Trace the history of Zhang Rong.

Zhang Rong, as a traditional craft of the Han nationality, was developed on the basis of the famous "four-sided scissors" in the Yuan Dynasty. It was mass-produced in the Ming Dynasty and exported to Japan, Portugal, the Netherlands, Singapore and other places, especially by the Japanese. Zhang Rong gradually developed from "weaving" to "opening" and "cutting". And it's getting better and better.

At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, weavers in Zhang Rong were distributed in the area outside the East Gate of Zhangzhou, and there were merchants who set up shop for Bao Yong. In the middle of Qing Dynasty, Zhang Rong was used as a tribute by emperors, literati and local gentry. Products include robes, court clothes, mandarin jackets, lintels, tablecloths and so on. Zhang Rong paid tribute to Zhangzhou during Xianfeng period of Qing Dynasty, and he is very famous all over the country. At that time, "it was ordered to use blue satin, Zhang Rong and other ear clothes as beautiful ornaments", "Feather satin, piling up a piece of Zhang Rong, cost three yuan, requiring one hundred grades (that is, one or two), and regarded cloth and silk as dirt. When the robe is woven, the price is more than several times, and people compete for it. " At that time, Zeng Da was a good weaver. After Zhang Rong was introduced into Nanjing in Ming Dynasty, it developed into a unique carved velvet in Nanjing through technological innovation.

During the Taiping Rebellion, famous artists and craftsmen in Zhang Rong avoided the Jiangsu-Zhejiang Rebellion. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the government was corrupt, Zhangzhou mulberry forest was cut down for land reclamation, silk raw materials were increasingly scarce, old artists died one after another, and Zhang Rong gradually declined. Only two velvet weavers, Lai Zi and Ceng He, participated. 1929 (Republic of China 18), Zhangzhou established a work-study school, resumed the production of Zhang Rong, and hired a famous artist, Professor Wang Ming, to teach knitting technology, but his ambition was not realized and Wang Ming died. In the Republic of China 18 (1929), Zhangzhou work-study school hired a 70-year-old artist to knit Zhang Rong. However, after the loom was installed, the old artist died suddenly before he could spread his skills, and Zhang Rong's ancient works disappeared in Zhangzhou.

After the "five-port trade", a large number of imported silk products poured in, and Zhang Rong was too expensive to compete with it. During the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, an old artist from Zhangzhou moved to Nanjing, where he taught the skills of knitting velvet. Nanjing, Hangzhou and other places have developed because of the arrival of artists from Zhang Rong.

In the early days of War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, Gao Kaikou, Wang Xiwen, Wang Yucheng and others organized 10 people to teach art behind Zhangzhou Garden in order to resume production. However, the quality and style are worse than in the past, and the sales volume and cost have been impacted by the products of Hangzhou and Nanjing, and the production was stopped only three months.

According to the investigation of 1952, there are no more than 10 artists in Zhang Rong (including Buwei and Liu in Longxi), all of whom are over 60 years old, and it is difficult to resume production because of the loss of tools. Later, the relevant departments sent two cadres from Zhangzhou Silk and Yarn Factory to visit counties in Longxi area and learned that there are still people who can knit cashmere in Nanjing. From 65438 to 0958, Zhangzhou Silk and Yarn Factory sent people to Nanjing, Hangzhou and Suzhou for professional training, and Nanjing sent machines to Zhangzhou. So the "velvet" of Zhangzhou regained its vitality. 196 1 in March, Dong inscribed "Gentleman's Shoes-Comrade's Road is the Road to Guide China's Revolution" by a silk mill, with a length of170cm and a width of 70cm. It has a light tan bottom and a black suede, which has not been seen since. Later, due to funds and other reasons, production was stopped. After the "Cultural Revolution" began, Zhangzhou Satin was regarded as the product of "sealing, investment and repair" and stopped production in the fourth quarter of 1966; 1967, the production of artificial cashmere also stopped, which made this 300-year-old traditional craft of the Han nationality come to an end frequently. 1979 10 In order to rescue endangered Zhang Rong production and meet domestic and international demand, Suzhou Zhang Rong Silk Weaving Factory was established at Dongmei Lane 12 with the strong support of Suzhou Municipal Committee of Democratic National Construction Association, Municipal Federation of Industry and Commerce, Municipal Silk Industry Company and Canglang District Government. As of 2009, only one street factory in Zhangzhou produced Zhang Rong. In 2008, the knitting skills of cashmere and velvet declared by Danyang Chunming Zhang Rong Factory have been listed as the intangible cultural heritage of Jiangsu Province. Yin Zhicong, director of Nanjing Hantang Brocade Research Institute, and Dai Chunming, director of Danyang Chunming Zhang Rong Factory, became the representative inheritors of velvet weaving skills.