direction of decorative embellishments, so that the ancient dress tends to be complete and unified. Tang Dynasty clothing Tang Dynasty also popular women wearing Hu clothing. Hu clothing is the clothing of the West. Belt form is also y influenced by the hu clothing. Before this, people's waist is decorated with gold, silver, copper and iron, this time the popular tie mincing belt, with gold ornaments on the belt, and buckle with a short and small small belt to tie things with. This belt to take the most flourishing is in the Tang Dynasty, and then extended until the Northern Song Dynasty. After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, the style of women's clothing is becoming wider and wider. To the late Tang period, this feature is more obvious, general women's clothing, sleeve width is often more than four feet. In the late Tang aristocratic dress, generally more important occasions to wear, wearing this dress, hairpin with gold and cui flower inlay, so also known as inlay hairpin ceremonial clothing. After the Tang Emperor Gaozong, purple for the three official colors; light scarlet for the five official colors, dark green for the six official colors, light green for the seven official colors, dark green for the eight official colors, light blue for the nine official colors, yellow for the people outside the palace and the common people color. Tang clothing also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan and obedience to the color greatly absorbed the essence of the Tang costume, the Korean dress also inherited from the form of the strengths of the Tang costume. Tang jacket 襦skirt line is long and soft, very beautiful and comfortable, the material is mainly silk fabric, so its clothing is known as soft and fluffy. Tang clothing itself more categories, good changes, from the shape to the decoration are boldly absorbed foreign dress characteristics, more to Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia and the north and the western region of the foreign dress as a reference to enrich the Tang dress culture, making the Tang dress rich and colorful opulent, unique and strange style, become a Chinese historical dress in a flower, the world's attention. Song Dynasty Clothing The history of the Song Dynasty is characterized by the main trend of civilianization, and the clothing is also simple and plain, reflecting the tendency of the times. Song women's clothing is divided into three kinds: one for the queen, consort to all levels of women used by the public service, one for the common people used by the lucky and bad clothes called dress; one for the daily use of the regular clothes. Song inherited the Tang costume, women's clothing is still to shirt, 襦, jacket, back, skirt, gown, coat, deep clothes. Most of them are straight collar and lapel style, no belt and no buckle, the outer edge of the neck is sewn with a protective collar. The clothes are cut in a way that the sleeves are connected to each other. Some of them are limited to the width of the fabric, so the back of the piece of clothing or sleeve Tsubaki part of the use of seams and appliqués. The single jacket has a short front and a long back, as well as a large sleeveless undershirt. The unearthed clothes were decorated with decorative patterns on the collar, sleeve edge, lapel edge, waist and hem, using gold printing, embroidery and color painting techniques, decorated with flowers such as peonies, camellias, plum blossoms and lilies, etc. The Song Dynasty official system was basically inherited from the Song Dynasty. Song Dynasty official system basically inherited the previous generation, so the official dress in the palace is also similar to the previous generation, divided into court dress, sacrificial service, public service, military service, funeral service and seasonal dress. The court dress is red red dress, wearing white Luo quality in the single, outside the Department of Luo material with a large belt, and scarlet Luo material cover the knee, hanging brocade ribbons, jade, jade bracelet, under the white damask socks and black leather shoes. In addition to this court dress is a unified style, the official position of the high and low is to match the different to distinguish. Mainly in the presence or absence of Zen clothes (in the single) and brocade ribbon pattern on the level of change. Wear court dress must wear Jinxian crown (a lacquer-coated beam crown cap), sable crown (also known as cage scarf, is woven into the shape of rattan silk, the top of the lacquer-coated crown cap), Xiezhi Crown (Jinxian Crown class). Public service that is, the regular dress, also known as from the province of clothing, to curved collar and big sleeves, the waist bundled leather belt as the main form, another narrow-sleeved style also. This type of clothing with color to distinguish between levels. Such as nine officials with green; seven officials with green; five officials with vermilion; three officials with purple. To the Song Yuanfeng years with a slight change in color, more than four with purple; more than six with scarlet; more than nine with green. According to the provisions of the time, taking purple and scarlet (vermilion) clothes, should be equipped with hanging gold and silver decorative fish bag, high and low positions to this thing to clearly distinguish. Clothing is given to the officials according to the season. To the generals of the emperor generals down to the guards of the infantry, give the varieties of robes, jackets, shirts, robes belly, pants and so on. Most of the clothing given is woven with birds and beasts of the brocade pattern. Song dynasty men in addition to the official clothes in the dynasty, the weekdays of the regular clothes are also very distinctive, the regular clothes are also called private clothes. Song officials and the civilian population of Yanju clothing form is not very different. Only in the use of color has more obvious provisions and restrictions. There were the following types of regular clothes in Song: robe with wide sleeves and wide body and narrow sleeves and narrow body, brocade robe for those who had official positions and white cloth robe for those who had no official positions. The jacket and coat were the necessary clothes for the daily wear of the common people. The short brown was a short, coarse cloth garment worn by the poor. The shirt was a man's tunic with a horizontal hemline. Shirt is a long garment for a man with a horizontal hemline. It was the style of coronation, court dress or private house dress. In the Song Dynasty, there was also a way to wear a garment under a shirt. Men also wore long tops with black trimmed collars and yellow shirts. They did not tie their belts when they lived at home, but tied them when they entertained guests. The straightjacket is a long, wide garment. It is called a straightjacket because there is no slit at the hem but there is a center seam at the back. Crane cloak, wide and long, is a kind of fur coat made of crane hair and other bird hair twisted into velvet, which is very expensive. In addition to the Song Dynasty men's clothing, there are cloth shirt and shirt. Inside called sweatshirt, with cross collar and jaw collar form. The texture is very sophisticated, more satin, yarn, Luo. The color is white, green, soap (black), apricot yellow, tea brown and so on. The material of the jacket is cloth, silk, Luo, brocade, silk and leather. The color of the jacket is green, red, date red, dark green, goose yellow and so on. The texture of the nobleman pants is also very delicate, more yarn, Luo, silk, silk, qi, damask, and plain pattern, jacquard, jacquard and other patterns of decoration, pants color to camel yellow, brown, brown as the main color. Yuan Dynasty clothing Yuan Dynasty is the era of national integration in Chinese history, clothing and dress also fully embodies this feature. Yuan Taizu Genghis Khan since 1206 built the capital, after the destruction of Western Xia and Jin, the ethnic composition is mainly Mongolia. Yuan dynasty due to the more acute ethnic conflicts, long in a state of war, textile industry, handicrafts have been greatly damaged. Palace service system for a long time to extend the Song style. Until l321 yuan yingzong period with reference to the ancient system, the development of the son of heaven and the officials of the upper and lower garment tight under the short, and in the waist plus crease accumulation, the back of the shoulder hanging large beads of the quality of the Sun service system, the han people say that a color or quality of the Sun clothing. This is inherited from the Chinese and Mongolian national characteristics of the clothing system. The quality of the Sun clothing to take a wide range of ministers in the palace feast can be worn, musicians and guards also take. The difference between the upper and lower levels of this type of clothing is reflected in the texture of the different thickness. The son of heaven has fifteen levels (to quality grading level〉. Each level of raw materials used and the selection of color is completely uniform, clothes and hats consistent, the overall effect is very good. For example, if the clothes are gold brocade cut velvet, its cap is also inevitably gold brocade warm hat; if the clothes with white powdered leather, its cap must be platinum answer the son of warm hat. The summer clothes of the son of heaven also have fifteen grades, similar to the winter clothes. The winter clothes of the hundred officials have nine grades, and there are fourteen grades in summer, which are likewise distinguished by texture and color. Bishang and Bijia were also regular garments. Than the shoulder is a kind of lined with a slightly longer than the waistcoat leather, the yuan dynasty monks called the loop son of the answer to the hu. Than the armor is easy to ride the clothes, no collar, no sleeves, short in front of the back of the long, connected to the loop of the plainclothes. Yuan dynasty men's public service more with the Han custom, the outside of the regular clothes, cover a short-sleeved shirt, women also have this custom (called 襦裙半臂). Yuan dynasty women's clothing is divided into two styles of nobles and commoners. Nobles are mostly Mongols, leather jacket and hat for the national costume, ermine and sheepskin clothing is more widely available, the style is more broad robe, narrow cuffs, sleeve body wide fat, due to the clothes long trailing ground, the noble lady out of the line of sight, there must be a slave girl to pull. This robe style in the shoulder do have a cloud shoulder, the so-called gold embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel, very beautiful. As a dress robe, fabric texture is very exquisite, using large red woven gold, brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. At that time the most popular taking color to red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple, gold and so on. Yuan Dynasty civilian women wore Han Chinese jacket, half-arms were also quite popular, the look of Han Chinese clothes often appeared in the palace dance accompanist, and the narrow-sleeved shirts and hat style of the Tang Dynasty were also preserved. In addition to the influence of neighboring Goryeo, the capital of the aristocratic consorts also have the custom of imitating Goryeo women's clothing. Clothing in the Ming Dynasty There were many new changes in clothing in the Ming Dynasty, and the most prominent feature was the replacement of the thousands of years of belt knots with buttons on the front lapel. However, buttons did not begin in the Ming Dynasty, as buttons were seen on the waistband of braided jackets from the Yuan Dynasty. The use of buttons is also a change, reflecting the progress of the times. In addition, the prevalence of science also affects the style of clothing to a certain extent. Compared with the Tang Dynasty, the proportion of the dress is obviously inverted, from the short top to the long bottom, gradually lengthening the top, shortening the length of the skirt. Collar also metamorphosed from the Song Dynasty's collar to a round collar. Ming Dynasty women's blouse is a three-necked narrow-sleeved, three-foot-long body, skirt two or three inches. At that time, Yangzhou popular a new style: women's shirt length of two feet eight inches, sleeve width of one foot two inches, the outer sleeve set brocade embroidery, winter set sable fox skin. Skirts in the early years of the Ming Dynasty with the color tends to be light. Skirt pleats are very prevalent, there are fine pleats, there are also large pleats. Pleated decoration is very elaborate. There is a kind of skirt called color stripes, each selected a color satin, each color satin embroidered with bird and flower decorations, with the edge of the band inlaid with gold thread can become an independent strip, will be a number of such a variety of colorful strips put together in the waistband, it has become a colorful stripes fluttering skirt, so the name of phoenix-tailed skirt. Some will also be a piece of satin with hand-made fine pleated pattern, named pleated skirt, a twenty-four pleated skirt named jade skirt. Ming Dynasty, there is a special style of cape, due to its shape as beautiful as the color of the sun, so named Xiapi. This cape appeared in the period of the North and South Dynasties, the Sui and Tang dynasties to get this name. To the Song Dynasty it will be included in the ranks of the dress. The Ming Dynasty to take this type of more common, it is shaped like a long colorful tapestry, each cape width of three inches and two minutes, the length of five feet and seven inches, when taking around the neck, hanging in front of the chest, due to the lower end of the pendant hanging with gold or jade, and therefore more and more appear noble. There is a kind of collarless lapel vest from the Yuan Dynasty, also known as than the armor, is the court of the queen's special dress. Later, it was gradually introduced to the people, expanding the scope of consumption. Than armor prevalent in the middle of the Ming Dynasty, mainly by young women's preference. From the form of the half-arm with the Sui and Tang dynasties have a relationship, and later appeared in the Qing dynasty vest, is the deformation of this than armor. Another feature of Ming-style clothing is the lapel on the Peijia ornaments, and very eye-catching. Are some gold, beads, jade and other materials made of a variety of ornaments. Which hangs in front of the chest is called falling collar; tied in front of the lapel is called the seven things; walk up and down the road with a sound is called forbidden step, these ornaments are collectively known as miscellaneous Pei. There is a special kind of jewelry, is in a gold chain, connected to the ring hanging four small objects: tweezers, toothpicks, ear diggers and knives, are some of the women's life supplies. Ming Dynasty men's clothing to the square scarf round neck as a representative form, Confucian students with the shirt and today's stage on the Beijing opera scholar's clothing is very similar. Characterized by wide sleeves, soap (black) color edge, green round neck, soap tapestry soft scarf hanging belt. The official dress is a cloud satin round neck robe, plus another cloud satin jacket wear. This robe is one inch from the ground, sleeve length over the hand, sleeve Chun (refers to the sleeve body) is one foot wide, cuffs nine inches wide. Shui Tian clothes is the general women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty, is a colorful pieces of brocade material patchwork sewing made of clothing, similar to the robe worn by monks, because the whole piece of clothing fabric color interlaced with each other in the shape of a paddy field and the name. It has the special effect that other costumes cannot have, simple and chic, so it won the general favorite among the women in Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is said that some people used this method to make clothes in Tang Dynasty. The characteristics of Han Clothing "Han Clothing as an independent clothing system, in the historical inheritance and development, the formation of a unique cultural background and national appearance, that has formed a distinctive style characteristics, and clearly different from other ethnic groups in China, and the world of any ethnic group's traditional clothing, more with modern clothing in the system of style has a qualitatively different. Han clothing is profound and profound. Because of its long history, wide range of application areas, and in the continuous innovation and integration of development and evolution, making it difficult for people with less research on Chinese dress to grasp, and as a large dress system, can not only be based on the appearance of the simple system to define the Han Chinese dress, but should be the dominant style for the definition of the standard. Therefore, the definition standard of Hanfu can be expressed in the following words: "Dating back to Yanhuang, down to Song and Ming, Han (pre-Qin period for the Huaxia) people wore clothing based on the natural development and evolution of a series of dresses formed on the basis of a clearly unique style of the collection." The definition of hanfu, the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people, is based on the following three considerations: First, the ethnicity of hanfu, i.e., hanfu is the dress of the Han Chinese people. Firstly, the national character of hanfu, i.e., hanfu is the dress of the Han people. Ethnicity is a whole concept, so the costume of Hu people worn by a Han person cannot be called the traditional costume of Han people. Secondly: the tradition of Hanfu development, and the tradition must be divided into two aspects, i.e. inheritance and unity. The inheritance of Hanbok is shown in the fact that the origin of Hanbok can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor in the ancient times of China, and it has been retaining the style of inheritance and continuous development and evolution. The unity of Hanfu is shown in the period from the Yellow Emperor to the Song and Ming Dynasties, in the vast land of China, in the time span of nearly 5,000 years, and millions of square kilometers of spatial breadth, all the Han Chinese clothing in the mainstream of its own **** the same characteristics. That is, the right obeisance, big sleeves, deep clothes as a typical representative. Third: the naturalness of the development of Chinese clothing, that is, non-external force under the compulsion of the Han people consciously and voluntarily, usually not easy for people to notice the development of the nature of the obvious, which is also the general things or cultural development of the conventional law. The naturalness of the development of Chinese clothing, but also the basis of the inheritance of the traditional clothing of a nation, that is, a thing or culture, in its own normal trajectory of development under the direction of the evolution of the legitimate development. Its direction, can be traced forward to its source through the general law, can also be predicted backward to its development direction.
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