Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - How to make soap base

How to make soap base

Soap base

Soap base is refined from vegetable oils, containing coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil, castor oil, glycerin and other nutritious and moisturizing elements, also known as soap granules.

Soap base is made of soap soap producers in the process of making soap by adding salt, so that glycerin, lye, water and soap base separated from the soap base, and the formation of 100% soap soap base. The soap base is then pressed into a beautiful shape by a machine and then sold. This kind of soap can be used immediately, but it lacks the most important essence of cold soaps - glycerin.

Handmade Soap

Handmade Soap Making Stuff

Do it yourself, make a bar of red wine soap

Tools

Glasses: for stirring the ingredients. It is best to choose heat-resistant glassware due to the heat generated in the making. Never use aluminum.

Spoon: used to dissolve caustic soda, can also be replaced by a stirrer, again avoid aluminum products.

Stirrer: used to stir the ingredients, can be replaced by a large spoon, avoid aluminum products.

Molds

Milk cartons, packaging for potato chips, plastic boxes and so on can be

Water 50ml

Red wine 50ml

Any of the brand-name products can be used. Drinking the leftovers can also be put to effective use again.

Cooking oil 250g

Vegetable oils such as olive oil can be used well to use new oil. This is good for the skin.

Caustic soda 30g

Can be purchased at the pharmacy due to the fact that it is a toxic substance purchase requires a letter of introduction from the unit. Be careful not to touch it directly with your hands.

Safety measures when making soap

Caustic soda will produce foam when it reacts chemically with water, so make the soap outdoors and wear gloves, a mask and glasses. Avoid aluminum, copper, iron and polyethylene products. Heat-resistant glass, plastic and stainless steel products should be used to prevent caustic soda from deteriorating.

Making Steps

1. Dissolve the caustic soda with water, put the water and caustic soda in a container, and keep stirring until the water becomes transparent. It should be noted that foaming and heating will occur during the stirring process.

2. Put in the oil while stirring, and after the caustic soda is completely dissolved, put in the oil gradually while stirring. Stir with a blender for about 10 minutes.

3. Pour in the red wine.

4. Continue to stir carefully, and continue to stir carefully for about 10 minutes until the red wine is thoroughly and evenly distributed. At this point, the liquid begins to gradually thicken.

5. Inject it into the mold, stop stirring, and after two or three minutes, inject it into the mold.

6. Leave it as it is for 1~2 days in a warm place. At this time, the liquid creates a chemical reaction in the mold, so please do not touch it with your hands.

7. To remove the soap from the mold, insert a knife or scissors into the mold for smooth removal.

8. the final finish, cut into appropriate size square, placed in a ventilated place, avoid direct sunlight, put more than a month later, the production is complete.

Absolutely simple, absolutely safe

Instant production method based on ordinary soap raw material powder, 4 days can be completed.

1. Preparation items: soap raw material powder 100g, 70ml red wine.

2. Pour red wine into the soap raw material powder, pour red wine into the container with soap raw material powder, soap raw material powder is finer, pay attention to not fly apart.

3. Carefully and carefully together, like and clay mud, carefully and the two together. The red wine should be evenly distributed.

4. Pour into molds and leave for 4 days. Fill the molds with the sum and leave as is for 4 days. Be careful to fill it solidly and not to mix in the air.

5. Remove from the mold, use a knife or scissors to cut the mold, the soap should be removed.

6. Red wine soap is made, it will be divided into easy to use the size of the red wine soap production is completed, you can immediately put into use.

Some soap making method

Milky soap making method

Materials

1. coconut oil 170 grams

2. sunflower oil 170 grams

3. palm oil 114 grams

4. sodium hydroxide 75 grams

5. water 202 grams

6. A few alkaline-resistant water-based colors

7. 10ml of essential oil

8. A few dried plants

9. Molds

Tools

1. 1 heat-resistant container (stainless steel pot)

2. 1 plastic, glass, or magnetic container

3. 1 thermometer

4. 1 bamboo or wooden stick

5. gloves

Steps

I. Put coconut oil, sunflower oil and palm oil in a heat-resistant container in proportion to each other.

II. Put water into a plastic or glass container, add sodium hydroxide and stir until the sodium hydroxide is completely dissolved (it is normal for the dissolution process to be hot).

Three. The oil in step 1 is heated under water and then boiled to make it transparent.

Four. Measure the temperature of the oil with a thermometer and keep it between 35 degrees and 40 degrees.

5. When the mixture of sodium hydroxide and water in step 2 cools down to 35 degrees 40 degrees, pour it into the oil in step 4 and stir continuously for about 40 minutes to make the two saponification reaction until the two solutions are completely mixed into a mayonnaise-like shape i.e., soap base, and the next step can be carried out.

VI. Add your favorite essential oils to the well-mixed soap base.

VII. Add the dried plants you want to make and mix well again.

VIII. Add the alkali resistant water-based coloring and mix well.

9. Grease the mold with oil (white wax oil or salad oil).

X. Pour the soap base from step 8 into the mold, cover with a towel and place in a warm, ventilated area.

XI. Remove the soap from the mold after it has hardened (about 1 to 3 days) and allow it to dry naturally in a ventilated area for about five weeks

.

Transparent soap making method

Materials

1. Transparent soap base (depending on the number of models)

2. 10ml of essential oils

3. A little bit of alkaline-resistant water-based coloring

4. A little bit of dried plants (decorations)

5. Models

Tools

1. Heat-resistant 1 heat-resistant container (stainless steel pot)

2. 1 stirring utensil (bamboo or wooden stick)

3. gloves

Steps

1. Cut the transparent soap base into small pieces in proportion to the size and quantity of the model and put it into a heat-resistant container.

II. Dissolve the transparent soap base into liquid form and add alkaline resistant coloring and mix well.

Three. Add your favorite essential oils to the soap base and mix well.

4. Add the dried plants you want to make and mix well.

V. Grease the mold with oil (white wax oil or salad oil).

VI. Pour the soap base from step four into the mold.

Remarks:

*This is only one example of how to make the soap base, but once you have learned the basics, you can vary the rest of the recipes as you like.

*Vegetable oils are not only the three mentioned above, but also other oils (e.g., olive oil, sesame oil, etc.), and various oils have different effects.

*The oil can also be used to make environmentally friendly, non-polluting soap, which can be utilized for waste.

*Base oils, which are highly effective in skin care, are also widely used in soap manufacturing.

*Handmade soap after making into a strong alkaline, do not use, to be five weeks after the acid and alkaline (PH) value will drop to about 9, the longer the PH value will slowly drop to 8 or so, in the natural conditions of the PH value is very difficult to drop to 7 (neutral), but in order to show that the weak alkaline, you can feel at ease with the use of most of the commercially available soaps for the weak alkaline.

*Sodium hydroxide is a corrosive chemical, use should wear gloves, avoid direct contact with the skin, eyes, such as accidentally touched as soon as possible with a large amount of water rinse.

Do-it-yourself soap base:

Do-it-yourself soap base: want to master the do-it-yourself soap base friends, we published the recipe, interested in not too much trouble, hands to try.

Advantages: cultivate patience

Disadvantages: to spend time to find raw materials, formulas, and so on all to find all the time, it is necessary to stir some time, are done (not necessarily successful) but also to wait for two weeks before they can be used, do it yourself is impossible to do as transparent as the machine production.

Personal homemade transparent soap base practice: (

The production of transparent soap base on behalf of the fat is palm oil and castor oil. Castor oil can bring out the transparency of the soap, and palm oil can make the soap hard, but do-it-yourself production process is laborious, the transparent soap base can not do machine-produced transparent, yellowish color.

Transparent soap base recipe:

150g water

73.5g lye

250g palm oil

100g coconut oil

150g castor oil

Alcohol mixture:

195g alcohol

105g glycerol

75g of alcohol

105g glycerin<

75g of sugar (with 50g of warm water)

Raw materials for making clear soap base:

1) Fats and oils: Palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, or stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid (can be omitted)

2) Lye

3) Alcohol mixture: Alcohol (ethanol), glycerin, sugar (can be omitted)

4) Props for the cooling process

5) Alcohol, glycerin, and sugar. )

5) Lid: to prevent water and alcohol from evaporating

6) Stainless steel spoon

How to make:

1) Mix water, grease, and lye at 55 degrees Celsius in the cooling process, and whisk until the mixture is like mayonnaise.

2) Add glycerin and heat in medium heat.

3) Heat until the soap base becomes gelatinous and then stop. Add alcohol.

4) Cover the pot and heat again on medium heat. Check the soap base from time to time and if it solidifies, use a stainless steel spoon to flatten the mixture.

5) After about 10 minutes, add the sugar-water mixture.

6) Heat the soap base again over medium heat and add essential oils or other additives after the soap base has formed a syrupy consistency.

7) Remove any lumps and bubbles and add to the mold.

8) Once the soap base has hardened, cut into your favorite sizes. (It takes about an hour to harden in the freezer).

9) Just let it dry for 2-3 weeks.

Precautions for making a clear soap base:

1) There should be no residual oils or grease when making a clear soap base, which means no lye reduction.

2) In order to bring out the transparency of the soap base, you need to measure the proportion of each ingredient very precisely. For example, the ratio of alcohol mixture to soap base, too much soap base, will become opaque and ugly color. If there is too much sugar or glycerin in the alcohol blend, the soap will become floppy and sticky. So make sure the proportions of each ingredient are very accurate.

3) It takes two weeks to evaporate the water and alcohol from a freshly made clear soap base. The evaporated water is more than in the cooling process, so it feels like the finished product is shrinking.

4) Handmade clear soap base is softer than regular soap base and tends to soften when exposed to water.

5) Alcohol is used to make transparent soap, it is flammable and very dangerous when it touches fire. Please make sure to stop the fire before adding alcohol.

Basic materials for handmade soap

Basic materials for handmade soap

Name Price

Sodium hydroxide NT50/500g

Coconut oil NT50/500g

Palm oil NT50/500g

Beeswax NT170/500g

Transparent glycerine Soap base NT250/KG

Basic soap powder NT200/KG

Acid and alkali resistant pigment red NT30/10ml

Acid and alkali resistant pigment blue NT30/10ml

Acid and alkali resistant pigment yellow NT30/10ml

Acid and alkali resistant pigment green NT30/10ml

Acid and alkali resistant pigment orange NT30/10ml

Acid and alkali pigment purple NT30/10ml

Handmade Soap Ingredients Pack (700g of soap, 200cc of cold water)

Name Price

Shampoo Basic Soap Recipe Set (Containing Sodium Hydrogenated Sodium Hydroxide, Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Castor Oil, Olive Oil, Jojoba Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Oil, and Beeswax). ) NT350/group

Basic Soap for Face (contains sodium hydride, coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, aloe oil, beeswax) NT350/group

Basic Soap for Body (contains sodium hydride, coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, beeswax) NT300/group

Soap Making Essential Oils

Product Name Price<

Rose Rose NT520/100ml

Lavender Lavender NT320/100ml

Chamomile Camomile NT440/100ml

Jasmine Jasmin NT320/100ml

Lemongrass Lemon Grass NT440/100ml

Marigold Marigold NT500/100ml

Mint Mint NT440/100ml

Eucalyptus Eucalyptus NT440/100ml

Musk Musk NT560/100ml

Maritime Sea Breeze NT520/100ml

Green Tea Green Tea NT600/100ml

Lemon Lemon NT340/100ml

Cherry Cherry NT320/100ml

Strawberry Strawberry NT320/100ml<

Blueberry Blueberry NT380/100ml

Grapefruit Grapefruit NT440/100ml

Peach Peach NT360/100ml

Grapes Grape NT320/100ml

Coffee Coffee NT400 /100ml

Chocolate Chocolate NT500/100ml

Cinnamon Cinnamon NT520/100ml

Ginger Ginger oil NT560/100ml

Handmade Soap Recipes

Modern Man's Olive Soap

Materials:

A

Beeswax 60g

Olive oil 370g

Palm oil 30g

B

Sodium hydroxide 60g

Cold water 1 measuring cup (250ml)

How to do it:

1. Prepare the modeling container.

2. Dissolve the sodium hydroxide in cold water and set aside, waiting for the solution to cool to 50℃.

3. Heat part A to 50°C.

4. Mix the heated Part A with the sodium hydroxide solution and stir until the solution is thick (about 10 minutes), then pour into the modeling container.

5. Place the modeling container in a place where it cannot be easily moved for about 24 hours, or until the solution solidifies.

6. Remove the soap from the mold, cut it into pieces, and place it in a cool, ventilated place for 6 weeks before using!

Words from Aon:

For the busy lives of modern people, spending two days to make Grandma's Olive Soap may seem a bit extravagant, but this recipe is specially designed for busy people, and it only takes about 15 minutes to make!

These two olive soaps are great for washing your hair, and although they don't lather as much as commercial shampoos and don't lather as fast, they are very good for your scalp and hair! After washing, you can use normal moisturizer or make your own natural moisturizer, long-term use you will find that your scalp and hair are becoming stronger!

※Summer fruity

Materials:

Basic Soap Recipe

Citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges 1~2, if you use grapefruit about 1/2

Citrus essential oils of about 10 ml

Procedure:

(Lemon, for example)

1.Scrape lemon rind with a scraper into a fine silk.

2.

2. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice.

3. In accordance with the basic soap making method, when the solution becomes thick add lemon juice and stir well, this time the soap solution will begin to change color, do not worry, because the acidity of the lemon juice is caused by the transformation of natural dyes, light orange is very lovely!

4. Add lemon essential oil and lemon peel and mix well.

5. Pour it into the film type and let it sit for 24~48 hours.

6. When the soap is solidified, take off the film and put it in a cool and ventilated place for 1 month to use.

Yi An's words:

The sweet and sour fruity aroma is as pleasant as a glass of cold lemon or orange juice in summer, fresh lemon juice is rich in Vitamin C, and can regulate the PH value of the soap, making it more gentle. And in addition to its gentle exfoliating properties, the rind can also beautify the soap and make your soap look more lively.

You can use your favorite citrus fruits and essential oils, or you can mix different citrus fruits and essential oils to make your soap, Aon strongly recommends lemon!

※Honey Oatmeal

Materials:

Soap 500g

Water 150ml

Honey 1 tbsp

Oatmeal 1 tbsp (Grind into fine grains or powder with a grinder)

How to make it:

1. Heat the water and then add in the soap. paste.

2. Then add honey and oatmeal and stir well, you can fill into the model, and then cut into pieces after solidification.

P.S. This soap has a moisturizing and exfoliating effect, do not choose ready-to-eat or quick-cooked oatmeal, as its exfoliating effect is poorer

PART A Basic Soap Making Steps

STEP 1 ----- Source: Natural. Aroma. The soap is made by yourself" by Chen Yi An traditional color publishing

Decide on the recipe, prepare the necessary materials and tools, remember to wear rubber gloves, goggles and masks, and will be the material according to the recipe weighing (as shown), remember, oh, it is the weight, not the volume.

STEP 2

In a ventilated area or outside, slowly pour water into a container of sodium hydroxide (pictured) and stir gently to dissolve it evenly. When sodium hydroxide is dissolved in water, the temperature will be up to nearly boiling point, so be especially careful not to dissolve it in warm or hot water. The container should be made of high temperature resistant plastic or glass, stainless steel is also acceptable.

STEP 3

Heat the grease on low heat and measure the temperature while heating (as shown in the picture). When the grease approaches the temperature labeled in the recipe, remove the frying pan from the heat and prepare to pour the sodium hydroxide solution, which has reached the recipe temperature, into the heated oil.

P.S. To adjust the temperature of the sodium hydroxide solution, the temperature can be increased by heating over water, while the temperature can be reduced by placing the container with the sodium hydroxide solution into a wash basin filled with cold water.

STEP 4

Carefully pick up the sodium hydroxide solution and slowly pour it into the frying pan, stirring gently as you do so (as shown in the picture) and being careful not to splash the sodium hydroxide solution.

STEP 5

Keep stirring until the mixture thickens (as shown). Of course, you can take a small break while stirring, it won't hurt! In principle, keep stirring for the first 10 minutes.

P.S. Stirring time varies depending on the oil, temperature, and other conditions. Don't worry if the soap solution hasn't thickened beyond the reference time, wait a little longer, if you follow the correct recipe and steps, the soap solution will gradually thicken.

STEP 6

Pour the thick mixture into a container or model (as shown) and scrape the pan clean with a rubber spatula.

STEP 7

Leave the container to sit for 24 to 48 hours, or when the room temperature is cooler, wrap the container in a towel or blanket (as pictured) to maintain the temperature needed for saponification.

STEP 8

Gently touch the soap with your hands, when the soap becomes as hard as cheese, you are ready to unmold and remove the soap from the container, which is not yet fully saponified, so you still need to wear gloves when touching the soap (pictured).

P.S. If your favorite soap is stuck to the mold and you can't pour it out, don't worry! Just use torture! Throw the model into the freezer and ice it for a while, and the soap will come out of the mold!

STEP 9

Cut the soap into chunks and place it in a cool, airy place for about 1 to 2 months. You can also choose not to cut the soap and wait until you want to use it, but the soap will be hard, so be careful when you cut it. After 1 to 2 months, the soap can be wrapped in plastic wrap or paper, although plastic wrap is a good packaging material, but the paper can be ventilated is more suitable for preserving your precious soap than plastic wrap.

P.S.

* Remember to wash and store your soap-making materials and tools separately from your kitchen utensils!

*Washing can be done with detergent and hot water, or you can wait a few days, when the solution left in the pot turns into soap, you can wash it directly with your hands, and you can wash the rags on the way!

Handmade -- Soap

Handmade soap, handmade with natural herbs, handmade soap, texture and natural detergent are incomparable to commercially available soaps. Handmade soap basic materials -

Base oil + sodium hydroxide + water (distilled water)

For newcomers to the most difficult to understand how to start, White's advice is to go to the bookstore, to buy a worthy of reference books, there are a number of handmade soap books available for reference.

With a reference book, it's time to decide on a recipe -- >

After deciding on a recipe, it's time to buy the ingredients -- oils, sodium hydroxide, and distilled water (or plain water) -- >

Tools -- The tools to be eliminated from your home kitchen can be prioritized, such as a mixer for making desserts and stainless-steel pots and pans (don't use aluminum pots and tools to make soap!). Do not use aluminum pans or tools to make soap! Sodium hydroxide will have an effect on aluminum), and thermometer; In addition to the general family will not have something, is a small scale, the most important thing is to make soap is to weigh the ingredients in the recipe, 1-2 grams of error, on the small amount of soap, will have a considerable degree of impact, so it is recommended to buy the error value of no more than one gram of the scale to use the appropriate --- >

Starting to make To start, measure the oil first. The scale shown here is an electronic one.

Pour the oil into the pan according to the measurements in the recipe; when the recipe is complete, measure the oil and heat it to 55 degrees Celsius. Stir the oil as it heats up; sometimes the recipe may contain lipids like the one shown in the picture, so be careful to allow the oil and the lipids to dissolve completely in the pan.

Making the lye -- This is an important step in making handmade soap. Remember that sodium hydroxide is a strong base, so be sure to make it in a ventilated area and wear a mask and gloves. When mixing the lye, the sodium hydroxide must be poured slowly into the water and stirred at the same time. At first the lye will be cloudy as shown in the picture on the left, and then it will become clear and transparent as shown in the picture on the right. A small amount of lye can be made in glassware, but for a large amount of lye, it is recommended to use a metal container.

When the lye and oil have dropped to a temperature of about 50 degrees Celsius, pour the lye into the oil and start stirring. Use an electric mixer to make the mixture, which saves time and effort, but for novices, it is recommended that you use a whisk, mix quickly for 2 minutes, stop for a minute, and then continue again, so on and so forth, until the soap in the pot appears to have thickened.

Then you can add flavorings, colorings, or vanilla. Mix again until it is a thick soup, then pour into the molds.

The soap will solidify in about 5 - 10 minutes after being poured into the molds. When the soap is ready to be formed, there will be a distinct saponification reaction, like the darker part in the middle you see in the picture, also known as the jelly stage.

Please note that after the soap is poured into the mold, the mold is covered with a thick towel, and the picture is taken in an open-ended manner to allow you to see how the soap changes as it is formed. The soap is actually covered.

After 24-48 hours of resting, the soap can be taken out of the mold and sliced and placed in a ventilated area. After four weeks, the soap is measured for pH, and if the pH is below 9, it is safe to use.

Handmade soap production method and share

Handmade soap production method has a variety of ways, roughly divided into four categories: CP (Cold Process cold process), HP (Hot Process hot process), Rebatch (reproduction, some people will be referred to as MP), MP (Melt & Pour melt & pour method), and some people will be divided into MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP, MP.

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A brief description of my work environment:

On the far right is the gas stove, which I usually use to heat the soap base under water. To the right is the runners, where I cut the soap base and add additions. On the left is the workbench, where I sometimes cut the soap base because it's higher than the flow bench, and where I usually pour the soap base into the molds because the workbench is flatter than the flow bench. Before you start making soap, you can use newspaper to spread on the work area (runner, workbench), and wrap the trash in newspaper and throw it away when you're done making soap to save cleaning time. However, I usually don't use newspaper because I don't have a newspaper subscription at home, and I don't use newspaper because if the soap drips out, it condenses and is still soap, so it's not hard to clean up, so I don't use paper. You can decide whether to put paper or not at your own discretion.

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Start making soap Luo! The steps are as follows:

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1- Cut the soap base.

Take out the soap base, eyeball the amount of soap to be made, and cut it down with a knife at the appropriate place. After that, cut the cut down soap base small, the shape as you wish, you can cut dices, bars, julienne, etc.. The purpose of cutting it small is to speed up the melting, so the finer you cut it, the faster it will melt. Regardless of what you cut it into, it is recommended that each piece be the same size so that when you heat it up, you don't have part of the soap base that is already overheated and another part that hasn't melted yet.

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2- Heat to melt the soap base.

The clear soap base will start to melt at about 45. C or more. It is usually melted by heating it under water or microwaving it. The purpose of waterproof heating is to prevent the soap base from burning. If you want to heat the soap base directly, you have to turn down the heat and keep it away from burning at all times! Water heating, as long as you use a small fire can be, the water temperature is not too high, if you see the water began to bubble or even boil, it means that the water temperature is too high, to quickly turn down the fire or temporarily shut down. Try not to stir the soap when heating, otherwise it will produce a lot of unnecessary bubbles. If you use the color block or titanium dioxide (titanium dioxide) color, this time with the soap base at the same time heating, as for the amount to add depends on personal preferences, experience discretion (in general, as long as a little bit can be).

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Soap base melting Luo! This time I melted both the clear soap base and the white soap base. The bubbling of the clear soap base as it melts has to do with the soap base manufacturer, whether or not it is heated for too long, and whether or not it is stirred while it is heated. The bubbles do not affect the quality of the finished product, just the appearance or the time it takes to fix it. The water in the basin turns white because a piece of soap base has fallen into the water, and the soap base melts in the water, making the water white. If you retrieve the soap base that fell into the water and put it back into the small steel cup, the entire soap base in the steel cup is mixed into the water, which will reduce the transparency, so don't pick up the soap base that fell into the water.

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3- Add additives. When making functional soaps, additives are often required, and additives can be added to the soap at this point. Since this is a basic soap, this step is omitted and will be explained later when I write about functional soaps.

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4- Color mixing.

I am using the color solution to tone the color, the concentration of the color solution is very high, so add a drop at a time is enough, will be stirred well, if you think the color is not dark enough, add another drop, do not squeeze a lot of drops at a time, so that the color is easy to be too dark, once the color is too dark, you can only use a lot of soap base with which the remelting in order to make the color lighter. Common color liquid has three colors: red, yellow, blue, other colors can be adjusted out of these three colors, for example: red + yellow → orange, yellow + blue → green, blue + red → purple. In addition, light blue is more difficult to adjust, because the soap base slightly a little yellow, even if you only add a little blue color solution, it still looks a little blue-green. If you buy a clear soap base that is very transparent and not a little bit yellow, then your soap base is probably made with an interface active agent and is not pure soap. If you are using a color block to tint your soap, the tinting is done when you melt the soap base. If you're making colorless or white soap, you don't need to add a color solution and this step can be omitted.

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5- Toning the scent.

The flavor of soap is usually created by adding fragrance or essential oils. Essential oils are more expensive and the flavor disappears more quickly, and some essential oils change the flavor after they are added to the soap, though they have healing properties. Essential oils are cheaper and have a longer lasting flavor, but have no healing properties. If the temperature of the soap is still very high, you must wait for the temperature to decrease a little before dropping essential oils or flavors, especially with essential oils, because essential oils evaporate very quickly at high temperatures, so I'm afraid that it would be a waste to drop essential oils into the soap when the temperature is very high. Some essential oils or fragrances will change the color of the soap slightly when added to the soap, so you can swap the previous step with this one, and then adjust the color after you have finished adjusting the scent. The amount of fragrance or essential oil to be added is about 0.5% to 2% of the soap. Half a cup of soap in a small steel cup is about 100 cc, so you can add 10 drops to 40 drops of fragrance or essential oil (1 cc is about 20 drops). Drops into the amount of flavor or essential oils according to the type and personal preferences vary, like a little thicker on the addition of a little more, like lightly scented on the addition of a little less, generally speaking, after the bath, these scents will not stay on the skin. If you want to make natural unscented soap, this step can be omitted. For sensitive skin soap soap, it is recommended not to add fragrance, and preferably not to add color, because these things more or less will bring some skin irritation.

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6- Into the mold.

Pour the color and flavor of the color solution into the mold, about eight or nine minutes full, or the desired height can be poured, if the pour is too full, it will not be easy to take off the mold. The molds must be washed and dried beforehand. The mold on the left was left over from the jelly, and the one on the right is a pudding box.

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After pouring the soap, you can put the soap on the side and let it cool down for about an hour before it solidifies, and then you can pack it or use it directly after removing it from the mold. If you want the soaps to set quickly, you can place them in the refrigerator to chill or freeze for about 15 minutes to half an hour. While they are setting, you can wash your utensils and the environment! Small steel cups and stirring bars can be used in the water pan of warm water first preliminary cleaning, warm water to accelerate the melting of soap soap, you can wash more easily and happily Oh!

ps. 1, 2 with a pudding box, 3 with a hibiscus tofu box, 4 with a jelly mold, 5 with a jelly box, 6 with a special mold for soap.

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7- Remove the mold.

The soap is ready to be unmolded once it is completely set. I cut off the top half of this pudding box, leaving the bottom half of the flower mold. To release the mold, the first step is to pull the mouth of the mold to the side first, allowing air to get between the soap and the mold, so that the air gets to all the sides.

Turn the mold upside down and press down on the bottom of the mold so that air can get to the bottom. When the air is completely in the bottom, the soap will be detached from the mold and can be snapped out at this point.