The Inheritance System of Hanfu Culture

After thousands of years of inheritance from the Western Zhou Dynasty, Hanfu was fully displayed and systematized in the Tang Dynasty, such as clothes, leather clothes, drapery clothes, naked clothes, pleated clothes, drapery clothes and crotch clothes. Made in the Tang Dynasty, Tiandi's clothes include Daegu cotton, Zhoumian, Zhumian, Mianmian, Xuanmian, Guan, Wumi, Heijiemi, white gauze hat, plain scarf and so on, all of which are twelve grades. Service to the public is like a king's service from the crown; Hou's clothing, from the owl's crown to the public's clothing; Children's and men's clothes, such as Hou's clothes, all come down from the crown; Lonely clothes, such as children's clothes from the crown; Dr. Green's clothes, like lonely clothes from Xuan Ming; Scholars' clothes are like doctors' clothes from below the skin. Its fasting clothes have mysterious endings and dull endings.

Zhou rites had an important influence on the costumes of the Zhou Dynasty and its descendants. Hanfu culture is a thousand-year-old unchangeable system based on Zhou Li. After textual research and inheritance in the Han, Tang, Song and Ming Dynasties, through the Confucian book history system, Book of Rites, Book of the Later Han Dynasty, Yu Fu Xia, Fu, Nanqi Yu Fu and Wei Li April 13th, the twelve grades of China men's clothing are ranked from high to low as follows. Clothing, moon, stars, mountains, Longhua worms; Type, Zong Yi algae fire powder rice thorns six chapters. Sacrifice to Heaven, Sacrifice to God, Five Emperors, Crown, Twelve Xuanyi, Dress, Nine Chapters. Clothing, mountain dragon worm; Type, enjoy the first emperor; On a pilgrimage by a vassal, he was crowned with nine chapters-seven chapters in red. Clothes, insects, fire and Zong Yi; There are four chapters: petticoats, algae, powdered rice, flounder and glutinous rice. Enjoy the first public, entertainment (eating guests), shooting (shooting with princes); Hou Bo, Sangong, Guan Qi-Qi Kun, five chapters. Clothes, Zong Yi, seaweed and rice noodles are three chapters; Chapter two: Shang, Fu and Fu. Worship four scenery, mountains and rivers; Zi Gong, VI Qing Xi Mianmian [Mianmian] five chapters-Red. Clothes, rice noodles; The second chapter of petticoat, serving the country and five sacrifices; Four-life doctor Xuanzang's three chapters-red flame. Clothes without chapters; The chapter of "Shang Ci Fu" is dedicated to the small groups that offer sacrifices (Lin Ze, Fenyan, Sifang); Wax god, the second time to be crowned. Red is slightly black, like a knight's head, small in front and big in the back. Since the third generation, it has been eight inches wide, two inches long and thirty liters of cloth. Pure clothes, red ribbons, ancestral halls; Zhu, Zong, Zaifu and Yong; Above grade 9, the Wei Wei Wei Guan (for Soap Silk) is the military affairs of Duan Xuan Su Shang (Fold); Driving pro-Rong, martial law clothes at home and abroad, leather, crown (deerskin for it), clothing and hemp, leader, plain clothes (white cloth, plain clothes), white ribbon, plain cloth.

[The front is seven inches high, the back is three inches high and the length is eight inches. The prince is three cool, under two thousand stones, with the doctor's crimson gauze robe and soap on the clothes. Qu Dai Jian, Pei, and ribbon accompany the sacrifice, enjoy the gift, and show respect. The military attache wears a robe (cage crown), a crimson gauze robe and black leather boots, and goes out to talk about the official costume of the temple with a bow and big sleeves. He wore a horizontal bow, purple leather coat, more than three black boots and four or five. Kings and princes transmit lawsuits to a person's life; When I made a pilgrimage to the East Palace, I saw the scholar-officials wearing a crowned deep coat (Zhu's deep coat), white muslin, four skirts, twelve skirts, a round collar, black shoelaces with slanting black edges, and hoodies, black hats, soap shirts and our school uniforms at the corners of the shoes, which served the wedding, sacrifice, banquet and communication of the scholar-officials. Scholar-bureaucrat's communication uniform; Guo Zisheng's uniform is thin white cloth, with round neck and big sleeves, and a horizontal sash at the lower part. Jinshi has a belt around his waist, Guo Zisheng and Zhou Xiansheng wear a uniform soapy shirt and hat, and Chu Shi and Shu Ren wear white, white gauze, single coat and black leather shoes. The mourning coronation was born in the Western Zhou Dynasty. With the revival of the Zhou Dynasty, it was in the Hanfu system from the Han Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty. The Millennium continuation of coronation is the persistence of China culture. There are six kinds of crowns in the Zhou Dynasty, such as Daqiu Crown, Changguan, Jingguan, Changguan, Guanxuan and so on, which are worn according to the needs of different occasions. Six crowns sometimes appear in other forms of appellation in the trend of thought of restoring rites in the past dynasties after Han Dynasty. Among the six crowns, the most commonly used one is the tattooed crown. The crown is the most gorgeous dress in the crown, and its characteristics different from other crowns are mainly the number of crowns (12) and the number of articles (12 or 9 chapters, slightly different according to different dynasties). As the first of the six crowns, the symbol of the big crown is the noblest and most unique. A complete coronation suit generally consists of coronation suit, coat, petticoat, underwear, waist, socks, waist, belt (belt, large belt), knee, jade, ribbon, sword, laurel, etc. 14. The difference between the six crowns in the Zhou Dynasty can be distinguished by the number of twelve products. Where there is a coronation ceremony, there must be corresponding "articles". The articles that have been widely used are twelve chapters: Sun, Moon, Stars, Mountains, Dragons, China Insects, Zong Yi, Algae, Fire, Rice Noodles, Squid and Squid. "Zhou Li" began to spread the pattern of six crowns, and then established the naming standard of six crowns, as well as the "color" provisions of the crown's shape and picture, the crown's clothes and skirts, the crown's full set of clothes, the crown's ornaments and the crown's badge, all of which were due to the crown system in Zhou Li. The Book of Changes said, "The Yellow Emperor is Yao and Shun, and he listens to politics behind the curtain. Gaiqu Zhu Gankun ""Shangshu? Shundian: "... (the son of heaven) patrolled for five years, followed the DPRK, applied words, worked hard, and served." "Tao Tao Ink": "Destiny has virtue, five clothes and five chapters (Zhang). It can be seen that in the Yao-Shun era of the Yellow Emperor, there were provisions on crown clothing, and there were also relevant literature on this theory. Based on this, we can know the lofty realm of this service provision.

"History? Yi Ji: "I want to see the images of the ancients: the sun, the moon, stars, mountains, dragons, China insects ... and apply the five-color seal to the five colors as clothing. Ruming "Another example is The Book of Rites?" ""and "Internal Rules": "Sacrifice to Heaven and Son, and provide for the aged with thick clothes; Xia Houshi accepted sacrifices, Yan Yi, and provided for the elderly; Yin people sacrifice, wear clothes and support the elderly; Sacrifice in the week, announce the ceremony to support the aged. All "Huang", "Shou", "Guan" and so on are synonyms for the sacrificial crowns of Yu, Xia, Shang and Zhou, and the name "Guan" seems to be unique in the Zhou Dynasty. However, because there is no evidence in historical documents, the similarities and differences of these four crowns are unknown. If we use Oracle Bone Inscriptions's textual research, it should be that there were crowns, acceptors and crowns in the Yin Dynasty, which are the same system, but with different names. According to another record: Wang Yin used this crown as the ceremonial crown of the throne, "Shangshu? Tai Jia: "Yi Yin was crowned as the heir of Bo (Shangqiu, Henan Province)." Therefore, the system of chapter and clothing seen in the above picture has laid a foundation for future generations for thousands of years. All previous dynasties considered it to be the real legacy of Yu Yu, and later generations followed suit. The prophet made his clothes for the top, and later learned to imitate his clothes for the bottom, and the clothes were prepared. Huangdi, Yao and Shun hung down their clothes and covered them on Zhu Gankun, so the clothes were mysterious and yellow. Looking at the flowers on the sidelines, the grass and trees were dyed in five colors. At the beginning, it was an article showing nobility and inferiority, and the world was rational. Yu Shu said, "I want to see the images of the ancients. The sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons and China insects are embroidered, and Zong Yi, seaweed, fire, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice are embroidered. "Prepare chapter 12. The first six chapters are in clothes, and the last six chapters are in clothes. Draw pictures and embroider on it. " The sun, the moon and the stars receive their light; Mountain, take its town also; Dragon, change it; Han worm, pheasant, take its text also; Yes, I can draw. Tiger Zong Yi, take his filial piety; Algae and aquatic plants should be cleaned; Fire, take its glory; Powder rice, white rice, take it and raise it; If it is axe-shaped, take it off; For two people, take the difference; I thought it was embroidery. The sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons and China insects are all painted on clothes, while dates, fire, decimeters, blessings and Nuo are also embroidered on clothes, which is the so-called twelve chapters. Pickers are green, yellow, red, white and black. Colors and characters are applied to silk. Painting on clothes and embroidering on dresses are all mixed with five colors. "

Establishing the standard of six crowns' names

Each of the six crowns mentioned in Zhou Li has its own naming basis. Specializing in exploring its roots is out of Shangshu? Shundian Zheng Xuan in the later Han Dynasty noted: "I want to see the images of the ancients: the sun, the moon, the stars, the mountains, the dragons and the insects, and draw them. Zong Xun, seaweed, fire, pink rice, Fu, Fu embroidery. Put the "five colors" on the "five colors" as clothing, and you will know. The name of the six crowns is named according to the above words: starting from the highest "big crown", it is named after the pattern of the coat, which means "taking the first chapter as the meaning". There is no decoration on the "big hill face" in the six crowns of Gain, and all the other five crowns have pictures and texts, based on the odd numbers of nine, seven, five, three and one. This kind of pictures and texts has its own proper name, which is called "service chapter". Twelve kinds of pictures and texts are called "twelve service chapters", which are used in turn according to the rank of emperor and duke. If there are no pictures or words on the coat, name it after the color of the coat.

(1) Heavy hair: Its fur is named after the skin of "black" lambs (suckling sheep). "Zhou Li? Note: "Heavy hair, heavy hair." Jia Gong Yan Shu ... However, all sacrificial clothes are the same as lambs' fur, which is of certain significance to Qiu Si. 」

(2) Zhou Mian: According to Zheng Xuan's "Rites of Zhou", there is a saying that Zhou is also, and Long Wen is the first to serve. "Climb (ascend) the Dragon and climb the fire of Zongqiu. Therefore, "Zhou" was named after the so-called "Climbing the Mountain Dragon, Climbing the Fire of Zongxun", saying: The map system was changed to the so-called "Shangshu", that is, the map was dragon, mountain, Han worm, fire, Zongxun and algae ........... Since then, all actions in the past dynasties have been subject to Zheng's note. This pattern has been followed throughout the ages. 1 1. According to their hue, they are divided into various colors or "paintings" or "embroideries" to display.

There is also a flat crown black interface, now called flat crown. Soap table, next to Zhu, is seven feet wide and two inches long. Twelve beads are hung on it, with Zhu group as the tassel. The clothes are purple, three in front and four in the back. Clothes are painted and embroidered, which are the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, China insects, seaweed, fire, pink rice, flounder and haze. The plain belt is four inches wide and the side is decorated with vermilion and green. Use cinnabar in the middle, hang green and hang three feet. Hanfu, crimson, served by the leader, red leather, crimson socks and red fetters.

(3) Badminton: It covers seven chapters of badminton with China insects on it. Harrier, the worm in China. Zhou Li Note: "When an owl draws a pheasant, it is called the China worm. Its clothes have three chapters, and its clothes have four chapters, all of which are seven chapters. " Shu: "China insects, five-color insects, note that China is like grass;" Bugs, pheasants. Righteousness also makes sense. 」

(4), enamel: enamel, fine hair. Shu Yun, Four Blessings: "I also know that those who set fire to the east will die. Zheng Xuan's Note: Zheng Sinong said: Yi Yi, Yi Yi also. " Xuan said: I, the tiger, I, that is, I am also a sect. Three chapters on clothes, two chapters on clothes. "Because both the tiger and the scorpion have a combined scorpion (white fluff), they are collectively called scorpions, which is the code name." The explanation of the beast in Er Ya is: "Hey, a long-haired upturned nose." Note, "Mi is as big as a macaque". So Mi is a long-tailed monkey (Minhui). The tiger elephant is powerful and the monkey elephant is smart.

(5) Black face: Black face has three chapters, the first chapter is "decimeter". Biography of Yu Shu: The Theory of Gezhijing. Confucius said, "Algae, fire, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice are embroidered on the bougainvillea." "The later useless, cover (dangerous) quality (Jane), summer embroidery for the sacrifice. Zheng Note: "I hope reading is a mistake, or making a mistake." Almost "haze" is needle haze, that is, embroidery skill, and its statement is credible.

(6) Xuanmian: Xuanmian is named after the color of clothes. Notes in Four Clothes and Xuanmian: "Xuanren has no clothes; It's just a thorn. Therefore, it is called Xuan. " Shu: "it's mysterious to take its sacrificial clothes;" This chapter of Xuanmian is called Xuanmian, and there is no painting on the coat. A chapter is just a thorn in the skirt. Therefore, it is mysterious. " The cover begins with nine chapters of The Crown. Then the number of "chapters" gradually decreased. They are all single and double, like "Yang" and "Yin". Down to the "Xuanmian", there is no badge on the top, and there is only one chapter on the bottom. The coat color is mysterious, so it is called "mysterious face".

Cultural connotation of coronation

1, Yan (Crown Edition): Add "Yan" (ten thousand) to the crown and back of the front circle, which is like the way of heaven and earth. Low before and high after to show humility.

2. nothing is wrong. Every crown is inferior, and there are pendants, and the number of pendants is different. Well-designed "hidden" Righteousness lies in the future. This jade has five colors: red, blue, yellow, white and black. Han changed it to monochrome white jade beads. Jade and coral were used in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Ming used all kinds of pearls and collected five groups of jade, symbolizing the number of twelve months in a year. The rest of the crown characters are odd numbers, which belong to yang numbers, that is, auspicious numbers. "Book of Rites Jade Algae" says: "There are two jade algae in ten, stretching back and forth, and the dragon rolls it as a sacrifice." "The Book of Rites Special Sacrifice in the Suburbs" says: "When you worship the day, you look at the sky. If you wear a crown, if there are ten, there are two, then the number of days is also."

Colors of Coronation Costumes in Past Dynasties: Mysterious Costumes and Dresses

"Xuan" is the combination of "black" and "red". On the other hand, in China's philosophical theory, it is the ideological color that best symbolizes "heaven" in the ancient Chinese clothing system. The ancestors used the expression "Xuan imitates the sky" as a metaphor for the phrase in the Book of Changes "Liu": "The dragon fights in the wild, and the blood is mysterious and yellow". As mentioned in the last chapter, it is because the heaven is deep and far away, and it is difficult to peep, just like a "darkness". Generally speaking, the connotation of "promoting red in the dark" is mysterious, which provides endless life resources to educate, nurture and benefit all beings. Therefore, dark darkness is the most revered coronation ceremony, which is the embodiment of China's traditional thought of "protecting the people is king". The use of clothes, these written records first appeared in Zhou Li's notes. "Zhou Li": "Sifu, Zhang Wang's good or bad clothes" Note: "All coronation dresses are mysterious dresses." Woven color, that is, the composite color of red, yellow and white. Later Han Dynasty: Metaphysics, Zhu Lvli.

Yu Jin Fu Zhishu: Soap table, Zhu Lvli.

Yu Jin Fu Zhishu: Soap table, Zhu Lvli.

"Sui Shu Etiquette Tongzhi": "Declare the table, all laws and interests".

Tang Shu: "Black watch, dark inside".

"Ming History: Records of the Imperial Government": "In the sixteenth year of Hongwu, the coronation system was established. Behind the crown circle, there are twelve flowers before and after, five flowers in five, twelve pearls in jade, five flowers in silk, ten and two are separated by one inch, and the red silk group tassels; When you are deaf, Hosta guides you. Hongwu twenty-six years, the will is more determined. The crown edition is one foot two inches wide and two feet four inches long. The crown cover, the yuan table Zhu Li, and the rest are like the old system. " In the third year of Yongle, he was crowned with soap gauze. On the top, it is said that the copper plate is of high quality, the clothes are colorful, and the front ring is at the back. Yuheng maintains the crown, and the Hosta connects buttons, buttons and crowns are tassels, all of which are decorated with gold. Both sides meet their needs, with Xuanyi as the link and Tang Baiyu and Zhu Yi as the inheritors. 」

"The History of the Later Han Dynasty Yu Fuzhi": "The clothes are dark; The color of the bottom. 」

Yu Jin Fu Zhi: "Its clothes are soap (black). The first three, the last four; Clothes are painted and embroidered. Hanfu tied its leader in crimson. " "The lower skirt is crimson; A four-inch wide ordinary belt. Red skin is an arrow. Crimson socks. Plain belt, beads, decorated with vermilion green (edge). 」

"Sui Shu Etiquette" by Liang in the Southern Dynasties: "Put on your clothes and soap them; Su Dai, Zhu Li and Zhu Xiu are the leading figures in Chinese clothing. " "Wei, red skin. Crimson socks. 」

Northern Wei Dynasty "Sui Shu? Etiquette ":"The coat is made of soap. Take the soap coat and the edge will be crimson. " "This dress is dark red. The first three and the last four. Zhu Bi, crimson socks. 」

Sui Shu Li Zhi: "The coat is dark black. Xuan Yi, Yi, Jin Zhi Cheng Long, white gauze inside, coat collar. "The next dress is colored. There are three chapters: Shang Yi, Autumn Ear Coloring and Dragon Volcano. 」

Tang Shu Che Fuzhi: "The Dragon Crown is deep in Tsing Yi." Big fur, black lamb watch, black collar, black collar, hem, and white gauze. ""Zhu Shang, Shang Yan. Nuo takes tapirs as the object, wears clothes in different colors, and draws three chapters: dragon, fire and mountain. 」

Songshi Yusi: "The sacrificial clothes of ministers were made in the Tang Dynasty. Blue clothes, Fei clothes, Fei knees. 」

"History of Ming Dynasty Jade Fu Zhi": "Clothes, white Dan (plain yarn for it), green." ""yellow clothes cover your knees with clothes color (red knees), and your waist is full of products, which makes you embarrassed. Embroider dragons, fire and mountains. 」

Coronation dress: red.

According to ancient ceremonies, the colors of coronation dresses, plaques and plaques all have their established standards: the color of plaques depends on plaques, and the color of plaques depends on plaques. Prediction: the color of clothes (light crimson), the color of clothes, so use red, the same color as clothes. The color of the decoration is a "secondary color" with black, black and red as straight lines and opposite directions.

"The History of the Later Han Dynasty Jade Fu Zhi": covered in red; Barefoot shoes.

"Yu Jin Fu Zhi Shu": covered in red; Akasaka

Sui Shu etiquette records in the Southern and Northern Dynasties: covered in red;

1 Etiquette of the Sui Dynasty: full-length clothes in scarlet, red and gold; Zhu socks, red enamel, enamel decorated with gold.

"Tang Shu Che Fuzhi": covered in red; Red socks, red socks.

"Ming Shi Yu Fu Zhi": "Huang Manyi; Yellow socks and gold ornaments. " "Red-footed clothes; Red socks, red socks. " "Socks and socks are red. 」

Coronation items and colors

The coronation of the twelve service badges, one after another, has its inherent spiritual meaning, the characteristics of national culture and the significance of ethics and philosophy. This is the symbol of China's eternal clothing culture thought, which encourages people to be kind and is full of the meaning of respecting heaven, rejuvenating ancestors and courtesy. There are only five chapters in Shangshu, namely, "playing with words, trying skills, and wearing mediocre clothes", "five clothes and five chapters" and "only clothes in the bag". The idea of "the unity of Tao and heaven" has originated from many sages' theories since ancient times. Like the sun, the moon and the stars, it seems that everything happens and everything is cultivated. Mountain dragon takes sex rain as its profession, and can adapt to touching things and help people match the sky. The fire is bright and burning; ... is an emphasis on spiritual understanding and worship. Like a tiger, Meng Yan; Wisdom is like SHEN WOO's rebellion. Fans. Elephants can be cut down. It is the spirit of caring for the people and respecting others, or whether the monarch and the minister can help each other.

According to records, all the twelve badges of coronation dresses, that is, twelve statues, are embroidered with five-color clothes. The following are solid colors:

Longshan love; Chinese worm yellow; Zong Baiyu; Seaweed and fire are red; And the sun, the moon and the stars are absent-minded It is said: "Five colors are obvious, and when they are applied to five colors, it is a suit of respect and inferiority. You know how to do it. " Sparse: "Sun, Moon, Stars, Mountains, Rivers, Dragons, Dragons, Chinese Insects, Five-color Painting. ... its five colors of algae, fire, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice are embroidered and applied to the five colors for clothing. " Cai Shen was quoted as saying in the coronation chapter of Da Xuebu: "The gatherers are green, yellow, red, white and black. Color and words are applied to silk. " Zheng: Yes, reading is painting ... It reads like promise, promise and meaning. From the day, the month to the haze, every twelve chapters, the son of heaven thought it was a sacrifice. Every painter paints for himself; The thorn is embroidery. There are six kinds of embroidered paintings, one is clothes and the other is clothes. Jia Shu: "Those who make silks also paint silks." . Clothes are yang, yang is frivolous, painting is frivolous, so clothes are also. Jun Zheng pronounced "Xi" as "fu", "fu" and "clothes", and called "tattoo" embroidery. But the petticoat is mainly yin, and the thorn is also profound, so the petticoat is stabbed. 」

According to research, since the Han Dynasty, all Confucian scholars have said that clothes are painted and embroidered. All previous dynasties' systems were based on this principle, or changed to weaving. She Xiang

Take a picture of a dress with a mysterious crown and a plain dress with a mysterious ending in the country. The deacon wears a crown, clothes and linen, a soap leader, and a simple dress. The so-called skinny person is also.

Daxie

Fang and Zhu Shang were dressed in black, priests in red cloth and pleated, deacons in red, and Zhu Shang in Tsing Yi. Ji Li is a ritual system of offering sacrifices to gods and ancestors, and it is the highest etiquette in China. Sacrificial clothing includes six crowns and knighthood. Scholars helped to offer sacrifices to the nobles and offered their own sacrifices to Duan Xuan. The scholar's wife wears a robe to help sacrifice. See the chart for other details.