Ancient Consort Costume Makeup Works Name

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Repost: Ancient Harem Cosmetics

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Ancient Women's "Cosmetics"

(1)Flower Tin

This kind of makeup is also known as flower child, face flower, applique. also known as flower child, face flower, applique, is a small decoration pasted between the eyebrows and face.

On the origin of the flower tin, according to the Song Gao Cheng "Things Chronicle Hou" cited "miscellaneous five lines of the book," said: the Southern Dynasties, "Song Emperor Shouyang Princess, people lying under the eaves of the Palace of Zhang, plum blossom fall forehead, into five out of the flower, whisked away, washed by the three days is down, the courtesans strange, competing for the effect of the". For this reason, called "plum blossom makeup" or "Shouyang makeup".

To the Song Dynasty, still popular plum blossom makeup, Wang Zao in the "drunken flowers in the Prancer" in chanting: "boat curtain gap, the beauty of the half exposed plum makeup, green clouds reflecting the flowers such as carving."

Paste flower tin into the wind is also in the Tang Dynasty. Tin is made of what? Ancient times to do flower inlay material is very rich, with gold foil cut into, and with paper, fish scales, tea oil flower cake made of, the most interesting is that even dragonfly wings can be used to do flower inlay! Such as the Song Tao Valley, "Weeping Record" said: "After the Tang Palace or net to get dragonflies, love its Jade thin, so to paint the wings of the gold pen, as a small folding branch flower child." Visible ancient women's make-up is not only rich, but also original and unconventional. The color of the flower tin red, green, yellow, etc., we are familiar with the "Mulan Diction" in the "mirror to paste flowers yellow" sentence. In addition to the shape of the flower tin plum blossom, there are all kinds of birds, fish, ducks, etc., very wonderful novelty.

(2) lipstick

Anciently known as lipstick lipstick, lipstick. Lipstick vermilion, painted on the lips, can increase the vividness of the mouth and lips, giving a healthy, young, energetic impression, so since ancient times has been loved by women. The extent of this favorite can be seen from the "Book of Tang - Hundred Officials", the book records: "Lunar New Year's Day to offer mouth fat, face fat, head cream and clothing pouches, given to the North Gate Bachelor, mouth fat Sheng to the blue wisp of the tooth tube." Here it is written to use carved ivory tube to hold lipstick, visible lipstick in many cosmetics have how precious status!

There are many ways to make up the mouth fat, China is used to small mouth for beauty, that is, "a little bit of cherry mouth," such as the Tang Dynasty poet Cen Sen in the "Drunken Play Dou Beauty Poem," said: "Vermilion lips a little peach blossom Yin."

After the Yuanhe year of the Tang Dynasty, due to the influence of the Tubo costume and make-up, there appeared "cry make-up", "tear make-up", as the name implies, is to make-up like crying, then called "the world make-up The poet Bai Juyi once wrote in "The Times and Times of the World". The poet Bai Juyi once described in detail in the poem "Time and Age Makeup": "Time and Age Makeup, Time and Age Makeup, from the city in the four directions, the popularity of the time and age is not near and far, cheeks without Zhu face without powder, ointment injection lips like mud, eyebrows painted as eight low, ugly women and black and white loss of the original state, make-up into a near seemingly contain sad cry." This kind of makeup is not only not very beautiful, but also give people a strange feeling, so soon not popular.

Tang and Song dynasties also popular with sandalwood color point lips, sandalwood color is light reddish color. The Northern Song lyricist Qin Guan sang in "Nan Ge Zi", "rubbing orchid shirt apricot yellow skirt, leaning alone on the jade fence, speechless pointing sandalwood lips." This lipstick color is still popular until modern times. Of course, whether it is vermilion or sandalwood color, should be based on the different characteristics of the individual, different conditions to be appropriate to choose to use, must not be bizarre and strange fashion for the United States.

(3) Fu powder

Fu powder is powder on the face. Ancient Chinese women put on powder very early, and this has been the most common way to make up. According to the Book of Tang, Emperor Ming of Tang rewarded Yang Guifei's sisters with millions of taels every year! As for the method of powder application, Li Yu, a dramatist in the early Qing Dynasty, had a unique opinion. He believed that women's powder application at that time "had a tendency to attract attention, and those who were beautiful used it to enhance their beauty", "those who were white could be made to be white again", and "those who were black were added to be white to show their blackness". Is to show its black", distinctly out of the makeup and aesthetic relationship. What is more worth thinking about is that the ancients also put the powder and other make-up with the moral cultivation of contact, pointing out that beauty should be combined with self-cultivation, such as the Eastern Han Dynasty, Cai Yong that: "Rangzhao wiping the face of the mind of the clean, Fu powder of the mind of the mind of the and also, plus powder is the freshness of the mind of the mind of the also, Zephyr hair of the mind of the also, with the pectin is the mind of the reason is the also, the chignon of the mind of the also, the right to take sideburns, the mind of the whole, the also. This view is not only insightful, but also profound.

(4) forehead yellow

Forehead yellow, also known as crow yellow, is painted yellow between the forehead. This kind of make-up is not used now, it originated in the North and South Dynasties and flourished in the Tang Dynasty. According to "Chinese women's makeup through the ages" in the record: the generation of this makeup, and the popularity of Buddhism has a certain relationship. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Buddhism was in full bloom in China, and some women were inspired by the gold-painted Buddha statues and painted their foreheads yellow, which gradually became a custom. In the Southern Dynasty, Emperor Jianwendi's "Beautiful Women" said, "About the yellow moon, cut gold as a star." Here said about yellow effect moon, refers to the forehead yellow make-up. In the Tang Dynasty, when the yellow forehead was popular, Wen Tingjun recited the phrase "the yellow forehead is unlimited in the sunset mountains" in his poem, and Li Shangyin also wrote: "When Princess Shouyang was married to the makeup, the eight palace eyebrows cupped the yellow forehead." Tang Dynasty Niu Shengru in the "strange record" also specifically recounted the goddess Zhiqiong make-up forehead yellow story. To the Song Dynasty when the forehead yellow is still popular, the poet Peng Ru Li song said: "There are women in the early days called the fine lady, pearl fall temples face painted yellow." These all reflect the ancient women like forehead yellow scene.

(5)Painting eyebrows

Painting eyebrows is one of the most popular and common methods of makeup in China, which arose in the Warring States period. Qu Yuan in the "Chu Rhetoric - big move" recorded: "powder white Dai black, Shi Fangze only." The term "daihei" refers to the use of black color to draw eyebrows. During the Han Dynasty, eyebrow painting became more common, and the more they were painted, the better they looked. It is written in the Miscellaneous Records of the Western Capital that "Sima Xiangru's wife, Wenjun, had eyebrows that looked like distant mountains, and the people of the time drew the eyebrows of distant mountains." This is to say that the eyebrows are drawn long and curved and green, as beautiful as the distant mountains. Later, it developed into using emerald green color to draw eyebrows, and it was also popular in the court. In the Song Dynasty, Yan Guidao described in "Six Million Orders", "Late in the evening, the emerald green eyebrows of the palace like, skillfully put the distant mountains to learn." Mizhuangtai record" said "Wei Wu Di made the palace people painted green eyebrow, even eyebrows, a painting even the heart is very long, people called the fairy e makeup." The popularity of this green eyebrow instead of using black eyebrows became a novelty. Chinese Ancient and Modern Note" said Yang Guifei "for white makeup black eyebrows", people at that time will be recognized as a new way of makeup, called it "new makeup". It is no wonder that Xu Ning described it in his poem, "Once the new make-up was put off, the six palaces competed to draw black smoke eyebrows."

During the Sheng Tang period, it was popular to draw eyebrows broad and short, shaped like laurel leaves or moth wings. Yuan Zhen's poem said, "Don't draw long eyebrows, draw short eyebrows," and Li He's poem also said, "The new laurel is like a moth's eyebrow. In order to make the broad eyebrow painting does not look dull, women also in the eyebrow painting will be the edge of the eyebrow color outward evenly scattered, called "halo eyebrow". There is another kind of eyebrow painted very thin, called "thin eyebrow", so Bai Juyi in the "on the Yang white-haired man" in the "green dai point eyebrow eyebrow thin and long" sentence, in the "Song of Long Hatred", but also described: "hibiscus such as the face of the willow such as eyebrow In the Song of Long Hate, it was also described as "Hibiscus is like face and willow is like eyebrows. To the Tang Xuanzong when the form of eyebrow painting is more colorful, the name see passes on there are ten kinds of eyebrow: mandarin ducks eyebrow, small mountain eyebrow, five eyebrow, three peaks eyebrow, hanging beads eyebrow, the moon eyebrow, split eyebrow, Han Yan eyebrow, whisking smoke eyebrow, inverted halo eyebrow. There are so many ways to draw eyebrows alone, which shows that the ancients had a strong love of beauty.

Second, the ancient makeup tools

(1) the ancient women's "eyebrow pencil":

It is said that the style of eyebrow painting began in the Warring States, there is no specific eyebrow painting materials, before the women burned willow branches coated in the eyebrow (a good weird make-up, oh, or to be a modern person good).

The materials used by ancient women to draw eyebrows changed with the hungry development of the times.

From the documentary point of view, the earliest eyebrow material is dai, dai is a black mineral, also known as "stone dai".

Before painting must be placed on the stone ink stone grinding, so that it becomes powder, and then add water and blend. Grinding stone inkstone in the Han tombs have been found, indicating that this cosmetic in the Han Dynasty has been in use.

In addition to stone dai, there are copper dai, green bird's head dai and conch dai.

Copper dai is a patina-like chemical substance. Green Bird's Head Dye is a dark gray material for painting eyebrows, which was imported from the West during the North and South Dynasties. The conch dai, on the other hand, is a material for women's eyebrow painting in the Sui and Tang dynasties, produced in the Persian country, and it is a kind of dai block that has been processed and manufactured and has become various specified shapes. It can be used by dipping it in water without grinding it, and it is also called "graphite" or "eyebrow ink" because its appearance and the process of making it are similar to that of ink spindles used in calligraphy and painting.

During the Song Dynasty, the use of ink for painting eyebrows became more widespread, and women rarely used shidai.

On the production method of eyebrow ink, Song notes also have narratives, for example, "Things Lin Guangji" said: "a real hemp oil, more than with the heart of the lamp rubbed tightly, will be the oil lamp in the water burned, covered with a small vessel, so that the smoke condensation on the, and then get swept down. Before three days ago, with the brain musk don't dip a little oil, pour into the smoke and mix well, the ink can be more than paint. A method of spinning cut hemp oil lamp flower, with especially good." This smoke fumigation of eyebrow material, to the end of the Song and early Yuan, was beautifully named "eyebrow set incense round". After the Yuan Dynasty, the court women's eyebrows of the dai, all choose Beijing West Mentougou District Jaitang specialties of the eyebrow stone, to the Ming and Qing dynasties also. To the early 1920s, with the eastern gradient of western culture, China's women's cosmetics have undergone a series of changes. Eyebrow painting materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencils and chemically-modified black grease, have been used up to the present day because they are easy to use and portable. (2)Fangze kissable - makeup powder

Chinese women use makeup powder at least in the Warring States has begun, the oldest makeup powder has two ingredients, one is made of rice powder crushed, the ancient word powder from the rice from the points; the other makeup powder is the white lead into a paste of the face fat, commonly known as "Hu Powder The other kind of makeup powder is to turn white lead into a paste of face fat, commonly known as "Hu Powder". Because it is made of lead, so it is also called "lead Hua", also known as "lead powder".

Both kinds of powder are used to put on the face to keep the skin clean.

On the production method of rice flour, in the "Qimin elements" has a more detailed record, the most primitive method of making powder, is a round bowl of powder to hold the rice juice, so that its precipitation, made of a kind of white powder greasy "Powder Ying", and then placed in the sun, sun-dried powder can be used to make up the face. Because of this production method is simple, so in the folk widely spread, until the Tang and Song dynasties, people make rice flour, still using this method.

There is also a kind of fragrant powder, is made of corn, the same as above, only the last plus a variety of spices, it will become fragrant powder, because the corn itself contains a certain degree of viscosity, so use it to dress the face, is not easy to fall off. Compared with the rice flour, lead powder production process is much more complex, from the early literature, the so-called lead powder, in fact, contains a variety of chemical elements such as lead, tin, aluminum, zinc, etc., initially used with the women's make-up of lead powder has not been dehydrated, so more than a paste. Since the Han Dynasty, the lead powder is made of dried water into powder or solid shape. Because of its fine texture, color and white, and easy to save, so loved by women, over time to replace the status of rice flour.

In addition to simple rice flour, lead powder, the ancient women's makeup powder there are a lot of names, such as in the Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties, the courtier Duan Qiaoxiao rice flour, Hu powder mixed with sunflower seed juice, synthesized into the "purple powder".

Tang Dynasty palace to fine corn made of "welcome butterfly powder".

In the Song Dynasty, there are gypsum, talcum, mussel powder, wax fat, shell musk and motherwort and other materials blended into the "Jade Peach Powder".

In the Ming Dynasty, there was "Pearl Powder" made from white jasmine kernels and "Jade Hairpin Powder" made from the flowers of Jade Hairpin and Hu Powder in the shape of Jade Hairpin.

In the Qing Dynasty, there are pearls processed from the "pearl powder" and talc and other fine stones ground from the "stone powder" and so on.

There are also famous for their origins, such as Zhejiang's "Hangzhou Powder" (also known as official powder); Jingzhou's "Fanyang Powder"; Hebei's "Ding Powder"; Guilin's "Gui Powder". "Gui powder" and so on, the color of the powder also increased from the original white for a variety of colors, and mixed with a variety of valuable spices, so that it has a more charming charm. Nearly half a century, with the deepening of archaeological work, a large number of makeup powder in kind has been unearthed, some of which are held in a delicate bowl, some installed in the silk bag, the most characteristic is unearthed from Fuzhou, Fujian, Southern Song Dynasty makeup powder, was made into a specific shape of the powder block, round, square, quadrilateral, octagonal and sunflower petal-shaped and so on, above also embossed with convex and concave plum blossom, orchid, as well as the lotus pattern.

(3) beautiful purple and red words rouge

Rouge is the ancient women commonly used cosmetics, the canonical writings about rouge there are many, such as "Yanzhi", "smoke", "fresh support ", "Yan Zhi", "Yan fat", "Xiongnu" and so on.

It is a red pigment, there is a theory that the real origin of the ancient rouge is the territory of the Xiongnu Yanzhi Mountain, and "Xiongnu" this name, is a kind of Xiongnu people on the court women's name, the original refers to the nobleman's wife, because these noblewomen often "Xiongnu Because these noble women often use "Xiongnu" to decorate their faces, so "Xiongnu" became their substitute name.

It is said that the introduction of rouge into the Central Plains and Zhang Qian's mission to the West. The so-called "rouge" is actually a kind of flower called "red and blue", which contains two kinds of pigments, red and yellow, in its petals, and after the flower bloomed, it was picked whole, and then put in a stone bowl and pestle repeatedly, to remove the yellow juice, that is, the bright red pigment.

There are two kinds of rouge for women's makeup, one is silk dipped in red and blue flower juice, called "Mian Yanzhi"; the other is processed into a small, thin piece of the flower, called "Golden Flower Yanzhi". Both of these rouge can be dried, and can be applied by dipping it in a small amount of water.

To about the period of the North and South Dynasties, people in this red pigment and added cow's pith, pig's pancreas and other things, so that it becomes a kind of thick and lubricating cream, from which Yanzhi is written as "cochineal", "fat" has a real meaning. Dream of Red Mansions" 44, there is a description of rouge, said very graphic. This rouge "is not a sheet, but a small alabaster box, which holds a box, such as rose cream. Baoyu laughed: 'store sold not clean, the color is thin, this is a good rouge wringing out the juice, amorphous clean, with a flower dew steamed, as long as the fine hairpin on the pick a little bit, smeared on the lips, enough; with a little water, smeared in the heart of the hand, enough to slap the face. Ping'er made up according to the instructions, and it was really bright and colorful, and sweet-smelling all over her cheeks."

In addition to red and blue, the raw materials used to make rouge include reddish-red, pomegranate, mountain flowers, and sufang wood. Heavy reddish-red is a kind of reddish-red dye, its color is relatively strong, not as bright and transparent as red and blue. It was often used as the material of Yanzhi in Han and Wei Dynasty. Pomegranate is also a red pigment, in the Sui and Tang dynasties often used to refining and dyeing of women's skirts, known as "pomegranate red skirt", but can also be used to make rouge.

Similar to the pomegranate flower is the mountain flower, the mountain flower is a wild plant, after refining and processing, it can be used for makeup materials. Su Fang wood, also known as "Su Mu", its color is relatively dull, but as a dye hungry history is long, as early as the Wei and Jin dynasties is a major red dye.

Because of the popularization of rouge, after the Han Dynasty, women for the red makeup is increasing, and enduring. From a large number of documentary records and image data, ancient women's makeup, often fat and powder, single rouge makeup face is relatively rare, the specific practices can be divided into three kinds:

1, in the make-up before the first rouge and lead powder blending, so that it becomes a sandalwood red - i.e., pink, and then wiped directly on the cheeks, because of its in the dressing face Before it has been blended into a color, so the color is more uniform, the whole face of the color is more uniform, can give a person a solemn, quiet feeling, so more for adult women;

2, the first wipe white powder, and then coated with rouge, rouge position is often concentrated in the cheeks, so the cheeks are more red, and the forehead, nose, and the lower jaw is exposed to the color of the white powder, the ancient Chinese traditional painting techniques have The traditional Chinese painting techniques have "three white" said, is based on this makeup method (physical visible Tang Yin's paintings, most of the women in it are so make-up), from the image, this type of makeup is often used to young people, the history of the book of "peach blossom make-up", that is, refers to this type of make-up;

3, first on the face of a layer of rouge, and then gently covered with white powder. Because the degree of color varies, the name is different, the rich and colorful called "wine halo makeup", a little lighter called "Flying Haze makeup".

Three, the ancient harem beauties with cosmetics

Beauty, simply a war of the roses.

That said, the most famous loser and dimwitted Emperor Yang of Sui. He liked to roam around in a dragon boat, each boat has a selection of beautiful Changbai women thousands of people, holding a carved plate skeleton gold oar, known as the "temple foot female". One day, Emperor Yang looked at a temple foot female Wu Jiangxian, fascinated by her flexibility and beauty, to promote her as Jieyu, but did not realize that she has been married, Emperor Yang was very upset, mentioned her to the dragon boat to execute the first oar, known as "Mrs. Kongdong". The emperor's hobby is really wide and no principle ah, there is no class, from the old man's consort, to the lowest status of the people's wife, to the shy face has not tasted open the little girl, eat, as long as enough to be beautiful. Since Wu Jiangxian painted her eyebrows in the shape of a long moth eyebrow, the beauties of the harem competed to follow suit and painted long moth eyebrows. The palace officials issued five ducats of conch daisy every day, which was called "moth green". Conch daisy produced in Persia, each worth ten gold. Emperor Yang leaned against the curtain to see Wu Jiangxian every time, and did not leave for a long time, said: "the ancients said 'beautiful color if can eat', like Jiangxian like this can really cure hunger disease ah." Another beautiful woman who labored was Lady Sun, the beloved consort of Sun He, the son of Sun Quan. Sun He often held Madame Sun on his lap. One night, when the moon was bright, he accidentally touched Madame Sun's cheek with the jade ruyi in his hand, and blood flowed all over his face. Sun He summoned the imperial physicians and ordered them not to leave any scar. The imperial physician said that it was easy to stop the bleeding, but in order not to leave a scar, he had to mix white otter marrow, jade shavings and amber shavings together and apply them frequently to make it effective. Sun He then offered a reward to the world, and those who offered white otter marrow were rewarded with thousands of gold. An old fisherman on the Fuchun River reported that: every year when the fish sacrifice, white otters will fight for their mates, the dead otter's withered bones are hidden in the stone caves, although there is no bone marrow in it, but the bones will be crushed, and mixed with jade powder, it can be removed from the scars. Hearing this, Sun and the fisherman were ordered to salvage some otter bones, jade chips, amber powder and make ointment. As a result, too much of the expensive amber powder was used, and after Mrs. Deng put it on, it left a ruddy spot on her cheeks, which looked even more playful. The concubines of the harem took a look, and they all used Dan resin to point a small spot on their cheeks, and it became a custom. Who is asking, why so. Why does Guo Jing love Huang Rong and not Hua Zhen? Why does Chen Jia Luo love Princess Xiang Xiang and not Huo Qing Tong? Yang why love little dragon lady not love Guo Xiang, Guo Fu, Cheng Ying, Lu Wushu, Gongsun Lv Calyx, Yelu Yan? It is because they are not as beautiful as the former. Angels love beauty, men also love beauty. Jane Austen in the "Nogueran Temple" wrote her heroine Catherine, "at the meeting she wore what dress, comb what hair style, has become her biggest concern." Women, who isn't. Blue chip belongs to you, red dress belongs to me, career with you, clothes wrap me, the same in ancient and modern times.

Four, ancient cosmetics and make-up

(1) eye ring make-up

Since ancient times, people in order to protect the muscle or in order to modify the instrument, very concerned about make-up. During the time of primitive man, human beings used to apply animal fats, oils, clays and loess on the skin of their bodies to protect themselves from cold and heat and to prevent insect bites. At that time, human beings lived in the reckless primitive forest, in order to prevent terroir diseases, but also keen to engage in superstitious spells to get rid of the evil, whenever people hold ceremonial rituals, they must make up the eyes and face.

In ancient Egypt, people in order to prevent the heat and dry skin, commonly used fragrance oil and oil ointment coated skin. In addition, the ancient Egyptians also liked eye ring make-up, that is, green, black or blue pigment outlined on the upper and lower eyelids, which is said to prevent the invasion of trachoma, flies (there is a kind of fly in the ancient tropics that can fly into the eyes to lay eggs) and flying insects, but also to shield from the burning sun and disinfecting. Therefore, when preparing this kind of paint cosmetics, most of them are mixed with blue-green malachite powder with sterilization effect. Later, people also began to pay attention to the color of this kind of cosmetics, they especially love the black manganese dioxide modulation of the paint, and even the choice of green resin.

According to the ancient mummy research and analysis, it was found that the ancient people's upper eyelids coated with black pigment, the lower eyelids coated with blue-green pigment, this black pigment is the main component of lead sulfide, blue-green pigment is the main ingredient of malachite (containing a large number of copper sulfate).

In the Middle East, women had the custom of outlining their eyes in blue-black color a long time ago, and to this day, in some Islamic countries, people can still see the women with heavily made-up eyes through the thin veil occasionally. In ancient Greek times, eye lashes were first painted with smoky black and then coated with a yellowish-white natural rubber paste. Women at that time also loved to extract red dye from henna and apply it to their lips and cheeks. (2)Makeup for eyebrows and lips

According to records, King Zhou loved to give his favorite wives and concubines congealed flower juice to dye their nails and make up their faces, and because this kind of cosmetic first originated in the country of Yan, it was called "Yan fat" by later generations.

Lipstick was widely used by Chinese women as far back as the Han Dynasty. In addition to locks of hair, combs and perfumed powder, the lacquer combing box unearthed from the Mawangdui Tomb No. 1 in Changsha, the former Han Dynasty, more than 2,000 years ago, was also found to contain Yan fat.

Eyebrow pencil in ancient times, also known as "Dai", also has a long history. According to documents, serving the former Emperor Xuan of Han Dynasty, Zhang Chuan, the governor of Kyoto, loved to draw eyebrows with dai for his wife. At the beginning of the Later Han Dynasty, it was popular for women in Chang'an area to draw "wide eyebrows", and at that time, a greenish-blue eyebrow pencil was used. In the Tang Dynasty, it was popular to draw the eyebrow with a moth's whisker (tentacle).

The Tang Dynasty also saw the popularity of "red makeup", "Zhu face" and "red face", which is a woman's makeup before putting white powder on her face and then applying red rouge. According to legend, Yang Guifei went to the harem to say goodbye to her parents, tears, before getting on the car, because of the cold weather, the tears on the face even frozen into red ice it! ...... In addition, there is an interesting legend, Guifei due to the fullness of the body, whenever the summer season will be hot and breathless, sweaty, whenever she wiped her face with a handkerchief, the handkerchief turned red.

The great poet of the Tang Dynasty also wrote a poem titled "Makeup of the Times," which describes the popular make-up technique of women in Chang'an of applying black oil on their lips (called "ointment lips") and white powder on their faces.

In 601 A.D., Goryeo monks brought lipstick to Japan, so at that time, all the nymphs in the "Auspicious Fairy Picture" had lipstick on their lips, but the popularization of lipstick make-up by Japanese women was still at the beginning of the 18th century, and at that time, in order to make the lipstick more thickly smeared, women loved to put ink on their lips before applying lipstick. (3)Mole and beard make-up

The end of the seventeenth century, Parisian women popularized mole make-up. The shape of the mole is divided into star-shaped, crescent-shaped and round, generally more dotted in the forehead, nose, cheeks and lips, but also point in the abdomen, belly and the inside of the legs in the hidden, the color of the mole of black and red and so on.

According to the 1692 Paris St. Denis Street mole store publicity that: the meaning of the mole because the mole is located in different parts of the different, very different. For example, point in the forehead of the mole symbolizes the queen; point in the nostrils on both sides of the sign of shame; point in the eye frame that is full of passion; lip side of the mole, that love kissing, is a love is not dedicated to the woman; dimples on the point on the mole means that the owner is a bright character of the woman. Of course, these meanings are all conceived by people.

Additionally, men at the time were also "not willing to lag behind", and it was fashionable to keep a mouth beard, a custom that had been drummed up in society for a while.

It is said that because King Louis XIII of France loved to keep a beard, so those who love to catch up with the fashionable men will be like the law, grow this kind of beard with the king's demeanor.

Surprisingly, some men also love the original love in the beard coated with thick balm, so that the beard becomes very hard, as if the wire. In addition, there is love in the mouth of the two ends of the beard decorated with colorful fake band of fashionable men, and even with a specially made beard set, cited as the United States, it is really strange, jaw-dropping. (4) perfume and perfumed oil heat

Like the ancient Indian era, ancient Europe, Asia, women, in order to physical comfort and attraction, commonly used make-up to eliminate sweat and body odor. According to the book "Egyptian medicine", the ancient princes and nobles of the ladies, commonly used to add an aromatic substance of the oil for cosmetics, then has been invented with a simple distillation method to extract essential oils, but has not yet been invented volatile perfume. This oily fragrance oil added musk, ambergris or myrrh and other spices, but also jasmine, saffron and other petals after distillation to extract the flavor. In ancient Greek and Roman times, people were already putting drops of perfume into their bath water and scrubbing their bodies with sponges soaked in this detergent. The ancient Chinese and Japanese loved to use lavender. Some women put ambergris or musk on their lower bodies.

In the sixteenth century, Columbus and other people discovered the New World, and then many new spices were brought back to Europe, such as cocoa, Peruvian balm and Huarani spices. At that time, people were superstitious that wearing perfume and scented oils (especially those containing musk and ambergris) could prevent syphilis, so the society soon set off a wave of perfume and scented oil craze. At that time, there was a merchant in Florence, Italy, who transported imported spices to Paris for sale and made a fortune. Especially King Louis ruled France in the eighteenth century Rococo era, the sale of spices in society is very large, even the women's foot wash should be mixed with perfume. It is said that the noblewomen of Versailles used a so-called "fart-reducing perfume", which was a very strange thing to see. It is said that the king preferred to shave off his beautiful chestnut blonde curls and put on an "oval wig" for the sake of beauty, as well as applying red and white powder to his face. The other princes and nobles of the court were also fond of powdering their hair and wearing shoulder-length wigs. As for the king's favorite wives and concubines and noblewomen more in the make-up, they put the perfume as pouring water on the body to attract men.

Bath beauty is also the rich men and women to pursue the goal, the most fashionable bath beauty method is to use the milk of cows to bathe, and with the lily, water lily and broad bean flower distilled water, grape juice or lemon juice and other make-up water coated and massaged the skin, in order to make the skin whitening. Because in those days, only white-skinned people were of noble lineage.

It is recorded that the daily beauty schedule of the king's favorite concubine at that time, such as Mrs. Monte Spong, provided for 2 to 3 hours of bedtime make-up time, and they rubbed the skin of their bodies fiercely with perfume, scented powders and oils, so that their bodies could maintain a lasting and elegant scent, and then smeared a thick layer of white perfumed powder on their bodies.

However, at that time, the lipstick and scented powder is made of lead, tin, sulfur and mercury and other chemicals, long-term use of this lipstick and scented powder, it will make the skin hard,

Fifth, the ancient women's make-up

Nowadays, every woman seems to be born with a beautiful face, wiped the powder refused to recognize, "who all can't see that I'm wearing powder!" (a foundation advertisement) Tang Dynasty women also have such vanity, what lead powder, crushed rice grains desperately to the face, regardless of whether chronic lead poisoning, or fall off a piece of powder lumps. In such a thick foundation coated with thick lubricating cream, the effect is "a wash face a pot of red mud soup". Wang Jian "Palace Lyrics" recorded a courtesan "return to the courtyard to rewash the face, gold flower pots splash red mud".

The cost of work is so high, so many people do not want to take off their makeup, often in Tang poetry, the word "makeup", the so-called "shot palace maiden hosting red makeup" refers to this. Wen Tingyun said that a complaining woman, "Rui yellow infinite when the mountain forehead, makeup hidden smile veil window. When I see the peony, I will come and leave her." It means "If you don't come back to see me, I won't take off my makeup"! Imagine a woman in heavy makeup not washing her face for a month, the threat is as strong as a hunger strike!

There were two main types of eyebrows in the Tang Dynasty: the long, thin "moth eyebrow" and the wide "broad eyebrow. In the late Tang Xuanzong, Yang Guifei switched to using ink and smoke to draw her eyebrows, "Once the new makeup threw off the old style, the six palaces competed to draw black smoke eyebrows." The whole country learned from the new beauty method of the mother of the nation, and as a result, the beauty stores were greatly lagging behind in the sale of Qingdai and charcoal strips.

After a short time, the palace invented a "blood halo makeup", that is, in the shaved eyebrows up and down, with red and purple painted three or four horizontal road, and then with the finger will be painted until the melting, looks like blood and flesh. This in today's fashion world, only Faye Wong dared to make the "blood makeup", in the Tang Dynasty is actually very popular, forcing those who have a backlog of dozens of tons of ink and tobacco sellers to do charcoal sellers.

To the Yuan and years, makeup and changed, "cheeks without Zhu face without powder. The lips are covered with ointment, and the eyebrows are drawn in a low eight-pointed pattern. Round hair without sideburns bun-like, oblique red not halo ochre face makeup." Bai Juyi this song "the world makeup" into the Yuan and a summer popular makeup fashion release word ---- face painted ochre, black mud painted lips, eight eyebrows, towering bun, now even Faye Wong did not have the guts to make this kind of "wailing makeup!

Tubo people every day to use ochre-colored soil coated cheeks, said to be able to ward off evil spirits, but also because of the lack of oxygen on the plateau, lips are always black, not coated with "ointment". According to tufan literature, princess wencheng to tufan, that "ochre face makeup" impede health, is really a despicable habit, so suggested that songtsen gampo ordered the abolition of this custom, tufan people are even very grateful to princess wencheng for them to break the stereotypes. This reflects today's self-righteousness and ignorance, "ochre face makeup" in the Tubo not only was not broken, but from the Tubo occupation of the Hezhou popular to Chang'an.

The Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture in Gansu Province was called "Hezhou" during the Tang Dynasty, and during the Anshi Rebellion, Hezhou and the Hexi Corridor were occupied by the Tubo, and the Silk Road was cut off. Tubo forced all the Tang people to comply with their living habits, change clothing, wearing felt fur, lapels on the left side of the open, face painted ochre soil. After more than a hundred years, the appearance of the Tang people in Huangshuanghuo was no different from that of the Turks. Many children learn the language of the Tubo, the concept of Han has been very thin, the middle Tang poet Sikongtu passed by this place, see is "Han children all as Hu'er language, but to the head of the city scolded the Han people." ("Huangshuangrui feeling")

The Tang Empire regarded the River State was taken by the Tubo as a great shame, always thinking of restoring the River State, the Tubo popular makeup but in turn dumped the Great Tang, really did not expect ah.