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Works, China traditional liquor from which dynasty?

The Origin and Development of Liquor

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July 25th, 2005 1 1:56 China Shanghai Station tonight.

China is the birthplace of koji-making and wine-making, with unique wine-making technology in the world. Kenichiro Sakaguchi, an honorary professor at the University of Tokyo, once said that China's creation of distiller's yeast and its spread to East Asia were as important as China's four great inventions. Liquor, made from distiller's yeast, is a characteristic drink of the Chinese nation and a unique distilled liquor in the world, commonly known as spirits. It has become a major producer and exporter of alcoholic beverages in the world, and has played an active role in China's political, economic, cultural and diplomatic fields.

When did liquor originate? Who started it? So far, the story is still inconsistent. The word "Wan" already existed in Oracle Bone Inscriptions in Shang Dynasty. Huainanzi said: "The beauty of Wan Qing begins with Wan Lei". The Book of Life records: "If you make wine, you are a singer." The earliest literature record is "Juba", the moldy grain is called Juba, and the germinated grain is called Juba. Judging from the font, there is a meter word. M, Shi Su also. Therefore, the earliest bows and bangs were made of moldy and germinated millet. Shuo Wen Jie Zi says, "Hey, Cheryl also". "Those who eat, Shi Su also". In the future, malt was used instead of millet buds, and rice bran was used to produce sweet wine (rice bran) after the production methods of rice bran and distiller's yeast were separated. From Shang and Zhou Dynasties to Han Dynasty, praising wine was still very popular. During the Northern Wei Dynasty, wine was brewed with fermented grains, so there was no narrative of making songs in Qi Yao Min Shu. Song Ying Xing wrote "Heavenly Creations" on 1636, saying: "Ancient music makes wine, glutinous rice makes glutinous rice, and later generations hate glutinous rice and lose it." According to the documents of Zhou Dynasty, Qu Zi can be interpreted as the mother of wine or "wine". For example, in Du Fu's poem "Return", there is "Who will give Song, consider Lao Jiang's work"; There's a poem by Chen Yaosheng called "The road is long, but it's Xiu Yuan Xi", and here "Qu Ci" also refers to "wine".

Qu is interpreted as yeast in Ci Yuan, which is the fermentation product of wine-making or sauce-making, also called Qu. The simplified word for Qu or Ju is Qu. The development of Qu, through continuous technical improvement, developed from Sanqu to Pancake Qu, and finally formed Daqu and Xiaoqu. Aspergillus is the main microorganism in Daqu, which is suitable for cold weather in northern provinces. The raw materials for making Daqu are barley, peas or wheat. For example, the former is Fenjiu and xifeng liquor Daqu, while the latter is Maotai and Luzhou Daqu. Because the raw material of koji-making is wheat, it is often called wheat koji, which is brick-shaped, also known as brick koji, with large koji blocks and a large amount of koji, commonly known as Daqu, and famous wines are brewed by traditional Chinese techniques. The main microorganisms of Xiaoqu liquor are Rhizopus and Mucor, which is beneficial to the production of Xiaoqu liquor and Xiaoqu liquor under the warm subtropical climate in southern China. The raw material for making Xiaoqu is rice or rice bran, and some Chinese herbal medicines are added, such as Qionglai Rice Qu and Dongjiu Rice Qu. Some do not use Chinese herbal medicines, such as Xiamen white koji and barnyard bran koji. 1982, French microbiologist Calmet discovered a Rhizopus with strong saccharifying ability in China Xiaoqu, and used it to produce alcohol, which was named amino method or starch method, and was officially put into production in 1985. From 65438 to 0956, Mr. Fang began to study the classification and important physiological characteristics of Rhizopus isolated from Xiaoqu, and determined that Rhizopus was the main saccharifying bacteria of Xiaoqu.

Qu used in liquor can be roughly divided into three categories: Xiaoqu, Daqu and bran qu. Xiaoqu was widely produced in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, but it was greatly improved in the Song Dynasty, and its Rhizopus Xiaoqu became one of the best wine-making strains in the world. This Rhizopus ditty is widely spread in Korea, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Nepal, Bhutan, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, the Philippines and Japan (rice cultivation techniques and wine-making techniques were introduced from China), and its products are favored by foreign people.

Bran koji is an improvement of Mr. Fang's research on kaoliang liquor, and he advocates using Aspergillus to make koji, also known as fast koji, which is named because of its short koji-making time. Bran koji is directly used as saccharifying agent after koji making, which is generally used in a large amount, but it is still mistakenly called Daqu. To make wine, you must first make koji, and good koji can make good wine. This is achieved by cultivating beneficial bacteria, using microorganisms isolated from nature or artificially, secreting many complex enzymes and using their chemical properties.

Who started the brewing of liquor? Opinions vary. The poem "Zuo Zuo" from the Warring States Period: "Yidi made wine mash with five flavors", which is the earliest written record of wine making, spread to the Zhou Dynasty, and even Xu Shen's "Shuo Wen Jie Zi" in the Han Dynasty: "The ancients made wine mash with Yidi, and the taste was beautiful, driving Yidi away." Du Kang makes wine. Du Kang's winemaking theory has been widely praised so far, and even the Japanese call winemakers Du Shi. There is also Cao Cao's "Short Songs": "What is the geometry of life when singing about wine? How to solve the problem, only Du Kang ". It is a paradox that some people think that Du Kang is the ancestor of brewing. Song Gaocheng said in the book The Origin of Things: "I don't know who Du Kang is, but I have talked a lot about his wine-making in ancient and modern times", which shows that it is not clear which era Du Kang was from, not to mention the wine brewed by Du Kang in those days is by no means today's distilled wine.

Based on the development of human society and the theory of microbiology, it is considered that the origin of wine is fruit wine, followed by milk wine, and finally distilled wine brewed for grain (grain) is found, which is a topic of discussion. Sugary juice, if it comes into contact with the skin, is often accompanied by yeast. At the right temperature, fruit juice will ferment into wine. Milk of animals and livestock, which contains lactose, is also fermented by yeast into milk wine. Grain brewing is much more complicated. The carbohydrate in grain is not sugar, but starch, which needs to be decomposed into sugar by amylase, and then the sugar is turned into wine by yeast's brewing enzyme. The earliest grain wine in China is yellow rice wine, which is also called fermented wine. Without distillation, the present distilled liquor, namely China white liquor, will appear, which is related to the distiller.

Liquor was also called shochu in the Tang Dynasty, and it often appeared in poems of past dynasties. Bai Xiangshan has a poem: "Litchi is newly cooked with a cockscomb color, and shochu is fragrant with amber first"; Tao Yong also wrote a poem: "Since I went to Chengdu to make soju, I don't want to go to Chang 'an. "It can be seen that shochu was already produced in Sichuan at that time. Liquor often appears in ancient poetry, such as Li Bai's "new wine will return to the mountains"; Bai Juyi's Yellow Chicken and Liquor shows that liquor in the Tang Dynasty is shochu, also called burning spring. To study the origin of liquor, we should first take distiller as evidence. Mr. Fang thought that there were still distilled spirits in the Song Dynasty (History of Natural Science, Volume 6, No.2 1987), but in 1934 he said that there were still distilled spirits in the Tang Dynasty (Investigation Report of the Yellow Sea Chemical Industry Research Association, No.7). 1975 The bronze distiller of the Jin Dynasty unearthed in Qinglong County, Chengde City, Hebei Province, is believed to be at the latest in the Jin Shizong period of 1 1 year (the time of Xiaozong in the Southern Song Dynasty). According to the discovery of western 10 or1century distillation, it is possible to obtain earlier ethanol (alcohol) from fermented drinks. However, since16th century, the direct preparation of ethanol from grain raw materials and its beverage products similar to alcohol and water have been widely used.

Since the founding of New China, the liquor industry has developed rapidly. In terms of the quality of liquor, 1952 selected eight famous liquors in China at the first national wine tasting, among which four kinds of liquor were called the four famous liquors in China. Subsequently, it was held continuously until the fifth national wine tasting, and * * * named 17 kinds of national famous wines and 55 kinds of high-quality wines; From 65438 to 0979, the third national wine tasting was held, and the wine samples were divided into five types: Maotai-flavor type, Fen-flavor type, Luzhou-flavor type, Rice-flavor type and other types, which were collectively called the five flavor types of China liquor. Later, other flavor types developed into five flavor types: sesame flavor, concurrent flavor, phoenix flavor, lobster sauce flavor and special flavor, which were also called the top ten flavor types of China liquor. From the perspective of liquor output, the national liquor output in 1949 was only108,000 tons, and reached a peak of 80130,000 tons in 1996, which was 80 times that in the early days of the People's Republic of China. In recent years, it has basically stabilized at around 3.5 million tons, with 37,000 registered enterprises and hundreds of thousands of employees nationwide. Judging from the tax benefits of liquor, the annual tax benefits for the country are about 654.38+0.2 billion, second only to the tobacco industry, and its economic benefits have always been among the best in liquor products. From the perspective of liquor science and technology, the central government organized national scientific and technological forces to carry out summary experiments, such as Yantai liquor-making operation method, Sichuan waxy sorghum Xiaoqu operation method, Kweichow Moutai liquor-making, LU ZHOU LAO JIAO CO.,LTD Co., Ltd., Shanxi liquor-making new technology and so on, and all achieved outstanding results. People in the industry agree that summing up the pilot is scientific research, and scientific research is the development force. From the perspective of liquor technology, its production can be divided into Xiaoqu method, Daqu method, bran koji method and liquid method (new technology liquor). Traditional solid-state fermentation is used to produce famous liquor, and the new technology is universal liquor, which accounts for 70% of the total liquor production in China. From the perspective of liquor development, the focus of the national liquor industry is to encourage low-alcohol yellow rice wine and wine, control the total production of liquor, take market demand as the guide, save grain and meet consumption as the goal, and conscientiously implement the direction of "high quality, low-alcohol liquor, multiple varieties, low consumption, less pollution and high efficiency".

Liquor is an alcoholic beverage handed down from generation to generation in China. Through the follow-up research and summary work, the traditional technology has been improved, such as from workshop operation to industrial production, from side-by-side operation to semi-mechanical operation, from dictation to heart-to-heart transmission, from flexible mastery to written information transmission. All these have enabled the liquor industry to continuously develop and innovate, improve the production technology level and product quality, and a number of production enterprises have become large-scale backbone enterprises in China, making important contributions to the country. We should inherit and develop this precious national specialty, carry forward the excellent liquor culture of the Chinese nation, and let the liquor industry carry forward.

China Wine Network