The history of the development of foreign clothing materials

1. History of Clothing Development in the United States

From Thick to Thin, From Long to Short

Early 20th Century Soviet art style refers to "Absolutism", "Constructivism", and "Tatlinism", which originated in the early 20th Century in the 1910's and were guided by Soviet artists. These artists were influenced by modernism, expressed in geometric abstraction.

This style of art also had a profound impact on clothing, especially in the Soviet Union, where the combination of geometric abstraction and a strong political agenda was reflected in the design of clothing and fabrics, creating a special aesthetic for clothing.

In the early 1950s in the United States, but did flourish in the mid-1950s in the United States." POP" is the abbreviation of "Popular", meaning "popular, popular". As for "POP Art", it refers to a "popular", "cheap", "mass-produced", "young", "fun", "commercialized", "instant", "momentary" form and spirit of art style.

This style of art influenced the field of clothing, reflected in the innovation of clothing fabrics and patterns, changing the characteristics of the past decorative patterns of clothing, and leaving a deep imprint in the history of European clothing.

2. Want to know something about the historical evolution of American dress culture

The first immigrants who set foot on the American continent were almost barehanded, and the necessities of life were extremely scarce for them.

In the early colonial era, the immigrants' clothing mainly relied on the British and European countries to import, the foot silk is very precious. The so-called upper class in the cities of the East Coast were able to import clothing from Europe, but the commoners on the frontier still had to struggle to clothe themselves.

The intense labor of the time made clothing extremely vulnerable to wear and tear, a phenomenon that was particularly evident when miners flocked to California in 1849 in the famous gold rush. Against this backdrop of life, solid, durable jeans were born.

"Jeans", or jeans, was first recorded in 1567 as a term for the pants worn by merchant sailors from the Italian port city of Genoa, known as "Genoese" or "Genes". The name "Jeans" was only officially adopted by Levi's in the 1860s, before that it was known as "Waist High Overall" or "Pantaloons".

Levi Strauss is recognized as the inventor of the jean. He was originally a dry goods wholesaler, doing business in fabrics, clothing, and grains, and earned a good reputation in his local area for being a good businessman.

The gray canvas work pants he sold were sturdy and durable, and the people who wore them appeared to be lean and sharp, and were loved by the miners. Levi, who is said to have been inspired by the shallow crotch leggings worn by Texas ranchers, officially founded the Levi Strauss Company in 1850.

Levi's 501 jeans are known as the originator of the jean. At its inception, jeans were undoubtedly associated with the heavy outdoor physical labor of the frontier, and were designed as workwear for miners, cowboys, railroaders, lumberjacks, and pioneers.

In the process of expanding to the western frontier, the rapid development of agriculture was accompanied by a growing industrial boom. Although the urban population was growing rapidly, in 1880, five-sixths of the population of the United States was said to be living in rural areas, and clothing was still modest and casual.

Jeans were used exclusively as workwear and, given their superior quality, became increasingly popular with manual laborers. The "golden dream" of overnight wealth and the image of cowboys portrayed in Hollywood westerns have made jeans full of rich legends.

In the 1930s, during the Depression, wealthy Easterners were unable to afford a vacation in Europe, so the West became a natural place for them to go. Easterners were not only mesmerized by the beauty of the Midwest, but they were also enamored with the stories of the legendary cowboy heroes of the West, and they loved the heroic and rustic jeans worn by the cowboys.

As of the mid-30s, jeans were worn by almost everyone in the agricultural Midwest, and were brought to the bustling cities east of the Mississippi River for the first time, since then, jeans began to step into the ranks of popular clothing. 1935 American Vogue magazine's popular column published women's overalls.

The Second World War was a decisive factor in the popularity of jeans around the world. The US authorities designated jeans as an important wartime item, and they were used as a uniform for the US army, which accompanied the Allied forces deep into the heart of Europe.

When the soldiers returned home after the war, a large stockpile of jeans was sold locally ***, and local workwear manufacturers in Europe competed to emulate the original U.S. colors, thus popularizing jeans. On American soil, the war brought women into men's jobs, creating an unprecedented opportunity to popularize jeans among women.

Students also wore jeans as a symbol of solidarity with the working man. After the war, jeans were worn by everyone, and they were the most influential garment of the time.

As demand outstripped supply, jeans were a staple of the black market between the United States and the Soviet Union, as well as third-world countries. In the 1950s, the rise of film and television communication industry shaped the American people in the mind of the anti-conventional hero image, cowboy culture along with Hollywood's brilliant era into the world, such as the film "unwarranted resistance", "Tianlun dream Jue", etc., the film hero James Dean wearing jeans on the screen, was public opinion reputation?quot; the whole world of the girl's dream lover".

Jeans are also Hollywood stars Marlon Brando, John Wayne, Elvis Presley, Madonna and other people's favorite things, become a teenager to emulate, the pursuit of the goal of the film and television entertainment industry to drive the jeans of the international popularity of the trend played a role can not be underestimated. In the 1960s and 1970s, jeans played an important role in the anti-war, anti-establishment, and anti-traditional movements advocated by the new generation that grew up after World War II, and were once again regarded as a representative of the revolutionary and rebellious image.

Workers and other laborers continued to wear them for work and life, and schoolchildren, hippies, and other young people were happy to wear them as easy, fashionable everyday wear. Discos made jeans a favorite for evening wear.

During this period, the appearance of jeans changed considerably, with the most obvious feature being the evolution of the traditional skinny cut of the leg into a flared shape, i.e., denim flared jeans, with an unprecedented width of the leg. Decoration, fabric, color, finishing and other aspects of the new approach is more endless, the popularity of jeans and thus a day by day, into a new era.

Subsequently, the introduction of designer jeans brought denim to the top of the fashion ladder. The prices of jeans were comparable to those of fine women's clothing, which was a miraculous feat for the original producers.

After more than 10 years of popularity ***, the 80's although designer jeans swept the world, but the Western countries of the jeans boom actually cooled down, the old denim companies such as Levi's have taken measures to reduce the size and production line. At this time there was a time flow? quot; beggar's clothing", "ragged style".

In the mid-80s, Levis took the lead in setting off a back-to-basics publicity campaign, and other old-school denim companies responded, leading to a wave of nostalgia that continued into the 90s, with five-pocketed classics, red hems, and copper buttons replacing zippers in jeans that became highly sought-after again. And in China, at this time, just emerging jeans fever, huge population resources and clothing concepts of the rapidly changing, so that the jeans business development as the sky.

During the Great Depression, jeans often gave people an unpleasant association, and the more people wore them, the more people felt ordinary labor.

Throughout the history of the development of clothing, the reason why there is such a big difference between Chinese and foreign clothing and the two different cultures and wear concepts are inextricably linked.

From the wear of clothing, Chinese people pay attention to the instrument of modification, Westerners advocate the beauty of the human body; Chinese people's clothing behavior focus on self-regulation, so more conservative, less change, while Westerners pay attention to the behavior of self-performance of the dress, so more open, more change; Chinese people on the dress of the beauty of the heavy decorations, pay attention to the harmony of the environment, the Westerner on the beauty of the clothing, pay attention to the contrast with the environment. The difference in the production process of clothing is also an important factor.

Chinese clothing structure is a whole piece of plane type, the importance of two-dimensional space effect, does not emphasize the clothing and human body parts to maintain consistency, but also do not pay attention to clothing performance of the human body curves, clothing, straight and loose, the use of plane tailoring method. Western-style clothing structure is divided into three-dimensional type, emphasizing three-dimensional spatial effect, in the structure of the three-dimensional tailoring, focusing on test sewing, revisions and corrections, in order to maximize and body, highlighting the beauty of the human body curves.

Secondly, the production of Chinese clothing is static, and the production of Western-style clothing is dynamic. Traditional Chinese clothing is cut on the board, the clothes piece of the seams are mainly straight line, so the seam lines are popped out of the powdered thread, in the middle of the piece of clothing is not to do any saving or division of the combination of clothing piece is a whole piece of very few accessories or fittings.

Even if there are a few pockets and other accessories, they are sewn on in the form of cover patches. When the pieces are sewn together, the two pieces are just stacked on top of each other and then sewn along the edges. There is no need for a trial or correction process, so it is a static production process.

After the garment is finished, the shape is square and neat, and it becomes an idol of the human body or a symbol of etiquette and customs to wear on the body. The formation of this static production of clothing is entirely related to the Chinese clothing plane type structure, but also with our national character like quiet and not like to move.

4. History of the development of Chinese and foreign clothing

Throughout the history of the development of clothing, the reason why there is so much difference between Chinese and foreign clothing and the two different cultures and wear concepts are inextricably linked.

From the wearing of clothing, Chinese people pay attention to the instrument of modification, Westerners advocate the beauty of the human body; Chinese people's clothing behavior focus on self-regulation, so more conservative, less change, while Westerners pay attention to the behavior of self-performance of the dress, so more open, more change; Chinese people on the dress of the beauty of the heavy decorations, pay attention to the harmony of the environment, the Westerner on the beauty of the clothing, pay attention to the contrast with the environment.

The difference in the production process of clothing is also one of the important factors. Chinese clothing structure is the whole piece of plane type, pay attention to the two-dimensional space effect, does not emphasize the clothing and human body parts to maintain consistency, not to pay attention to clothing performance of the human body curves, clothing, straight and loose, the use of plane cutting method. Western-style clothing structure is divided into three-dimensional type, emphasizing three-dimensional spatial effect, in the structure of the three-dimensional tailoring, focusing on test sewing, revisions and corrections, in order to maximize and body, highlighting the beauty of the human body curves.

Secondly, the production of Chinese clothing is static, and the production of Western-style clothing is dynamic. Traditional Chinese clothing tailoring is placed on the board for the clothing piece of the seams are mainly straight line, so the seam lines and so on are popped out of the powdered thread, in the middle of the piece of clothing is not to do any saving or division of the combination of clothing piece is a whole piece of very few attachments or accessories. Even if there are a small number of pockets and other accessories, they are sewn on in the form of a cover patch. Clothing piece sewing is only two pieces of clothing piece up and down after folding along the edge of the sewing can be, there is no need to have a sample or correction process, so it is a kind of static type of production process. Clothing after the shape of the square, neat, wear on the body to become a human icon or symbol of rituals and customs. The formation of this static production of clothing, completely and Chinese clothing plane type structure, but also with our national character like quiet and not like to move about.

5. Seek thesis: the history of the development of modern Western clothing

Clothing, clothing shoes, toys, jewelry, etc., refers to the general term, mostly refers to clothing. Clothing in the early development of human society has appeared, the ancient people around can find a variety of materials made of crude "clothes" to protect themselves. The first human clothes were made of animal skin, wrapped around the body of the earliest "fabric" made of hemp fibers and grass.

In the national standard for clothing is defined as, clothing, worn on the human body to protect and decorate the product, also known as clothing.

For the present society, clothing has been everyone to decorate themselves, to protect themselves, can give themselves and their families must have, not only for wear, but also an identity, an attitude to life, a show of personal charm performance.

6. The development process of French clothing history

French clothing design culture is a multi-source culture, cultural instincts are more open, easy to integrate foreign clothing culture. In the process of its formation, clothing is regarded as a special body art, focusing on the form, that the form is the content. In the process of its development, the characteristics of the times are obvious, and the style changes are obvious. Variation and innovation are much greater than inheritance and continuity. French clothing focus on three-dimensional, the shape becomes rich in change, clothing using three-dimensional decoration has its brilliant place: one is three-dimensional decoration and three-dimensional structural modeling echo, natural harmony; second is the decorative effect in line with the aesthetic psychology, because where the plain, all-encompassing surface, prone to give rise to a monotonous sense of the people, and the level of rich, virtual and real with the overlap of the surface of the interspersed space with intriguing effects, easy to provoke the It is easy to arouse the sense of aesthetics. At the same time, as far as possible, the modeling should reflect the beauty of the body. France recognizes that there is no absolute comparison between the two clothing styles that emphasize the beauty of the human body. French people in the world famous romantic. So the French clothing design especially focuses on reflecting the romance and luxury, the beauty of clothing modeling, pay attention to the contrast with the environment. Selection of rich, excellent, bold design, production technology, enjoy a good reputation in the world.

In the early 1920s, elegant French noblewomen had to wear up to six times a day, and the style of clothing at that time was to emphasize the meticulous craftsmanship and tailoring, this slender evening gowns can be perfectly rendered by the women's delicate curves, and a variety of exquisite natural graphics on the clothing has been through the influence of the Art Nouveau at that time.

But with the advent of the Second World War, this extravagant style disappeared, and was replaced by a simple, practical style, which was conservative and sometimes difficult to distinguish between men's and women's clothing. To the post-war period, the French fashion again active, through this set of exhibition of Chanel clothing can be seen, then the clothing focus on highlighting the female temperament of the competent, and began to pay attention to the overall shape of the design of clothing and accessories, this period of clothing achievements of a group of active, courageous and enterprising and vibrant modern women. And to the 40's, from the exhibition of clothing can be seen, to Dior as the leading extreme luxury evening dresses began to get out of hand, these dresses noble and elegant shape, the use of a large number of fabrics and decorations, colors, styles and collocation also began to skyrocket, no wonder, this period of time can be said to have awakened the long-dormant French fashion. Even in modern times, this luxury wind has not been the slightest decline, the difference is that it is no longer like when the world, because the mini group, poncho, transparent clothing and other more personalized clothing has brought an unstoppable tide of modern thinking into the tide of fashion. French clothing design also advocates the expression of contradiction, conflict, in the composition of clothing emphasizes ***, extreme form, to highlight the personality as an honor. Human body beauty, emphasize the display of human sexual differences, not taboo to show sexy. Classical mode is to show the second sex characteristics of women, clothing styles to show neck, shoulder, back, half-chest, to tighten the waistline and padded buttocks to show the curve of the female carcass. Modern mode is a simple form of expression of the human body's natural body shape, to short dew and tight for the modern fashion centuries of French fashion to today has been very diverse, but who will believe that it will continue to create a new fashion to amaze the world.

When it comes to French fashion design, we have to mention French haute couture. And many French people see Lacqua as the savior of French haute couture. Since the 1980s, the minimalist style swept the world, especially on the traditional French haute couture had a great impact. Some traditional brands began to rely on attracting young, avant-garde blood and subverting tradition. For example, many of the designers of Chanel and Dior today come from outside of France, except for Lacquard, who is a native Frenchman. Lacqua is undoubtedly the one who has transformed the essence of French local culture into the most thorough and clear expression through the language of clothing." When fashion entered the 90's, the style became more and more simple and minimalist, but Lacqua still tried to depict the deepest dreams of the soul in a fashion way, and continuously launched gorgeous and dazzling works. 1992, he launched a retro baroque era women's clothing, using precious satin, chiffon, light yarn, cutting is very sophisticated, full of the spirit of the French classical court art. 1994, his new brand "Bazzer", the first of its kind, is a new brand. In 1994, his new brand "Bazzer" injected the exquisite tailoring of haute couture into youthful styles, and is considered to be an easy combination of splendor and freedom. Today, French haute couture is world famous.

China's clothing history review collation 1. cross-hatched shirt: with the equivalent of two body length of a piece of material equivalent to folded, the middle of a round hole or cut a mouth to wear the head out of it, the front and back of the two pieces, with the belt tied into a cross-hatched shirt. 2. 2. the service: specializing in the implementation of the service system, the arrangement of the emperor to wear the official.

3. within the Division Clothing: the official in charge of the queen in the ceremony to wear. 4. 4. Coronation dress: including the crown, the crimson robe, the belt around the waist, the knee in front of the tie, and the shoes and slippers.

The crimson robe (Xuan: black; crimson: reddish-red) is used to symbolize the unlit sky and the twilight place, and then it is decorated with tattoos. 5. twelve chapters of decoration: (painted on the next embroidery, six chapters each) embroidery of the sun, moon and stars, to take the light; embroidery of mountains, to take its stability; embroidery of the dragon for its strain; embroidery of the Chinese insect (female bird) for its literature; embroidery of the Zongyi, to take its loyalty and filial piety; painting algae, to take its cleanliness; embroidery of the fire for its light; embroidery of the powdered rice (white rice) to take its nourishment; embroidery of the embroidery (axe) for its decision; embroidery 黻(双兽相背形) to take its clarity.

6. shielding the knee: belt around the waist, under the belt to wear as a shielding knee. The form of the original to cover the abdomen and reproductive parts, and then gradually become part of the dress, and then later is purely to maintain the dignity of the nobleman.

Coronation dress is called "Fu", sacrificial dress, said "黼" or "黻" .

7. Hundred schools of thought have led to different costumes in different countries: Confucianism advocates "*** 文武", "约之以礼", "文质彬彬" and Taoism advocates "被(披)(wear)" and "(披)(wear)". The Taoists advocated "to be clothed in brown and jade", "to eat sweetly and dress beautifully". The Mohists advocated "to economize", "to use money sparingly", "not to be overly extravagant", "to eat food", and "to be overly extravagant". The Mohists advocated "moderation of use" and "excessive luxury", "food must always be full and then seek beauty, clothing must always be warm and then seek beauty, living must always be safe and then seek happiness" Xun Zi: emphasized that "crowns and garments, embroidery and articles, carving and engraving are all the same" The Legalist Han Fei Zi denied the Mandate of Heaven and at the same time advocated that the clothing should be "advocate nature, against modification" 8. deep clothes: the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period, especially the Warring States period prevailed in one of the most representative style of clothing. "Ren Ren hook edge", not open, the lapel lengthened so that it forms a triangle around the back, tied with a ribbon.

The upper and lower part of the tailoring, and then sewed to the waist as a whole, so that the upper body fitted under the broad garment, ankle-length or ground, men and women of all ages, civil and military all wear. 9. 9. The pre-Qin clothing is very significant, laying down the basic form of Chinese clothing, such as the upper garment and the lower garment and the upper and lower attached, and revealing the national traditional cultural consciousness of Chinese patterns rich in symbolism (twelve chapters of the pattern), and the colors have symbols (Xuanjie smoked clothes).

10. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, men took their robes as the most expensive. Style to large-sleeved for more, the cuffs part of the contraction of the tight, called expectoration, full-sleeved called the sleeve, and thus wide sleeves often exaggerated as "open sleeves into a shade", collar, cuffs embroidered chevron, large lapel slanting lapel, lapel open very low, the collar reveals the underwear, the hem of the gown flowers decorated edge, or a row of tucks or cut into the shape of the crescent moon bends and according to the shape of the hem into a curved train and a straight train. According to the shape of the hem is divided into a train and a straight train.

11. Qin and Han Dynasty crowns: coronet (Pingtian Crown), long crown (mostly eunuchs, attendants with "Gaozu Crown or Liu's Crown"), martial arts crowns, law crowns (Xiezhi Crown), Liang Crown (Jinxian Crown), etc. 12. Qin and Han Dynasty crowns of the many styles: coronet: "Pingtian Crown " Long crown: "Gaozu crown", "Liu's crown", mostly for eunuchs, attendants. Martial Crown: for military generals Law Crown: Xiezhi Crown (divine goat), worn by law enforcement officials Liang Crown: "Jinxian Crown", for civil officials.

13. Han officials wear crowns, crowns must be lined with stains, and according to the rank or position of different differences. Civilian officials of the Jinxian crown to be matched with the intermediary, while the martial arts crown of the WuBenDaGuan to be matched with the flat conical cap.

14. conical cap: both a kind of hair scarf, the Qin and Han dynasties can be worn without distinction between noble and lowly, wearing a crown lined with the crown, the common people can be a single with it. Its shape is like a cap, more flat-topped called "flat scarf conical cap", there is a roof-shaped called "in the conical cap" 15. ???àòàòü: women's regular clothes, clothing style like the deep clothes, but the bottom of the lapel by the lapel curved around and formed two sharp corners, 16. ?à?àòü: ?à?àíàòü is a short coat, up to the waist, worn with a group of the lower body, which is the same as the lower body. It is a short jacket, long to the waist, worn with a group of lower body, which is another kind of form different from the upper and lower attached to the deep coat, i.e., the upper garment and the lower garment.

17. Zou Yan, a philosopher at the end of the Warring States period and a representative of the Yin-Yang family, used the five elements to establish the five virtues and always said, and attached it to the social and historical changes and the rise and fall of dynasties, and the Han Dynasty destroyed the Qin Dynasty, and the virtue of the earth prevailed over the virtue of the water, and so the color yellow became the color of the high-class clothes. 18. Wei and Jin men's clothing to long shirt for the fashion (robes have expectoration, while the shirt wide open sleeves, a single, clip the two styles, like to use white).

褒衣博带became the main style of dress in this period, especially the most preferred by the literati. 19. 19. cape: began in the Jin Dynasty, popular in later generations of a woman's clothing, the form of scarf, draped over the neck and shoulders, handing with the collar in front, naturally hanging down.

20. Wei, Jin, North and South long period, the northern peoples of the most typical clothing for the pants fold and waistcoat. Trouser pleats: is a kind of clothing under the pants, called trouser pleats clothing, lapel or obeisance, belt around the waist, convenient and sharp, revealing the roughness of the plagiarism of the gas.

Bound pants: brocade ribbon cut into a three-foot section, tightly tied under the knee part of the pants, in order to act. Waistcoat: one when the back, one when the chest, the form of collarless and sleeveless, the first seems to be the front and back of the two pieces, armpits and shoulders to loop buckle, men and women can wear, and then waistcoat form used in military uniforms, changed to the iron armor leaves, set on the outside of the liner robe.

This type of clothing has been used to this day, the South said undershirt, the North said undershirt or shoulders, there is also a single, folder, leather, jacket, cotton and other differences, and can be attached to the clothes or outside the clothes, clothes outside the slightly longer, slightly shorter clothes. 21. 21. 幞头：is the most common first dress for men in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties period.

Initially wrapped in the head with a width of the Ropa, relatively low, and then added a scarf under the turban to ensure that the shape of the turban is wrapped in a fixed. The two feet of the turban, at first like a band naturally hanging down to the collar or over the shoulder, and then gradually short and curved upward into the knot behind the head, are called the soft feet turban.

After the Middle Tang Dynasty, the foot of the turban is rounded and wide, like a hard wing and slightly upward, and in the center there seems to be a silk string to make it right elastic, so it is called a hard foot. 22. The image of women's costumes in the three hundred years of the Great Tang can be mainly divided into three kinds of matching costumes: 襦群服, 男装, and 胡服.

23. half-arm and Phi Pali: half-arm like today's short-sleeved shirt, because of the length of its sleeves between the waistcoat and the shirt, so it is called half-arm. Pipi: evolved from the narrow and long cape, and gradually became a cape on the arms, dancing in front of and behind a kind of ribbon.

24. Women dressed in men's clothing, that is, the whole body imitation of men's attire, a major feature of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty. 25. 25. 襕 shirt: two Song period men often dress to 襕 shirt.