Types of ancient Japanese clothing

Food, clothing, housing and transportation are the most concerned issues of our ancestors. Among them, "clothing" is an important tool to distinguish human beings from animals and prevent cold and harm. But with the development of civilization, its beautification function has been greatly emphasized. Today, a finely crafted cheongsam and a newly released French women's dress are regarded as works of art. However, if the most exquisite national costume in the world today is kimono.

Twelve orders

When it comes to kimono, the first thing to say is the origin (historical inheritance).

Since the Shinto era, Japan's clothing culture has always had a distinct "foreign" imprint. This is not only reflected in the form of clothing, but also in the knitting technology of clothing materials.

Since Shen Ying's time, Japan has close ties with South Korea and China, which has brought favorable conditions for the spread of culture. Emperor Tuigu even imitated the costumes of the Sui Dynasty, and formulated the crown clothes and court clothes. In the Nara era, it became fashionable to imitate the clothes and styles of the Tang Dynasty. However, the extremes meet, and with the passage of time, the era of clothing with more personality and charm has arrived. This is a time of peace.

Heian period is also Japan's "national wind era". After fully digesting the culture of the Tang Dynasty, she stepped onto the historical stage as a college graduate. At this time, the clothing gradually got rid of the influence of the outside world and developed its unique luxury and exquisite characteristics. For example, people familiar with Japanese history must have heard of Tang Yi and Twelve Commandments. Tang suit is a kind of clothing, with purple as the most expensive and resplendent. Twelve orders are actually a way to wear. She is not wearing a twelve-layer single coat, but a twelve-layer dress called Gui is folded on the single coat. The Gui is light and transparent. When the Gui is layered, you can still vaguely see the color of a single dress or watch, adding a hazy aesthetic feeling. From here, we can also get a glimpse of Japanese aesthetics, which not only likes abstract beauty, but also likes to truly and meticulously reflect the beauty of the natural world.

Due to excessive corruption and extravagance, the official rule eventually declined. During the period of Kamakura and Muromachi shogunate, a relatively lean and simple martial arts culture appeared, and the characteristics of this era were also reflected in costumes. Zhichuan and Shi Boshi are fashionable men's wear and are very popular. Women's clothing has become simple. Small sleeve was very popular among women in the Anshi and Taoshan periods of Nobuyoda. Although it looks good, it is still shabby compared with Tang suit. During this period, "Nenglie" with distinctive folk characteristics gradually took shape, and exquisite and luxurious "Nenglie" costumes appeared. At this time, the official costumes did not change much, and they were basically the continuation of the palace costumes in the Heian period, while the official martial artists finally merged in the Meiji period, which is another story.

During the Edo shogunate period, although there were also changes in men's and women's clothing, for example, the small sleeve of women's clothing was deformed to be close to modern times, while the feather weaving of men's clothing was popular (with black stripes as formal clothes, followed by brown and yellow), and bow ties became popular. However, the basic pattern has been set. In the Meiji era, the kimono in the present sense was finalized, and there has not been much change since then.

The origin of kimono *

Since the rule, the increasingly frequent exchanges between Japan and South Korea have brought a large number of high-grade silk products such as brocade, silk and Romania to China. The introduction of silk products also brought silk weaving technology, which began to develop in Japan.

In December of the 11th year of Tuguhun, the imperial court formulated the system of crown and court clothes, imitating the clothing system of China Sui Dynasty. The dress is stand-up, right slit, sleeveless top, white trousers and lace-ups, hanging in front. The fabric is made of thick cotton silk, which is distinguished by clothing color. In other words, virtue is purple, blue, red, yellow, white and black. In the five elements, the symbol of wood is green, fire is red, soil is yellow, gold is white and water is black. The five elements of wood, fire, soil and water are combined with the five elements theory. Pants are made of thick white cotton cloth and belts are made of Japanese cloth.

Ten years after Emperor Tianwu, the Japanese began to use belts. On formal occasions, you wear a cylindrical suit and a long belt. The coat is sewn under the armpit, and the slit is laid down horizontally, and the lace in front hangs a long knot from the right. Simple and convenient clothes for informal occasions are short belt without column, open armpit, no horizontal slit at hem and short lapel.

Since the fourth year of Zhizhi, senior officials have worn silk in winter and in summer, and the ground of silk is decorated with group patterns. Bird's Nest means Bird's Nest, which is shaped like a whirlpool. Colors are also selected according to official positions, ranging from pink, black purple, bordeaux, dark green, dark blue to light blue. The clothes of civilians are yellow, and those of slaves are black.

During the Nara period (7 10-780), influenced by the culture of the Tang Dynasty in China, the social customs of men disguised as women and women disguised as men appeared.

There are many kinds of fabrics in Nara era, such as silk, brocade, yarn, silk, silk, silk and cloth. One of the most famous is deer embryo land.

Heian period (794- 1 192), also known as the "national wind era" in Japanese history, refers to a new culture with a unique national style developed after digesting the culture of the Tang Dynasty. During this period, the clothing technology was developed and the decoration tended to be gorgeous, which was the "aristocratic era" in the history of Japanese clothing. Heian period's court dress became the basis of Tingxi style.

The costumes in Heian period include Tang costume, watch, GUI, slender, pot costume, single coat, dress, trousers and so on. Tang suit refers to straight collar clothes with long clothes and short sleeves. Later, Tang suit was also called forbidden color. It is stipulated that scarlet brocade Tang suit can't be worn casually without permission.

It shows a kind of clothing similar to kimono today.

Gui, is a multi-layer clothing, the number of layers is not limited. According to the story of glory, it is as high as 18-20 floors. Small laurel is a kind of light and transparent clothing covering the watch. The color of this kind of clothing is different from that of the watch, but through the small and light texture, some colors of the watch can be revealed, which is very beautiful, which is a feature of modern Japanese kimono.

Slender clothes are worn on Xiao Gui, and there is no special regulation on the texture and pattern of clothes that look slender.

Pot outfit refers to Dai's Dai Li and Dai Gui, which are clothes worn by women when they go out.

Single clothes, especially the decorative "Twelve Orders", are also important clothing styles in this period, which are worn by female officials in the palace. Twelve orders don't refer to twelve layers of single clothes, but to decorative clothes with twelve layers of GUI stacked on them.

The Kamakura shogunate (1 192- 1333) was the first samurai regime in Japanese history, and the samurai costumes in this period had distinct nationality and times. By the Meiji era, Japanese kimono was basically stereotyped.

Kimono origin

According to legend, in the Shinto era in Japan, there was a fairy who ordered food according to evil. He often takes off his coat, shirt and belt and exposes his body when holding exorcism ceremonies (seeking happiness in the early days of disasters by fasting and bathing). According to later research, the legendary Shinto era is equivalent to Japan's primitive social period. At that time, there were thousands of Japanese living sites discovered, and their distribution areas ranged from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, almost all over Japan. In primitive society, the Japanese lived an uncertain social life, and their main production activities were hunting and gathering (don't always think about the imperial era). Perhaps it was at that time that the Japanese began to use animal fur or leaves to keep out the cold and walked out of the nude age.

Portrait of rope literati

In the late rope culture era (Neolithic Age in Japan, equivalent to 800-500 years ago) and Yayoi culture era (the era when Yayoi pottery was used in Japan, equivalent to 300-300 years ago), two basic clothing styles appeared in Japan. One is a pullover T-shirt, which is similar in shape to today's T-shirts; The other is double-breasted type, with left-breasted placket, collar tip reaching waist, and tied with string at equal intervals. Sleeves are cylindrical sleeves, and the length is above the knee. There is also a coat, a scarf and a beard.

Autumn originally refers to a kind of crotch cloth worn under the body and hidden under the coat. Autumn here refers to the joint of trouser legs similar to shorts. Men have something around their waists called petticoats, which are tied around their coats. Some changes have taken place in the clothes because of the pleats in the knot. Most women wear skirts. Different from men, women's skirts are as long as the ground, and their shapes are quite similar to those of Korean women's skirts "Ma Qi".

Scarves are usually hung on the shoulders as decoration, and the form of hanging is not limited, which is generally determined by personal hobbies. Scarves are often used as long-sleeved belts or as a substitute for wrapping cloth in production and labor. When leaving, people waved scarves to show their reluctance, which is the same as waving handkerchiefs to show goodbye in Meiji era. ,

Yushubi is a kind of belt fabric that is bigger and longer than a scarf. It is put on the head and hung on the waist. Ancient Japanese women were taboo to be seen by men, so they were used to cover their faces.

According to Historical Records, Records of Japan, Atlas of Planting Wheels, Addendum to Ancient Characters and other documents, the clothing in the late rope culture era and the Yayoi culture era in Japan has been made of plant fiber materials such as bamboo cloth, linen cloth, cotton coarse cloth, rattan cloth and cob cloth. The belt is made of Japanese cloth. The appearance of cloth hangs over the aura of myth, such as carving gods to cut cloth and white gods to make people happy.

Dyeing was quite common at that time. According to Shen Yingji, at the time of Emperor Jingxing, the common people already knew that madder was used to dye red, indigo was used to dye blue, green bristlegrass was used to dye yellow, acorns were used to dye black, and purple roots were used to dye purple. Most dyed fabrics have no lines, and occasionally there are some printed lines, which are usually printed directly with leaves and flowers. The plants used are evening primrose, swallow grass, hazelnut, indigo, honeysuckle and so on.

Since the early Nara era, Japan has been importing the culture of the Tang Dynasty, including information on food, clothing, housing and transportation. Of course, the "costumes" in daily life were also deeply influenced by the Tang Dynasty. The era entered heian period from Nara era, and the clothing was improved, so it became the so-called Ping 'an Palace costume.

Heian period's costumes are of great classical and artistic value. Even today, the royal family still wears this kind of safe clothing in important activities, and its influence is not limited to the royal family, but also includes folk festivals and Shinto.

Types of safety clothing

E

Men's and women's wear

Slender belt

A can of strips

Raw silk of straight clothes

Small laurel clothes for hunting.

Twelve orders of water drying (formal dress)

Kimono tattoo

Tattoo, also known as heraldry, is a symbol of a family or clan in kimono. Sometimes the scope marked by this tattoo can be extended to a shrine, a school, a region, a company and so on. In short, it is a collective symbol of a group.

Tattoo shops are mostly round and polygonal in shape. There are big wheels, middle wheels, thin wheels, silk wheels, double wheels, oboro wheels, continent wheels, cocoon wheels, snow wheels, bamboo wheels, chrysanthemum wheels and rattan wheels. There are also many kinds of polygons, which the Japanese call angular patterns, including right angles, angular shapes, right angles, vertical angles, Taifu angles and so on. The most common patterns in heraldry are plant patterns, as well as vessel patterns, animal patterns, architectural patterns, natural patterns and geometric patterns.

Tattoo shop originated in Heian period. The difference between the public and the army is the mark on the ox cart, while the mark between the Wu family is the military flag when the two families are at war. During the Warring States period, according to martial arts, a few people obtained the family name or honor, so they had a family tattoo shop, which is a symbol of honor and can be inherited. Later, it became a necessary symbol in official business and social interaction, and people could understand each other's identity at a glance.

Most tattoos appear on clothes. First of all, there are decorative patterns on the sleeves, that is, the sleeves without patterns on the whole. As women's clothing, no ground pattern appeared around the Edo period and gradually became the formal dress of modern women. Kimono is the original appearance of vibrating sleeves. In the interview sequence of the Edo shogunate era, only the side ornaments or interior ornaments were left in the general appearance, and the pattern position was very low, and most of the upper open spaces were bare and monotonous. At this time, adding exquisite tattoo places here will make the design very elegant and meaningful. This pattern and pattern are today's sleeves. Tattooed sleeves are particularly elegant and have a historical beauty. Since then, a lot of lines have been produced.

Among all the tattoo places, the most memorable one is the "Chrysanthemum Imperial Emblem" in Kamakura era. At that time, Emperor Goto baiocco especially liked chrysanthemums, not only on clothes and cars, but also on Taiwan Island, which was named "Chrysanthemum-made Taiwan Island". Goto Kako is a famous and versatile figure in Japan, who wrote many poems. The famous knife "Giant Zong Ze" was cast by a famous knife worker at that time, with chrysanthemum patterns on it, hence the name. The emperor's love for chrysanthemum was inherited by the later emperor, so the chrysanthemum pattern became the emperor's family pattern. In the second year of Meiji, it was announced that sixteen chrysanthemums were used as the royal coat of arms. In Japan, people have loved wild chrysanthemums since ancient times. It is said that it was introduced to Japan from China through Korea/kloc-0.000 years ago, but the real ornamental chrysanthemum began in the edo period.

Up to now, there are about 400 kinds of heraldry, but after differentiation, there are 7,000 to 8,000 kinds. For example, there are more than 90 kinds of arms of plum blossoms alone, and a family originally had only one kind of arms. However, when the family branches, the heraldry will change appropriately, and the heraldry given in the family may be different from the original, and the number of heraldry will be greatly expanded.

The edo period was a popular period for tattoo costumes, which can be seen from the costumes of kabuki in Joeri, Jiyuan. There are also many ways to make heraldry. One kind is weaving, which is called grain feather weaving. Feather clothes are developed from Taoist robes and trunk clothes. During the Edo period, women were forbidden to wear tattoos and feather knitting. The popularity of female feather weaving was after Meiji, and white feather weaving was generally carried out on the black ground. Male tattoos and feathers are generally discharged on the black ground, so they are called discharge lines, which are generally divided into yin and yang. In addition, there are sewing patterns and cutting patterns made of embroidery and sticking embroidery, and the heraldic patterns completed by twisting process become deer patterns.

The number of arms used in tattooed clothes is generally five, three or three in one. Five stripes are used in the most formal dresses, one in the center of the back, one in the front and one in the back of the sleeves, and five in * *, which are used in kimonos such as black sleeves, vibrating sleeves and Kuroha weaving. Three stripes are one on the back and two on the back sleeve. Black kimonos for men and women generally do not use three stripes. The simplest kimono uses at least one pattern.

From Meiji to before World War II, the size of the coat of arms was generally one inch for men and seven to eight or five centimeters for women. At present, men's wear is generally nine to one inch (3.5-3.8 cm), and women's wear is five to six cm (2.6-2.8 cm).

Shuigan

Water-dried clothes and hunting clothes have the same origin, and were originally the daily clothes of ordinary people.

Different from the pattern of swimsuit, the front and rear water cylinder joints and joints are reinforced with "chrysanthemum ornaments"; In addition, Shuigan doesn't have a button (とんぼ) on the neck, but a thin belt is used to connect the neckline.

With the passage of time, Shuigan gradually became the daily clothing of Wu Jiahe and some public officials, and soon became a kind of clothing. Nowadays, female clergy sometimes wear dry water without chrysanthemums.

There are two ways to wear water-dried clothes. One is like wearing an inauguration dress, wearing only a neck button and not a belt; The other is to fold the neckline into a V-shape, wrap the long neckline back from the right shoulder, pull it to the chest through the left side, and fasten it with the chest strap-in this case, the back cuff should be stuffed into the skirt (the water-dried skirt is called the water-dried skirt). However, according to the penetration method of high warehouse flow, it is not necessary to insert the back sheet into the back sheet; The same is true of the way women clergy dress nowadays.

In terms of crowns and hats, officials with more than five products wear Eboshi, and officials with less than six products wear Eboshi with wind.

Besides, Shuigan was also a civilian costume in heian period and Kamakura. In most painting axes, chrysanthemums are usually omitted from the water stalks worn by civilians; On the water dried by the lower soldiers, the chrysanthemums are clearer.

Later, because the government also began to wear water-dried clothes, a series of clothing regulations gradually came into being.

For photographers, a V-neck collar must be used. Ordinary people can't dress like this-especially when meeting with superiors, the way of dressing up is regarded as an image of status and rank.

People in Tsinghua, whose status is lower than that of photographers, don't wear chrysanthemum sleeves either-this is also to emphasize the difference between them and the poor. On the other hand, ordinary people wear water-dried clothes with chrysanthemum sleeves.

However, in the Kamakura era, there was also a record that "Wei Ren and Kirby decorated with chrysanthemums", but because there is no conclusive historical evidence, this can only be regarded as a speculation.

Wu Gong's clothes

The Kamakura shogunate (1 192— 1333) was the first samurai regime in Japanese history, and the samurai costumes in this period had distinct nationality and times.

Samurai clothing was similar to water drying at first, but it was soon replaced by straight hanging, and it became popular to wear Eboshi. This kind of clothing was quickly imitated by folk men and became popular.

Straight hanging is a kind of dress with skirt, cross collar, triangular sleeves and lace on the chest under the coat. The design of moustache can be divided into two periods, the first period is to wear moustache, and the second period is to wear moustache. There are other special provisions on the selection of vertical materials and patterns.

The costumes of the Communist Youth League generally continued the modeling of the previous era. Women's clothing abolished the original complicated clothing system because the Wu family respected the simple life.

From the Warring States Period to the Renying Rebellion, officials and officials' costumes kept their original shapes. Muromachi shogunate (1338- 1573) not only continued to use pendants, but also added cloth and large patterns to the clothing of the Takeshi family. Large patterns are clothes decorated with family arms on the chest and arms, and the back is dyed with large patterns, which look like vertical stripes. In addition, there is a new plain coat, which is the costume of an inferior warrior. Its shape is developed from a large grain, with a chest belt and a chrysanthemum pendant, but there is no cylindrical cloth belt like a vertical grain, but a belt is used. Moreover, plain clothes has no lining, no lines and few decorations, so people in later generations often confuse plain clothes with Buyi.

After the rebellion in Ren Ying, clothes became simpler. The use of GUI by female officials is limited to five floors, which is called five clothes. And according to the order of appearance, five clothes, costumes and single clothes, the petticoat waist was cancelled. Hang a strap called a sling around your waist, and start from your shoulders and turn back to the front to tie a knot. Ordinary clothes are white small sleeve and flying boats, or you don't wear skirts and change into thin belts. There are also quilts for weddings and going out.

Typical Wu Fu has ten virtues, which are sewn with four kinds of fabrics, decorated with chrysanthemum pendants, and short skirt small sleeve as underwear. This kind of clothing can be developed into later feather weaving. The vertical, large and provincial lines are longer, and short provincial lines no longer appear in formal etiquette occasions. Since the Yongzheng period, the shoulder dress has become the main leisure dress, which is based on imitating the hands-free and array feather weaving used by medieval warriors, resulting in sleeveless and direct-hanging dresses.

Shoulder strap (royal dress)

In the Japanese clothing system, the drawstring is called "Hanbok", that is, the official's uniform. With the changes of the times, the style of drawstring has gradually changed to the broad and comfortable weathering direction in Japan. However, trousers-shaped underpants and belts still bear traces of tang style.

As a formal suit, the band worn by civil servants is called "Sewing Axillary (ほぅぇき) robe", while the band worn by officers is called "Que Axillary (けってき) robe"-this kind of band with side sleeves not sewn on the body is for the convenience of activities. When wearing a formal belt, military attaché s and officials of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, as well as officials with permission and rank above the Senate, are required to wear swords. Therefore, the waist should be tied with a slender belt called Pingwei.

When you wear your belt, you should put a single (ひとぇ) over your underwear, a big red mouth and a watch (ぅぇのはかま) under it, and a "どま" over your upper body. In addition, the waist should be fixed with a jade belt called a "stone belt"-generally speaking, the wearing method is very complicated. The color of the robe varies according to the grade, so the formal robe is also called "robe". The military attache's underarm robe is also called "coat", so it is also called "job coat". Straight clothes that do not distinguish between official positions and choose colors at will are called "miscellaneous robes."

Officials need to put fans and stickers in their arms when they enter the DPRK; Holding a water board symbolizing dignity; There is a "fish bag" hanging around the waist. In Tang dynasty, fish bag was the qualification certificate to enter Miyagi. After it was introduced to Japan, goldfish bags were highly praised by officials and ministers, while whitebait bags were used by people in temples.

Wear a small silk with a red sunflower pattern on the outside and the inside of the single attack (the inside is plain silk). In addition, there used to be a long "chain" behind the "attack", but because it was extremely complicated to wear, it gradually evolved into a royal family; The attacks of other officials are separated from the "ban", and a rope is added to the "ban" part and tied to the waist, which is called "ban". Because "happiness" symbolizes power and majesty, it has been stretched many times with the changes of the times. Now, by distinguishing the length of official letters, we can judge their historical era.

Just the "short weight" of the heel. When Heisei ascended the throne, the emperor and the royal family outside the East Palace only wore bandages.

In summer, officials appointed by officials or officials with forbidden colors use plain colors and diamond patterns (princes and photographers use vertical diamond patterns, and other officials use horizontal diamond patterns) without weaving; The rest of the officials attacked with two blue ones, no words and no cloth.

Because the tie is originally a dress when entering the palace, it is a symbol of power and majesty, so it can only be used in grand ceremonial occasions. However, those in power, powerful Tibetans and Zheng Tai officials have always adhered to the custom of wearing belts to participate in activities. After the abolition of pure Chinese "dress" (used in the ceremony of accession to the throne) in Meiji era, drawstring became a necessary formal dress for the ceremony of accession to the throne and the royal wedding. Therefore, today, you can only see the tied tapes in ancient festivals such as "Kwai Festival" and "Rock Clear Water Festival".

Attending ceremonies other than official duties, visiting shrines, clearing the way for the imperial court, wearing a belt when riding a horse, and wearing only a finger-like skirt on the lower body, which is called "cloth clothes". The sword worn at this time does not need to be "decorated with a lady's knife" or its substitute "thin lady's knife" in formal dress; Instead, use "Wu Wen Pill's Taidao" or "Wild Taidao".

Official uniform

In the first year of Dabao in Wu Wen, the "Dabao Order" stipulated that official uniforms were divided into four grades: prince, fourteenth grade and thirtieth grade. Each level has a detailed division.

Royal clothes, the color of the coat is black and purple; Righteousness and obedience of kings are black and purple, righteousness and obedience are red and purple, and righteousness and obedience are also red and purple. Minister, one is dark purple, one is dark purple, one is dark purple, one is dark purple, the third is dark purple, the fifth is light purple, the sixth is dark green, the seventh is light green, and the eighth is dark blue. New officials, big and small, are all light blue; No product officials wear yellow clothes. The difference between civil servants and military attaché s is that civil servants have columns and military attaché s have no columns.

In terms of dresses, when Dabao was two years old, he developed corresponding dresses at some particularly important ceremonies, and the shapes of these dresses have been used by later generations. Clothing includes jade crown, long sleeves, crotch, pleats, belts, ribbons, Yu Pei, stacks and poles. The pleats here are similar to skirts, the folds are similar to shoes, and the crotch is similar to skirts, except that the lower part is cut to the knees. According to the grade, the colors of clothes and pleats are deep purple and dark green. Wear two to five items of light purple robes, and the rest are the same as before; Courtiers' costumes include first-class deep purple, second-and third-class light purple, fourth-class deep purple and fifth-class light purple. All the pleats are dark blue yarn, and there is no dress below grade six. Military attache's clothing, wearing five tassels, light red robes, white robes, gold and silver belts; The guards wear shirts, white cloth, white cloth belts, leggings and swords. Four years later, Emperor Shengde appeared again.

Female official clothes, according to the provisions of the "pension order", the inner prince can wear one to four items of formal clothes. The queen wore a dark purple sleeve coat with light green pleats. The long skirt is made of vertical striped fabrics of deep red, deep purple, light purple and green, with printed stripes of deep red and deep purple. The queen has two to five items, her clothes are light purple, and the rest are the same as before. Women are ordered to wear dark purple dresses with light blue pleats; Second-and third-class clothes are dark red, dark green and light purple with edges; Five clothes are light red, and the belt is light green. Royal clothing consists of sleeves, pleats and belts. The inner prince and queen are dressed in deep purple, and their crotch is made of Valerian plants with deep red, light purple and vertical stripes, and their belts are deep red and deep purple. The queen's second to fifth dresses are light purple, and everything else is the same. The second and third products of female officials are deep red, light purple and light green. So do other queens. Female officer four magenta, light purple, dark green; The fifth product is light purple, and the skirt is the same as the second product and the third product; Six clothes are dark green; Seven clothes are light green; Eight products are blue. The new official is light blue, with light green and blue.

On official business, civilians wear yellow clothes, white clothes and leucorrhea, while women wear blue-green. If you use other clothes instead, you must wear red clothes.

Hunting clothes

The inaugural dress first appeared in history as a sportswear for hunting in the wild. Because it is easy to wear and move, the general public also likes to wear it on weekdays. Later, it gradually developed into a dress for the Senate. At the same time, the colors of hunting clothes began to diversify.

In ancient times, the inaugural dress was made of linen, also known as "cloth clothes". With the expansion of the user class, silk materials for officials and bureaucrats began to appear, and names such as "patterned inauguration clothes" and "plain cloth clothes" also appeared. The difference between a swimsuit and a cloth is that a swimsuit is lined. Gradually, the lining developed various beautiful colors with the dress.

The inaugural dress is decorated with "sleeve dew" under the sleeves. According to different ages, it can be divided into thin flat shape (used by young people under 34 and 35), thick and thin shape, left and right twisted shape, cage shape and enamel shape. The style of sleeve dew is distinguished by rank and rank.

The wearing of the inauguration dress and the matching trousers skirt are specific. Finger penetration (or difference). In addition, from Heian to Muramachi era, it is also called "hunting suit", which is a relatively fixed hunting suit collocation. In the sacrificial ceremony, you should wear a light-colored coat (or you can use a robe instead) for your inauguration clothes, and you don't have to wear it at ordinary times. In addition to the forbidden color (the emperor's special color), the colors and patterns of the inaugural clothes are usually free to choose, so in modern times, you can see various patterns and colors of the inaugural clothes.

Originally, it was a daily dress, but with the changes of the times, it gradually became official business and formal dress. The appearance of hunting clothes as samurai clothes in Edo era marked the birth of "vertical class"; At that time, the public also generally wore hunting clothes. However, today, the inauguration clothes have become the common clothes of the clergy in the shrine (in this case, the robes used are the robes of the poor).

Xiao Zhi I

The small straight dress is the product of the simplicity of the neutral inauguration dress and the dignity of the belt.

This simple robe, which has been used since the Kamakura era, is also called "having hunting clothes". As shown in the figure, on the basis of the usual dress, it adds bows and ants to the skirt.

Originally, in order to facilitate the neck rotation, the inaugural dress was designed separately from the front and back. The small straight sweater sews the front and back crotch together, and the upper part of the chest is sewed according to the original calculated shape.

Small straight clothes can only be worn by emperors, princes, ministers and generals, and no one else can use them. But in the Edo era, the emperor also wore a small straight suit. At this time, it has lost its original symbolic meaning.

Now, emperors, shrine worshippers (men only) and members of the royal family can wear small straight clothes. In June and June+February, 65438, when the palace and shrine held royal receptions and imperial tours, the emperor used small straight clothes; Members of the royal family wear it when practicing Shinto. In addition, Izumo clergy also use small straight clothes.

As mentioned earlier, the small straight suit is a special dress worn by superiors, so it has a special sleeve style. The rules of binding sleeves are basically the same as those of hunting clothes, that is, the corresponding styles are used according to age. However, in reality, thin flat sleeves are rarely used, and generally only thick sleeves are used. This is probably because if you are a minister or general, it is not serious to still use thin flat sleeves. Therefore, the only people who really use thin flat sleeves are young princes.

brocade

When Japanese women wear kimonos, they should wrap something on their backs that looks like a baby worn by women in small backpack and southern China. In fact, it is neither small backpack nor a baby. The Japanese call it Dai. Wearing a belt can prevent the kimono from being exhibited, show the beauty of the body, and also play a decorative role, making the gorgeous kimono more colorful.

According to textual research, the systems and meanings of "new" and "Dai" in ancient Japan are different. The etymology of "new" is "sacred dress", and "sacred" stands for sacred. The skirt is a banner cloth, which is today's skirt. Tying a new button not only combines the new button with the human heart, but also combines man with God. If in ancient times, belts focused on decoration, while belts focused on faith, then, in the Nara era, China's women's Tang clothes were introduced to Japan, and women began to wear dresses that were separated from top to bottom. After that, the belt began to be tied in the clothes, which played the role of a belt, not to mention a belt. After the Kamakura era, narrow-sleeved casual clothes (small sleeve) similar to modern kimono became popular, and the buttons were changed from the inside out, which restored the role of the belt and developed into a beautiful belt today.

There are different knots on the back of the Japanese belt, which symbolize different meanings and express my beliefs and prayers. According to statistics, there are 289 kinds of common knots in Japan. The belt, usually 3-4 meters long, needs to be wrapped around the waist for three or four times. What deserves special introduction is a kind of "Nagoya Belt" in the daily department. This kind of bandwidth is 30 cm and 3.6 meters long. It is said that in the Taoshan era, Japanese women used to wear a thin belt around their waist, but they were not promoted because of their ugly image. When Toyotomi Hideyoshi attacked Korea, he was stationed in Nagoya. The geisha who gathered in Nagoya at that time wore a big bun, small sleeve clothes and green and red cylindrical ribbons woven by China craftsmen, which were very gorgeous. This fashionable dress immediately spread like wildfire, and this belt is also called "Nagoya belt".