Problems related to sewing technology

Hand Needle Sewing China's hand needle sewing technology is an ancient traditional sewing technology with a long history, and its exquisite technology is well-known at home and abroad. Hand needle sewing tools are simple, convenient, practical and widely used. The needle number is 1- 12, which indicates different needle thickness and length. It can be used for canvas products, buttonholes, shoulder pads, general wool interlining, general thin materials and silk. Let's first introduce the basic stitches of hand sewing, the common use of various stitches, tapping, sewing, keyhole and other basic stitches and their applications. 1. How to use thimble 1? The thimble is also called a needle hoop. The hole in the thimble should be deep, otherwise it will slip when sewing thick hard cloth. When using thimbles, generally wear thimbles, especially when the seams are hard and thick. 2. The correct needle holding posture should be that the right thumb and forefinger hold the iron bar, the exposed part of the needle tip accounts for about one-third of the length of the whole hand needle, and the needle tail is close to the thimble. 3. The thread thickness is appropriate. Pinch the needle with your left hand and hold the thread with your right hand. The thread should not be too long. Gently thread the thread into the pinhole. If the thread has burrs, you can twist the thread or cut it flat. One end of the suture should be tied with a fast knot. When sewing, the knot is left at the starting point of the stitch to prevent the seam from falling off. The way to tie the knot is to hold one end of the thread with the index finger and thumb of the left hand, wrap the thread around the index finger, and then twist the thread forward and the index finger backward. When the thread turns into a circle, hold the coil with your index finger and thumb and tighten the thread. 5. When sewing cloth by hand, the thumb of the left hand is on it, and the front side of the cloth to be sewn is held to the left; The ring finger of the right hand is downward, the thumb and forefinger hold the needle bar, the middle finger pushes the needle tail to feed the needle, and the ring finger and the little finger hold the back end of the cloth up and down to the right respectively. In this way, the cloth is controlled between the two hands, and it is easy to grasp the direction when inserting the needle. According to the speed of needle insertion, the left and right hands should coordinate well and slowly put the cloth forward. 6. Knot, that is, after sewing, tie the thread at the sewing end to prevent the thread from dropping. Wind the thread on the needle 1-3 times from the left hand, press the needle and thread with the thumb of the left hand, and draw the needle with the right hand to tighten the knot. Second, there are many basic stitches in hand sewing. In the general garment production process, different sewing methods are adopted according to different parts and needs to ensure the quality and effect of hand sewing. It is also called "attack needle". It is the most basic stitch method for hand sewing. 50000.0000006660 1 During operation, the hand stitch moves forward continuously and evenly from right to left according to the specified sewing line. In the process of needle insertion, the thumb and forefinger of the left hand are kept at the distance from the needle tip 1 ~ 2 needles, and the left hand moves backwards with the needle insertion. During operation, one needle can be used, and the wire can be pulled once after multiple needles. Used to sew the folded parts of clothes together, with obvious stitches exposed on the front. It is mostly used for welting cuffs, hems and trouser legs of woolen garments, and sewing in general dark places. The operation method of sewing needle is as follows: first, fold the raw edge of cloth back by 0.5 cm ~ 0.7 cm, and then fold the welt width. The needle sews obliquely from outside to inside and from right to left. Generally, at the position where the needle is exposed from the upper layer, move it forward by 0.3 cm (the needle does not penetrate the cloth) and sew it into the upper layer by 0.2 cm, so that the two can be stitched. 3. Triangular needle Triangular needle, also known as flower tension needle and cucumber rack, is mainly used to fix garment welt, especially welt cloth, such as trousers welt and jacket cuff welt. When operating, from left to right, one needle goes up and one needle goes down. 4. Back stitches, also known as crochet and reverse crochet, are often used in the parts where clothes are often stressed, such as the front and rear crotch seams of pants and the armholes of coats, and are especially suitable for sewing elastic fabrics. When sewing, you can sew one needle forward from right to left and then return it, or you can sew one needle from left to right and then return it. 5. Sew the whole set of stitches by hand stitch by stitch. It is an indispensable method in garment processing. The main operation steps of buttonhole locking are: 1) Mark the buttonhole position on the cloth. The size of the buttonhole is approximately equal to the diameter plus the thickness of the button. Mark, cut, start and lock the corner and buttonhole tail 2) Carefully cut the cloth with the tip of scissors according to the marked chalk line. You can also do this to make the buttonhole more beautiful. 3) Pinch the tail of the buttonhole with your left hand, usually clockwise. The first stitch hides the knot between two layers of cloth and stitches it from the fundus. Don't pull out the needle yet, wrap the thread at the end of the needle around the needle from bottom to top with your right hand, and then pull the needle to the upper right to make the knot close to the inner edge of the buttonhole. 4) Lock the angle. The locking needle and cable should be aligned with the top of the eye and radiate. 5) After a week of keyhole tail locking, the thread should pass through the initial thread hole, then wrap the thread twice, draw out the needle from the middle, insert the tail, tie the knot and introduce the cloth. 6. Buttons are usually divided into practical buttons and decorative buttons. Generally, there are four-eye buttons, two-eye buttons and one-eye buttons on the back. After the four-eye button is nailed, stick the front button. After the eyes are fastened, they are in a "one" shape; At first glance, there is no stitch or thread on the front of the hidden button. It is wise to nail buttons with double thread. After the end of the thread is knotted, the needle is inserted downward from the front of the cloth, leaving the knot on the surface and covering it with buttons. Then insert the needle from the bottom of the cloth to the top and through the buttonhole, then insert the needle downward from the buttonhole adjacent to or opposite to the front of the button, and repeat the sewing for 3-4 times. When buttoning, there should be a certain gap between the button and the cloth, and the buttonhole should be entangled. The length of the buttonhole is determined by the thickness of the cloth. The winding method of the buttonhole is: leave the buttonhole between the button and the cloth, and then wrap the buttonhole with thread, usually 4-5 times. Pull in the material interlayer and cut off the excess thread. The decorative buckle only plays a decorative role, so the thread should be tightened and does not need to be wrapped around the buckle foot. There are many ways to sew, such as patching, padding, embroidery and darning. The more common and simple methods are patching and filling. Patch is a repair method for large-area damage of clothes. When mending, use cloth with the same color as clothes, similar material and slightly larger than the damaged area, cut into regular shapes and cover the damaged parts. First, fix the patched cloth with the fixed needle method, then refract the surrounding cloth edges inward, sew the edges with the back needle or sewing needle, and remove the tension line. Patches are suitable for sewing small pieces of rags. If there is a triangular cut in the clothes, you can put a cloth with a larger color and area than the damaged part under the cut, fix the position with a tension line, then tie the cut firmly with four twists, turn the cloth upside down and sew it with an open needle method. If the patched clothes are plaid or striped, pay attention to the stripes. In this way, the patched clothes are neat and beautiful, and it is not easy to see flaws. Third, the derivation of hand embroidery needle method When it comes to hand embroidery, many people will immediately associate it with embroidery needle, embroidery thread, embroidery tension, superb embroidery skills, and especially precious time consumption. Actually, we don't have embroidery tension. We only use ordinary needles and fine yarns of various colors to develop the hand sewing method we have learned, and we can decorate our lives in a very short time. Here are only a few simple and applicable hand embroidery stitches, especially buckles. Just a few stitches can make your sewing products icing on the cake. 1. The thread-type needle's needle-taking-off surface goes back, the needle distance is equal, and the thread is broken, that is, the tapping needle in hand sewing. The cutting surface of the return needle is backward, backward, backward and backward, and the needle eyes are connected in a continuous line. Double-thread stitch face back, up and down, needle connection, eye to eye. Facing the dorsal circulation (1/3— 1/4), the direction of the line is wrong, and the needle is close to the line. When spinning needles, draw the needle entry point first, and the thread is wound around the eye of the needle, and the needle entry and exit are almost perpendicular to the direction. Slub needle is similar to spinning needle, but the difference is that the needle enters from the outside of the coil and exits from the inside of the coil. 2. The length of the random needle is the same. The density is uniform and the direction is disordered. The coiled needles are from short to long, from dense to sparse, and spirally arranged from inside to outside. Only a few strands of cloth are selected for each needle. After the beading needle is taken out, wrap the thread around the needle for 2-3 times, then pull the root to loosen the knot, and then thread the needle into the loose knot to the back of the cloth. 3. The fastening (sheath) needle is wound on the branch and the sub-needle is pulled out. Start with the thread in the eye of the needle, wrap it around the needle several times, straighten it, hold it down, carefully pull out the needle, pull the thread and enter the eye of the needle. The leaf needle first draws the outline of the leaf and enters and exits the eye of the needle; First arc, then pin, and then pin to adjust the curvature of arc. Bird's eye needle with leaf needle draws a pattern first, and enters and exits the eye of the needle. The distance between the needle eye and the needle eye is very small, and the length and tightness of the thrown thread sleeve should be consistent. Tighten the threaded sleeve first, and then tighten the needle. Feather needles are interlocked to form a line or piece, and the eye of the needle and the eye of the needle on the same line are arranged in a straight line at equal distance, so you can draw first. The wheel needle is round, and the needle method is similar to that of the keyhole needle. After the needle is inserted, it is rotated counterclockwise. Be careful with the thread in the pull ring. Double-chain knitting needles are close to the eyes, interlocking, with the same needle distance, and the last needle is buckled. Several isosceles triangles are interlocked at the vertex of each triangle to start sewing, and the right corner is hooked up, which is the beginning of the next vertex. The above are the technical points of hand sewing. If you master these skills, you can make a work and the taste of needlework will come out. Sewing is the main content of this course. You can buy a book "How to Learn to Sew". Learning order:

First, practice basic skills.

Basic skills include mastering sewing machine, making some common sewing patterns, and knowing some basic fabric and ironing knowledge.

It doesn't take much time to practice basic skills, even for a brand-new novice, a week or so is enough. If you work hard, it will take a day or two.

Second, find some simple styles to do and increase self-confidence.

Please pay special attention to the following points:

1, long suture, constantly adjust the upper and lower cutting pieces when turning, and strive to be consistent.

2, suture width should be consistent.

3. It's best to make a fabric that is inelastic, neither thick nor thin, and is not easy to deform.

Where the seam is too thick, it is not easy for the car to pass. You can trim it: the layers are not neatly trimmed, preferably trapezoidal. It won't hang up suddenly when sewing, and it's easy to flatten.

5, the position of the hem is easy to distort, pay attention to pulling the fabric when driving.

6. How to make uneven clothes in some parts is probably not a sewing problem, but related to cutting and fabric performance. Don't force it.

7. Fabrics that are too soft can be ironed with non-woven lining before turning over (without affecting the appearance). The point is to find out for yourself.