Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Appreciation of printing and dyeing

Appreciation of printing and dyeing

China's ancient printing and dyeing is not only colorful, colorful, and good color fastness, not easy to fade. In ancient times, green (i.e. blue), red, yellow, white and black were called five colors, which are also the original color, the original color. The original color mixed to get many times color such as green, purple, pink and other colors, also known as inter-color. Dye sources are divided into two categories: mineral pigments and vegetable dyes. Mineral pigments for dyeing red include hematite and cinnabar. As early as in the period of the caveman that used hematite, but because it is dark red, so later used for prisoners to dress color. Cinnabar, also known as dansha, bright color, more than four thousand years ago in Qinghai Liuwan graveyard, a male body under a sprinkle of cinnabar. Yellow has stone yellow (arsenic sulfide) and yellow Dan (lead oxide), green for natural copper ore, white for lead powder and white mica, black for carbon black. Plant dyes in the red can be extracted from the cress, safflower, sufon wood, yellow from gardenia, turmeric, acacia flowers, green is made of indigo using bluegrass, so there is a "green from the blue and blue in the blue," the famous saying passed on. The black color is mainly obtained from walnut tree, persimmon tree, oak tree and so on. When dyed with a certain dye, people found: every time the fabric is dipped and dyed, the color will deepen a little. As a result, the dyeing process has developed from simple dip-dyeing to over-dyeing and mordanting. Xinjiang Turpan Tang tomb unearthed silk fabrics have twenty-four colors, of which only red has silver red, water red, scarlet, reddish red, reddish purple. There are also as many as six colors of yellow. On the basis of the original color overdyeing, the technique of overdyeing with different dyes also appeared, making the fabrics more colorful. To the Qing Dynasty, the chromatogram and color name of the dyeing, from the natural color of the vertical and horizontal coordination development to hundreds of kinds of. Mordanting appeared as early as the Spring and Autumn Period, i.e. the use of mordant in dyeing. If you use vegetable dyes to dye black, add a little alum, you can improve color fastness. In the dyeing method, silk, yarn and cotton can be woven before dyeing. And brocade, embroidery, etc. need to dye the silk thread before weaving. China's ancient printed fabrics were commonly known as "val", so the printing and dyeing process is divided into several types of val, val and twisted val. ①Waxed val, also known as waxed val, is batik. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, the southwestern ethnic minorities first mastered the technique of preventing dyeing with wax. It is to use melted wax to draw a pattern on the fabric, and then into the dyeing, cooking out the wax, showing the white flowers on the ground. Due to the wax condensation contraction or to be rubbed, resulting in many cracks, into the dye, the color material penetrates into the cracks, the finished product often appears on the pattern of a trace of irregular texture, forming a unique decorative effect, the method of batik, is still in use today. ② Clip Val. Qin and Han Dynasty has been, Sheng Tang extremely popular. It is the use of two carved and skeletonized the same pattern of the flower plate, the cloth and silk in the middle, in the openwork at the dyeing, become a flower pattern. Its pattern is characterized by the symmetry of the pattern, with the beauty of balanced regularity. Sandwich val can be dyed in two or three colors. ③Twisted Val. It is a printing and dyeing method commonly used by the folk. Usually can be divided into two kinds: one is to use the line to tie the cloth into a variety of patterns, nailed tightly into the dye, nailed part can not be dyed, the formation of color ground white flower pattern, with the effect of halo dyeing. The other is to tie the grain in the fabric, and then into the dyeing, forming a variety of patterns. In addition to the above main printing and dyeing methods, the Spring and Autumn and Warring States also appeared in the letterpress printing process. To 1834 before the invention of the French Perot printing machine, China has always had the world's most developed hand printing and dyeing technology.