Understand the progress of kimono

When Japanese women wear kimonos, they should wrap something on their backs that looks like a baby worn by women in small backpack and southern China. In fact, it is neither small backpack nor a baby. The Japanese call it Dai. Wearing a belt can prevent the kimono from being exhibited, show the beauty of the body, and also play a decorative role, making the gorgeous kimono more colorful.

According to textual research, the systems and meanings of "new" and "Dai" in ancient Japan are different. The etymology of "new" is "sacred dress", and "sacred" stands for sacred. The skirt is a banner cloth, which is today's skirt. Tying a new button not only combines the new button with the human heart, but also combines man with God. If in ancient times, belts focused on decoration, while belts focused on faith, then, in the Nara era, China's women's Tang clothes were introduced to Japan, and women began to wear dresses that were separated from top to bottom. After that, the belt began to be tied in the clothes, which played the role of a belt, not to mention a belt. After the Kamakura era, narrow-sleeved casual clothes (small sleeve) similar to modern kimono became popular, and the buttons were changed from the inside out, which restored the role of the belt and developed into a beautiful belt today.

There are different knots on the back of the Japanese belt, which symbolize different meanings and express my beliefs and prayers. According to statistics, there are 289 kinds of common knots in Japan. The belt, usually 3-4 meters long, needs to be wrapped around the waist for three or four times. What deserves special introduction is a kind of "Nagoya Belt" in the daily department. This kind of bandwidth is 30 cm and 3.6 meters long. It is said that in the Taoshan era, Japanese women used to wear a thin belt around their waist, but they were not promoted because of their ugly image. When Toyotomi Hideyoshi attacked Korea, he was stationed in Nagoya. At that time, the artists gathered in Nagoya, wearing big bun, small sleeve clothes and green and red cylindrical ribbons woven by China craftsmen, were gorgeous. This fashionable dress immediately spread like wildfire, and this belt is also called "Nagoya belt".

The kimono belt that matches the color, pattern and style of kimono is an indispensable part of traditional Japanese clothing. The Japanese people's attention to kimono belts was recorded as early as "The Story of Genji Red Leaves". In the Tokugawa era, the popular change of kimono belt widened time and narrowed time, which reflected people's aesthetics and social fashion at that time to some extent. Today, the styles and colors of kimono belts can be described as colorful and numerous. However, judging from the use function and users of kimono belts, they can be roughly divided into the following three categories.

Male belt, also called angular belt, refers to the narrow band used by men. Corner belts are usually made of cloth with a width of 23 cm and a length of 380 cm. Specifically, it can be subdivided into double-folded non-stitched tape, double-folded stitched tape, core-filled stitched solar tape and single-layer single tape. The materials used are Hakata fabric, brocade, Grameen fabric, salt-wrasse thick fabric, silk fabric and so on. Among them, Bodo belt is a representative man's kimono belt, which has been famous since ancient times. Common colors of men's belts are brown, smoky gray, navy blue, black and so on. The patterns are mainly warp-knitted geometric patterns and diamond-encrusted stripes in Bodot. The color of this pattern is similar to that of dark fabric. Bodo single-layer belt is made of yarn and nylon fabric, which is used in summer.

There are many kinds of female belts, such as pill belt, towel belt, abdominal belt, bag belt, single belt, bathrobe belt, Nagoya belt, jacket belt, middle belt, eight-foot belt and six-foot belt.

The pill belt is a tubular belt, and the fabric with a width of 60-80 cm and a length of 380 cm is folded in half to fill the core and sewn. The belt is covered with flowers with elegant and luxurious patterns, which are generally used for bridal dresses, black sleeves and visiting dresses.

Scarf belt, also known as old-fashioned meatball belt, is generally about 57 cm wide and the fabric is mostly silk brocade.

Abdominal belt, also known as day and night belt, the lining and fabric are stitched with different textures and colors, and the pattern treatment is generally a printing process.

Bag belt, double-layer tubular belt, universal all year round. The strap is used with the formal suit. According to the different decorative patterns and materials, it can also be subdivided into: all-flower bag, six-flower bag, local flower bag, yarn bag and hug bag.

Single-layer waistband, unlined and filled single-layer kimono waistband. Stripes and sketches are often used to coordinate with the seasonal artistic conception and pay attention to elegant color expression.

The bathrobe belt is narrower than the single belt, with a width of 2 1 cm and a shorter length than the ordinary one.

Nagoya belt, which is produced in Nagoya at the end of Taisho, is rapidly popularized because of its convenient sewing and use. The tail width of Nagoya belt is the same as that of ordinary kimono belt, and the first width is half of the tail width.

The belt under the coat and crotch is 380 cm long. During the Tokugawa period, it was common for women to wear clothes under their tops and tie them under their crotch in Tai O and Daming's mansions.

The middle belt, the eight-foot belt and the six-foot belt are the names of belts with different lengths used by children to express their congratulations when they hold the celebration ceremony of July 5th.

A belt is something that is wrapped around the chest and tied to the back with a belt, pillow, belt and other accessories. Looking back at the history of the belt, it is not much different from the function of the rope. With the development of the times, the role of the belt gradually becomes smaller, becoming a pure ornament, and becoming an indispensable part of the beauty of kimono together with kimono.

The length of the belt has changed greatly with the development of the times. In the early edo period, ribbons were short and thin. According to the document Duyu, in the Kuanyong period, "the core was lined with paper about two inches long", and the Anqing edition of Female Mirror recorded two inches and five minutes. This shows that the width of the belt is about two inches, and gradually develops to the modern width. It is generally believed that the width of modern belts was shaped after Meiji, with a length of 400 cm and a width of 30 cm.

Throughout the kimono as a whole, the belt occupies an extremely important decorative part. This is because, from the perspective of the proportion of human body decoration, people's chest and back are the center of vision. Almost all fashion designers focus on the chest and back as the central part of fashion design. Ichiro Junshima, a famous Japanese fashion designer, made a humorous and philosophical analysis of his works when he gave a speech at China Textile University. This shows how much fashion designers pay attention to the design of a part of the shoulder. The Taigu decorative part of kimono is an example. Kimono, including belt, is a whole. The reality of the belt must also involve the form, color and theme of the kimono, which must be considered as a whole. The decorative position of kimono is basically located at the hem and shoulders, and the decorative position of belt is Taigu on the back and chest and abdomen. The combination of the two forms the whole kimono. From the three-dimensional modeling point of view, after wearing the belt, the outline of the human body has changed, and the female body curve is more beautiful. In addition, according to the figure of Japanese women, the lower limbs are shorter. After tying the Taigu drum, women's hips are raised, and their body center of gravity is raised, thus lengthening their lower limbs and achieving up-and-down balance.