Embroidered shoes of different nationalities

Yesanguan, Badong County, Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hubei Province is the birthplace of Tujia cloth shoes, and its Tujia registered trademark is engaged in production and sales. The local Hubei local company is the only legal holder of Tujia trademark, and the number of local workers engaged in embroidered cloth shoes has reached 1500. So far, a large number of embroidered cloth shoes technologies have been retained.

Aquarium embroidered shoes

Shui people call themselves (Sui&; Sup3& ampsup3), commonly known as Shuijia, Shuijia Temple, etc. The current surname water system comes from self-proclaimed transliteration. Shui people mainly live in Sandu County, Libo, Dushan, Duyun, Kaili and other counties and cities in Guizhou, with a few scattered in Guangxi, Yunnan and other provinces.

The shoe ornaments of Shui people have many same-sex characteristics with Miao, Yao, Zhuang and Dong people in Yunnan-Guizhou area, and they like to wear embroidered shoes with hooks. The production technology of embroidered shoes of Shui nationality is very particular. First, cut out the sole model with dried bamboo shoots, and thicken it layer by layer with old cloth to make a thousand layers of bottom. Then, the cut shoe masks are embroidered with flannel, with various patterns, mostly flowers and birds, and sometimes wool balls are embroidered on the toe; Finally, sew the upper and the bottom. Generally speaking, it takes 2-3 weeks for a skilled woman to make a pair of embroidered shoes, and it takes longer for an ordinary woman to finish it.

The sole is made of a thousand layers of cloth, the upper is made of red cloth, and the heel is made of blue cloth. The toe cap is turned upward into a pointed shape, the upper is embroidered with silk thread into a background color pattern, and then curled with ponytail embroidery into various geometric patterns, such as flowers and clouds. Exquisite embroidery and exquisite workmanship. Most aquarium women wear them on solemn occasions or when visiting relatives and friends, with pleated skirts and silver button tops, which are very elegant and luxurious.

Dong women's sandals

Dong people are mainly distributed in Guizhou, Guangxi and Hunan. Because of the humid climate in this area, the clothes are mainly skirts, leggings and sandals with good air permeability. What is on display here are embroidered sandals that are deeply loved by Dong women. This shoe is hand-sewn with cloth and the sole is hemp thread. Technology is very particular. The shape of shoes is also very unique. As long as there is an upper at the back, the toe cap is connected with the toe cap with a slender cloth strip, which is simple, lively and durable. Flower embroidery is embroidered on thin strips, tails, etc., and dotted with metal sheets, which highlights the meticulous style of Dong embroidery and shows the colorful traditional culture of Dong nationality. Such shoes are not only cool and practical to wear, but also beautiful and generous.

Dongxiuhuaxie

Dong people call themselves Geng, Jun or Jin, while Han people call themselves Dong Shi or Dong people. Mainly engaged in rice cultivation, known as the rice-growing nation. What you see are embroidered shoes worn by Dong women. Shoes are made of thousands of layers of cotton thread, and the toe is double-beam pointed. The whole vamp consists of blue cloth and red cloth, with abstract geometric patterns embroidered on the front and sequins in the middle. The heel of the shoe is sewn with black cloth with a hook cloud pattern.

Zhuang people's embroidered shoes on their backs.

"Back" embroidered shoes are often worn by women. There is a hook on the toe, like a dragon boat. There are two kinds: with and without. The sole is thick and made of sandpaper. Qi Zhen, traction stitch, mixed stitch, loop stitch, pile stitch, pressure stitch, etc. In terms of color, young people like to use white flowers with bright background, such as pomegranate red, crimson, cyan, yellow, green, etc., and the patterns include dragon pattern, double lion bowling, iris and magpie. Old people often use black, light red, deep red and other colors, and the patterns include clouds, dragons, heaven and earth, lions and beasts. What is on display here is the embroidered shoes of the Zhuang nationality's "back" women. The toe of the shoe is triangular and conical, and the toe is "turning back". The vamp is made of blue cloth and embroidered with flowers and plants with yellow, red and green lines. Sole is made of Melaleuca material, with fine stitches and durability.

Hakka without foot binding

In the Hakka Museum in Ganzhou, Jiangxi, there are a number of special embroidered shoes, which are particularly eye-catching. These embroidered shoes are bigger than the traditional three-inch golden lotus. These are embroidered shoes worn by Hakka women when they get married. Because they never bind their feet, they are very big.

In the history of China, Hakka women are the only group of Han women who have no bad habit of foot binding. Why don't Hakka women bind their feet?

Experts believe that Hakka women take part in productive labor just like men, and even most heavy physical labor such as plowing and chopping wood is done by women. The responsibilities of life and family make Hakka women have to have a pair of big feet to bear, which is also an important reason why Hakka women do not bind their feet. Of course, this is not the only reason. The fact that Hakka women don't bind their feet is also related to the living conditions of Hakka people at that time. Because Hakka people live in mountainous areas and are far away from the constraints of imperial ethics, their living customs are often frozen in the state of moving south and continue in a relatively closed form.

Hakka traditional embroidery woman's shoe

"In the Hakka Museum in Ganzhou, Jiangxi, there are a number of Hakka traditional embroidered shoes with strange styles. To sum up, this kind of shoes has three characteristics: first, the toe is pointed upward, shaped like a phoenix mouth. " Second, the vamps are all made of cyan or black homespun, and the vamps are embroidered with auspicious patterns such as peony, chrysanthemum, pomegranate, phoenix and butterfly with colorful threads. The welt and the welt edge are inlaid with a colored piping, which makes the whole shoe look colorful, layered and solemn. Thirdly, the heel and vamp of shoes are divided into two different individuals, that is, the heel position is reserved when the vamp is made, and then the left and right ends of the vamp are connected with hemp thread and interwoven into a net to form the heel. Compared with ordinary shoes, the shoes made by this method have very soft heels and can be worn as slippers.

The decorations on ancient shoes have their special meanings, which have remained unchanged for hundreds of years. Embroidery in the Tang and Song Dynasties has developed into refinement. This is mainly determined by its social environment. In the feudal society where men plowed and women wove, there was no distinction between men and women in shoes before Qin and Han Dynasties, but the toe of shoes had to bend upward. The toe of the ancient shoes must be made into a square curved upturned style to remind the wearer to be cautious and not to look around. Since ancient times, girls have to learn needlework and master embroidery. With the development of economy, people's aesthetic concept has also changed greatly, so a new kind of embroidered women's shoes has appeared among women. . Compared with the clumsy pointed shoes in the past, these shoes are more exquisite and beautiful, and can fully display the graceful and feminine posture of women, so they are widely circulated among women and become the most popular shoe type in the Tang and Song Dynasties.

Comparing Hakka traditional embroidered shoes with "phoenix-tailed shoes" in Tang and Song Dynasties, it is not difficult to find similarities between them. This kind of shoes, once popular among women in urban and rural areas in the Central Plains, can still be preserved in Hakka areas after hundreds of years, which makes people admire how determined and persistent Hakka people are in inheriting the traditional culture of the Han nationality.

"Hakka's inheritance of the traditional culture of the Han nationality is not completely copied, but also includes the absorption of foreign cultures and the transformation of their own cultures. Although the traditional embroidered shoes of Hakkas are almost identical in appearance to those of the Tang and Song Dynasties, they are quite different in details, such as heels. "

The upper and heel of embroidered shoes in Tang and Song Dynasties are generally integrated, that is, the left and right ends of the upper are stitched together to form the heel. However, Hakka embroidered shoes are made of vamp and heel separately, and the heel is made of a net made of hemp thread. According to the author's research, there are two reasons why Hakkas want to make heels like this. First of all, Hakka women usually work in the fields. In addition to visiting relatives and friends during the Spring Festival, I generally don't wear shoes during the day. There will be a short chance to wear shoes after finishing work and washing feet at night. My feet are still wet at this time. For comfort, men usually wear wooden slippers. Women were bound by feudal ethics, so they had to change to cloth shoes in order to meet the requirements of "laughing without showing their teeth and walking without making any noise". According to the traditional shoemaking method, in order to make the vamp quite scraped, a layer of bamboo shell is often put on the vamp, so that although the vamp looks good, it is extremely uncomfortable to wear. Therefore, Hakka people use soft materials to make shoe roots, and embroidered shoes are made in this way, which is not only popular in Hakka areas in southern Jiangxi, but also in some ethnic minority areas outside Hakka areas. Occasionally, you can see the crocheted embroidered slippers of Maonan nationality in Guangxi, which is one of them. Second, once Hakka women get married, they become the main labor force in the family. Therefore, most of the headgear, shoes and socks they need in their lives should be arranged properly before marriage, that is, when they are "girls". This kind of shoes made in advance, it is difficult to take into account the size of the feet when wearing. If shoes are made according to the old traditional method, once the feet become fat or thin and the shoes don't fit, they have to be torn down and redone. According to the method used by Hakkas now, even if it doesn't fit in the future, it is only necessary to tighten or loosen the twine of the heel without affecting the upper.

"From the production of Hakka traditional embroidered shoes, we can also see how flexible and creative Hakka people are in inheriting traditional culture. On the basis of inheriting traditional culture, Hakka people have transformed and surpassed the original old culture and created a new culture with unique personality. This is the attitude of Hakka people towards the traditional culture of the Han nationality, and it is also the fundamental reason why Hakka culture is unique in the culture of the Han nationality.

Now, due to their remote mountainous areas, Sannan (Longnan, Dingnan, Quannan), Xunwu and Anyuan in southern Jiangxi have not only preserved a large number of Hakka enclosed houses, but also preserved many Hakka customs and cultural relics. Some Hakka women also cherish the embroidered daily necessities they wore when they got married and when their children were young, such as embroidered shoes, embroidered wallets and embroidered children's hats. These embroidery products have unique shapes, exaggerated patterns and rich colors.