Who still remembers the thirteen wonders of Qingming cold food?

In March and April, the spring is bright and the pollen is green. In addition to going out for an outing and sweeping away the worship, the ancients also have the custom of cold food, namely the Cold Food Festival. The Cold Food Festival is after the winter solstice 105, which means that it is only one or two days away from Qingming. Generally speaking, the Cold Food Festival originated from "pushing Mianshan to burn my body". In order to commemorate the anniversary of the death of Jietui, it is forbidden to make a fire and eat cold meals on this day as a sign of mourning. Among the cold food customs in various places, the old Beijing cold food custom, known as the "Thirteen Unique Cold Foods", is the most representative. Most of the cold foods in history have profound meanings and rich varieties, including cold porridge, cold noodles, cold paste, green rice and preserved rice. Cold food offerings include noodles, snakes, rabbits and jujube cakes. There are dozens of drinks such as spring wine and new tea. Most of the food in the Cold Food Festival has been lost, but some have survived to this day.

Traditional "thirteen unique skills of cold food":

Let's take a look at the stories of these snacks one by one:

1,shredded ginger is not only a traditional snack in Beijing, but also a variety of teas in Beijing. Tea is a ritual food for Manchu and Hui people. When Manchu people hold a banquet, it is customary to use tea first, then cold meat, hot food, sweets, soup and so on. , in order. Hui people don't drink alcohol, but out of courtesy, they often use tea instead of wine, so tea dishes are essential.

2. Hard-faced cake is a kind of cake mixed with sugar, which is as big as sesame cake. The entrance is chewy, slightly sweet and fragrant, and can be broken off by hand. Now it has disappeared without a trace.

№.3.inby, shaped like a doughnut, dark yellow in color, shaped like a bracelet and crispy, is often eaten as a side dish of another special snack in Beijing. But in today's nutrition, it is too greasy, so it is best to eat less. Here comes the bomb.

Sugar roll can be said to be the most distinctive halal holiday food. The main ingredients are yam and jujube, both of which have nourishing effects and are also medicinal diets.

Pea yellow is a seasonal food in Beijing in spring and summer. Peas are beneficial to diuresis, quenching thirst and regulating middle qi. According to Beijing custom, you should eat pea yellow on the third day of the third lunar month. Therefore, whenever pea yellow is listed in spring, it will be supplied until the end of spring. There are two kinds of pea yellow in Beijing: palace and folk. The story is related to the Cixi Lafayette, which is said to be the favorite of the Western Empress Dowager. Wandou cake

5. Aiwowo, also a spring and autumn variety, is now available all year round. Formerly known as "Yu Ai Wo Wo", it was introduced to the people in the Ming Dynasty. According to Jin Ping Mei, Aiwowo was one of the popular delicacies at that time.

6, horseshoe-shaped sesame seed cake, two thin layers, hollow inside, shaped like a horseshoe, is no longer sold.

7. Snails turn to children, which is named for its shape. Snack bars used to turn over the snails that couldn't be sold that day and dry them with a small fire before selling them. When it is dry, it is called "dry boiled rice", so there is a saying in Beijing that "dry boiled rice will make the wine crisp".

№.8. Braised dough twists, which were called "ring cakes" and "coolers" in ancient times, were clearly explained in Li Shizhen's Compendium of Materia Medica in the Ming Dynasty: "The coolers are ready to eat, and the noodles are mixed with glutinous flour, with less salt, and twisted into rings with ropes ... It was broken at the entrance. It can be seen that scorpion twisting is ancient.

9, snowballing usury, bean flour cake, also known as snowballing usury, with soybeans as the main raw material, called "snowballing usury"? This seems to be a metaphor. Rolling in soybeans is like rolling on a donkey and raising dust. "Yandou Miscellaneous Snacks" said: "Soybeans are glutinous rice, steamed, wrapped in brown sugar water, rolled into fried bean noodles and sold in plates. It is really incredible to call them' snowballs'. " Rolling donkeys, Beijing snacks

№. 10, candied fruit, also known as sugar ear, is named because it looks like a human ear.

№. 1 1, sugar fire, old Beijingers all know that there are three treasures in Tongzhou, one of which is the sugar fire in Dashunzhai. It is said that foreign dignitaries visiting in the 1960s specially brought it back to China.

№. 12, sesame seed cake, needless to say. One of its brothers, "Chengsha sesame seed cake", is a bit interesting, because part of the bean paste stuffing has to be exposed from the side, which is also called "clam swallowing honey".

№. 13. Cream fried cake is a nutritious snack variety in Beijing snacks. It takes the good flour as the raw material, first burns a proper amount of boiling water, then turns to low heat, pours the flour into a pot, and quickly stirs it until the dough turns from white to gray and does not stick to hands, then takes it out and dries it to make instant noodles. Dissolve sugar and vanilla powder in water, put an appropriate amount of egg liquid into a bowl, stir, add it into instant noodles several times, add cream, sugar water and vanilla powder for the last time, and knead well. Pour peanut oil or vegetable oil into the pot, or use butter. However, soybean oil or sesame oil should not be used, because the latter two oils are easy to offset the creamy taste. When the fire is high enough to smoke, switch to a small fire. At this time, 500 grams of evenly stirred dough is divided into 40 even balls, which are pressed into round cakes by hand before being put into the oil pan, and are dropped into the oil one by one. When the cake swells into a ball and is golden yellow, take it out and roll it with sugar. Cream fried cake is round, tender outside, rich in flavor, rich in nutrition and easy to digest.

Now thirteen:

Among the above thirteen kinds of food, the existing oil pancakes such as cream, snowball, sugar paste, pea yellow and inby are still popular in the streets, but the hard cake is on the verge of extinction. In recent years, some folklore experts have suggested that the traditional "thirteen absolutely cold foods", that is, thirteen kinds of cold foods with the characteristics of old Beijing, should be "packaged" as soon as possible to avoid breaking the inheritance.

Let's start with cold food and hard noodles:

The traditional "cold food", also known as the "fire-changing festival", refers to the stove that every household has burned all winter, and it needs to be extinguished and cleaned after the spring, so a family can eat cold food only after a day or two of ceasefire. Among them, the cold food with the characteristics of old Beijing is "Thirteen Unique Cold Foods". Nowadays, snowballing usury, sugar biscuits, pea yellow, inby, biscuits and so on are all common things in the streets, while the "hard flour cakes" with unique gluten and sweetness have lost their traces and are on the verge of extinction. The Cold Food Festival is accompanied by the "four great teas" in old Beijing-Camellia oleifera, noodle tea, almond tea and tea soup.

Hard cakes were "adults' snacks" under certain circumstances in the past. "In the past, people played cards at night and were hungry. They buy hard cakes from vendors walking around the street and put them in their mouths while playing cards. " Lao She's Under the Red Flag has a tough plot. However, the sweet and hard cakes may not meet the tastes of the public now, and the production process is complicated and troublesome, so they are gradually lost.

Another version of "Thirteen Unique Cold Foods":

Fried cake with cream, pressed, braised dough twists, ginger slices, snowballs, sugar roasting fire, Aiwowo, flour tea, sugar ears, pea yellow, inby, hard noodles, sesame paste sesame cakes.