Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Names of ancient textiles and their corresponding grades
Names of ancient textiles and their corresponding grades
The first grade, brocade: silk textile fabric, using re-woven, colorful yarn-dyed jacquard silk fabric woven with multi-color silk thread. Brocade is a well-known jacquard silk. In ancient times, there was a saying that "weaving for writing is as valuable as gold". There are Shu brocade, Song brocade and Yun brocade.
The second grade, twill: silkworm self-weaving; Silk fabrics with twill weave on the surface are light and thin, with twill weave or twill change weave. The surface of the early fabric was a mountain-like twill, which "looked like ice", so it was called twill.
The third grade, silk: silk and linen blended fabric; Use plain or textured silk fabrics with tight warp and weft interweaving. Silk is the general name of silk products. It is characterized by crisp and delicate silk surface and smooth feel. Silk fabrics without other obvious features can be called silk.
The fourth grade, satin: fine linen textile fabric; Silk fabric with smooth, bright and fine appearance adopts satin weave or satin change weave.
Grade 5, linen: coarse linen textile fabric; Flax is a kind of cloth made of flax, ramie, jute, sisal, banana and other hemp plant fibers. Products made of flax are breathable, refreshing, soft, comfortable, washable, sun-resistant, antibacterial and bacteriostatic.
Grade 6, coarse cloth: cotton silk woven fabric; Coarse cloth, also known as "homespun", is made of pure cotton by simple working people and carefully woven with primitive spinning wheels and wooden looms. It has a history of thousands of years in China.
Extended data:
China ancient textile also experienced a long and glorious history. Raw hemp, plain cotton and luxury silk appeared in black and pink one by one, and performed a brilliant scene. From Lei Zu, the legendary originator of sericulture and silk picking, to Ma Jun, who improved textile machinery, to Huang Daopo, a peasant woman who spread cotton spinning technology, and then to the masterpiece Tiangong Wu Kai, the ancient textile history of China has been rewritten and made brilliant achievements.
Different from the simple history of traditional farm tools, water conservancy benefiting the people and animal husbandry with six animals, the history of ancient textiles in China is more colorful, colorful and warm.
Primitive ancestors learned how to weave hemp fibers, stone knives, bone cones and so on. From the initial hanging finger, that is, the earliest textile prototype.
With the formation of primitive textile prototype, textile tools came into being. Many stone tools, pottery, wooden and bone primitive textile tools and wooden loom parts have been unearthed at Hemudu site in Yuyao, Zhejiang Province.
Some bronzes unearthed in Xia and Shang dynasties have obvious traces of fabrics, and a small amount of clothing fragments have also been unearthed. These traces and objects show that the raw materials of textile fibers in this period were mainly silk and hemp. Hemp, ramie and kudzu root have become the main plant fiber raw materials.
Exquisite silk was born in the middle and late Neolithic Age. The crimson color of Yangshao culture unearthed in Qingtai Village of Xingyang and the silks, ribbons and silk threads unearthed in Qianshangyang, Xing Wu are the most convincing material evidence. Since then, indoor sericulture has increased the output and quality of silk, as well as the quantity and variety of silk, thus establishing the dominant position of silk products in the textile history of China.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, silk reeling tools also developed from the initial manual silk reeling to manual silk reeling vehicles and pedal silk reeling vehicles. Ma Jun, a famous mechanical engineer in the Three Kingdoms period, after ChenBaoGuang in the Western Han Dynasty, made a major reform on jacquard loom again, changing 50 Nie (niè) to 12 Nie, which became another great innovation in the history of textile science and technology in China and improved the production capacity.
During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, sericulture silk was impacted by cotton, but the sericulture production in Hangjiahu area was relatively developed. Archaeological findings have proved that the textile processing and pattern style of silk weaving, printing and dyeing (kè) embroidery in Ming and Qing Dynasties were constantly innovated compared with the previous generation.
Cotton introduced into China in Han Dynasty was still confined to some remote areas in southwest and south in Song Dynasty. During the alternation of Song and Yuan Dynasties, cotton production spread rapidly in the mainland and became the most basic material for people after Yuan and Ming Dynasties. With the popularization of cotton planting, China's cotton textile technology has been further developed.
Cotton textile first appeared in Yunnan and Hainan Island, where ethnic minorities have accumulated a set of cotton textile processing technology for a long time. At the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Daopo introduced the advanced cotton textile technology learned from Hainan Li nationality into the mainland, improved the tools of rolling, elastic, spinning and weaving, and greatly improved the spinning efficiency.
In addition, she also knitted the famous black mud quilt with the techniques of wrong yarn, color matching and heddle, which promoted the development of cotton textile technology and cotton textile industry in Songjiang, making Songjiang once the center of cotton textile industry in China. It can be seen that Huang Daopo's influence on the history of cotton textile development in China is decisive and far-reaching.
Baidu encyclopedia-textile
National Agricultural Museum-Ancient Textile and Ancient Achievements
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