The legend of Yunjin!

brocade

one of the traditional brocade. Ming and Qing dynasties were court fabrics. There are many government-run weaving bureaus that produce them, which are used for court costumes and gifts. Commodity production began in the late Qing Dynasty, and the name "Yunjin" was born in the industry, which was named after its richness and splendor. Modern only Nanjing production, often called "Nanjing Yunjin". Modern Yunjin inherited the traditional styles of Ming and Qing Dynasties and developed. Traditional varieties include makeup flowers, kujin and kusatin (see "makeup flowers", "kujin" and "kusatin"). Kujin and kujin were named after being woven in Qing Dynasty and imported into the "satin library" of the Ministry of Interior, and they are still in use today. Makeup fabrics are varieties representing the technical characteristics and styles of Yunjin. The pattern layout is rigorous and solemn, and the pattern modeling is concise and generalized. Most of them are large-scale full patterns arranged continuously in four directions. There are also large-scale makeup fabrics (such as robes in Ming and Qing dynasties, kang mattresses and mats, etc.) that are completely single and suitable for patterns. The colors are rich and bright, and the decorative patterns are often edged with gold thread or gold and silver thread, and they are transited by white or halo. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, new varieties were created on the basis of traditional varieties, such as Yuhua Brocade, Dunhuang Brocade, Gold and Silver Makeup, Lingjin Brocade, Decorative Brocade, Table Carpet, Cushion, etc., to meet the needs of Mongolian and Tibetan brothers in clothing, painting and calligraphy mounting, tourist souvenirs and foreign trade.

Nanjing Yunjin is a jacquard silk-woven handicraft, which is the first of the "three treasures" of Nanjing craft, and is also known as the "two famous brocade" with Suzhou silk reeling. There are as many as 18 kinds of colors in Nanjing Yunjin, and the main flowers are introduced layer by layer by using "color halo". They are rich and elegant, solid in texture, rich and beautiful in patterns, rich and solemn in colors, and a large number of gold threads are used, forming a magnificent and unique style. In the past, Yunjin was used exclusively for the imperial court or as a gift to the hero. Now, in addition to the clothing made by ethnic minorities, Yunjin is also exported to foreign countries to make high-grade clothing fabrics.

Yunjin has a unique technology. Weaving with the old flower-lifting machine must be completed by two people, the jacquard worker and the weaver. Two people can only produce 5-6 cm a day, and this technology can't be replaced by machines. The main feature of Yunjin is different colors from flower to flower. From different angles of Yunjin, the colors of flowers on embroidery are different. Because it is used in royal clothing, Yunjin often uses exquisite materials in weaving, and strives for perfection at the expense of work. Yunjin likes to weave Yunjin with gold thread, silver thread, copper wire, filament and spun silk, and all kinds of bird and animal feathers. For example, the green color on the royal Yunjin embroidery is made of peacock feathers, and each pattern of Yunjin has its specific meaning. If you want to weave a brocade with a width of 78 cm, there are 14, silk threads on its weaving surface, and the composition of all flower patterns will shuttle through these 14, threads. The whole process is as complicated and arduous as programming a computer.

Silk reeling

The birth of Yunjin should be attributed to Suzhou silk reeling, which is actually an accessory derived from Suzhou silk reeling. Suzhou silk industry originated in Dongwu (222-28) period. At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-42), after the Qin Dynasty was destroyed, the general Liu Yu moved all the workers in Chang 'an to Jiankang (now Nanjing), because it was very close to Suzhou at that time. So a large number of Suzhou silk reeling craftsmen moved to Nanjing. Brocade craftsmen in the post-Qin dynasty inherited the brocade skills of ethnic minorities in the Han Dynasty, Cao Wei, Western Jin Dynasty and the early Sixteen Countries. In 417, the Eastern Jin Dynasty set up the brocade department in Jiankang, which was regarded as the symbol of the formal birth of Nanjing brocade. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Yunjin has been a special product for royal clothing. In the Qing Dynasty, there was a "Jiangning Weaving Department" in Nanjing. Cao Yin, the grandfather of Cao Xueqin, the author of A Dream of Red Mansions, worked as a weaver in Jiangning for 2 years.

Beautiful Legend of Nanjing Yunjin

Xianhe Street is located at the northwest end of Qinhuai River New Bridge, starting from Jiqing Road in the south and reaching Xianhe Bridge in the north. As the name implies, the origin of this street name is related to the beautiful and noble crane, and the touching legend about it is widely circulated among the people.

An "old Nanjing" vividly told reporters about the legend he heard from his ancestors. According to legend, there was a lonely hut in the west of ancient Nanjing, where lived an old artist who worked for the rich man. His name was Zhang Yong. Every day when the rooster crows for the first time, Zhang Yong starts to get off the machine pit and brocade, and he has to be busy until midnight. A year later, the sweat dripped dry, the tears flowed out, and the woven brocade was like a long river. But the rich man, in turn, said that Zhang Yong owed him more debts. On one occasion, the treasurer celebrated his birthday, forcing Zhang Yong to weave a brocade hanging screen of "Song Ling He Shou". Zhang Yong had to drag his skinny body out of the machine pit and throw the shuttle across the pipe to weave brocade. The poor old man is white-haired and has no strength! It took five and a half inches to weave the lamp oil overnight. Seeing that the rich man was coming to force the goods, the old man was so anxious that he was in tears. He stretched out his hands and sighed bitterly to himself facing the towering mountain outside the door: "Empress Yunjin, people say that you are the fairy who bless our poor brocade. Now the rich man is forcing us poor people to death. How can you from ruin ..." Zhang Yong was so tired that he fainted at the loom before he finished speaking.

At this moment, the colorful clouds on the mountain suddenly opened up, shining with thousands of golden lights. Then the clouds fluttered and the wind rustled, and Zhang Yongjia's door creaked open. Two beautiful girls came in. They helped Zhang Yong to bed and sat down in the machine pit to weave brocade skillfully. At the moment, the loom rang and the pattern was on the brocade.

It's almost dawn. When Zhang Yong wakes up from a coma, he sees a room full of golden light. One girl is swinging a shuttle brocade in the machine pit quickly, and the other is sitting on the flower floor, pulling flowers. He asked quickly, "Who are you?" The girls pointed to the clouds in the sky. Zhang Yong looked down their hands and saw ten thousand rosy clouds. Looking back, the two girls were gone, leaving only the brocade woven on the machine shining. The pattern on the brocade is like a fairyland. The pines are lush and the springs are clear. The two lifelike cranes are very bright with red blood.

Zhang Yong happily rolled the brocade under the machine, but I didn't expect this magical brocade to be pulled one after another like a waterfall on the mountain, rolling one horse after another, and it could never be pulled out and rolled up. All the neighbors came to see the strangeness.

While everyone was in high spirits, the rich man came with a bunch of thugs rushing to collect debts. With a fork in his waist and a wave of his hand, the thugs rushed to grab this magical brocade machine like a tiger. Zhang Yong refused to rely on it, clinging to the loom and refusing to let it go. The vicious rich man kicked the old and sick Zhang Yong to the ground, and the old artist suddenly vomited blood and passed out. Too many cooks, a dozen thugs here, wanted to carry the loom away, but the wooden brocade machine, which weighs dozens of pounds at ordinary times, was made of copper and iron at the moment, so he could not move it. The rich man was in a hurry. He stretched out his hand to pull the brocade on the loom, but he heard a bang. The wooden shuttle of the brocade seemed to be alive, jumped up and chased the rich man hard, making him cry and scream. The thugs who became angry from embarrassment burned the house angrily. At this moment, there was a loud thunder in the sky, and the rainstorm poured down, dousing the fire and cleaning the sky.

when the rich man and the thugs look bad, they turn around and want to escape. At this moment, two cranes on the brocade suddenly flew out with a long roar, circled Zhang Yongfei twice, fanned their wings twice, and the old artist suddenly sat up radiant. Two cranes chased the rich man again, pouncing on his face and pecking hard, and the rich man screamed with pain. When all the people from Zhang Yonghe arrived, they saw the sky full of red clouds, the golden light wheel flickering on the top of the high mountain outside the city, and two beautiful cranes dancing. Everyone cheered with one voice, only the rich man covered his face in a ghostly cry, but his eyes were pecked blind by the crane.

Later, it was said that the two beautiful girls who helped Zhang Yong weave brocade that night were the two fairies around Empress Yunjin, who came to the world to help the poor rectify their old wealth on orders from Empress Yunjin. In order to commemorate Empress Yunjin, people named the street where Zhang Yong lived "Xianhe Street".

the state attaches great importance to the protection of intangible cultural heritage, and the state attaches great importance to the protection of intangible cultural heritage. On May 2, 26, Nanjing Yunjin Wood Machine Makeup Hand-weaving Technology was approved by the State Council and included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage lists. On June 8, 27, Jiangsu Jinwen Yunjin Celebrity Studio won the first Cultural Heritage Day Award issued by the Ministry of Culture.