Zhangzhou culture

Zhangzhou is located in the subtropical zone, and the ancient aborigines wore "flower clothes" and wrapped themselves with bark and leaves. After the Jin Dynasty, local residents also put on fabrics such as kudzu vine, hemp and kapok from the Central Plains. Zhangzhou in the Tang Dynasty was a "five-year-old silkworm, and five mountains were out of reach". At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, there were 20,000 pieces of tribute cloth in Zhangzhou, and the textile industry had developed synchronously with the Central Plains, and the clothes of Zhangzhou residents were gradually consistent with the Central Plains. In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the prosperity of overseas trade in Zhangzhou Yuegang led to the "leapfrog customization" of Zhangzhou people's clothing, "people are not expensive *, embroidered clothes" and even "embroidered beads", which were more elegant than officials. In the Qing Dynasty, Zhangzhou's costumes were still luxurious. "Those who boasted too much and fought too hard changed their clothes several times between the last seats on the day when Uncle menstruation paid his wife." Some people spend all their financial resources on clothes, so that there is a proverb in Zhangzhou that they are afraid of falling down (the cesspit) and burning down (the house). This extravagant wind did not gradually converge until the fifties and sixties.

First, clothing.

In the Qing Dynasty, gentry wore robes and mandarin jackets, civilian men wore robes or double-breasted or large-breasted buttons, and manual workers often wore bunts. Women wear a high-necked dress or a short jacket with narrow sleeves, wrapped in corsets, long skirts or trousers. In addition to white (foot-binding cloth), foot-binding women also wear □ (sound shrimp) pants, that is, a cylinder made of white cloth, half a foot high, with a circle of inch-high flowers embroidered at the bottom and the upper part sleeved in the trouser legs. Its purpose is to set off feet and show embroidery skills.

During the Republic of China, men wore robes, mandarin jackets and Bunyo double-breasted jackets, and some also wore suits, work clothes, Chinese tunics or industrial uniforms. Women wear short coats, jackets, cheongsam, long skirts or short skirts with big skirts. Both men and women wear large crotch pants with wide legs and a coarse cloth waist four or five inches wide. Fold it up and fasten it with a belt when you wear it. It used to be called "towel pants". The clothes of coastal fishermen are all dyed with Dioscorea cirrhosa juice or litchi tree juice, which is resistant to seawater immersion and brown, which is different from others.

After the founding of New China, Chinese tunic suit, Lenin suit, youth suit, student suit, work clothes and military uniform became popular in towns. People in rural areas often wear improved Hanfu, including lapels, lapels and chemical buttons. During the Cultural Revolution, grass-green military uniforms were popular in urban and rural areas. Since 1980s, the clothing of urban and rural residents has diversified, including Chinese tunic suit, suit, Hanfu, T-shirt, jeans, jacket, trench coat and sportswear. The styles of men's and women's fashions are changing with each passing day, so trendy people think it is not enough to show their styles without following the Shanghai and Hong Kong fashions.

Traditional baby clothes are called "monk shirts". The front of this kind of clothes is inclined, and the waist is decorated with cloth belts on both sides of the armpit, and the cuffs and hem are not sewn to prevent the baby from wearing delicate skin, which also means that the baby grows fast. The baby's "loose curtain" (sound sam4buā 1) is a sleeveless cotton cloak made of red silk or printed cloth with a rabbit-ear hood. I used to like patting babies on the belly. The navel is made of red cloth and embroidered with ten thousand words with gold thread to protect the baby's navel. "navel" and "wealth" in Zhangzhou dialect are homophonic, and protecting navel means protecting wealth. There is also a kind of "flower handkerchief" made of black and white plaid cloth, which can "ward off evil spirits" for this purpose. People often cover it when carrying babies out.

During the Republic of China, people in Zhangzhou loved to wear fragrant yarn in summer, which was called "fragrant yarn" in Zhangzhou dialect. This kind of cloth is breathable and breathable, which makes it particularly cool to wear. Its color is mostly black, called "oil silk", which will fade to dark brown after wearing for a long time. Xiangyun yarn is expensive, and the poor can't afford it. Therefore, after liberation, Xiangyun gauze clothing often became a symbol of villains on the stage. This kind of cloth is not available in the market now.

In the old society, farmers often wore hemp fiber in rainy days, commonly known as "brown hemp fiber". The whole body is brown and sleeveless, which can cover the chest and back over the shoulders. Having a back longer than the buttocks; A kind of clothes with short back and brown bottom, which can move freely and won't get wet. Since 1970s, it has been gradually replaced by plastic or nylon raincoats.

People shouldn't wear it backwards, because when giving the dead a "pullover" (wearing a shroud), they only wear their clothes backwards on filial piety. When washing clothes, men's clothes must be placed on women's clothes. Don't hang clothes in the open air at night, and don't hang clothes at the end of bamboo poles. After clothes are dried, they must be folded before they can be put on. As the saying goes, they are "folded" before wearing them. In dialect, "Zhe" and "Zhi" are homophonic. People are forbidden to mend the clothes they wear, which is generally believed to make the wearer framed in the future.

Men's wear of She nationality is similar to that of Miao nationality, wearing coarse cloth and still black. She women wear ramie cloth clothes, mostly blue and black. The coat has wide sleeves, the right side is open, the collar, cuffs and chest are inlaid with blue edges, and the clothes and aprons are embroidered with flowers and birds. Wear shorts with wide trouser legs, large crotch and embroidered edges and tie leggings. The waist is tied with a ribbon with flowers, and the ribbon is decorated with various beads. Girls wear colorful clothes at festivals. After 60, their clothes are no different from those of Han people.

In the old days, people in Zhangzhou soaked clothes with soapstone, tea seed cake and plant ash lixivium. A tile bucket for filtering plant ash liquid was specially fired in the tile kiln, which is called "leaky mother pot". When washing white fabrics, clay is used for decontamination. In the 1920s, Zhangzhou residents began to use soap. After 1970s, synthetic washing powder was mostly used.

In the past, rural people often used clothes-beating sticks to beat clothes and wash clothes on stones beside ponds or streams. City residents use washboards to wash clothes. Since 1980s, city residents have used washing machines to wash textiles.

Second, the towel hat

In the Qing Dynasty, official soaps wore national uniform hats, gentry wore "bowl hats" (melon hats), elderly women wore velvet hats (a kind of black flannel hat with small jade blocks on their foreheads) in winter, and babies wore lotus hats and tiger hats. When a woman goes out, the poor who don't take a sedan chair "cover their faces with a cloth", which is the vulgar "Wen Gong School".

During the Republic of China, officials and gentry wore bowl hats, tickets (felt hats), velvet hats, rattan hats and straw hats, but ordinary people mostly didn't wear hats. Some professionals wear hats that match their professional uniforms. Old people and farmers or vendors who work outdoors often wear "monkey hats" in winter (woven into a tube with two holes, tied at the upper end when wearing, usually rolled up to cover only the top of the head, and put down to cover the whole head when it is cold). The daughter went out with a young woman, and her head covered her cheeks. Hakka women wear a small pointed hat and cover their shoulders with a semi-circular handkerchief.

After the founding of New China, bowl hats and tickets quickly disappeared, and the fashionable octagonal hats, military hats and "cadre hats" became popular. Since the reform and opening up, there are many styles of hats on the market, and customers can choose them at will. Moreover, gender, age, industry and season are different, and modern men and women change hats with fashion.

There are mainly three kinds of hats used by urban and rural people in Zhangzhou to keep out the sun and rain. Dai Li: It is made of two bamboo sticks with bamboo leaves between them. It is round with a diameter of 60-70 cm. It is a convenient and sturdy rain gear for urban and rural residents. After 1980s, it has been replaced by raincoats and umbrellas. Answer? Dai Li: Bamboo strips are woven into a Dai Li frame with a layer of bamboo rafts tied to it. There is a gap of two or three inches between the bamboo raft and the hat rack, which has good ventilation performance. The top of the hat in coastal areas is relatively high, with a diameter of about 30 cm; The top of the inland cap is relatively low, with a diameter of about 40 cm. Because of its convenience, portability and large shading area, it has been widely used in rural areas. Hat: A funnel shaped like a cone. It is the favorite umbrella for coastal girls. A big hat, the brim of which rubs your shoulders, can cover most of your face. The material is the same as that of ordinary hats, except that the surface is coated with tung oil, and some of them also use ribbons to tie patterns on the brim and spire, which is suitable for islands with strong sea breeze and strong sunshine to shelter from the sun and rain.

Third, shoes

Qing officials wore soap boots, while gentry wore tweed shoes, satin shoes and cloth shoes. Foot-binding women wear embroidered bow shoes (also known as "board shoes"), and babies wear tiger-headed shoes; Most people walk barefoot all the year round and wear Ma Xie or sandals when walking long distances.

During the Republic of China, the upper class wore leather shoes, while the city people wore sports shoes, Wan Li shoes (rubber soled shoes), high heels, rain boots (rubber shoes), and often went barefoot or wore clogs and sandals (actually Ma Xie). But the shoes of rural residents have not changed much. Even if they can buy a pair of Wan Li shoes, they will be regarded as luxury goods. When they enter the city, they will walk barefoot to put them on. When they leave the city, they will take off their bags and walk home barefoot.

After the founding of New China, self-made cloth shoes were gradually eliminated, and the styles of commercial shoes increased day by day. But until the end of 1960s, most urban and rural residents still walked barefoot in spring, summer and autumn. After the 1970s, people gradually changed to wearing slippers barefoot. After the 1980s, even rural people put on all kinds of shoes.

In the past, Zhangzhou residents would wear clogs after washing their feet at night. Clogs are mostly made of soft sapium sebiferum, neem and maple, with leather, brown braid or waste tires as belts, and female clogs are painted. Clogs are cheap, clean and cool to wear. Until the early 1960 s, in the evening, there was a sound of clogs on Zhangzhou City Street. After 1970s, clogs were replaced by plastic slippers.

Fourth, hairstyle.

In the early years of the Republic of China, after Chen Jiongming cut his pigtails in Zhangzhou, men often cut their hair separately, with a flat head, a flying head or a bald head. The boy shaved his head and left a handful of hair on his forehead. During the Republic of China, girls wore double-angle braids, girls wore single braids and tied their heads with ropes, young women wore long buns or cut their hair, middle-aged and elderly women wore braids (commonly known as "snail temples"), and elderly women wore black foreheads. Flowers should be placed on women's heads in festivals, and smiling buds should be placed on middle-aged and elderly women all year round. Some elderly women put metal wires through pearls and bend them into flowers, butterflies and other shapes. After the founding of New China, girls often wear double braids or cut their hair short. Young and middle-aged women comb their hair and cut it, while older women comb their hair. In the 1960s, middle-aged and young women began to get haircuts as athletes.

She women's hairstyles are very distinctive: unmarried girls wear a braid and a red wool between their hair. Most married women wear their hair in a high bun, and some people comb their hair in snail, rudder, pyramid or truncated hat shape. Old women often tie their hair with blue or black wool.

In the 1920s and 1930s, women in Zhangzhou used special pliers to perm their hair. In the 1950s, I switched to perming. In 1960s, perm was regarded as a "bourgeois lifestyle", which was criticized and almost abolished. In the 1980s, perming was very popular, and chemicals were used to shape hair. Women's hairstyles change with each passing day, striving for novelty and novelty. Perm has become a new industry. In towns, hair salons, beauty salons and hair salons abound. Besides perming, it also designs hairstyles, shampoos and massages for male and female customers.

After 1980s, the hair styles of male and female residents in Zhangzhou changed synchronously with other parts of the country. With the prosperity of economy, barber shops are declining, while hair salons are thriving. The government has strengthened the management of hair salons and cracked down on the unhealthy trend of pornographic services.

In the old days, Zhangzhou residents used tea seed cake to boil water to wash their hair, and women used tea seed oil to wipe their hair. By the 1980s and 1990s, tea seed cakes and tea seed oil had been replaced by various shampoos and hair creams.

V. Shi Pei

In the past, ornaments used by women included hairpins, hair plugs, earrings, bracelets, woven frames, woven collars, rings and necklaces. There are gold, silver, jadeite and agate bracelets, among which jadeite and agate bracelets are also worn by men and the elderly. It is said that they can avoid fracture when they fall. In the old society, women in some places were decorated with gold teeth, usually embedded in the upper canine teeth.

After the 1950s, gold and silver jewelry was basically abolished. Since 1980s, women have worn gold earrings, gold rings, gold necklaces and gold bracelets, and some men also wear gold rings and gold necklaces to show their wealth.

Traditional children's ornaments are mostly silverware: small bells, bagua palms and Maitreya Buddha adorned with hats, fairy locks and gourd locks worn around the neck, and small silver rings or bells worn on hands and ankles. Now this kind of ornaments are mostly replaced by various styles of plastic and fluff ornaments.

Girls used to wear earrings when they were eight or nine years old, and most of them were made on the first frost day. On that day, the girl sat by the well, and her mother worshipped the well god with tomatoes; Then put the tea seed oil on the girl's earlobe and knead it constantly. When she is numb, she will pierce the earlobe with a needle, leave the red thread in the earlobe, and then throw the needle into the well. After the wound is healed in a few days, you can wear earrings. Some boys with bad birthdays also get their ears pierced because their babies die early in succession or their horoscope is not good. It is said that men and women are "good at inviting and eating" (easy to cultivate people) and have less disasters. From 1950s to 1970s, this custom was abolished. After 1980s, this custom revived.