Traditional printing and dyeing tie-dyeing

There are many kinds of binding techniques, which can be roughly divided into three categories: binding, thread locking and thread clamping, and each category has different changes. In addition, there are three kinds of binding methods and some free binding methods.

Tie-dyeing, also known as twist dyeing, is an ancient tie-dyeing process and one of the traditional manual dyeing techniques in China. According to historical records, as early as the Eastern Jin Dynasty, a large number of twisted fabrics were produced. At that time, the twisted Valeriana products had simple small cluster patterns, such as butterflies, wintersweet and begonia. There are also overall patterns, such as "roe valley" with white dots, "agate valley" with larger dots, and "deer embryo valley" with purple spots, which are shaped like sika deer. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, tie-dyed products were widely used in women's wear. There are records of "purple antagonism" (i.e. coat) and "green skirt" in the Postscript of Seeking God, and "purple antagonism" refers to a coat with "deer embryo antagonism" pattern. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's ancient culture, and twist fabrics were very popular and common. As we can see from the Tang poetry, the popular dress for women at that time was wearing "sapphire" and "flat-headed shoes". In the court, twisted valerian with exquisite patterns was very popular, and "blue valerian clothes" became the basic fashion style in the Tang Dynasty. In the Northern Song Dynasty, Valeriana officinalis products were very popular in the Central Plains and northern regions. In the Yuan Dynasty, the valerian was further developed. Among the twisted valerian, Sichuan-made "Shu Valerian" is the most famous, and there are several kinds such as Tan Valerian and Jin Valerian.

Twinning is a manual dyeing process with simple principle and method. First, the fabric is twisted by sewing and knotting according to a certain method, and then immersed in the dye solution to keep the background color. After dyeing, take out and loosen the rope, and special geometric figures and patterns can appear.

Best suited for dyeing simple dots or stripes. Due to the capillary action of fiber, the fabric presents a special and stepless color halo effect. After the fabric is knotted, the penetration range and different effects of dye liquor can be controlled, thus producing various special patterns and patterns on the fabric. There are generally two ways to bind fabrics, one is to bind fabrics with thread; The other is to wrap materials (such as stones, sand grains, shells, buttons or coins) that do not deform when heated and do not react with dye solution in the fabric. There are more than ten methods, such as binding, binding, stringing, stacking and covering. The binding methods can be sewing, binding and stacking. Such tie-dyed patterns can be natural, vivid, unique, elegant, simple, hazy, changeable, muddy and interesting, resulting in the effect of returning to the original, which can not be described at will by pen and ink, and is a treasure in craft dyed products.

Tie-dyeing, called skein dyeing in ancient times, is a traditional manual printing and dyeing process in China. When tie-dyeing originated is still inconclusive. However, it is speculated that this printing and dyeing process should be carried out before folding. Because the early tie-dyeing prevention process is relatively simple, only needles and threads can be used as tools. Moreover, due to the early appearance of silk fabrics in China and the advanced printing and dyeing technology, the combination of tie-dyeing and silk fabrics can be described as a perfect combination.

Judging from the earliest tie-dyed products in existence, it is the works of the Eastern Jin Dynasty in Xinjiang in 408 AD. In this way, the tie-dyeing process was quite mature as early as the Eastern Jin Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, due to the economic prosperity, the tie-dyeing process really flourished for some time. At that time, the famous patterns were "Xian", "Faint", "Agate" and "Tang Fetal". Colors are red, eggplant purple, dark green and so on. However, even in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, only dignitaries could wear tie-dyed clothes, and ordinary people were still afraid to ask. In the Song Dynasty, in order to curb extravagance, advocate simplicity, revitalize the national movement and stabilize the country, the government once ordered the production and use of tie-dyeing technology to be banned. In the future, with the appearance of endless wars and chaos, the tie-dyeing process will decline day by day. At the same time, Japan, a neighboring country, regarded our tie-dyeing process as a national treasure. Up to now, the Japanese Todaiji Temple still preserves the colorful Valeriana officinalis from the Tang Dynasty in China.

After hundreds of years of process evolution, tie-dyeing process has dozens of anti-dyeing methods, and dyeing has also developed from monochrome to multi-color dip dyeing. Tie-dye patterns have the technological effect of radiating from the center to the periphery, and the vividness of tie-dye patterns is in harmony with the elegance of silk fabrics. Therefore, the ancient printing and dyeing process still has great charm.

There are many ways to prevent tie-dyeing. The simplest thing is to fold the fabric and tie it with a string. After dyeing, take off the string, and a colorful picture will appear on the fabric. In ancient times, small grains of rice were also used to plunge into the fabric and dye small flowers, which may be the printing and dyeing method of "caviar valley". Plant dyes were commonly used in ancient times, also known as plant dyes. Commonly used dyes are safflower, Arnebia euchroma, indigo and so on. From the perspective of printing and dyeing technology in Song Dynasty, tie-dyeing is a common printing and dyeing method in urban workshops, which is widely used.

Phoenix tie-dyeing art has a long history, and its tie-dyed printed fabric is pure and elegant, primitive and simple. It is a fine product among the folk handicrafts of Fenghuang nationality.

The production process of tie-dyed printed fabric is complicated. First, various patterns are projected on the wooden board, carved into templates, and then the cloth is placed between the two templates, and then the special dyeing bath is poured into the blank of the clamped patterns, which is called convex dyeing. Manual dyeing is to press the flower template on a flat cloth surface, then soak it with a special dyeing brush, and uncover the template after it is slightly dry.

Tie-dyed printed fabrics can be designed according to needs and made into wall hangings, screens, quilts, tablecloths, clothes and so on. The finished product is unique, with distinctive national style and strong national charm.