Linzhi traditional clothing

As early as around 1 1 century BC, related tribes, as ancestors of Tibetans, have already formed the costume characteristics of modern Tibetans.

The emergence and development of clothing is closely related to human living environment, climatic conditions, production and lifestyle. Tibet has a vast territory, different geographical environments, complex climatic conditions and distinctive regional characteristics, which constitute a rich and colorful Tibetan costume art.

Tibetans are mainly distributed in Tibet, Qinghai, Sichuan, Gansu and Yunnan provinces. Among them, Tibet is the main settlement of Tibetans. In the long historical development process, Tibet has created colorful costumes and their cultures, which are the concrete manifestations of national traditional culture, aesthetic consciousness and economic life.

First, the historical textual research of Tibetan costumes

The historical textual research of the oldest Tibetan costume art materials shows that the existing physical materials include "Karuo Site, a Neolithic site excavated in Changdu, Tibet from August 1978 to August 1979. More than 4,600 years ago, a large number of bone cones, bone needles and clothes were unearthed from Karuo Site, and besides animal skins, there were also fabrics made of wild fibers or wool yarns. Unearthed pottery spinning nylon, thread pendants and other objects prove that the production of woolen fabrics has begun, and there are a few simple decorations, such as pendants, bone bamboo shoots, bracelets, necklaces, shells, stone rings, beads and so on, made of stones, jade, bones and shells. Most of these decorations have been carefully polished, smooth and beautiful, which shows that Tibetan ancestors not only mastered the technology of sewing clothes thousands of years ago, but also had a certain aesthetic consciousness. The excavation of Karuo site fills a gap in Tibetan ancient culture and points out an ancient boundary for the development history of Tibetan costumes.

By the time of Tubo, Tibetan costume culture had developed greatly. "Tibetan history records that the costumes of Tubo Zampa were different when celebrating La Tuotuo in the 3rd century. There is a difference in the level of clothing. The headdresses, hats and robes hung on the chests of Tibetan kings and military commanders are different, which distinguishes the level of job price. " At the same time, clothing is also influenced by the style of Central Asia, such as Iran, which can be seen from the clothing of Songzan Gambu. When Princess Wencheng entered Tibet, she brought all kinds of clothing materials and textile technology, which greatly promoted the development of Tibetan costume skills. The clothing materials left behind mainly include Songzan Gambu in King Cave of Potala Palace, Princess Wencheng statue, and Ludongzan clothing in Buhuntu, etc.

Tibet belonged to the central dynasty in the form of the Yuan Dynasty, so it was closely related to the Yuan Dynasty in all aspects of culture, and its costumes were greatly influenced, especially the costumes of the upper class of Tibetans, such as the official's crown "Jiangda" (that is, the round crown) and the housekeeper's "Suoxia" (that is, the flat-topped Mongolian hat).

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the ties between the central government and Tibet were further strengthened, and the textile industry developed greatly. A large number of trade exchanges have promoted the development of clothing.

Second, the characteristics of Tibetan costumes

Tibetans have lived a nomadic life for a long period of time, and their costumes also have the characteristics of nomadic people. Clothing should not only have a strong cold-proof effect, but also have the convenience of heat dissipation, so that their arms can stretch freely to adapt to camping life, and can also be used as bedding and carry daily necessities with them. Clothing is mainly robe-shaped.

1, the basic structure of clothing is fat waist, long sleeves, big chest and right shirt, boots, braided hair and accessories.

2. The basic features are various categories, which can be divided into robes, jackets, waistcoats, belts, hats, boots, bonds and hair accessories.

, jewelry, accessories, etc.

3, styles are divided into: long-sleeved robes, sleeveless robes.

4. Texture is divided into: brocade robe, satin robe, plain sheepskin robe, woolen robe, plain cloth robe, etc.

5. The color features are characterized by strong contrast, such as red and green, white and black, yellow and purple, and the combination of multicolor and gold and silver thread makes the clothing bright and harmonious.

6. This model mainly follows the laws of increasing and parallel.

7. Ornaments are widely used. The main decorative materials are gold and silver, jewelry, ivory, coral and turquoise.

8. Fabric: mainly cotton, ballast, satin, smooth sheepskin, wool, woolen cloth, etc.

9. Apron: Known as "Bangdian" in Tibetan, it is an important part of Tibetan women's clothing and has the function of indicating whether they are married or not. Its shapes are short, long and trapezoidal (northern Tibet), some are matched with wide and strong contrast colors, and some are composed of slender and similar colors with gold and silver threads. Women in each region have different views on the choice of colors and stripes of "Bangdian". There are also regional differences.

10, belts: belts are an indispensable part of Tibetan costumes, some of which are woven with wool fabrics, while others are decorated with precious ornaments such as metals.

1 1, Tibetan boots: Tibetan boots are one of the important features of Tibetan traditional costumes, and the patterns on the boots also have certain customs and norms.

12, short coat: generally worn in Tibetan robes, characterized by long sleeves.

13, Kanjian: Some areas have the habit of wearing Kanjian, and its style also has regional style.

14. Necklace: It is called "Kawu" in Tibetan, and two squares overlap. The material is mainly gold and silver, with turquoise and precious stones inlaid on it. The necklace is made of pearls, corals and dzi beads.

Three. Brief introduction of costumes in various regions of Tibet

Clothing is a kind of material culture, and its emergence and development are closely related to the natural environment, climatic conditions, production methods and lifestyles of human life. Clothing has gender representation, age representation, season representation and festival representation.

Tibet has a vast territory, and its natural conditions vary greatly due to the different geographical environment and climate. In order to adapt to the natural environment, regions living in different climatic conditions must wear different clothes, and each region has distinctive regional costumes, which has become a colorful Tibetan costume art.

The administrative regions of Xizang Autonomous Region include: Lhasa, Shigatse, Linzhi, Shannan, Naqu, Ali and Qamdo. , has jurisdiction over more than 70 counties. Although the costumes in each region have the same characteristics, there are also some differences. They have distinctive regional characteristics in clothing styles, colors, materials, production, wearing and so on, and the clothing styles in different regions are rich.

(1) Lhasa area.

Lhasa clothing is very particular about collocation, with elegant colors and no decoration. Women wear sleeveless robes, which are called "Quba Pumi" in Tibetan, with colored pinstripes and "sticks" around their waists, as well as earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. With the continuous improvement of living standards, the choice of fabrics and colors is very demanding. Choose fabrics with good drape, such as brocade and silk. Harmonious and elegant, wear long-sleeved Tibetan robes every Tibetan New Year or various celebrations, with wool lining and pure wool fabric outside. Tibetan is called "Bazaar" and Tibetan is called "Tsering Golden Basin". Women wear silk shirts, sleeveless satin robes, colored satin or rainbow-patterned "sticks" around their waists, a small colored square towel on their backs, and a triangular bead crown with wings in their hair, which is called "Ba Zhu" or "Moody Ba Zhu" in Tibetan, with "ego" on both sides of their ears and "Gawu" on their chests. In Tibetan New Year and winter, I wear Bazaar and Dai Jinhua fur hats, which is called "Jiase Xia Mo" in Tibetan.

(2) Clothing in Shigatse area.

Shigatse area, known as "Tibet" in history, belongs to post-Tibet. The basic style of clothing is the same as that of Lhasa, but it has its own characteristics in decoration. Men's Tibetan clothes are mainly in black and white. The neckline, cuffs, skirt and hem of robes are inlaid with flowers seven or eight centimeters wide, mainly in cross patterns, wearing gold hats or top hats. Women in Gyangze wear "Balong" on their heads and "Kawu" made of pearls, corals, agates and turquoise on their chests. In addition, the waist hook is one of the most distinctive ornaments in women's clothing in the post-Tibetan period, mostly made of copper and silver. Women in Dingjie County wear necklaces made of silver coins and small round hats decorated with peacock feathers on their chests. Women in Geelong County wear Tibetan robes with sleeves from back to front, and double-layered striped aprons are worn around their waists, with stripes as the main pattern.

Sherpas live in Zhangmu Port in Shigatse, Tangchen District in Ding Jie County and Rong Hai in Dingri County. Sherpas wear simple clothes, while men wear long-sleeved shirts. The outer cover is a short-sleeved shirt with a white skirt eight or nine inches wide. It is called "Boduba" locally, and it is divided into two pieces with cloth. Women's upper body clothes are basically the same as men's, and their shirts are mostly colored. Women's lower body wears pleated dresses or Tibetan robes, and their hair styles are braided, earrings, necklaces and bracelets.

(3) Clothing in Shannan region.

The costumes in Shannan region contain the characteristics of Lhasa and Shigatse. The most distinctive women's clothes are those in Zhazha Township, Cuomei County. Women wear striped hats without tops, dyed and printed sleeveless long-sleeved tops, long-sleeved Tibetan robes and "Songba" embroidered on their feet.

A typical man's costume is A Dai Golden Flower Hat, wearing a black coat, and a white Tibetan robe decorated with "Karoku" stripes.

Women in Shannan also wear a vest called "Xiaxia", which is mostly made of "Bangdian" or "Karoku" or "Heilu", which varies from county to county. For example, the vests made by Jiaxu and Heilu were made by poor counties in Shannan, and Heilu was made by poor counties.

(4) Linzhi area.

Linzhi area is located in the valley area of southern Tibet and Hengduan mountain area, covered with virgin forests. In order to facilitate labor and adapt to natural conditions, both men and women wear Tibetan robes with wide shoulders and sleeveless sleeves, which is called "ancient style". "Ancient body" is generally black with brocade lace, but also made of monkey skin and bear skin. Women don't wear the "national name", wear a silver belt and a silver necklace, and wear a satin round hat. The corner on the side indicates unmarried, and the corner on the back indicates married, while men wear a round satin pointed felt hat.

In Cuona and Medog counties in Linzhi area, there are also Menba and Balu ethnic groups. Menba people are also divided into Medog Menba and Corner Menba, and their costumes are also different.

Medog Menba, a man wearing a red Tibetan robe, trousers and a knife pinned to his waist. A woman has a long vest with no buttons on both sides, and there is a long skirt and a belt inside. Both men and women wear a small hat called "mother-in-law", with a dark body and an orange brim. The gap in front of the brim is naturally open, and several strings of colored bead chains of different sizes are hung between the women's necks.

Men and women in the corner of the door wear long gowns, men wear "antique" coats and trousers, and leather boots with red and black soft soles are sewn on their feet, while women wear a white apron with thin piping and like to wear many strings of colored beads necklaces and silver ornaments.

Balu people: Men wear long-sleeved robes with colored stripes on their sleeves, a leather or felt vest and a belt around their waist. The belt is inlaid with convex silver ornaments, shells and a string of silver chains, and several strings of silver beads are dropped on both sides of the belt. Wear silver ornaments from the neckline to the earlobe, boots on your feet and a bearskin hat. Its length is like long black hair hanging over their shoulders, with a long sword and a waist knife hanging around their waist. Women wear linen-woven narrow-sleeved T-shirts and striped skirts over their knees. Most of their hairstyles are covered and decorated. There are more than ten beads hanging around the neck, big earrings hanging on the ears, and copper ornaments, silver ornaments, shells, jade and other things hanging around the waist. Different sizes and lengths, colorful, forming a unique style.

There are also Bo people in Chayu County, Linzhi area. Women wear black long-sleeved coats and self-woven colorful striped skirts. Their hair styles are curly, with solitary silver pieces and silver chains on their heads, silver chains and silver coin necklaces hanging around their necks, silver coin chains hanging obliquely on their shoulders, earrings in the shape of big silver horns, and bracelets carved in thick silver. The man's head was wrapped in white cloth, with a black ballast, a sleeveless vest with a chicken heart collar, white linen woven trousers, a red shuttlecock from waist to knee, a silver chain and pearls hanging around his neck, a chain made of silver coins and knives hanging obliquely on his shoulder, and a silver bracelet in his hand.

(5) Clothing in Naqu area.

Naqu area is located in northern Tibet, with a cold climate and a long ice and snow period in a year. Local men's and women's clothing is mainly Tibetan robes, covered with naked sheepskin, which is both warm and waterproof. In recent years, due to the continuous improvement of living standards, people gradually pay attention to the beauty and value of clothing. A man with wide otter skin or tiger skin, wearing a long-sleeved shirt with a stand-up collar and a brocade vest, and a Tibetan robe on his robe. Their hair is braided into a thick braid with red and black silk red, and silver carved fingers or coral beads are worn on the braid, showing a special style and decorated with Tibetan knives, bullets, flints, ironware, wallets and other ornaments. Women's Tibetan robes are also decorated with red, green and blue velveteen with a width of about 10 cm, with black velvet edging. Most headdresses are braided hair, which is decorated with turquoise, coral, shells and silver coins. They like to cover their faces with colorful headscarves, wear hats or sheepskin hats, hang milk hooks, milk spoons, needle boxes, fire knives and so on. Around their waists. In Tibetan, the milk hook "Xue Ji" is a kind of milking device for women. When milking, it is used to hang the milk bucket, and the upper end of the hook is tied to the waist with a belt. Because of various carvings and noble inlays such as agate and turquoise, it has become an indispensable ornament for women in northern Tibet, and it is very beautiful and unique to wear. It is a "country code", in addition to the "country code" of rainbow stripes, there are also hand-made "country codes" with national characteristics.

(6) Clothing in Qamdo area.

Qamdo area is located in the eastern part of Tibet, which is called "Kangqu" in history, and the Tibetans here are also called Kangba people. Clothing is characterized by heavy luxury and numerous decorations. Men's and women's clothing is similar to that in Naqu area. The man's Tibetan robe is inlaid with wide brocade and otter skin, tiger skin and leopard skin, wearing a fox fur hat, braiding his hair with black and red silk thread, wearing many strings of coral beads and Buddha boxes on his chest, slung a broadsword on his waist cloth, and wearing leather boots and white cloth pants. The blouse has long sleeves and numerous braids. They are covered with coral turquoise and have large beeswax coral necklaces.

(7) clothing in Ali area.

Ali region is located in the west of Tibet, and its most distinctive costumes still retain the characteristics of the Tubo period. The costumes in Pulan County are the most representative. Women wear Tibetan robes and fabrics, with a brocade cloak behind them, white sheepskin inside, narrow otter skin on the side and a beaded crown on their heads. A row of silver chains hung on his forehead covered his face, and a crescent-shaped ornament similar to a beaded crown with turquoise and pearls hung on his right shoulder, with a full chest. In particular, the headdress style is different from other regions, and it is even more luxurious.

Fourthly, the future development of Tibetan costumes.

Tibetan costumes are produced, developed and changed in people's long-term life and labor. With the reform and opening up, the continuous development of economy, the continuous improvement of material life and the increase of cultural exchanges, Tibetan people not only mainly wear traditional clothes, but also tend to wear casual clothes, suits, jeans and skirts. , and attaches great importance to the brand. At the same time, national costumes have been greatly reformed and improved in style and color. For example, women's clothing has changed from a more complicated traditional dress to a more convenient dress, paying attention to curves and beautiful waist. Fabric not only tends to be woven, but also uses a lot of fine materials at home and abroad such as brocade and silk. Gorgeous colors and unique shapes show a beautiful landscape for domestic and foreign tourists coming to Tibet.

Many fashion designers at home and abroad take some characteristics of Tibetan costumes as inspiration for their creation and display them in their own works. Tibetan costumes have unique national style and artistic characteristics, and are a wonderful flower in the national costume art garden of the motherland. With the development of society and the promotion of national culture, Tibetan costumes will certainly develop better, and their unique charm will shine even more when they go abroad and go to the world!

Since the democratic reform, with the great development of Tibet's economy and society and the remarkable improvement of people's living standards, the styles, colors and quality of Tibetan national costumes have undergone gratifying changes, tending to be simple, comfortable and beautiful, which can better express human body lines and aesthetic tastes. Rich and selective modern Tibetan costumes are dressing up the happy life of people of all ethnic groups in today's autonomous region.

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